Unegawahya
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Everything posted by Unegawahya
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I finally got my whale boat davits completed. I also decided to get the block and tackles for the for and aft installed so the standing rigging won’t be in my way later. Next up is going to be the permanent display base. The main part is reclaimed oak. I’m going to have keel blocks made from reclaimed teak from the USS Iowa. I’m also going to have similar hull supports as my work base and they will either be made from teak or iron wood.
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Your fighting top looks great! I was getting caught up! You got me thinking of the problem of bending the tight forward corners of the edging and I was wondering if using a similar method to what I recently used on the rudder for my DR1 would work? I made a jig for the rudder that was set up with a zip tie to hold the wood with just enough compression till it dried. I was extremely happy with that result.This is my jig.
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I have all of my whale boat davits mostly done and my first one has been test fitted.I had to omit the upper bracket and the connections and make new brackets to account for the lower bulwarks. I’m happy with the first one, I just hope the next three will all look the same.
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All of my port and starboard lids are now finally done and installed.Next up will by my stanchions for the 28’ whale boats followed by my new permanent base. I also had to take the time to fix all of my old land and get them to where they weren’t rolled up. I was finding that with my plans rolled up, I was avoiding pulling them out unless I had to. I now have them ironed out and clipped to a backing board to keep them flat and clean
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To be honest, I haven’t even started shaping my rudder yet. It’s been one of those “I’ll leave it for before I start the rigging things!” I will be posting more here soon and I apologize for the extreme delay.
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My starboard gun port lids are done and as soon as they’re dry I should be able to start installing them.To simulate glass being in the portholes on the upper lids I used Testors Clear Parts Cement. I’ve gotten to the point that I love this cement because it dries completely clear and you can even use it to make small windows. It also can be easily removed from some plastic with a toothpick if you get a little messy!
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Thank you! I really appreciate that! I puzzled over those frames for a wile. I’m really glad you like them. They should also be easy to reproduce because they’re made from standard K&S brass.
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After a long absence, it’s finally time to convert my desk back into a shipyard! I got my Avro 504 completed. I want this one to like one of the original airframes, so I based it on the beautiful example that’s displayed at the London Museum. I got the remodel on the dining room complete!I got my scratch build of the Comet SuperStar P-51D complete. I modified this one to be my take on the pylon racer Voodoo. I call it Ghost Cat!Last, I just finished my scratch built 1/35 scale Fokker DR1. I designed this one after the early paint scheme of Manfred von Richthofen’s DR1 152/17. IMG_1931.mov I’m really hoping to get a chance tonight to figure out where I left off!
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USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
Unegawahya replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Great looking hammock stanchions! That exactly why I made mine the way I’d did! They wouldn’t have looked half as nice as yours. Did you use a jug to make your stanchions? -
USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
Unegawahya replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Thank you! Scoring the brass before hand must be what I was missing. -
USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
Unegawahya replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
If you don’t mind me asking, how are you cutting your brass into strips. I’m going to need more and I can’t seem to find anyone that sells them. Your build is looking wonderful! -
Speaking of the DRI, I just drafted one in 1/35 scale!I’m yet undecided if I’ll be building this one directly after my Avro or if I’ll be starting my gun port lids.
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Now that all of my hammock netting is done, I’ll be taking a break for a little while. I’m going to build at least my Avro 504K that I drafted almost a year ago.
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That’s great news! I’m excited to see your work and solutions for what’s coming up!
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That is correct! I’ve had great success this way.
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I’m sorry. I forgot to say that the hemostats were being held closed by the spring clips on the soldering stand.
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I found that I needed to hold my hemostats with my soldering stand to be able to tie on my hooks to my blocks. I also ended up making all of my own hooks for the blocks.
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I’m also using tulle. I got the finest one I could find at Walmart. The only unfortunate thing is that it’s silver and I have to paint it once it’s in place. I’ve also been playing with it to get it to be a little squarer before I start stitching it in.
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My first set of custom hammock stanchions on the port side are done! It did seem to take me a wile to get the design set up and the materials together to photo etch the stanchions. But I really think it was definitely worth it! Now I just need to get started on the starboard side.
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Your guns are looking great! Do you know if your going to rig them?
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I used the etching photo resist masking from Model Expo that sets with UV light and I etched the brass with a 2-1 mixture of hydrogen peroxide and muriatic acid. This was my second attempt. I didn’t get the photo resist applied correctly on the other side and it started peeling off.
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I needed midship hammock stanchions for my 2015 build and after three etching attempts, I think I finally did it! I designed the template on my computer from the Navy plans and finally got some good results. I do need to clean up the rope holes but I’m really pleased with the final result!
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I also got the port side anchor attached yesterday!Here’s a close up of my anchor ring with the rope wrap.
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That is a threader that I got from our fly fishing store. When I wrap anything with a sting or rope I’ll add the threader. Then when I’m done I’ll stick the tail in the end of the threader and pull it through!
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I’m waiting on some supplies to photo etch my midship hammock stanchions. So in the meanwhile I’ve been working on my anchors. For a change, I’ve used the kit supplied parts for the anchor and the stock. The bands on the stock are .010 x .040 Polystyrene strips. The ring is a brass rod that I formed into shape.Looking at a lot of pictures, it looks like they would wrap the ring on two sides to keep the chain and shaft separate.Using my forceps and soldering holder to hold everything I got all three wrapped and painted.I ultimately decided to have the starboard stowed with the chain attached and the port anchor will be hanging from the cathead.Another thing I found that is extremely useful, is using 50/50 Easy Dope with water to help give a look of weight. When I first had the rope from the top of the anchor to the cathead, the rope wanted to stay in more of a loop. After I had everything tied off I used a brush to put some Easy Dope to the rope. Then I placed a pair of pliers on top to hold the top of the anchor down. Once the dope was dry, the rope stayed exactly where I wanted it!
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