ScottRC

12/30/15 – 1/8/16 – Holidays are over, back to work.  Progress slows but here is the latest result.
 







 
 
I have completed planking the upper hull on both sides.  I had to re-do two planks on the bow area but now it looks pretty good. 
 


 
Sanded the results and trimmed away around the gun ports. 
 


 
On to the next step, the stern.

12/26 – 12/29/15 - With some trepidation I started practicing the art of using an electric planking bender.  I use a piece of 1.5” PVC pipe with a cap on one end to make a soaking tube for the planking stock.  Once the wood is soaked I practiced curving and twisting a plank.  It actually went smoother than I expected.  As with everything, practice helps.
 
 
Prior to soaking I am darkening one side of each plank with pencil lead to simulate caulking and sanding a taper on the other side to allow planks to fit together better over the curve of the hull.  Seems to work fairly well (so far).
 
 
I started with the plank just below the lower framing board under the gun ports.  As of today I have seven planks bonded on each side going up.  Lots of clamps, and the occasional having to release and re-bond an area when a gap occurred.  Fairly even side to side, but not perfectly identical.  Will have to cut back around the gun ports in some areas.  Really wish the provided planking stock was a bit more uniform.  Keeping fingers crossed as I go.
 

12/13 - 12/19 – Sanding the upper bulkhead extensions takes a long time and a lot of patience.  Occasionally I loosen one of the gun port framing pieces and have to re-bond it and wait. 
 


 
I have the tops of the frames thinned to about 1/8” (3.1mm) and they are about 5/32” (3.9mm) at the bottom by the deck.  That is still a bit thick based on the dimensions from Takakjian’s 1/24 drawings of the cannon and gun ports which, when allowing for plank thickness of 1/16” (1.6mm) ea inside and out, suggest a target thickness of 5/64” (2mm) at the top and 1/8” (3.2mm) at the bottom.  I do not feel comfortable going any farther until I get a layer of planking on the outside. Even then I might leave things as they are.
 
I used wood filler to smooth out the transition from frame #1 to the bow filler pieces which were not perfectly shaped, then sanded the area to make it uniformly contoured.  I also painted the gun port frames red.
 


 
I tried to make the laser cut gratings match up to the drawings and felt very frustrated.  Finally decided to piece together the correct size gratings from the provided ones.  Looking at the drawings in Takakjian just made things worse because she shows a finer grid (more holes per unit length) and different relative dimensions than the kit drawings.  To use the majority of the kit supplied parts I will stick with the laser cut grid pattern and fit together what I need.
 





 
More later.

Nice job on the framing, especially considering the unscaled drawings. If you are not masting and rigging, the port framing should present no future problems. If you are, then you may want to now consider the position of the channels and deadeyes, to avoid positioning of the ports that will interfere with the rigging. The problems with the drawings and my lack of foresight caused me to have issues down the road.
 
In answer to your questions:
1) The profile and deck drawings didn't match up  and the AOTS drawings didn't match either of them. My memory is that I used the masts as the fixed points and then kind of fudged the spacing of the hatches to fit, taking into account the position of the bulkheads and the fact that I was using the kit gratings. I also had to take into account the position of the lower deck hatches that had been done previously. Neither very scientific, nor accurate, but it seemed to work out well.
2) I do my plank bending by soaking in boiling water. I have a very old electric plank bender that I use most of the time. I tend to over bend a bit to allow for spring back during drying.
3) I am generally low tech in my modeling, and this applies to clamping. I use a variety of cheap spring clamps, but often resort to using my fingers to hold planks in place until the glue takes hold.
 
Hope this is helpful.
 
Bob

First of all, thank you to everyone who has liked my posts and to those who have replied.
 
As you can tell I am posting a lot to catch up to where I have built.
 
11/26 – 12/12/15 – Read Rafine’s log repeatedly.  Decided to order the AOS book by Portia Takakjian, “The 32 Gun Frigate Essex” for reference.  I am also reading through other build logs to see what can help me with this and I bought a copy of planking techniques for Model Ship Builders by Donald Dressel.
 
I thought the change to the knights heads that Rafine made looked better than the kit set-up so I fabricated them and added them to the bow.
 

 
I measured the spacing between the BH’s and cut the parts to make the gun port framing. 
 
Starting in the stern I built the framing forward on the starboard side and then the port, carefully checking my measurements and adjusting as I went.
 

 
I also made the stern filler blocks and bonded them. Once everything was bonded and fully dried I started sanding.
 

 
After the AOS Essex book arrived I added the door framing to the quarter galleries as Rafine did.
 

 
 I have finished sanding the outside profile and have begun the more difficult interior surfaces.  I had to make two special sanding blocks to allow me to reach all the surfaces I wanted to sand.  
 

Welcome to the Essex club on MSW. It's a very small and exclusive group right now. You look like you're off to a very good start. I hope that my log will provide you with some help, and please feel free to ask me any questions you may have, either through your log or by PM. Good luck.
 
Bob

11/21/15 – Started fairing the bulkheads for planking.  Just by feel and observation, hard to know what is “right”.  Removed cabin bulkheads from laser cut sheet.
 
 
11/22-24/15 – Assembled cabin bulkheads and completed stern cabin framing for windows, etc
 
 
11/25/15 – Thanksgiving break!

11/6-21/15 – I modified three of the BH’s to allow space for the 3rd deck cut-outs.  I had to fill part of the precut slots using scrap from the same sheet the bulkheads came from.  See the pictures in the previous post.  I also then had to deepen the notches in the bulkhead former to allow the newly modified BH’s to sit at the correct height.
 
Finished sanding bulkheads, cut plastic shim stock to fit bulkheads, half on each side, and bonded all 22, about 2 or 3 a night except weekends when I could do more. 
 

 
I fitted and then bonded the two strong backs on either side of the bulkhead former to assure a straight keel line. Measured distances between bonded bulkheads and cut fillers per instructions using my Micro-lux table saw.  Bonded fillers and also cut and formed bow spacer in front of bulkhead 1, then bonded into place.  
 

First off thank you for the likes.  Please feel free to ask questions of offer advice.
 
11/4-6/15 – Started sanding off burn marks on bulkheads and tapered bow bulkheads to etched lines.  Completed through bulkhead 17 with only one broken part, glued for overnight repair. 
 

 
I think I will do shallow 3rd deck cut-outs that do not interfere with the pre-notched longitudinal stiffeners that are new to the reworked kit.  Maybe ½” to 3/4" deep to show some depth through the 2nd deck gratings and hints of the gangways/stairs.
 

 
I used a picture from the instructions for the USF Confederacy that showed the lines between the wood segments used to fabricate the bow, keel and stern pieces to estimate location and then marked those on the Essex parts using a fine pencil.  It helped me understand how these were made on the real ship and may show up though the paint, we will see.  I drilled and pined the parts as suggested after bonding them over the Rabbet strip.
 

 
I cut the bearding line before bonding the BH’s using a small chisel and sandpaper.

11/1/15 – Cut out and dry fitted BH1-BH22.  Sanded top surfaces flat. (see pictures)
 

 
Sanded a few notches to help adjust fit.  Some of the BH fit snug while others have various amount of gaps.  Seems that the “new” version of the kit fixed the problem of BH’s being too thick to fit into the laser cut slots on BH 23 and BH24.  Used a feeler gauge to measure gaps.
 
11/2/15 – Obtained plastic shim stock to fill gaps as noted:
 

 
Note that I use shim stock ½ the gap thickness to fit on both sides of the BH’s to keep their positions. The new kit does not have cut outs for the berthing deck because the BH’s are set up with notches and two strongbacks to stiffen the assembly and prevent any warping of BH23 and BH24 from curving the whole frame assembly.  Debated doing third deck cut-outs anyway and finally decided to do some version of them.
 


 
Sincerely,
Engineer57

Mark, the perseverance is paying off, its looking spot on, good luck with proceeding further in the build.  

Mark, the perseverance is paying off, its looking spot on, good luck with proceeding further in the build.  

Mark, the perseverance is paying off, its looking spot on, good luck with proceeding further in the build.  

Mark, the perseverance is paying off, its looking spot on, good luck with proceeding further in the build.  

Mark, the perseverance is paying off, its looking spot on, good luck with proceeding further in the build.  

Robbyn,  I believe this is the paragraph you are referring to.
 

 
You only need to be concern with this if you don't have the 3/16" clearance between the top of the bulkheads and the gun port sills.  If you have less than 3/16" you need to sand down the tops of the bulkheads so the first plank will fit. When sanding just make sure you maintain the camber of the deck along the bulkheads from side to side, you don't want to just sand down the ends of the bulkheads because the deck won't lay right.  .  Hope this helps. 
 

 
 

The model making business is a continuous learning curve, Mark. She's looking much better. I don't know whether it's the photos, but check the spacing and angles of the counter timbers. They don't look quite equally spaced: particularly on the port side. If they are not, it will come back to bite you later when making the lights.

Thanks for the comments and the "likes".    
 
Good eye, Druxey.  It's not the counter.. it's that framing piece I put in.  It's about 1 mm too wide and sticks out too far.  Rats....  Easy to fix though. 
 
Edit of the edit:   close inspection shows a tolerance build up.   I'll fix it during the planking as the light on the port side is about 1 mm too wide.  Not sure what happened but it's easily fixed.
 
Actually, gentlemen, I've become even harder on myself and bolder in redos as my scrap box will testify.  But it's all good.  I'm also accepting the "dings"... 

Bagged it!!!   Still needs a bit of work to strengthen, probably some knees as this is pretty flimsy.  I suspect the planking will help but I'd rather keep Murphy away....
 
First.. the deconstruction... cleaned out the debris and shaped it a bit better.
 

 
Then attached the framing.   This is where the problems hit... not that flexible and didn't get the shape of the existing frames just right.  Also, the mortises on the existing frames crumbled.. could be the wood, could be me.  And broke several frames filing and cutting them in.  Gave it up, cleared off the damaged areas and glued it in place.
 

 
Clamps removed and tarffrail set into position.  It'll need a bit of fitting shaping and all the char removed but I'll hold off until this is completely planked.
 

 
Looking a lot farther ahead in this area, will be the carvings.  Still sorting out what the NMM plans really show and also what was common in the French frigates of the time.  I suspect there will be some trade-offs because what Hahn shows would be really tiny.   Not sure if they eyeball are up to it even with magnification.   We'll see.
 
I'm going to let this sit overnight and cure out completely while looking at other things needed and maybe making the knees.  I think where the stern is now looks 100% better than where I started.   Every step is a learning step or so it seems and this way is a darn sight easier than the way Hahn did it.

Thanks for the "likes"and the comments.   Mortises are out as the wood is too thin and fragile.  I'm now on (for lack of a better term) taffrail frame #4.   I'm exploring a different method now but one that should work and give me foundation for the planking.
 
 
It's saving me a lot of hours, Pat and a lot of headaches.  I can pop out pieces pretty quick once the artwork is done.
 
You want to use this to cut away something on the ship?  I don't think that would work out well at all... I predict smoke and massive amounts of damage. 
 
 
 
I've used the German version as that's what my grandmother taught me...      Lately, the metaphors have become, shall we say, more colorful...  
 
 
Uh... no.  At this point, it's just the upper stern transom where the taffrail sits.  I hope I don't screw things up that a total rebuild becomes necessary..  so far, so good.
 
 
The toy just cuts the parts, sir.  Clean up is still by hand. including all the char. 
 
 
Thanks Jose. I agree entirely about it being better and helping the confidence level.  
 
Back to finessing and fitting small pieces of wood to make a big piece of wood....  

I've come to the conclusion that a re-do is 99% of the time the right thing.  I just don't want to start a 3rd build log of this beast.      

De-Construction Time....  
 
The first pic shows some of the problem.. very rough, not symmetrical.  IF I had known then what I know now, it would have been done differently.  I tried to follow Hahn's method of small shaped pieces between the framing.  FAIL.
 

 
The second photo shows my solution.  This piece is the prototype out of basswood.  I'm cutting the real deal out of cherry for strength.  My plan is to remove the small bits of wood and mortise this piece onto the frames.  It's symmetrical and more importantly matches the seating for the taffrail.  The planking will cover the framing and this piece.
 

 
Here's another prototype shot.. the new frame piece and the taffrail.  The taffrail will be boxwood. I'm changing my wood choices for boxwood for the trim and decorations.  
 

 
Once the framing is in and the stern planked and sanded, I'll add the taffrail.  
 
To be continued........

Thanks for the "likes" and the comments.  
 
I cleaned up the bow area where at the beakhead to get it straight and plumb.   
 
I'm just about finished sanding the inside..  still have some tricky areas to clean up.  
 
I'm also working on the stern which is a horse of a different color.   I've thinned it out some more, and am looking at the way the taffrail fits (it doesn't but that's very fixable), the carvings on the taffrail and the trim (for lack of a better word) above and below the windows.   
 
The framing  where the taffrail sits is quite what I hoped for so I'll be removing it and replacing it using some pieces copied from the plans and cut with the laser but I think I want to try re-shaping it before I start cutting things away.   I'll show the process later when it's done. 
 
On those trim pieces, it appears Hahn used two types of wood for each of these, but I'm giving it some thought as many of the French ships have one solid piece that's been shaped using a scarper.  Also, I'm in disagreement with some of the carvings.. more research needed.
 
I'm also removing selected bits of the framing between the cut-line and the build board for access.
 
 
Umm... David... it's got one coat of wipe on poly on it.
 
 
I don't think it's fungus, Tony.  When the sawdust was mixed with the poly is when it went black.  And not every "batch" of sanding dust/poly went black in the gaps.  That's the weird part.  But, for now, I'm not going to worry about it.  

Thank you for the "likes" and comments.    Sadly, once sanding on the interior is complete, she'll back on her head for me to continue working the exterior.  I'm still a long way off from cutting her loose but I will be remove selected framing between the ship and build board when I need access.  I've done some checking and for the most part, it looks like the nubs that added to the framing before cutting are going to work out when it's time to install the deck clamps. 
 
Greg,
I've not done a full power test yet, but the DeathStar is indeed working better.  The kerf is less and the "V"ing that one sees is minimal.  I've only tested on some 3/16" cherry and boxwood but will give 1/4" a shot as soon as possible. 
 
 
I hope everyone has a wonderful new year and that the wonderful continues throughout the year.

A bit of an update.  First off, here's hull "right-side up".... I'm liking the way she looks.
 

 
I removed some of the build board material around the transom area to give me some working room. If you'll go back to previous pictures, the transom is actually glued to the build board.   When I removed the board, I found some problems with the transom.  Not a show stopper or a big problem.   Some fairing/sanding and maybe removal/replacement of some of the small framing will fix it nicely.  Once fixed, I can continue on with the planking and build up of the transom.
 

 
I also finally took a good look at the interior.  I held off sanding and fairing it because I knew my planking clamps were going to cause <ahem> issues, shall we say.   Now is also the time to fair it out and fix any problems.  I'm not seeing any serious problems, just a lot of sanding and fairing.  So this area, along with the transom is being attended to.  I also wanted to get this out of the way at this point as when I install the galleries, stern windows, etc. removing the sanding dust would be a real problem if I waited to sand until they were done.  Another reason is, I don't want to damage anything with the handling needed during sanding. 
 

 
I have to admit I'm pretty damn happy right now.  The problems are not as bad as I thought they'd be and overall, looking pretty good.