AnobiumPunctatum
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from FriedClams in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
As always, it's a pleasure to follow your progres.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
The many stub toptimbers have been cut and dry fitted. Their shapes vary along the length of the boat. I cut them using my favorite tool; a ¼" chisel. Using a larger blade makes seeing the cutting angles easier. Next will be refining the fit and gluing the toptimbers in.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from FrankWouts in HMS Winchelsea - FINISHED - 1764 - by Chuck (1/4" scale)
It's looking really nice.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from thibaultron in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
As always, it's a pleasure to follow your progres.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from mtaylor in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
As always, it's a pleasure to follow your progres.
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AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Keith Black in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
As always, it's a pleasure to follow your progres.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Well, I thought I was progressing well with the stub toptimbers. I'd completed the port side when I realized that I'd beveled them the wrong way: instead of the outer surfaces being almost vertical, they flared outward. A session of water (isopropanol would have been too aggressive and loosened planking) followed by 'tooth-pulling' - and teeth grinding! - ensued. I've now begun a second batch of correct toptimbers. They have an almost comma-shaped profile and are tedious to make and fit.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to Blue Ensign in Queen Anne Royal Barge circa 1700 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Syren Ship Models - 1:24 scale
Post Thirty-six
Applying friezes.
Before I started I re-sprayed the friezes using Windsor & Newton fixative.
2079(2)
An improvised spray booth.
2077(2)
A kit was put together to aid this rather tedious task.
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Diluted pva applied with fine brush was used to glue the friezes in place. A centre blank attached to a toothpick is used to press the friezes into place.
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The addition of the friezes transforms the look of the barge.
At this point I add the support bracket for the bow Flagstaff.
This probably also doubles up as a hull brace.
2085(2)
Quite a tricky little beggar to fit, ensuring it is central and sits as best it can down on the bow frieze panels. Even so a touch of filler is required to smooth out the edge joins.
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I ran a bead of diluted pva along the joins. Once that has cured, I will complete the filling and paint the bracket.
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2089(2)
Best part of a day to see this task completed, time to crack open the Merlot I think. 🍷
B.E.
26/05/21
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
So, onward again. Next are the stern sheets (seats). Here is an interesting departure from the published plans. The card pattern has a distinctly different outline when fitted to the model. I checked immediately whether the riser height that supports the thwarts was too low. It it is on spec. If the lines plan is true (and it faired out perfectly) then the plan of the stern sheets must be wrong. This, I suspect has to be the case, so will continue using my pattern shape. Beneath the stern sheets is a low partial bulkhead and two supporting knees. These are not shown other than in section on the profile but are seen in the photograph, post #203. (The knee is only just visible to the right of the anti-hogging post added by the museum.) These photos are as good as a time machine! Thank you again, Eberhard.
Thanks for dropping by, and remember to sign on for the Trafalgar project!
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Thanks for looking in and the compliments.
Moving on, the thwarts are in and the hull now fixed to within an inch of spec'd beam. A little miniature metalwork produced the clasp for the mast. It was fabricated from brass, silver soldered and then chemically darkened rather than blackened. I felt black would have been a little too much contrast to the wood color.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Moving on, all the standards (inverted knees) have been added to the thwarts and the model removed from the 'girdle'. As the standards are so small, I've found it easier to install them oversize and then reduce them to final dimension when firmly glued in. You can see some 'as installed' ones and other standards finished. To shape them, I use micro chisels and a custom sandpaper stick.
Next are the pillars under the thwarts. To turn such thin pieces, it is necessary to support them. I cut down a piece of brass tube and fixed in in the tailstock so that the stock can revolve freely in it. Notches mark the main dimensions of the baluster so that I can replicate the turning.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Spent the morning trimming and installing the turned stanchions under the thwarts and making miscellaneous hardware: ringbolts, eyebolts and hooks that are located along the inwale. All the standards above the thwarts have also been shaved down to their final shapes. The photos show how thin the outer planking is!
Next up will be the short toptimbers that support the wash strake.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Well, the test run seems to work, if a little labor intensive. The brass strips act as depth stops and I used a piece of cross-batten stock to act as a spacer. A little refinement of the method, then the actual grating is next....
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Next is a major challenge; a small and complex grating aft. I first cut a pattern in card and it fit the inside of the model perfectly. Whew! Next was pondering how to construct the grating. Using rubber cement on such small pieces was not an option; rubber cement is poor in resisting shear forces. I decided to PVA glue pieces to the pattern which was rubber cemented to a piece of illustration board. The first stage is shown with the longitudinal battens in place. I'm still thinking about the best way to cut the scores for the athwartships battens. More soon!
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to JpR62 in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by JpR62 - 1:48 scale
Thank you Blue Ensign for your kind words and thank you to all the 'Likes'.
As I have resumed my work on the longboat, I move slowly on the Cheerful.
I set up the separation between the two rooms. I still have to place the door between the two rooms.
The door will remain open so that light can pass between the two rooms.
The two side walls of the captain's room are ready to be glued.
Just need to add a few micro details on the hinges and I can glue them inside the ship. And blacken the door handles.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Moving aft, there is a transom knee springing from the inwale on each side. I glue them in slightly over-size and then carefully trim them down along the curve which has a rolling bevel. The starboard side is complete and the port side knee has just been glued in.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Now that the length of this cutter has been settled, we continue.
The two inwales were tricky in that both inner and outer surfaces have a rolling bevel. My strategy here was to shape the outer bevel and fit the inwales first. Then I sawed the inner shape wide of the marks. The inwales were glued in and then the inner faces carved to shape in place. A very sharp tool plus cutting with the grain were essential for this. The basic hull is very strong at this point and stands the stresses very well. A final sanding completed the inner faces of the inwales. I am now in the process of cutting and fitting an upper breast hook, making it in two pieces.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Having successfully trimmed back the futtock tops, the blanks for the inwales were cut. These posed several challenges. They are 2½" thick and wide, but their cross-section is a parallelogram, the angles changing constantly along the boat's side. I cut each out wider than the final width, bevelled the outer edge first, then fitted it to the boat.
The next challenge was to locate stub toptimbers that support the tholes and wash strake. These pass through the inwale and have to be spaced correctly to 'miss' the futtocks. They are now marked and ready for cutting. Once the slots are cut, the inwale will be glued in and the inner edge shaped correctly.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Next are the risers; the plank that the thwarts rest on. It was difficult to determine their shape as it is hard to measure vertical heights inside the boat. I 'proved' the spiled shape in card first. The risers will be cut from ¾" thick stock.
Keen-eyed folk will have noticed that some metalwork has been made and fitted while there is still easy access to the ends and bottom of the model.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Thank you, Maury.
The two floor boards have been made and installed. Then blessing (and curse!) of having the prototype to refer to is that one sees all kinds of detail not shown on the usual plans. The photographs show a delicate beaded molding along the edges of these boards so, of course, I had to try adding these.
First the planks were spiled and cut out. They are a scale 7" wide and 3/4" thick. The moldings were then carefully run. (I had this profile available from a previous open boat model.) the planks have considerable twist at both ends, They were hot water soaked and clipped in place to dry, then glued in permanently.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
There is much work yet to do, Eberhard. I'm going as fast as I can while still maintaining quality! The transom is still overheight at this point. All will become clear in time. There is a wash strake yet to go on, interrupted by tholes. It is supported by separate stub toptimbers. However, that is a long way off yet.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Maury: There are floors that will go in that butt against the futtocks. The keelson runs above the floors in this case. You'll see all this - eventually! The jig just give a me basic bend. After that, each frame has to be free-hand bent to fit. That is why this takes so much time. In previous models all I had to do was wet the holly stock and bend it in place, quick and easy.
Progress to this point:
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
This post should be labelled 'Snatching victory from the jaws of disaster'.
The removal of the model from the plug was more difficult than usual. I now realize why. In the past I've used holly for planking open boats. It bends easily and almost no moisture or heat was required. Castello is a different story. It needed a lot moisture and heat to form. In the process the planks welded in spots to the gesso layer on the plug. The photo tells the story. Repairs are under way, as you can also see. This will take a little time.
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Thank you, Keith, and all who have dropped by.
The last strake is on now and ready for the heart-stopper; getting the shell off the plug! No matter how careful, there is always some battle damage One simply hopes that it will be minimal, but one never knows. Once I've screwed up my courage, the frame extensions will be cut, the stem freed from its constraints and then.... Stay tuned!
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AnobiumPunctatum reacted to druxey in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Another two strakes completed. The next strake will be the sheer strake. A smooth sheer line will make or break the model. Speaking of breaking, the moment of truth nears; that of removing the shell from the plug. From past experience there will be loud cracking nosies - heart-stopping! - and usually a few planks 'spring' a little, but it is all repairable. We shall see....
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