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Bill97

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About Bill97

  • Birthday 08/15/1952

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Louisville, KY
  • Interests
    Model Ship building, furniture building, photography, and travel.

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  1. Good morning Marc. What I was referring to is this paragraph in your post above: I’m working on deck furniture. A considerable amount of time was spent, as always, on de-plasticizing the appearance of these parts; flash removal, in-filling of injection mould marks,softening of sharp edges, and general detailing. From that I was thinking maybe you 3D printed all new parts instead of working on the kit supplied parts. So with that thought in mind I just wondered how you set up the 3D printer. Understand all the life trials you are dealing with right now my friend. I battle the old high cholesterol as well (my doctor finally put me on a statin). I had to smile when I read about your paint issue. Just today I needed to use a bit of black enamel. I have a number of those little bottles of different colors. It had been a while and the lid was very much stuck. I thought my crescent wrench will fit around this square little bottle perfectly and then I can turn the lid with my pliers. BAD IDEA!! The lid did not turn. However the bottle did and broke right in the middle dispensing black enamel in places I wish it had not. Fortunately none got on my model.
  2. Oh Daniel I thought you were 3D printing all new pieces not modifying what came with the kit. I know very little about 3D printmaking but am thinking you have to program the printer to make the piece you want, either an already made program or design your own. Is that correct?
  3. Marc as long as you keep working at it we will continue to check in. Are you needing to come up with the CAD for the pieces or can you find CAD software already available? Hope my question makes since.
  4. Alright Daniel. So my quest begins. I ordered the new wheels. Going with 4. Thanks again Bill
  5. Yes Ian you are correct on the heat shrink tubing. I am using that product extensively on my newer soldered connections. Before I was fully knowledgeable of it I had a number of connections already soldered. For those I found a liquid rubber product I can just paint on a soldered connection. When it dries it forms a rubber coating to protect. Many many soldered LEDs to go in 4 separate circuits. Thanks Kevin. It did in fact take a bunch of plank cutting. The electric lighting really is not extremely difficult. Once you learn the basics and if you have a great tutor like I had in Daniel.
  6. Yes Ian I am. I am tackling the OcCre Amerigo Vespucci with some artistic privileges venturing outside the box. I am also doing an extensive lighting plan I hope works out. Here is the link if you want ant to take a peek. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/38262-amerigo-vespucci-by-bill97-occre-1-100/ Bill
  7. Looking great Ian. Had to do a little searching to find what you were into now. This is battle cruiser is a new direction do you.
  8. Hey JeffT, you helped me before and I always appreciate it. Next time there is an update to the index would you include my OcCre Amerigo Vespucci build? Thanks in advance for all you do. Bill https://modelshipworld.com/topic/38262-amerigo-vespucci-by-bill97-occre-1-100/
  9. Beautiful job Daniel on the bowsprit netting. More for me to try to use as reference. Daniel I am working on the helm and referring to your work here as well. As you are aware the OcCre instructions are very limited as to what to do with the inside, even if I just wanted to follow the basic instructions. As you mentioned the included wheels are kind of sad and I know I will need to do something differently there. The instructions don’t even show how to mount them if I were to have wanted. But were there any parts included in the kit you did use to make parts B and C in the photo? Or did you purchase and or fabricate the entire mechanism?
  10. Been a bit since my last update. Have been working on the issue I described above. I noticed I was not getting a uniform level of light from the port holes on the deck structures if I had the LED bulbs mounted vertical. I am also using 5mm lights. I have 8 holes in the fire control room including port holes and holes at the top of doors. So I really wanted to mount a LED at each hole. It is a bit of a snug area. The wiring for the outside down lights is also I closed in here. After a number of iterations I finally got what I wanted. I am using 5mm warm white lights for the interior of the deck structures and will use this same LED for the port holes on the two decks. The deck lights are 3mm white bulbs.
  11. Daniel I made an interesting discovery. LED lights are brighter viewed from the top rather than the side. I researched this a little and found it is definitely true. This will add a degree of complexity to my lighting plan if I want uniform brightness. My plan for the side portholes is to mount the LEDs horizontally close to where the port hole will be. This will give maximum brightness through the port hole. However for the deck structure interior lights, that will be on the same circuit(s) using diodes, my plan was to mount them vertical in the deck inside the structures. This plan results in dimmer light shining through the windows and portholes compared to what eventually will shine through the hull portholes. So if I want uniform brightness I will need to mount them horizontal as well
  12. Daniel I made an interesting discovery. LED lights are brighter viewed from the top rather than the side. I researched this a little and found it is definitely true. This will add a degree of complexity to my lighting plan if I want uniform brightness. My plan for the side portholes is to mount the LEDs horizontally close to where the port hole will be. This will give maximum brightness through the port hole. However for the deck structure interior lights, that will be on the same circuit(s) using diodes, my plan was to mount them vertical in the deck inside the structures. This plan results in dimmer light shining through the windows and portholes compared to what eventually will shine through the hull portholes. So if I want uniform brightness I will need to mount them horizontal as well.
  13. Daniel I spend a lot of time perusing your build to get inspiration and ideas. I am curious, maybe fascinated, by this floor. What did you do to make it? Looks so similar to the original on the ship.
  14. Finished the planking of the three deck sections. Many will call me crazy for doing it but as you can see I did a herringbone pattern using 3mm x 6mm planks laid in opposite direction on the port and starboard sides. I also laid contrasting walnut planks down the center and outlining the edge of the decks. This is obviously not authentic but I want to venture outside the box on this build. The fore and aft deck sections are dry fitted at this point. A little more work to do below deck before I put them permanently in place. After I glue them in place I will add a coat of black paint followed by an additional coat of white paint to the underside. This will hopefully prevent light bleed through the thin deck from the LED below deck lighting I have planned.
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