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CTYankee

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About CTYankee

  • Birthday April 19

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    San Jose, CA

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  1. Happy New Year All, I hope this update find you all well. I've been making slow progress since November. I finally finished the initial assembly and have moved on to painting. I finally found a spray primer from the HW store that didn't give me excessive trouble. It is a Krylon and maybe is a bit too "industrial" as the spray nozzle lays it on quite heavy, but, after swapping on a nozzle from a different rattle can I got the boat coated and ready for finish painting. This step is very slow as its cold here in northern CA and as I usually work early mornings I can only find time to paint about once per week. That and I'm still figuring out how to brush well. Its a delicate balance. I'm still putting on coats of white. Next time I would probably prime white instead of grey but I picked grey as that is what came with the original kit. Here are just a few pictures from the last few months. I'll update more as the painting progresses.
  2. @pwog - Thats an interesting idea. The issue I am having is not with their paint. As I mentioned in this thread or another, I used the True North Primer very quickly as I was practicing use a bit before committing paint to my boat and at the time I was not thinning it enough so it didn't last long. Both issues I had were with Testors products (model master brush on and main-line rattle can). I am going to try some HW store primer next I think as I have read many folks, such as Schooner have good luck with it.
  3. Just want to let you all know I haven't abandoned my build- I've just had terrible luck painting... I've applied and removed primer twice now. I need to take about a month break due to some other projects and hope to be back to work by mid-November. Take Care-
  4. @Bob Cleek another N00B question- do you use IPA, denatured ethanol, top-shelf vodka ;)?
  5. I think I'm jinxed... I couldn't find any crushable enamel primer anywhere so I transitioned to Testors Spray Primer. I removed all the old paint using thinner, then acetone. This left a layer of the original primer that was really well cured. So I didn't remove that. I then sprayed the boat. In this spray some of the surfaces were new and thus virgin wood, and some of them were previously painted but down to bare wood (with a slight tint to them where the pain sunk in, I think) and she had the original well cured primer. The instructions state: recoat within 30 minutes or after 48 ours to prevent wrinkling (is that 'orange peel'?), so thats what I did. One light coat, waited unit it looked dry, another, waited, then another. I waited 48 Hours to find the paint still doesn't sand well- gums up the paper. I've now waited about a week, same situation- better than before but still not great. What do you all think I did wrong? I didn't wait long enough? Put it on too thick.? BTW- its been ~90 degrees and pretty dry (~50%RH) here in San Jose. Tagging some friends from my other paint thread (https://modelshipworld.com/topic/25522-iso-enamel-tips-for-beginners/) so y'all see this and can weight in: @Bob Cleek @pwog @Dr PR @Louie da fly @druxey @mtaylor
  6. This thread has become an incredible source of knowledge! Amazing all! @Bob Cleek Actually- i think that is Vallejo Model Air. Thats a pre-thinned acrylic, right?
  7. @MrBlueJacket, I don’t understand what you mean by once you tape, painting under the tape do you mean: don’t try tape on bare wood because the tape will never stick and seal properly. So alway tape on a pre painted surface, or c,ear if you want the unpainted look?
  8. @Bob Cleek I finally watched that video. It was great! for Enamel paint- anything you’d do very differently?other than use natural bristle brushes and thin with the correct thinner? I also noticed no primer here- is that unique to plastic models? I’m having a hard time finding enamel model primer and I can’t figure out why! finally- great tip on using artist paints. I tried some on some scrap for an experiment and I couldn’t figure out why it never dried! have a great weekend!
  9. @pwog you are using that included primer on all wood surfaces before the final color coats right? In other words you have primer grey beneath the white, correct? I can't tell for sure based on your comment: ". I finished my priming and still have enough primer left to paint the well deck floor, as required."
  10. Thanks all for the valuable feedback here! Lots to think about.
  11. Good day all- In my other thread: @druxey suggested i use ‘universal’ spray primer. Can someone clarify what that is? I see a bunch of references to Tamiya, but i thought tamiya was acrylic and I am not sure if that will be compatible with the enamel paints i plan to put over top. In a different thread @wefalck mentioned the paint systems need o be compatible, so I am bit nervous. I have already spent hours un-borking my previous boo-boo. (I started this new thread to help newbs like me find the answer to this question in the future. I’m sure I’m not the only one who is- or has been- mystified)
  12. Thanks for all of the guidance. This forum is so wonderful- people of all different skill sets helping each other out. There’s a ton of junk on the internet these days but this is just the top of the top.
  13. @Louie da fly good point. I was actually referring to painting over the first coat of the other primer which has cured nicely.
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