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Ron Burns

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About Ron Burns

  • Birthday 03/01/1962

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Ottawa, Ontario
  • Interests
    Burying my nose in good historical fiction, Card modeling and of course, ship modeling

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418 profile views
  1. Tom, whatever you choose to do, I hope you continue to document it here. I would have liked to see your solid hull Winnie come together but after seeing your style and attention to detail, anything will be a joy to watch. Although I'm not 70 I did bugger up my back years ago. Take it slow but don't baby it too much. It would be good to know if you just pulled something or truly damaged it (I pray not). My thoughts are with you and we'll see you back at it. If you're anything like all of us here, you wont stay away Ron
  2. Tom, next to checking on Chuck's Winchelsea updates, yours and JJ's are the builds I look forward to the most (not that the others are aren't noteworthy ..far from it!). I am waiting to see our resident Michelangelo start his sculpting. Yesterday's post really showed the immense size and mass of your ship and the lines are definitely hiding there. Adding the temporary keel hints that you are poised carve. I can't wait!
  3. Those are some pretty sexy cheeks! I can't wait until it all gets released. Thanks for an immaculate job Chuck.
  4. Vlad, you are a machine! I can see how lining off the hull makes such a difference. What kind of wood are you using? That photo of your ship upside down on the chair really shows the beautiful curves of the hull. Like a beautiful lady posing in the sun
  5. Ok, one more thing down First layer of wales complete along with black strake. I'm glad I ripped out my first attempt and redid them. Of course they will look better covered with the next layer. Now to make things count and try to do them right. Single layer from here on in!
  6. Tom, I think I should check my birth certificate 'cause we might have the same middle name I just have a IV or V after my name! I ended up ripping that entire side off yesterday as it was a bit wonky. The first strake didn't sit right and and when being pried off decided to take some of it's brothers with it. I can't imagine trying to remove so much on a solid hull! The surface area being bonded to would make that a supreme PITA!
  7. Your Winnie is coming along really well! I just wanted to say thank you for showing how you planked around the gunports. For the life of me I couldn't figure out a good way to measure out the rabbet until I saw your method. Not looking forward to fairing the insides!
  8. WOW! Those are many more options than I realized possible. This will prove to be a great learning experience and I think I will give the dye a shot along with the steel wool and vinegar just to have options in the future. Experimenting is *always* fun and any method that keeps me away from a paint brush will keep me *and* the model very happy! Thank you very much
  9. Thank you Jim, Tom and Jaager (I apologize, I don't know your name). The piece in question looks wedge-like in the photo. It's actually relatively square but the macro function and the angle of the photo really made it look off. Unfortunately, Ottawa doesn't have too many places to provide the re-sawing service. I have used the advice and sent out a few feelers and hope to get a note back. Black Hornbeam is actually just hornbeam that is impregnated with a black resin through and through. Hornbeam, from what I understand is not very useful except for firewood until it's been stabilized w
  10. I did as Chuck instructed and I also liberally glued the joint. I did mine on a piece of tempered glass just to make sure it was a perfectly flat joint with a few weights on it as it cured. That false keel will stand on it's own when you get it together
  11. Hi everyone, I'm sorry if this has been gone over before but I am looking for some re-sawing advice. I have a small piece of Black Hornbeam that is roughly 4cm x 4 cm x 35cm. I am looking to create some planking for the wales of my Winchelsea. Unfortunately I am only in possession of a 9" porter cable band saw. With the proper fence set up and the correct tension, do you think it is possible with my bandsaw with the stock blade? I'm willing to try it if you guys think its possible. The other question I had was which way to cut? Here's a pic of the hornbeam on end showing the grain.
  12. Absolutely awesome program that keeps me from having to load up Photoshop every time I want to post. It literally took me seconds to load the program and resize 3 images. Thank you for something that is actually useful!
  13. Wow! I can actually see the shape of the hull quite clearly now. You must be nearing 30 lbs or more before you start trimming off the 'fat'. Thank you Tom for those great explanations as you go along. It does a soul good to think along different lines of construction once in awhile and I am really enjoying it (think I mentioned the enjoying part before)
  14. OK, I lied. I had to show this. 1 wale down, 3/4 wale to go. I'm really glad this is a first layer planking and that i will be adding more. Its definitely a learning process and I'm positive there will be more than a few do-overs after this. JJ, thanks for those pics. They made a world of difference. One thing I learned, wait until all strakes are installed, then sand. I had installed 2, sanded a bit and then the other 2. My sanding is never perfect and it took just a wee bit more to level out all 4 strakes in the end. I also like the idea of giving those planks a bit of extra meat on their bo
  15. Looks like a great device but us in N America would require single phase 120V 60hz. Our 208 (240) is actually using 2 phases and is used for stoves and dryers on a dual breaker rated from 20-30 amperes. It looks like a good 30 watt soldering iron with a great looking head on it for shaping planks. I have a butane iron I use that would be the cat's meow with that head on it! Come to think of it, it looks like it will fit your average soldering iron...
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