DaveBaxt
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Jerry .Thanks for the tips which I am really grateful. Regarding the deck planks , are you doing one at a time or a bunch of them clipped together? I will have another practice and try your method with the marker pen. I have decided to concentrate on the decking and not sand & seal the hull yet as I now understand ( after googling lots) that glue does not take too well to sand & sealer unless sanded down to the wood again. So I thought I would do most of the gluing first including the channels and bulwark caps etc. I might have to hold back on sealing the deck as there looks to be lots of things to be glued to the deck.So waiting to do the sand & sealer until almost ready to paint. No doubt I will change my mind at some point and do it differently. Ha ha I am not sure following the instructions is necessarily the best way forward. Jerry may I ask, what glue did you use to glue things to the deck especially the metal items? On my last ship I tried using an epoxy glue but ended up using CA glue. For anything made of wood I used PVA.
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I have some acetone so will be ready next time. Thanks for another tip. I am learning all the time. Best regards Dave
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Update. Here is a few photos of the completed wales. Also I did a test on a few planks and secured several together then applied the permanent marker. It didn,t turn out as good as I hoped but think this might need a bit a practice as the lines didn't turn out to even. I tried one on its own which I thought turned out pretty good son although very time consuming I do think this will be important I get this right.
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Gregory Thank you for your input and that sounds like an idea I could use . I might give it a go as I have some sodium bicarbonate somewhere, not sure about the distilled water but easy enough to get my hand on some.Just for the record Gregory are you an advocate of CA glue for most jobs? best regards Dave
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Good morning Jerry.I have ordered some accelerator which should be with me in a couple of days. I did manage to complete the rest of the wales this morning using CA glue and just had to be patient. I found trying to do the larger wales 1.5 x 6 mm too difficult when using PVA glue and trying to keep them the correct distance from the other wales. I am now in the process of making a JIg for cutting 120mm strips for my decking. basically I have just modified my guillotine so I can quickly cut a lot of strips. I was thinking of trying to keep the colour uniform and using the lighter strips. I was also thinking of using the sand and sealer on the deck planks too. I might may some scap bits of decking strips and try the permanent marker on the edges and check it does not react with the sand & sealer before going with the model. Once the deck planking is complete I will then use the sand and sealer on everything before proceeding. I too have decided to go for the 4132 configuration. I will add some more photos when I get a chance. Best regards Dave
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Good morning Jerry. You just missed me before I went to bed but no problem early to bed early to rise. It must have been something to do with spending a life time as a sea going engineer . Anyway the accelerator sounds like just what I need. Unfortunately here in the uk we are in almost total lock down due to Covid 19 virus and all non assensial shops are closed . So it looks like ebay or Amazon. I should be able to get some pronto. I still think I need some practice in getting the right amount on. On my last model I used CA on anything fiddly and metal parts but again put on too much. However practice makes perfect so will persevere . Best regards Dave.
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Thanks Jerry. Is the eccelerator already mixed with the CA glue. The CA glue I use is 10 to 15 seconds and goes off OK. I never seem to get the right amount and I always seem to get it in areas I don,t want it and worry about staining surrounding areas. Can you just sand out areas rhat get stained. I do manage to get the wales to stick using PVA glue ,however I am finding much more difficult than the planking as there is nothing to butt the edge too and hold the plank in place. I may have to persevere with what I am doing, but would still like to get the hang of CA if I can, as I am sure it would be needed for other parts of the model later on in the build. Once again thank you for your help as it is really helpful to know I am doing ok. Best regards Dave
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Jerry Thanks for that it has just taken me all day to put on 8 wales. For some reason the last one gave me no end of trouble perhaps I should have left it for another day and quit while i am ahead.. However I have learnt a valuable lesson and that is CA and PVA don,t mix. Just wondering do you use CA on the wales and if so so you just do an inch at a time. Are you confident that the hold id strong enough. I am not sure what I am doing wrong but CA does not seem to work for me. I am wondering why. Apart from that snag all is on track for wales 4 & 5 tomorrow. Also I still need to maybe fill one or two larger gaps at the bottom of the stern post before using the sand and sealer. Your comments are much appreciated and I will keep you posted.
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Slot cut and files to take rudder and hull sanded ready for wales ( rubbing strakes) Commence fitting of wales. 3 on each side fitted then soaking wales 4 & 5 (1.5 mm x 6 mm) ready for bending tomorrow. Also fitted gun ports and attempted to get them square with each other. before fitting the wales. Fortunately I used the main drawing to get the distances between the wales as I just happen to be looking at the channels and where the go in relation to the wales and as far as I can see the channels are glued onto the second wale down and the brackets for the channels fit inbetween the first and second wales. At least thats what I hope. Phew just checked to see if the brackes can fit there and I have got away with that one.I needed a bit of luck.
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Jerry thanks for that. I pretty much did the what you you have just explained to the hull of my first model,however I did not wipe it off but allowed it to dry and then sanded it smooth. However it was not Minwax but a white modelling filler. The paint took ok but unfortunately the hull was to easly marked and when I used the masking tape for marking the water line and then removed the tape it brought off some of the paint and the filler. I will see if I can source the Minwax in the Uk and perhaps try this on my next model. This hobby can be very frustrating as there seems to be several different ways of doing just about every that we do. So thanks again Jerry and look forward to your input once again. Best regards Dave
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Sand & Sealer
DaveBaxt replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thank you for your input and confirming what I eventually begin to understand is the case with this model. Best regards Dave -
Sand & Sealer
DaveBaxt replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thanks Bradley for taking the time to look into that as I wasn,t sure whether or not I was going the right way. Best regards Dave -
Thanks Thunder for your input and kind words. It became increasingly difficult to keep the planks tight at the bow as I progressed and no matter how I tried, one or two gaps appeared especially where the planks were bent in two directions.However as I will be painting the lower half of the hull I think I can cheat a little bit and use some wood filler. If I was varnishing the hull I would try and use some saw dust and pva glue. Best regards Dave
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Thanks Jerry you have saved me more money I will have to send you some commission, only joking. I will heed your advice for the time being. The problem with the equipment I am using I have damaged the decking at one of the openings ( It will repair easy enough but its a bit annoying) Thanks for that regarding the planking. So the next step will be to fill any small gaps and to lightly sand. Then its onto the wales. Once those are complete I need to seal the hull. There is a product here in the uk called sand and sealer which is what the guy uses prior to painting in the Amati video . Is this the same stuff you mentioned earlier as if so I already have some. So I may as well try it. If not let me know what you use for next time and I will try and get some. Thanks again for helping me out .Best regards Dave
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Sand & Sealer
DaveBaxt replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thank you Bradley for your input and I can see what you are getting at. Fortunately I haven't done anything as yet. I have only just completed my second layer of planking and have not done anything as yet. So I will add the wales before using anything on the hull. Just for the record. The stuff I will be using is called sand and sealer. I will double check what it actually is. The guy in the Amati video used it on his hull but then used CA to glue his wales.He does mention sanding the hull after adding the sand and sealer so maybe thats just his way of doing it. Best regards Dave -
Sand & Sealer
DaveBaxt replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Allan thanks again for your response and no doubt you more than likely be correct. I notice also that the guy in the video used CA rather than PVA and also did not pre bend the wales prior to the gluing them so would that mean there could be more chance of them coming away at a later date. Best regards Dave -
Phew! second layer of planking complete. Unfortuately It did not turn out as well as it should the main problem was where the planks lay next to the rudder post . Perhaps I should have spent more time preparing the first planking in this area to ensure the planks lay flat . However as this area will be painted hopefully with some small pieces of filler I can salvage it. Also I struggled with some of the planks being as tight as I would have liked, esppecially at the bow section where the hull slopes in both direction. Here are a few examples of the finished planking
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Being a beginner I have not been doing a Rabbet but would like to try on my next model.
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Sand & Sealer
DaveBaxt replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I am currently working on the Bounty by Amati. The instructions say the wales are fitted after the 2nd planking is completed. There is also video produced for Amati. The guy on the video clearly shows him fitting them over the completed planking. However he does not show if another coat of sand & sealer is then done. Here is a link to the video and is about 4.5 minutes in. Hope this helps.Best regards Dave -
Seriously considering one of these . Now that some of you guys have been using this for a while,what do you think of them and are they worth the money.
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I am by no means an expert infact I have almost completed my first attempt at second walnut planking. After several approaches using elastic bands to hold the planks in postion the following for me was this,After tapering the planks and giving them a good soak I then shaped them using a heating iron ( soldering iron with a round head) on the model its self. I then used PVA glue (trade name speed bond) I then used the heat iron to dry the glue whilst I held the planks in postion . After reading several suggestions on MSW to use PVA rather than CA which I also tried. Anyway This method I found the easiest for me . Although not perfect I found this to be the easiest for me. Here are a couple of photos of my progress so far.
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How many coats is required. Do I need a second coat after installing the wales (rubbing strakes ) assuming I have already carried out a coat of sand & sealer before fitting the wales.
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Cheers Jerry you just save me some money,at least for the time being. I have just checked the width of the wales 4 & 5 and for two of them I make it 11 mm. I could use the 1x 5 which comes with the kit (4 lengths) but it is also needed for the hand rail around the bulwarks and the racks for the belaying pins but still think I will have enough. The 1 x 5 will be easier to fit than the 1.5 x 6 mm which I have lots left over from the first planking..I could not find any 1 x 6mm with the kit. Best regards Dave
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Thanks for clearing that up for me Jerry. By the way great picture of the how the shroud are attached to the vessel via the dead eyes and channels. The wire loops that go around the dead eyes then to links nailed to the hull, do they require soldering . The reason I ask is at the moment I do not possess such equipment. Is this necessary or will CA glue hold it?Just wondering if I need to get myself a soldering Iron and solder etc.Best Regards Dave
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Here is a photo copied from the instructions regarding the wales. Hopefully you can see clearly.how many there are. What is not clear is wales 4 & 5 . Here is a link to Amati video showing how the guy got around this problem.Look at just over 5.2 mins into the video. Perhaps Jerry when you counted 4 perhaps 4 & 5 looked like one? I think your photos show this is probably the case.I have listed the numbers of the wales which I got from the parts list. But 4 & 5 are clearly not 2 x2. Thanks for your input on the wales guys and think I will go for the 2 x 6 mm planking for wales 4 & 5. Also Jerry thanks for the input regarding the deck planking. I have a few permanent marker pens which I can test out and I get exactly what you mean. So once again thanks for your input which is much appreciated. Now for the interesting part of the second planking. I am not sure to go with trying to fit stealers or just go with wedges as I did in my first planking.
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