JKC27

Thank you......... I have really been starting to think that making hollow decks could be wasting time on my builds. You are correct though - styrene does a really good job representing steel. I have been experimenting with running micro LED lights to the p & s lights and top of the masts, etc. and it looks really nice with one positioned inside the bridge, but I am sure I could make the lighting work either way if I do more builds with the LEDs. re: your comments on scale - for me, I don't care about wall thickness at scale vs real world, nobody would ever care or even notice, it's just finding the right material especially for the top deck where there are essentially windows surrounding that deck of course.

The scale I use is 1/192 or 1/200, and these are ships that are generally 740ft or slightly shorter in the real word, so parts tend to get quite small. Even the windows. My first build I tried using vinyl that was cut into small squares, but again......it is hard to replicate the sizes and make everything looks "square". I've yet to find a punch set with the correct size/shape as well, or I'd consider using that.

As the ships I model are the large ships that service the Great Lakes, these are all steel construction. No big deal on the hull - it's a wood model of a steel ship, so that's not an issue. When it comes to building the various decks (most are now all at the rear of the ship, while some older ships have both fore and aft) I have used card stock with pretty good success, but prefer using styrene sheets cut to the proper sizes to build the walls of each deck, then stack them together accordingly. My frustration with using either material is cutting out the windows.... I've been using a #11 exacto, but even with drawing out the proper lines, etc. it can be a real test of patience to cut the windows out and have all the edges like right. Card stock gets a little flimsy pretty quick, styrene I find can bend inwards a bit, but you can also make the cut too large with both mediums. I've been using .020 styrene. I know the thicker you go, that harder it would be to cut, but there might be a better way for me to perfect this part of my skill set....... Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated! See attached pics to see what the cream of the crop looks like..... this is what I strive for, as I only have been at this for about 5 years now, and it's only when I have time after work, or on weekends when I have time between other things in life like errands, housework, spending time with my wife, etc..... First 2 pics are in the museum in Toledo, OH - the next couple are some of my recent builds - both were card stock. Last one, my current build is styrene.

I use any of the different wood fillers in a tube mostly that are available. I find LePage's in a tube works good, as does the Elmer's version. One product I have conflicting thoughts on is the bigger tub where the wood filler has a more sandy texture and I find for filling any gaps in my models it just doesn't work as good. To add: For any styrene parts that I am doing (which is most of my various decks, as I build modern ships), filling in any gaps, I use the Tamiya putty that comes in a small tube - it has a strong odour, and hardens nice, but I am not sure how it would work with wood at all. It is designed to be used with plastic.

Love the handrails....... I find 1:200 are just way to small and fragile. I build at 1/192 or 1/200 for the lake freighters and am always looking for good handrail options, as these big ships have handrails down the length of the entire ship pretty much, and a 730 ft ship, even at 1/192 has A LOT of railings to deal with, plus those around the various decks. Using the 1:200 are almost a waste of time/money for me as they crush so easily, and are so thin. How fragile are these 1:150? I have been using the HO scale (1/87) PE from Bluejacket and they are pretty good - very rigid, easy to ship, and they work well despite being a little large.

The one local hobby shop here in Windsor still has them on the shelf, but not getting any more obviously. The owner told me that he received no direction on what to do.

Did all Canadian retailers have to return all the Tamiya spray cans after Dec 31? I meant to stop by my local hobby shop, but never had the chance. I don't use the spray cans, but would have scooped some up if they were clearing them out.

Hoping someone on here might be able to help me. I have a part for my current build that I was able to obtain from someone for Blender. I haven't got the foggiest idea how to use it, and was hoping someone would be willing to modify it for me so it matches what I need. I have a guy locally here who can do the printing, but need to modify a few things on the structure of this before it is printed. I have the file I can provide as well as reference photos for what I need. Thanks in advance!

As I build in 1/192 or 1/200 (if metric plans) I know the my fittings, etc. are going to be small for the most part. My builds are great lakes freighters - generally a 740ft ship, so the model is quite large at just under 4ft in length. I have been able to use fittings (winches, radars, etc.) that are close enough to the real deal as there no companies that make fittings for great lakes ships as it's such a niche market (I assume). Where I am running into problems is the handrails.......most of the spar deck is just a cambered stretch with hatches and hundreds of feet of handrail...the 1/200 scale PE brass handrails I have tried to used twice are just way too fine to work with. For the spar deck handrails I am just using HO scale PE brass ones which look just fine. The problem is there are handrails around every deck of course on the real ship, but the HO ones are just way big for these sections. The 1/200 again.....just way to fragile to use. I have found alternatives, but I would like to figure out the proper way to use the 1/200 ones. For those who have used these, you surely know what I am talking about. I got them cleaned, primed, painted - no problem. But to cut them off the sheet they come on and try to bend them around the appropriate corners - they just deform way to easily.....it's almost like using fine brass thread...they are so small. What I have been using is ABS 1/200 fencing. Height is OK, and they look is not bad, but it's difficult, if not impossible, to bend if there is a curve to the area where the handrails should be. Any suggestions?????

@poleprince I feel your frustration. I build great lakes freighters, and as you said the deck features (winches, hatches, etc.) are different than those you find on military ships (which are quite readily available) so I am forced to scratch build, buy similar fittings (Bluejacket Shipcrafters is where I get a lot of my fittings), or resort to 3D printing. There are some things out there on sites like CGTrader, and I think you can find people who will do custom work for you. I recently had my bridge deck 3D printed by a local company here in Windsor, Ontario and it worked out really good. As for photo etch parts...good luck there really isn't anything out there that aren't military, as you said, it's such a niche market (merchant ships). I have used the stairs from Tom's Modelworks that has a variety of different scale PE that you might find useful. FWIW I build in 1/16" - 1ft scale (1/192) or 1:200 - as those are what the plans that I have acquired are all in or are easily to scale to (some are 1/8" - 1ft). Keeping in mind..the ships I am modeling are mostly 730 ft long or close to that.

I'll have to make my way up to Kingston one of these days.....probably a good 6 hour drive for me. I actually enjoy the model showing the towing of this boat - I was able catch some good pictures of the actual tow on the Detroit River on it's way to Kingston last summer.

I've heard, but not sure if true, that sometimes they'd have pizzas ordered from Windsor and delivery by the Westcott - we are pretty well known for having amazing pizza! I missed that they were having this celebration - would be an easy trip across the border - probably spend more time crossing the bridge or tunnel and waiting in line at customs than actual travel time.

Interesting history of this mail/supply boat. Should be noted, they do not operate in the winter season (January - March). Also....the man interviewed in this story (Sam Buchanan) is an amazing great lakes model builder - many of his builds reside in different great lakes museums. https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/windsor/westcott-150-years-1.7230731

Hello, and welcome fellow canuck!

Thought this may be of some interest to many on here: https://boatnerd.com/boatnerd-news-may-16-2024/