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Unegawahya

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Everything posted by Unegawahya

  1. Speaking of the DRI, I just drafted one in 1/35 scale!I’m yet undecided if I’ll be building this one directly after my Avro or if I’ll be starting my gun port lids.
  2. Now that all of my hammock netting is done, I’ll be taking a break for a little while. I’m going to build at least my Avro 504K that I drafted almost a year ago.
  3. That’s great news! I’m excited to see your work and solutions for what’s coming up!
  4. I’m sorry. I forgot to say that the hemostats were being held closed by the spring clips on the soldering stand.
  5. I found that I needed to hold my hemostats with my soldering stand to be able to tie on my hooks to my blocks. I also ended up making all of my own hooks for the blocks.
  6. If I remember correctly, I used the 2.5mm boxwood blocks from Drydock Models. I can’t wait to see yours installed!
  7. I’m also using tulle. I got the finest one I could find at Walmart. The only unfortunate thing is that it’s silver and I have to paint it once it’s in place. I’ve also been playing with it to get it to be a little squarer before I start stitching it in.
  8. My first set of custom hammock stanchions on the port side are done! It did seem to take me a wile to get the design set up and the materials together to photo etch the stanchions. But I really think it was definitely worth it! Now I just need to get started on the starboard side.
  9. I used the etching photo resist masking from Model Expo that sets with UV light and I etched the brass with a 2-1 mixture of hydrogen peroxide and muriatic acid. This was my second attempt. I didn’t get the photo resist applied correctly on the other side and it started peeling off.
  10. I needed midship hammock stanchions for my 2015 build and after three etching attempts, I think I finally did it! I designed the template on my computer from the Navy plans and finally got some good results. I do need to clean up the rope holes but I’m really pleased with the final result!
  11. I also got the port side anchor attached yesterday!Here’s a close up of my anchor ring with the rope wrap.
  12. That is a threader that I got from our fly fishing store. When I wrap anything with a sting or rope I’ll add the threader. Then when I’m done I’ll stick the tail in the end of the threader and pull it through!
  13. I’m waiting on some supplies to photo etch my midship hammock stanchions. So in the meanwhile I’ve been working on my anchors. For a change, I’ve used the kit supplied parts for the anchor and the stock. The bands on the stock are .010 x .040 Polystyrene strips. The ring is a brass rod that I formed into shape.Looking at a lot of pictures, it looks like they would wrap the ring on two sides to keep the chain and shaft separate.Using my forceps and soldering holder to hold everything I got all three wrapped and painted.I ultimately decided to have the starboard stowed with the chain attached and the port anchor will be hanging from the cathead.Another thing I found that is extremely useful, is using 50/50 Easy Dope with water to help give a look of weight. When I first had the rope from the top of the anchor to the cathead, the rope wanted to stay in more of a loop. After I had everything tied off I used a brush to put some Easy Dope to the rope. Then I placed a pair of pliers on top to hold the top of the anchor down. Once the dope was dry, the rope stayed exactly where I wanted it!
  14. That is really unfortunate! Is there a way you could remove just enough of the mating surface to give your glue a good fighting chance?
  15. For the sake of not taking up too much more space on Mtbediz,s page I’ll post this to my page! From what I’ve been able to find from the Constitution’s FB page, it looks like the fore tack boomkins were removed sometime before 2011 and still not present today.I also ford a link on the Constitution Museum’s website from Nelson’s Navy describing the use of the fore tack boomkins in the era she was built. Link to the article above! From: Nelson's Navy: The Ships, Men and Organisation, 1793-1815 - Brian Lavery! So it leaves me with the decision of do I leave them off because they weren’t there in 2015 or do I just go ahead and put them on? Because if I want to do the full rigging I’ll need them!
  16. I found a picture in “Anatomy of the Ship The 44-Gun Frigate USS Constitution”.It looks like if you’re not going to include sails the bow boomkin is not required. Interestingly, the stern boomkins look to still be in place.
  17. I’ve seen a picture that had the Bumpkins rigged, but I’m not seeing it at the moment. I’m also wondering if they were removed because they weren’t historically accurate to 1812 or not? I can see where they would be helpful when backing with the wind to keep control and move the for mast main sale.
  18. For such a fiddly struggle as the head is, yours is looking great! Just keep in mind, the artist is always the harshest critic of his own work.
  19. My port sea steps are done! The starboard side will be much faster because I made them at the same time!
  20. My fist two gangway boars are installed and I’ve mapped out where my sea steps are going to be located.After doing some research, it seems that when the bulwarks on the waste where removed it looks like the placement of the sea stairs where changed and one was removed. I’m borrowing mtbediz’s method for making the sea stairs and made a jig for the top 7 for each side. My first one is done. Now I have 19 more to make.
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