achuck49
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Everything posted by achuck49
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Thanks Understand completely Will write small and attach small photo
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Thanks! Your explanation falls within my skill set
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Not certain What do they look like Can they marketing
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Good morning Simple question; when users include 'completed models' and a listing of them, is it first required that a completed build log be available and closed out? Chuck Aldrich
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Good Day I will attempt to be as clear as possible with this question, no illustrations are available at the moment. In some kits there will be printed, on one side only, the location of the rabbit (for example) but the other side will be blank. How is this accurately transferred to the blank side (mirror image)? I will use a cannon to determine the size of a gun port. This information is marked on the inside of the hull. How can I accurately move this information onto the outside of the hull, which is curved? Some instructions/blueprints will clearly so where the rabbit is to be located. This is, of course, a curve and shows only one side of the false hull, again a mirror image is required for the other side. Once again, what is the most accurate means of transferring this information? These are examples of my more general question. How is information located on one part of the model accurately moved to another location? Is there some type of tool/instrument involved that I have not thought of? Thanks for any help that you can provide Chuck Aldrich
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I have this same model in the closet. I am very anxious to see how your work goes. Chuck -
Planking Options
achuck49 replied to kurtde's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
If possible, please do a build log. I learn so much and there is so much expert advice here. Chuck -
False Hull Fillers
achuck49 replied to achuck49's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thanks so much Question completely answered -
Ahoy There is absolutely no rush in any comments (if any are provided), as it will be at least a month before I will again attempt to not ruin a boat. I have been reading a lot in the past couple of months, and have concentrated on filler blocks for the fore and aft portions of the false frame prior to planking. I have observed several different methods, and now wonder what is the easiest method of carving and shaping these pieces? I totally understand that the size and shape might affect the final product, so I am looking for a middle of the road solution that will pretty much cover all circumstances. We are in the process of moving to Topeka, Kansas so, again, no need to stop what you are doing and comment. I bow in envy to the master craftsmen. Chuck A
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Did something happen to stop this log? Following with interest
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One more set of ideas. Perhaps the following ideas could be of use. To draw new builders into the hobby create a small series of ships that increase in difficulty. The first model could be something like a 'row boat' or something similar. Teaches how to setup false hull, simple planking, sand and paint. What I really think would help is the inclusion of a DVD instructing what has to be done. Second model a sail boat. Reinforces the first model, simple rigging, etc. Include DVD Third model something with a deck. Include DVD Final model, something similar to the 'Ranger' (cannot remember the maker). Complex planking, deck, deck furniture, cannon (with rigging), rigging the ship and installation of sails. Include DVD I am not at all familiar with marketing, but if possible sell the first two models at places like Hobby Lobby, and other such chain stores. Chuck A.
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Please consider printing on both sides of wood. On some models they print suggested areas to taper or shape but do not flip the wood over print it on the other side and transferring these lines is sometimes not successful. On paper plans provide drawings of what the planks should look like. These drawings could be copied and attached to planks for accurate shaping and installation. Hope this makes sense, dealing with 5 year old granddaughter
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Can't this method be used for the first planking?
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Thanks for immediate response.
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I am reading Ben Lankford'so "how to build first rate models from kits", dated 2009. On page 23, there is a section on installing bulkheads. It discusses using a tick strip to transfer the amount of bevel from plans or the waterline drawing. I don't remember seeing this in plans and cannot grasp using waterline drawings. Can someone please explain both methods???
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Once again, thanks for the info. I was just looking at various photos of completed models and wondered about loading and unloading. What a rough way of making a living. thanks Chuck
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Thanks so much for the info and the wiki. I have bookmarked it. Should this type of detail be included in model kits or is it to much?
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Using a server with dead eyes, standing rigging
achuck49 replied to achuck49's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Sorry for taking so long to reply, 5 year–old granddaughter and plans to move to Topeka, Kansas take priority. Thanx for the information and so much of it. -
When looking or building ships like Cutty Sark, all of the masts and spars have a purpose. All of the blocks and tackle are used. So where are the cranes located that would be needed to load and unload cargo? On the dock?
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Greetings I will try to be very clear with this question. I have ordered a very simple server, it has not yet arrived, this is a question to keep me out of trouble later. I understand fully what the server does. My specific question concerns using it with standing rigging that end with dead eyes on both sides of the hull. I know that I can measure the amount of thread required, attach the dead eye to each end, serve each end, weave the completed thread through the model and be ready to thread the top set of dead eyes to the bottom corresponding set located on the hull. Here is the problem as I see it. The top dead eye is used first with a small know being used to keep it secure. The thread is then passed through the bottom dead eye, and so forth until a final pass through the bottom dead eye. The remaining thread is then moved to the top of the upper dead eye and is wrapped around the area that has already been 'served'. Is the last step done manually? Do I have the procedure incorrect? In any case I am anxious to play with my new tool when it arrives. Chuck (the very inexperienced Chuck)
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My 'duh' of the day is what is 'sheet material'? Got a picture of this? Why is it easier to spile? I am the last person to get concerned about authenticity (I just hope to finish a project) but wouldn't the builders use the same material in the shipyard, same length/width/deepth for this effort?
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thanks again to everyone Merry Christmas and a Better New Year
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I do appreciate the responses. When I read the various build logs, it looks like everything is so precise and everything fits perfectly. I have yet another question; suppose a piece of wood needs to be tapered before being used. Is it best to taper then bend or bend then taper to ensure final fit? If it is best to bend then taper, how does one accurately cut/sand/plane on a curved piece of wood?
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truely appreciate your answers. would 'estimation' of the curve be necessary when bending wood on a workboard with pins/nails?
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Merry Christmas I hope that I can clearly state this question. I see where a large number of builders bend planks and other pieces prior to placing them on the model. This is includes using hot irons and work boards with pins or nails to bend the wood. My question is how is the curve first determined so that the builder can place the pins/nails into a work board or know when the curve is sufficient when using hot irons? Side question: In mid-January I am moving to Stow, Ohio. Are there any ship building clubs that I could join in February or March? Thanks Chuck A.
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