acaron41120

I've heard of and used the pencil method on both my later period ship models. But only on the deck planks. Never heard any mention of simulating caulk on the hull planks before. Interesting idea and I guess on the real ships of those times some sort of caulking method was used. But I've never have read anything about it. I too would like to see a photo of a model ship with hull caulking.

Thanks to all who replied. And thanks to this site I found yet another book on planking. Well...more of a pamphlet than a book as its only 16 pages with illustrations. The title is "Planking Model Ships" A step by step procedure for beginning and advanced modelers written by Richard Mansir. Looks to be a series of workbooks by Moonraker as it is workbook number 1. I'll have to check out Moonraker to see if there are more of their books on line.

Posting this update for new builders to show how important a template can be when building their ship. These photos show the port side half of the main deck. The first is the deck showing where to mark the cutouts for the bulwarks. The second is my fitted template with the cutouts where they belong. The third shows the deck with the template showing how much the marked deck can be.

I've seen this section and really haven't figured this out. It sounds interesting but just what is the purpose and idea behind a group project? It really sin't explained.

PJ. Here is the link to my build log.

Welcome PJ. Je suis Allen Caron from Warner Robins, GA. You have come to a great site and as said before please do a model blog. I am building the Santa Maria by Billing Boats. It will be great comparing your ship and mine as we do our builds.

Welcome! If you need assistance this is the place to get it.

Artesania Latina has a 1:50 San Francisco Cross-section on eBay for a little over $100. Most others I've seen come from China and I'm not certain to their accuracy.

Not sure if this is the correct title but there are kits out there of, oh say, the HMS Bounty, where the kit is just the section of the ship at midship and when complete it is displayed on a wall shelf etc. I know its a personal preference/liking but I'd like to know what the builder of these thought and were they satisfied with them. Allen

Well had the build going and while checking for everything being square I found that the stern (Bulkhead in this kit) was improperly installed by myself. So today I carefully removed the bulkhead 5 and 6 and made the necessary corrections and dry fit it to recheck. So far so good. What follows is the misalignment and repair photos. I believe that I was paying more attention to the placement of the opening for the tiller than the plans. Lesson learned. This is how the stern lined up. I don't know how to edit the photo but the notches on the top of the bulkhead should line up with the notched second deck. The plank shows where the top of the bulkhead should fit. This meant I had to remove the stern bulkhead and associated lumber. This is how it looked after the stern bulkhead was removed. Still had some cleanup to do but I didn't have to fabricate two new pieces. Everything came off nicely. Just a final cleanup then I'll do my first dry fit. This is the stern post after the bulkhead removal. A little more cleanup and then start reassembly. This is a dry fit to make certain that all lines up as it should. Final dry fit. Now I have to plug the opening for the tiller and move it where it should be.

For really tight spots to get into, I use a syringe. I ordered some when I had to give my little daschund "Mitsy" insulin shots and have quite a few left over since she passed. I don't use the needles, just the syringe and that gets the tip into some really tight, hard to reach areas.

I have read a number of model ship build books that mention the ship's wale and where it goes but...what is the purpose of the wale?

Chris. Is there a way to include his book here on this site? Or maybe the NRG? That would also be a great additional reference.

Because you were an apprentice builder under his wing, did that move you to start this group? No offense meant to whoever started MSW?

Chris. That must have been cool being tutored by him. You're a lucky guy. Thunder, that's the book I referred to a lot when building my other ship kits. I continue reading it especially now with building a blunt-nosed hull. I'm still having trouble understanding how to determine the number of planks needed on the hull and how to decide how many battens to use. I have never used that approach. I always started planking from the deck down and then from the deck up. But I'll figure it out and ask questions here.

I have read and reread an excellent book for model ship builders. Thought I'd pass this on for those who have never read it. The book is entitled "Planking Techniques for Model Ship Builders" and is written by Donald Dressel. This book covers all types of ship model building from Plank-on-Frame, Plank-on-Bulkhead and Scratch builds. Allen

Bob. Sorry for the length. I started the Billing Boats kits in 1977. The kits I built were (in order of build): Marie Jeane Bluenose Bluenose II Oseberg Roar Ege Santa Maria (just started) Until I found this site I was okay with Billing Boats. I selected them for two reasons the primary was because my first build was while stationed in England and that was the only boats the store in the city carried. The second reason was their rating system for builders (beginner, advanced beginner, intermediate and expert). I have stayed with them because of familiarity. But somewhere between 1980 and now they have made a number of changes. The biggest was their rating system. The Bluenose is a good example. It went from a 1 star (advanced beginner) to a 2 star (intermediate) and their was no change to the boat that I can see. The quality of their kits was okay to me but that was because they were the only kit builder I knew. Since then I have found that their instructions are lacking in places and the plan views are lacking as well. As for wood quality they use a lot of mahogany strips for planking and now have switched to a less brittle wood. Abichi (I think). Since the internet came I have purchased all my kits from eBay. Same Billing Boats kits but found in estate sales and were less expensive than Billing Boats USA where I would have had to order them from. Over all, I think if you took the best parts from all the kits Billing, Maunta, Artenesia, etc.) you'd end up with a pretty fantastic kit. But even more expensive! Allen

Thanks Chris. So now I have to decide if I want to do a single planked or double planked hull. All the other billing boats I've made were single planked so I guess I'll continue that way. If I don't like the looks, then I'll buy some extra planks and do a double plank.

I have read several places including here that some kit manufacturers include enough planking in their kits to double plank a hull. I have built five kits and all were from Billing Boats. In no kit has there been enough to double plank a hull. If the instructions sheet with the inventory said 50 hull planks I'd get 55 or 56. Which kits have enough planks to double plank a hull?

Jagger. I don't have mush for tools other than the usual swiss files, Exacto cutters, chisels, fret saw, French curve, small clamps and sanding blocks. The only power tool I have for modeling besides a cordless drill is a Dremel tool. My other tools are for fixing aircraft and VWs. I can add the blocks if necessary and shape them by hand. It'll take some time but hey...I'm retired and I have plenty of time. Just have to wait for the local stores to reopen to get some wood stock. Telvine. Below is a photo of the hull with bulkheads installed. The space between the five midship bulkheads is 1-1/2 inch. The space between the front three is 1-11/16 inch and the rear three is 1-3/8 inch.

I'll get a photo and post it later today or tomorrow. Have some yard repair to handle after three severe storms in 10 days. Toni and Bosman. I have heard of adding filler between the bulkheads at the bow and stern but never between the other bulkheads. I think the filler route would be easier than guessing at the size of the added bulkhead and cutting it at the correct angle. Seems like a lot of extra work whereas adding a filler block would be easier to sand to the correct shape. What type of wood would you suggest for the filler?

I am building a Billing Boats Santa Maria kit and they split the color of the hull into two sections. From the waterline down they call the hull to be painted tan and from the waterline up they say clear poly. Just adding some info from another kit.

Has anyone tried using silk span for sails? It works well with wood model airplanes and would seem easier to work with if having the sails furled on a wood model ship.

I have installed all the bulkheads on my keel. After a day of building I like to take a look at my work to enjoy and reflect on my progress. Today I noticed that there is about 1-1/2 inch between the bulkheads. More between some amidship. I have read about how spacing between bulkhead can affect the ship's hull and although I have never done this it did make me consider adding a bulkhead between the existing ones. Has anyone done this? If so, what are the problems I am likely to run into in doing this? Your comments will go a long way in helping me decide to do this or not. Thanks. Allen