AnobiumPunctatum

Thanks for sharing the videos of your build. They are a great help.
 
I wish you and your family a Mery Christmas and a Happy New Year.

The second year of my build is almost over. Not much progress this year, but I hope that I can post a last update at New Year's Eve.
 
It's time to say Thank You to all who followed my log, to all who wrote their own log I where I found so much hints and inspiration and to the crew of this wonderful forum for their great job..
 

The second year of my build is almost over. Not much progress this year, but I hope that I can post a last update at New Year's Eve.
 
It's time to say Thank You to all who followed my log, to all who wrote their own log I where I found so much hints and inspiration and to the crew of this wonderful forum for their great job..
 

The second year of my build is almost over. Not much progress this year, but I hope that I can post a last update at New Year's Eve.
 
It's time to say Thank You to all who followed my log, to all who wrote their own log I where I found so much hints and inspiration and to the crew of this wonderful forum for their great job..
 

Wow, that looks like a very interesting project. I will follow with interest.

Hello everyone!
This is my first build log for ship-model building, The Zeehaen, a 17th century dutch merchant ship.
The primary references is 17th CENTURY DUTCH MERCHANT SHIPS(by Ab Hoving) and Shipbuilding in the Dutch Golden Age. The reason for choosing zeehaen is it seems simple but a bit special, and the carving patterns are relatively simple for me to practice. Cor Emke's plans are not suitable for a full frame ship model, but I like some challenging making, although I find I think too simple at first- my 3D building process seemed to hit a brick wall, I can't get any reliable reference of internal structure on the stem and stern. so I finally changed my mind and took Mike Y's advice- start my log while the project is not yet completed. Perhaps someone can provide more accurate internal structural drawings to correct my mistakes, in addition, I also make a presentation of my making methods- Almost all parts were designed by 2D/3D and output to CNC processing.
 
This is current progress








 
The frames from k#-35# using 2D cutting



 
Assembly process







 
Keel and some special-shaped parts using CNC double-sided milling processing
The "V slot" was  processed directly by CNC.





 




 
even so tiny parts were processed by CNC


 








 
The Building jig
This kind of jig is recommended by my friend, wangshuoliurui,as a senior shipmodel builder in china. I think this kind of jig is more suitable for those hull in 17th Century.



 
Some experiments of figurehead or figurine carving patterns were designed by 3d and processed by multi-axial CNC .


 
3Dmodel was build by rhino, This requires accurate size.

 
Convert the model into polygon format
output to zbrush and sculpt it by virtual technology

 
CNC programming and machining.

 
 
 
 
 

This is the last Video this year. Many thanks for all your support and help.
 
Kevin

I had to change some errors in the video so had to repost.
Kevin

I added the sheer pole.  It is lashed to the outside of the shrouds above the deadeyes.  I painted it black but it could have been left natural also.  It is just a 1/32" x 1/32" strip with the edges rounded off a bit.
 
Then I started the ratlines with .012 rope.  You dont want to go heavy with these. The outside shrouds are simple square knots.  But I used clove hitches on each inside shrouds.  I urge folks to use them rather than simply tie a knot on all four shrouds.  The lines hang much better.  Its easy to do.
 

 

 
I used a card with both horizontal lines and lines to show the shrouds.  Its not enough to just use horizontal lines.   Having the shrouds drawn on the card will make it easier to watch your progress.  You dont want to gradually pull the shrouds in.  That hourglass shape for shrouds on a model is the kiss of death.  This helps you keep them straight and not pull them in as you progress.  I found it better to leave the ratlines a little loose rather than pull them tight and I try to shape them after its done.  
 

 
Only some watered down white glue was applied on the knots of the outer shrouds only.   The two inner shrouds have no glue at all.  I waited until a series of rows were complete so I could adjust them before adding the glue.  You can also see that I finally cut off all the loose ends at the belaying points after re-tensioning the lines and I added rope coils to the belaying points.
 

 
Now its time to start the ratlines on the starboard side.  Yay for me.  Merry Christmas everyone!!!
 
Chuck

Dupree,
 
If you haven't yet, check each plan separately for proper scaling and printing size.  Use your ruler (and scaling tables) and the scale on the plans.  Don't ask how I know this.. but I will say, it was painful.

Just now received Ed Tostis' book. Looks like the book I'm currently reading about HMS Valkyrie will have to go on hold for a few nights.
 
Dupree

Anguriel,
 
looks really good. I think it is very helpful to let a little bit more timber on both sides of the frame. So you can sand the whole section in one step and egalize small differences without makeing the frames to small durig this step.

Wise move, Ben. I had the same issue when trying to drill my hawse hawse in v.1. At least you have them properly located now and finish by hand. I had little success doing them the way David recommends in the book (adding them to each hawse timber before gluing them in place). That requires a level of precision above my pay grade!
 
Looking forward to next years continued progress.

Thanks for the likes.
 
Fun was had today setting up the mill and drilling the hawse holes at the correct 10 degree angle as measured off the plans. They were only drilled out to 4" at the moment, the rest of the way will be done with a tapered reamer, but this has given the correct position and angle of the holes.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 191 – Decking the Fore Top
 
Just when I was having fun with wood, more ironwork was needed.  The first picture shows the addition of iron reinforcing for the rim in the area where the topmast shrouds will be positioned.
 

 
The iron in this case is .010" copper, snipped to the shape of the top, glued on with CA.  It was then trimmed to shape and polished, at least on the port side in the picture.
 
The next picture shows the frame temporarily wedged on to the hounds.
 

 
The iron rim caps have been drilled through the index points.  The wooden rim cap that will cover the plank ends is being glued on in this picture.  In the next picture, planking of the top is proceeding.
 

 
Planks are 6" x 2 ½" thick.  The 9" fairlead planks have been drilled and are being installed.  The next picture shows the top with all planking installed.
 

 
The holes in the rim have been converted to slots that will pass the deadeye straps.  Also, the two iron fid plates on which the topmast fid will rest have been installed.  Work on the fore mast cap has begun and is shown in the picture.
 
The next picture shows the top again placed on the hounds.
 

 
In the next picture the top has been trimmed out and the ironwork blackened. 
 

 
There are six eyebolts under the forward rim for the fore course bunt and leech lines.  The two on the top of the rim will be hooked to the tackles of the upper topsail sheets.  An interesting location for these.  Belaying points for the added upper topsails may have been difficult to find on the crowded deck rails.  The next picture shows the aft side.
 

 
The eyebolt just aft of the mast will secure the main topgallant stay.  There should be just sufficient space between this and the mast for the shroud collars.  The shackled eyebolt on the aft crosstree will anchor the standing lift on the spencer gaff.  There may need to be a bracket added forward of the topmast to secure an iron stay for the lower topsail yard that will be fixed at the cap.
 
Last post before the holidays.  All the best to everyone in this special season.
 
Ed

I normaly use treenails. I put them in before installing the frames. I am not sure if brass or copper wire will work in the same way. But it's easy to test. Cut one futtock a little bit oversized. Put it some wire and treenails and sand them to the correct size. So you will see if your idea´and material work as exspected.

A lot of time is spent figuring out the details. Books help a bit. But almost always something missing. I have to spend a lot of time to think. As many times to view different information.     I drew a line on the model body. Different parts of the painted in a different color. Red - something that will be removed.

Fashion piece   - paper and wood.         [/url]    156_21807879.jpg'>

I normaly use treenails. I put them in before installing the frames. I am not sure if brass or copper wire will work in the same way. But it's easy to test. Cut one futtock a little bit oversized. Put it some wire and treenails and sand them to the correct size. So you will see if your idea´and material work as exspected.

Brilliant

Anguriel,
 
looks really good. I think it is very helpful to let a little bit more timber on both sides of the frame. So you can sand the whole section in one step and egalize small differences without makeing the frames to small durig this step.

Mark out first, then prick the spots with a sharp point. That way the drill point won't 'wander' off the marks.