Jump to content
NRG Photographic Model Ship Competition - All eligible to enter - Reduced memberhsip fee - JULY 31 ENTRY DEADLINE ×

acaron41120

NRG Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    247

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by acaron41120

  1. acaron41120
    Jaager. Thanks for your information. Perhaps the best way to say it is just call it faring. In any event my intent was to let those even more novice than I to not be discouraged if "faring" takes more effort than they anticipated.
  2. acaron41120
    One of the things I do when I assemble kits is to trace the bulkheads and frames on a graph paper in case something drastic happens. So far so good but reading some of the NRG and MSW articles along with the model building books, is that more frames are better. So...with that in mind, and because I have the pattern for the frames, I'm thinking of adding another frame between frames 3 through 10 (numbered from front to back). These frames will only go from false keel to main deck and not be seen. Still have to ponder this idea and I like the idea of having frames spaced closer together but it is it really necessary?
  3. acaron41120
    Just wanted to post this for anyone new to the model ship building hobby. I'm Building my Mayflower by Billing Boats and I spent 2 hours yesterday faring frames on the port side of the hull. I still have a little more work to do at the stern before I start faring the starboard side. For those just starting ship model building this step may seem boring and although a lengthy process, it is very necessary. Remember it is always better to sand a little at a time and check the faring a ton as you go. This step will give you a great fit of your hull planks without ridges and valleys. More to come soon with photos in my build log.
  4. acaron41120
    Continuing on with the build log. This is my build stand with frames 1 through 8 installed. The build stand really helps getting this aligned. This took two days to accomplish as it takes me about an hour to dry fit and get the frames installed. I only have 4 hours every other day to work on her due to my volunteer work and other duties. Frames 9 through 13 and the mast step are installed. Frames 14 and 15 (at the aft) will take some extra work. Typical of some kits, not all the pre-drawn parts are quite right. There are some side pieces for frames 13, 14 and 15 that I'll have to make from pieces of scrap from the left over wood sheets that I saved. The originals were a little too short. Frames 14 and 15 installed and the side pieces for frames 13, 14 and 15 were cut and dry fitted and then glued in place. Then I dry fit the false decks. This took some time as I had to file the false deck notches to fit the frames. But got it done. I'll leave the false decks in place to assist with the faring the frames; then my plan is to install the wale on each side before progressing on with the planking.
  5. acaron41120
    I've printed out the tutorials. I'm sure a full reading and examination of them will help me a lot. Thanks for the reminder.
  6. acaron41120
    I'm about ready to attach the first hull plank at main deck level. On my model the main deck curves up slightly at the bow. Should I sand the deck beams slightly to make the deck lay flat and follow the deck line with the plank? I understand that the next plank down from the first plank should be straight. Am I misunderstanding something? Any help appreciated.
  7. acaron41120
    Just got my carving blanks in the mail today. Thanks Chuck.
  8. acaron41120
    Dan. Thanks for the encouragement. Although both Dans have a different Mayflower kit than mine, by comparing the progress of our ships via the build logs, it can help with various building techniques and perhaps add details to our ships.
  9. acaron41120
    Thanks Roger. I'll check out the National Research Journals in the NRG office.
  10. acaron41120
    Building the Mayflower by Billing Boats. Neither kit 801 (which I have) or the newer one have much plans detail and very little furnishings on the deck (water pump, windlass ect.). It also doesn't have nor show where the Capstan is located or if it has one. Would any of you builders of the Mayflower from other kits have one? Does anyone know if it had one or where it was located? I'm guessing the forward part of the main deck. Thanks for any assistance.
  11. acaron41120
    Bruce. Thanks for the references. I'll check them out tomorrow. I spoke with a friend of mine who knows I'd rather read and turn pages than check on line but still told me to look it up on line. So I did and found an article entitled "A Meal Onboard Ship in the 16th Century." It seems to be a good answer. There are probably many more.
  12. acaron41120
    I have read a number of books about historical ships like the Santa Maria, Half Moon, Golden Hind, Mayflower etc. I've never read anything about cooking aboard ships of the 1600s and onward. As an example; the Mayflower had many settlers aboard. Did these settlers cook their meals aboard ship or did they eat "hardtack" and cold meals? If they cooked meals aboard ship, what was used to cook them and where were they located aboard ship?
  13. acaron41120
    Thanks Chuck. Just ordered mine from the link you posted. It's a great way to learn to carve and will help me carve the flower on the stern of my Mayflower build.
  14. acaron41120
    Chuck. Just read your Carving build log. Is the carving group still active. If so how is one able to get the carving banks you mentioned? I went to the NRG store but couldn't locate them.
  15. acaron41120
    Stepped away from building to assemble the Professional Building Slip from Hobby Zone of England. The slip is a tad bit longer than I need at the moment but looks as if its going to work fine. This is the keel assembly installed in the slip. Frames and Bulkheads. Going slow on this part. Now it's back to cutting the frames/bulkheads from the wood sheet. There are a total of 15 and I'm about to start cutting from frame 9. Takes about 1-1/2 hour of very careful cutting per frame as I'm cutting them from the wood sheet using Exacto three different knives. I'm going to have to get a mini saw for my next ship. Any recommendations for a mini table band or jig saw are welcome.
  16. acaron41120
    Magnificent job Glenn. I look forward to following your Robert E Lee build. 👍
  17. acaron41120
    James. Thanks for the clarification. Its working fine for me. Interesting thing, all the modelers in Georgia are like all the members of my MGTD replica club. All about 1-1/2 to 2 hours away. Oh! For the record I miss living in Felixstowe. Lived there for 3 years in the late 70's.
  18. acaron41120
    Osmosis. Are the two organizers MDF or wood? They appear to be wood.
  19. acaron41120
    I just finished building my HobbyZone Building Slip yesterday. I found the plans lacking as for instructions. I too like the idea of shortening the slip as its way to large and heavy. Shortening it will work for my Mayflower and Golden Hind builds.
  20. acaron41120
    Tried to Zoom out but it seems to not work. Is there another location of the map besides the one in this post?
  21. acaron41120
    How do you get the map to the US, Canada or Austrailia, etc.?
  22. acaron41120
    Started my new build, the Mayflower by Billing Boats. I will try to follow a better format with this build log. Below are the first photos of my build. In the bottom, photo, are items #2 and #3 bulkheads or a frames? They appear to be frames while #1 is a bulkhead. Am I missing something???
  23. acaron41120
    You're an inspiration!
  24. acaron41120
    Excellent work. Keep it up. What are the dimensions of this model?
  25. acaron41120
    I have planked many hulls and have always started from the main deck and downward four rows. Then the garboard up for four rows and then the middle. On my model of the Mayflower, the plans show planking from the main deck upwards. The excellent build completed by Sherry (of MSW) was planked the same way. I plan on following that method for my build. I'm just wondering why it was done in that manner? My theory is it is to protect from snapping off the tops of the frames.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...