Supplies of the Ship Modeler's Handbook are running out. Get your copy NOW before they are gone! Click on photo to order.
×
acaron41120
-
Posts
247 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by acaron41120
-
I have started the NGR Half Hull Planking Tutorial and I now know where I was going wrong and misunderstood a lot from reading the books. If one waned to learn to plank a hull like they originally did I highly recommend this tutorial. It's money well spent. And even an old geezer like myself can understand it. -
Thanks Gregory for the education. Not quite ready to scratch build yet but slowly moving in that direction.
-
When reading the instructions in the planking tutorial the components are the stem, stemson, keel, keelson, deadwood and stern post. But the Keel is one peace which makes me wonder if the actual shipwrights keel was one piece. I don't think so but that's how most kits are manufactured. (I don't know about scratch builders keels.) So were the actual ships built with a multi piece/section Keel or a single piece keel. Just wanting to learn more about this great hobby.
-
Kit was made by Billing Boats. and has been discontinued years ago.
-
Mark. I have read all the tutorials and one other that have all helped but none actually tell someone where to start the first plank. So I started searching through my other books and in one I actually found the answer. And I am happy to post here in the off chance someone else is having the same problem. From the book Ship Modeling Simplified, by Frank Mastini, page 36 “you must start the planking about one-half plank width below the deckline.”
-
I am building a 1:50 scale Golden Hind kit. I want to plank the hull using the method shipbuilders of that time used. But I am confused as to where to start the upper plank. I have found that if I start the plank level with the deck, the plank will have to be forced into place (as in bent) to keep it level with the deck. However, all literature on the subject of planking states do not force the plank into position, rather let it take its natural flow. I thought a bit and realized no matter where I start, some planks will be full size at the forward end and have to be shaved to a point (which is wrong) at the rear end. Will starting the first plank along the frames where the plank stays level the entire length, bow to stern be best? Or am I overthinking it? I appreciate any suggestions.
-
16th century British merchant.
-
On the subject of the ship’s bell, was it normally located just aft of the main mast on the upper deck?
-
Thanks for the replies. I now have several sources from you members to purchase silkspan. I’ll more than likely go with Brodak. Also I’m lookin forward to the Zoom session with NRG this Saturday morning.
-
I also want to make sails for my ships but cannot find a source for silkspan. Who do you folks use to purchase silkspan?
-
Great videos Chuck and planking techniques is great as well. As many modelers have a dislike for the garboard strake, a short video would greatly enhance the steps in the planking techniques. I know in y case I'd rather rig hundreds of masts than take an 8mm x 1.5mm x 550mm plank nd make it a garboard.
-
Thanks everyone. I will continue on using the method I have been using as it turns out it was the correct method. I usually sand and fill using the sawdust from sanding with a mixture of the sawdust and glue which works much better than sanding down the commercial fillers that just don't seam to sand down enough. Before painting, I use a tack cloth and then add one light coat of sealer and follow up with the color of choice for my particular ship. For Mayflower, and the Golden Hind I will stain the hull with a quality stain and then paint from the waterline down flat white. Again thanks everyone for your help.
-
Quick question on using sanding sealer. I have used it many times on ships whose hulls are painted with great success. But I'm unsure if I should use sanding sealer if I am staining the wood. I'm afraid that if I used sanding sealer then stained the wood, the stain would NOT soak into the wood s it should. Am I correct in my thinking?
-
My neighbor lost part of his pecan tree. The only thing left was a 4 ft piece of the trunk which was in good condition. He cut that down and ground the stump. He knew I build wood model boats and asked if I wanted it. I said sure and have it in the back by my fence drying out. Now for my question. Is pecan a good wood to use in making a model boat? I have the plans of the Bluenose and I would like to try my first scratch build of the ship using pecan. What say ye master builders?
-
Did the ships cannons on the starboard side line up directly across from the cannons on the port side? Also were the cannons set the same on a frigate/man-o-war located the same as say the Mayflower or Santa Maria etc.? Were they located that way from country to country or did it depend on which country built the ship? I've checked several model plans and Google and come up with everything lined up across from each other. Wanting to add some authenticity to my kit. Thanks for your help.
-
Gun Port Hatches
acaron41120 replied to acaron41120's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
druxey. Thank you sir. I never even thought of a rebate in the port frames but that does make sense. I see now how that would keep the port lids from swinging into the ship during inclement weather allowing the sea into the ship. -
Question on the hatches for the gun ports on a 16th century ship. Well all ships I guess. Did the hatches that covered the gun ports fit flush inside the port opening or did they overlap the opening a bit? Couldn’t find anything specific in any material I have. Thanks in advance for our assistance.
-
Tool for Gratings
acaron41120 replied to acaron41120's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I can't locate his grating kits in the syren website. Even tried searching for grating kits. -
Just wondering if there is a tool maker that makes a tool similar to a punch that would cut the square holes in the gratings contained in kits. I don't want to create a new way of doing things but it would be nice to take the grating in the kits and be able to punch out the holes in the gratings rather than using a pin vise and swiss file to square the round hole. Thanks.
-
Thanks Henry. So if I understand it correctly, the anchor cable ran from the cable tier, around the capstan and then through the hawse hole to the anchor. Great info. Thanks again.
-
I understand how the ship’s anchor rope is tied off at the anchor but not back at the capstan. Was it tied off near the base of the capstan and then wrapped around and out through the hawse hole to the anchor or was it tied off to a separate eye? Just getting ready to add a few finishing touches prior to installing the top deck. I guess the question of the rope tie off applies to all the capstans. Thanks for you excellent help.
-
Showing my ignorance with using planes here but if I understand correctly, I start with a square piece of wood stock that's almost the correct size of the mast; ie. 8mm round; then cut down the square piece to the correct size and then finger plane it until close to round and finish by sanding it round. What about starting with a square piece, cut it down do the correct size for the top of the mast and from there insert it in my drill and use the drill like a lathe and sand it round using my sanding stick? I think I'd feel better doing that. Would that work?
-
What is the best method of cutting the top portion of a mast square? I do all my building using hand tools and I've managed it but it was very difficult. I have used single edge razors and Exacto knives followed by sanding. What do you experienced builders do? Thanks in advance.
-
Recommended pins for planking?
acaron41120 replied to Capella's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Agree. I have 3 sets of those. Helps to predrill the hole in the bulkhead just smaller than the nail. Jim...I have the same building jig. Works fabulous. I guess when someone comes to your workshop they enter "Mister Roger's neighborhood!" -
Sails set when leaving port
acaron41120 replied to acaron41120's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Thanks for the help. I think I'll set the lanteen sail on the mizzen mast and the top sails on the main and fore masts and have the rest of the sails furlled.
Our Emblem ®
