acaron41120
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Everything posted by acaron41120
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I purchased a Billing Boats Dragen that I knew didn't have the fitting kit included. I usually see fitting kits on eBay for billing boats but can't find any. So I'm wanting to buy just the fitting kit for Billing Boats "Dragen." If anyone has one laying about they would like to rid themselves of, please let PM me and we'll see about working and agreeable sale. OR...if anyone knows of a place that sells them also please let me know. Thanks all. -
Thanks for all the excellent responses. I ended up ordering 1x5x500mm walnut strips (pack of 25) from Model Expo.
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Larry. I did some searching and found the web site for my building slip. Here you go: www.hobbyworld-usa.com/Store/index.php?id_product=2074&controller=product
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Larry. Back in the mid 70's while stationed in England, I lived in Felixstowe. A friend of mine was building the "Norske Love" by Billing Boats and I told him I was interested in trying that and he took me to the store where he purchased his kit and I stuck with Billing Boats. As for the building jig, I got it from Hobby Zone of England while doing a search for ship building jigs. I believe their web sit is hobbyzone.com.
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Greg Any idea of what Tanganica wood is and the color of it. How easy is it to work? Any one else? I've never heard of it.
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Finally got the garboard strake to fit. The kit planks are 1.8mm x 6 m x 550 mm. I used one 1.8mm x 10 m x 550 mm strip for the garboard strake starting on the port side. Need to sand the bottom of the strake just a tad in the middle and she'll fit in nicely. I used the method described in Donald Dressel's book "Planking Techniques for Model Ship Builders". It seemed, to me at least, to be the most straight forward method. After trimming, I soaked the strake in warm water for two hours before the test fit. Glenn. I typically bevel the bottom edge of any plank up to the wale.
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Tomorrow I intend to order the planks for my second layer of planking. I just don't know what thickness to order. In the first layer of planking the planks are 1.8 mm (thick) x 6 mm (wide) x 550 mm (long). When I ask on-line the response is always the width of the plank. I want to know how THICK the plank should be. The range seems endless. And the only hobby store is Hobby Lobby which is why I always have to order. I'm building the Mayflower by Billing Boats and just want to have the second player of planks on hand when I start the second layer of planking. I'm thinking the thickness should be about 0.5 mm thick. I thank you for your help in advance.
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I've read and re-read the planking article "Lining Off Your Hull for Planking on the MSW site but am having a heck of a hard time getting the Garboard Strake to fit without a small space between the keel/stem post and the bottom edge of the strake. No matter how hard I work at it with the cardboard and the strake I always seem to have that space. What am I missing? Any suggestions on how to handle this will be greatly appreciated.
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Deck or Hull
acaron41120 replied to acaron41120's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thanks for all your comments. The main reason I asked is because like most of us I plank the hull before planking the deck. But in my Mayflower kit the plans, photos and instructions show planking the decks first. First time I have ever seen it done that way and was just wondering if it made things easier or not. Phil, I like the way you did your waterways and margin planks. I'm going to have to give that a try. -
When planking is it best to plank the decks or the hull first? Just wondering.
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Ratline Making Tools
acaron41120 replied to acaron41120's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thanks for the replies. I was wondering if it made it easier than the traced card and line that I've always used. I guess I'll stick to my older wats. Sometimes the old ways are better. -
I have a catalogue from Micro-Mark. They have a lot of nice hand tools for model ship building. I have a couple of them. But I have never used (I've thought about it though) any of their ratline making tools. Has anyone tried one?
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The thickness of my planks are 1.8mm per the assembly sheet but I figure them as 2mm. I'm going to stick with the 8mm wide Wale and use the 5mm planks for the rest of the hull. I understand that in practice the Wale was actually thicker than the rest of the hull planks bur my kit instructions don't mention any thicker planks. In my signature block I list the ships I have built. But for this build and going forward, I'm going to try and do the planking the correct way. Thank you everyone for your comments and advice.
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I've read the planking tutorials on the site and they are great. So...in marking off for my planking, I'm wondering if I can use a slightly wider plank for the Wale. My kit has 5mm wide planks for the hull. I'm using an 10mm wide plank for the Garboard and if I use the 5mm planks for the rest of the hull I end up with needing to shave one of the planks down to 3mm. Using the 8mm plank for the Wale makes it work out without shaving any planks. Just need to verify that its okay to do this or will it lead to more difficulties.
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Dan and Bolin. Thanks for your replies. I know about adding filler blocks but haven't tried it yet. It does seem as if there is less cutting with filler blocks than separate frames and trying to position them correctly. As the false decks are in place to supply some form of support for the sanding effort, I can remove the false decks and fit the filler blocks more easily. Great food for thought.
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Faring the Frames
acaron41120 replied to acaron41120's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Jaager. Thanks for your information. Perhaps the best way to say it is just call it faring. In any event my intent was to let those even more novice than I to not be discouraged if "faring" takes more effort than they anticipated. -
One of the things I do when I assemble kits is to trace the bulkheads and frames on a graph paper in case something drastic happens. So far so good but reading some of the NRG and MSW articles along with the model building books, is that more frames are better. So...with that in mind, and because I have the pattern for the frames, I'm thinking of adding another frame between frames 3 through 10 (numbered from front to back). These frames will only go from false keel to main deck and not be seen. Still have to ponder this idea and I like the idea of having frames spaced closer together but it is it really necessary?
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Just wanted to post this for anyone new to the model ship building hobby. I'm Building my Mayflower by Billing Boats and I spent 2 hours yesterday faring frames on the port side of the hull. I still have a little more work to do at the stern before I start faring the starboard side. For those just starting ship model building this step may seem boring and although a lengthy process, it is very necessary. Remember it is always better to sand a little at a time and check the faring a ton as you go. This step will give you a great fit of your hull planks without ridges and valleys. More to come soon with photos in my build log.
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Continuing on with the build log. This is my build stand with frames 1 through 8 installed. The build stand really helps getting this aligned. This took two days to accomplish as it takes me about an hour to dry fit and get the frames installed. I only have 4 hours every other day to work on her due to my volunteer work and other duties. Frames 9 through 13 and the mast step are installed. Frames 14 and 15 (at the aft) will take some extra work. Typical of some kits, not all the pre-drawn parts are quite right. There are some side pieces for frames 13, 14 and 15 that I'll have to make from pieces of scrap from the left over wood sheets that I saved. The originals were a little too short. Frames 14 and 15 installed and the side pieces for frames 13, 14 and 15 were cut and dry fitted and then glued in place. Then I dry fit the false decks. This took some time as I had to file the false deck notches to fit the frames. But got it done. I'll leave the false decks in place to assist with the faring the frames; then my plan is to install the wale on each side before progressing on with the planking.
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I've printed out the tutorials. I'm sure a full reading and examination of them will help me a lot. Thanks for the reminder.
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I'm about ready to attach the first hull plank at main deck level. On my model the main deck curves up slightly at the bow. Should I sand the deck beams slightly to make the deck lay flat and follow the deck line with the plank? I understand that the next plank down from the first plank should be straight. Am I misunderstanding something? Any help appreciated.
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Just got my carving blanks in the mail today. Thanks Chuck.
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Dan. Thanks for the encouragement. Although both Dans have a different Mayflower kit than mine, by comparing the progress of our ships via the build logs, it can help with various building techniques and perhaps add details to our ships.
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Thanks Roger. I'll check out the National Research Journals in the NRG office.
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Building the Mayflower by Billing Boats. Neither kit 801 (which I have) or the newer one have much plans detail and very little furnishings on the deck (water pump, windlass ect.). It also doesn't have nor show where the Capstan is located or if it has one. Would any of you builders of the Mayflower from other kits have one? Does anyone know if it had one or where it was located? I'm guessing the forward part of the main deck. Thanks for any assistance.
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