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About CTYankee

  • Birthday April 19

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    San Jose, CA

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  1. @pwog - Thats an interesting idea. The issue I am having is not with their paint. As I mentioned in this thread or another, I used the True North Primer very quickly as I was practicing use a bit before committing paint to my boat and at the time I was not thinning it enough so it didn't last long. Both issues I had were with Testors products (model master brush on and main-line rattle can). I am going to try some HW store primer next I think as I have read many folks, such as Schooner have good luck with it.
  2. Just want to let you all know I haven't abandoned my build- I've just had terrible luck painting... I've applied and removed primer twice now. I need to take about a month break due to some other projects and hope to be back to work by mid-November. Take Care-
  3. @Bob Cleek another N00B question- do you use IPA, denatured ethanol, top-shelf vodka ;)?
  4. I think I'm jinxed... I couldn't find any crushable enamel primer anywhere so I transitioned to Testors Spray Primer. I removed all the old paint using thinner, then acetone. This left a layer of the original primer that was really well cured. So I didn't remove that. I then sprayed the boat. In this spray some of the surfaces were new and thus virgin wood, and some of them were previously painted but down to bare wood (with a slight tint to them where the pain sunk in, I think) and she had the original well cured primer. The instructions state: recoat withi
  5. This thread has become an incredible source of knowledge! Amazing all! @Bob Cleek Actually- i think that is Vallejo Model Air. Thats a pre-thinned acrylic, right?
  6. @MrBlueJacket, I don’t understand what you mean by once you tape, painting under the tape do you mean: don’t try tape on bare wood because the tape will never stick and seal properly. So alway tape on a pre painted surface, or c,ear if you want the unpainted look?
  7. @Bob Cleek I finally watched that video. It was great! for Enamel paint- anything you’d do very differently?other than use natural bristle brushes and thin with the correct thinner? I also noticed no primer here- is that unique to plastic models? I’m having a hard time finding enamel model primer and I can’t figure out why! finally- great tip on using artist paints. I tried some on some scrap for an experiment and I couldn’t figure out why it never dried! have a great weekend!
  8. @pwog you are using that included primer on all wood surfaces before the final color coats right? In other words you have primer grey beneath the white, correct? I can't tell for sure based on your comment: ". I finished my priming and still have enough primer left to paint the well deck floor, as required."
  9. @Bob Cleek thank you for such a detailed and thoughtful answer!
  10. Thanks all for the valuable feedback here! Lots to think about.
  11. Good day all- In my other thread: @druxey suggested i use ‘universal’ spray primer. Can someone clarify what that is? I see a bunch of references to Tamiya, but i thought tamiya was acrylic and I am not sure if that will be compatible with the enamel paints i plan to put over top. In a different thread @wefalck mentioned the paint systems need o be compatible, so I am bit nervous. I have already spent hours un-borking my previous boo-boo. (I started this new thread to help newbs like me find the answer to this question in the future. I’m sure I
  12. Thanks for all of the guidance. This forum is so wonderful- people of all different skill sets helping each other out. There’s a ton of junk on the internet these days but this is just the top of the top.
  13. @Louie da fly good point. I was actually referring to painting over the first coat of the other primer which has cured nicely.
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