europapete

Second shout out for Alexi Dormanoff's rope machines. I have a couple and they work great 👍 Really good people to deal with too. Regards, Pete in RI

Welcome Wieslaw! Regards, Pete in RI

Welcome Victor! Regards, Pete in RI

Neat idea Michael, thank you. Looks like a nice build, Is that the Heller Royal Sun?

Hmmm.....good advise, thank you. I will probably cut slightly below the waterline, not on it, in order to make a seascape. Also I had better return this thread to Dan and open my own when I do get started. Sorry Dan, didn't mean to intrude. Regards, Pete in RI

I am thinking/leaning towards a waterline display, and feel I can best replicate the limited area of copper bottom exposed with paint rather than copper tape. However, suggestions and ideas are welcome.

Good evening Dan and all. So, here I am perusing an open Victory box full of Heller and Dafi goodies. Looking at the hull halves, I know the anchor chock/rest/chin has to go and a new one positioned elsewhere, the rigols have to go, the top wale needs widening, the woodgrain has to go, the two bow ports on each side need opening, the stern 3rd row door needs opening, the lines on the stern piece need adjusting, the "pins" on the top f'castle need rebuilding. The hull halves need thickening at the level of the decks. So, as I hold the two hull halves here, what else do I need to do to them?  The big Q is do I add the Admirals entrance for Trafalger or not?  Regards, Pete in RI

That's a great photo. Really gives us scale to these things. 

Or I could pull the Victory box off the shelf............

If you can, I would recommend assembling first and sanding the seams, then painting. Push a length of wire or cocktail stick into the muzzle for painting. stick the other end into some modelling clay or polystyrene to hold while it dries. If you paint first while on the sprue, all your guns will have seam lines. Regards, Pete in RI

Can't argue with that. I need to switch subjects after a while too, helps stave off burnout which is never a good thing in this hobby. Am thinking of switching from a 1/32 SE5a (WW1 fighter biplane) back to my 1/200 HMS Hood. 

How far off is the kit hull? I haven't checked it yet against plans.

Kk I will. While you are doing that think about how much you would like to sell the uprade kits for to the rest of us unskilled slobs. 

Yep Kevin, the men in the white coats are getting their van ready. I gave them a false address but you had still better be quick about doing that hull. 

would it be possible to enlargen by different amounts on the vertical and horizontal planes to allow for shrinkage of the different dimentions involved? (Says Pete who knows absolutely nothing about 3D printing). 

Well done Kevin, looking awesome. Much nicer and more detailed than the kit, Regards, Pete in RI

Nice update Dan, thank you

lol, yuup. info overload = no modelling done. (ask me how I know)  Regards Pete in RI

Ah, but surely the NMM can help you out there. So, we do not accept that as an excuse. Also there is the AOTS book.

I'll get my coat. 

Don't give him ideas Ian, he's daft enough already!

This is looking awesome Kevin, well done. Who knew that a simple idea for an improvement would lead this all this?  You must have been hanging out with Dafi too much! Regards, Pete in RI

Good to hear you are all Ok and no damage done.  That's awful about the castle, hope it will be repaired. 

Hi Dan, sorry to hear about all the flooding, hope you and yours are safe and ok.  Regards, Pete in RI

Awesome! Thanks Dan.

Good morninig everyone. On the subject of ropes, take a look at the Dormanoff rope walk. A nice bit of kit that works great.  I have been experimenting with the Uni-thread 8/0 that Dan suggests in his log, ( amongst other sizes) and it makes really nice fine rope. 

Thanks again to Dan for producing all the parts you do, and for posting such a wonderfully detailed and enjoyable log of your build. Regards, Pete in RI