Unegawahya

I had a little more time yesterday to finish my starboard bow and start some of my small details. I got the handrails done for my skylight. For the skylight handrail I made the ring with 1/32 brass wire that I coiled around a 13mm socket. (I think I should have used a 12mm because the ring was just a hair too big.) The legs for the skylight are the same 1/32 brass wire and I drilled small holes in my spar deck using the handrail ring as a guide. After getting everything lined up I glued the handrail to the supports.

After years of looking at my Connie’s bow and saying I need to finish that and thinking I’ll do it later, I finally got the port side done! After finally finishing the painting! A long time ago showing what I had left.

I worked slowly with an extremely sharp #11 razor blade. I have an extreme tendency to sharpen my razor blades or at least hone them to as sharp as I can get them. I worked in small sections from the inside out and if a peace chipped or split I was careful to keep all of the parts in the order they belonged. I did have some splits that I then had to peace back together. Just keep in mind to stay inside the laser cut and work in small sections. The other way that I didn’t think of till I had mine cut out would be to gently sand the back to make it as thin as possible. Then the cutting would possibly be easier. I didn’t try this way and I don’t know if it’ll work!

I’m going to have to chime in too! I also agree with leaving the beautiful stain job you did! I couldn’t do that because my build has too many spots where the stain wouldn’t take! I like the look of just wood enough that I put a wooden steering wheel in my pickup!

I completely understand! Mine is 5 years in the making!

Here we go! My process for making my Companion-way Canopy frames. All brass is from K&S Precision Metals #8149 SQ. BRASS TUBE 1/16x.014 for all of the side rail connection points. #8160 BRASS ROD .032 for vertical supports and center shaft of the finial & hub. #8159 BRASS ROD .020 for the side rails. #8125 RND BRASS TUBE 1/16x.014 for inside of the finial, hub, ball, and the ball above the square connectors #???? RND BRASS TUBE 3/32 for the outside of the finial, hub, and ball. I started by making a jig to drill the 4 corner holes for my hub in the 3/32 tube. Once the holes where drilled I added the 1/16 tube to the out side of the hub.By adding the 1/16 brass tube to the inside of my hub it got the inside diameter down to about 1/32.I then glued about 2” of the 1/16 brass tube inside the 3/32 to give me a good length to use on my 8” drill press with files to make the finial and ball for the tops of my frames. The finial hub and ball is held together with a peace of 1/32 brass wire. With the stanchions I started with the corner ones that will be glued into the holes made previously in the hub. The stanchions are the 1/32 brass wire bent to shape using the plans. Each stanchions has a ball that sits directly above the top square connection that I made from the 1/16 brass tube using my drill press again. Each stanchions has two square connections for the crossbars that I used the 1/16 square tube for. The connections where left loose to make the addition of the crossbars after all the stanchions where installed. I drilled a 1/64 or .5mm hole for each side where there would be a crossbar and one extra hole for the eye for the hand rope that has been in my way for what seems like forever. I also marked the stanchions for the level of the top of the hatchway.Once I had all for stanchions made the the connection points on. I stuck them into my predrilled holes in the hatchways and trimmed them to fit the holes in the hub. Wile I was installing the hub with the finial attached I tied a string to the finial so when I eventually dropped inside, I wouldn’t lose it. The 4 center stanchions are made the same as the corners. They are just glued to the side of the hub.After all the stanchions where installed, I marked my needle tweezers for the height of the connection blocks and started adding the crossbars from the bottom to top. The crossbars where made from the .020 brass wire. Once I had each crossbar in place I would check the height and then glue the connections. Then I would move to the next crossbar and turn the next lose connection to hold the crossbar.Once all of the crossbars where in place and glued I made the eyes for the top of the hand ropes with the .020 brass wire using my jewelry pliers. When the glue was fully cured I was able to tie the hand ropes on and set the knot with glue to prevent it from unraveling. The hand rope was installed when I put the ladder in before I planked the spar deck.

Yes the finial and the spoke hub are about 4 pieces. I need to sit down and make a post on the method I used. I’m hoping I may have time today to get it done!

After a lot of other distractions and work I’ve finally gotten my companion way canopy frames done!

I also had this beautiful 3D printed stanchions recently shared to my page. That may be another way!

You are correct. The inside diameter is about 1/32”. I was using 1/32” brass wire for the vertical supports for for my stanchions and the horizontals I used #8159 .020 (.51mm). I’m sorry I didn’t keep the containers previously, I know that would help a lot.

🤦‍♂️ I apologize for that. Your right. Here is the link for ace hardware. If you have a one where you live they may have them in stock. https://www.acehardware.com/departments/hardware/metal-sheets-and-rods/brass-tubes/5172622 I also looked and I don’t think the inside of mine have a round hole. I’m thinking it’s just the way I’ve been cleaning the cut edge.

Sorry for the delay in responding! I’ve driven about 1100 miles in the last two days at work. I found the 1/16” brass square tubes on the Hobby Lobby website! They also have then online at Ace Hardware. https://www.hobbylobby.com/crafts-hobbies/hobbies-collecting/tools-blades/brass-tubes/p/bt74474

I’ve bought all of my brass from True Value and our local hobby store Hobby Hut. It should be the same manufacturer as the brass you ordered.

This was my tool set for drilling all of the squares for my stanchions and my hand payed the price. Also, all of my square joiners were hollow. Because they were hollow it made it easier to drill the holes then cut that section off of the rest. I apologize if I wasn’t clear about that earlier.

I finally got all of the connecting joints done on my USS Constitution Campanion-way Canopy Frames! I just have all of the cross bars to now put in.

Yes you are correct. If the bit is not tempered correctly it’ll bend. I’ve been using a bit that I broke and I sharpened for drilling the square parts. My Dremel is a variable speed one and the slowest speed was too fast. If you have an electric drill that the small drill bit will fit, I feel that would be better.

I’ve been thinking about using my Dremel, I gave it a try and I think that may be part of your problem with drilling the brass. The Dremel has a high rotation speed and is heating up the bit and brass too much and dulling your bit. It did seem to me that using my Dremel was harder than using my had drill to drill the brass. I also have to sharpen my bit after a few holes. I’ve always found going slow when drilling metal works the best for keeping the bits sharp and getting through the metal.

I was having the same problem! I ended up using a knife sharpener honing stone to sharpen one of my broken bits. It’s been working better for me now. I also made a jig to drill the four holes in the 3/32 brass tubes.

I’m taking a lot more pictures for the other two companion ways and I’m hoping to make a better post showing all of my progresses. tonight I will hopefully have time to get back to work! I also don’t have a lathe. I used the good old finger lathe to make the finial. All the parts that I used are all brass stock that I got from TrueValue. I did use my 8” drill press with my needle files this time to make the finials.

I finally got my first of three companionway canvas framing done! I just need to make two more.😳

I’ve now finally gotten my spar deck guns rigged! It seemed to take forever but I only have a couple hours a day to work. I also got my galley stack cleaned up and modified to look closer to the 2015 stack.

If you are wanting an excellent visual resources you can go to the Google 360 tour from 2015. I’ve been using this ever since I started my gun deck! https://maps.app.goo.gl/NskVHXQRjakqPvuTA?g_st=im

It’s really nice to be back working on my Constitution! I’ve gotten all the spar deck guns mounted and the recoils are done I’ve gotten one of the carronades rigged with one set of tackles each side.I’ve decided to tie off the ropes to the tackle like the USS Constitution seems to keep them. Or at least that’s the way it looks on the 2015 360 virtual tour.

Finally! I’m back to working on my Constitution! I’m working on all of the recoil ropes for my spar deck guns and then I will be setting up all of the block and tackles for all the guns.Im also going to have to loosen everything up a little once I have them all tied off.

I apologize for the delay! The glass I used was .005 Clear-lay film from Grafix. 4649400a.pdf I scaled the US Navy plans to the Constitution as best as possible. Once I had the open frames I used a pin to trace the openings onto the film. Once I had the window openings I used Testors canopy glue to assemble the windows and mullions. Onec everything was in place I used as little CA glue as possible on the window joints. Just be really careful because the CA glue can cause the film to fog up! Once everything was good and dry I was able to carefully curve each window with a lot of irritation to fit the quarter galleries frames. If I remember, I used a curved surface and a lot of pressure from my thumbs.