DaveBaxt

Thanks for that Pat, may I ask what size is the serving line for a scale of 1 to 60 or do we use the same size line as for seizing. I note that 0.25 is the smallest in the kit but I have bought a large spool of roughly half that ( very difficult to measure accurately)

Deck fittings completed including the dead eyes. I wasn,t too happy with the Brass wire for the chain plates but eventiually got the hang of getting a reasonable tight fit around the dead eyes . I also had to cut and re shape them to try and keep the bottom of the chain plates in line. I measured the hieght of the masts from the drawing and attached string to the cross trees where the shrouds would go. I then used this string to get the correct angle of the chain plates. Including the rake of the masts. I don,t think I will use this kind of chain plate again. Here is a few photos of the completed deck fittings and dead eyes. Now for the easy part the masts and rigging Haha.

Thanks for that BE and sorry for the delay in replying. Best regards Dave

So to be crystal clear is it a square knot a reef knot and is that the knot at the beginning and the end? Thank you for your input and prompt reply B.E. Best regards Dave

Is it necessary to carry out all three Worming ,parceling and Serving on model ships or do we generally just do the serving? Also when serving how do we start and end, do we us a knot or just a drop of glue? Sorry but again could not find what I am looking for in a search. Best regards Dave

Thankyou everyone for all your answers. There is a lots of information to digest which hopefully will continue to shine some loght. Thank you Allan for clearing that up regarding the swifter and the ratlines. No doubt I will have numerous additional questions as I proceed and If I may can add them to this forum. I would also like to thank Jim and Popeye too for their input all of which is helping me a great deal. Best regards Dave. Now to put it all into practice? Best regards Dave.

Allan Thanks once again for your replies Most of which I had to look up , although some of them I have heard of, I didn,t know what they are for, so I have had to do a little research to find out what they are. Neither the Burton pendants or the Breast back stays are shown on the Kit drawings.However the Swifter shrouds will be required as there are an odd number of shrouds on all the masts. So does that mean a splice for each port & stbd rather than a loop with a splice in the middle ie one line for both ? Hope this makes sense. There are two back stays for the fore and main mast and one for the mizzen and all have smaller dead eyes . I cannot see anything on the drawings regarding the Breast back stays I am assuming these are in line and outside of the shrouds. Does this mean the drawings are incorrect or have they omitted them for some reason or is that I just can,t find them? Hoping I am not getting mixed up. Best regards Dave

I have almost at the point of starting on the rigging and have been reading lots of conflicting information on how to go about this. As some of you have been helping me you already know I am building the Bounty by Amati and I have been following a set of videos for guidence but not always. I understand form what I have read both on line and in books it is the standing rigging to do first. However when breaking that down again is it the lower shrouds first then the forward stays or the other way around or does it not matter? I have also noticed on the Amati video just about everything is attached to the masts including the shrouds prior to fitting the masts to the ship.Now although this makes a bit of sense to me( easier access) it all looks a bit messy). On other videos and information I have received it is the opposite approach whereby the masts are fitted with the blocks etc, then the masts are fitted to the ship before the shrouds are fitted. Although I have what seems like a million more question I will ask one more if I may. Is the sprit mast the first mast to be fitted ,in order to fit the fore mast stays? Thank you again for all your help best regards Dave

Deck Furniture is almost complete and now thinking about the mast and rigging. When ever I have a few spare miniutes at the end of the day, instead of starting on something new I have been practicing different types of knots and then on to seizing a rope and also seizing a block to a spar or mast. I eventually made a break through and after following a number of videos eventually got the hang when using the larger of the thread sizes. However it did become more difficult as the thread sizes became smaller and the same colour. Also I found when using bees wax on the threadit became more difficult as the threads would stick together whilst seizing the thinner threads. I wonder if I am using the bees wax properly. There are also a couple of things that are on my mind regarding the standing rigging.There are only 3 sizes of black thread available in the kit 1.3 mm ,1 mm and 0.75 mm. It is pretty clear on the drawings what thread is used for where except for the wooldings. I would have thought that would be for the largest of the three, However as the 1.3 is also used for the stays and looks to be a limited amount( just loose and not on a spool) I am now wondering whether to use the 1.0 mm. If anyone would like to make any comments on the above please feel free to do so. I will update shortly with photos once the deck fittings is complete. Thank you.

Just finished the life/jolly boat ( sorry I don,t know the name of this boat ) and all ready to secure it to the deck .I am currently working on the HMS Bounty so only one boat on the Amati version. It basically needs tying down to the two cross beams which it sits on with wedges either side forward and aft. Is there any special way to do this and what knots to use? Best regards Dave Sorry guys I see this question has already been covered further down. Thanks anyway Best regards Dave

Cheers No Idea for all you have given me together with the help from everybody else. A lot to take in but thata what I like about the hobby.Best regards Dave

Thanks for all the information and I am sure it will be a great help. Also the links is just what I need .What sort of solder are you using ? Also I think for what I will be using it for I think the electric one will be fine for me together with your recommended flux. That should get me going at least. Best regards Dave

Take a look further down at a couple of ideas I have had. There both a bit pricey but look good. Perhaps you have a better idea ( I notice you quoted in sterling ) so anything in the UK that you think would work. Thanks again for you input.Best regards Dave

I do like the idea of the soldering torch and it seems you have some success if you know what you are doing .( I have had very little experience of brazing and soldering but over 35 years ago) Price will be a big factor as I have already spent about 5 times what my model cost on gear.Sadly , some I needed and some I didn't. . Thanks once again for your reply.Best regards Dave

Looks a great piece of kit. I am in the uk 230 v but could get an adaptor. There must be something similar over the pond , but thanks for giving me the idea of what I need. Here are a couple of ideas let me know what you think This one from RS componants is a https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/soldering-stations/1611962/?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-CSS_UK_EN_Power_Tools_%26_Soldering_%26_Welding_Whoop-_-Soldering+Stations_Whoop-_-1611962&matchtype=&aud-821594433763:pla-324976625914&gclid=CjwKCAiAmrOBBhA0EiwArn3mfEejenGV-ID8HW7AumaTSQ6X-HXNTp2OBVq0gLvV3kYZ3HYD1h4zeBoCfqUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.dsbit expensive but should be rliable coming from them Here is another cheaper option but think it might be from China https://www.amazon.co.uk/LONOVE-Soldering-Station-90°C-480°C-Temperature/dp/B08H1JXM2X/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?adgrpid=54018747315&dchild=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAmrOBBhA0EiwArn3mfA_ASaRLdv3bF98VehQ5SH0uXgmf4FDBepqxc-ac6J0SxNFnUlk1mxoCxBEQAvD_BwE&hvadid=259076404681&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1007202&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=10692710885630821129&hvtargid=kwd-21704086&hydadcr=28152_1752810&keywords=soldering+station&qid=1613634589&sr=8-1-spons&tag=googhydr-21&psc=1&smid=A1701LRVQHBWK4&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyWjBETEZKQ01UT0tSJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjMyMTI3MjFMRzNQNExESUpPRyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUExMDA2NzE3TDY1TUYzTUE2WUlLJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== Let me know what you guys think Best regards Dave

Cheers Allan for clearing this up for me. I have been watching a video on youtube which is very helpfull I think it might be one of yours ?

Thanks everyone for all your replys. I think I will probably end up soldering them. I like the idea of using the soldering paste. Does this kind of solder work with all types of solder iron or is it best used with a gas soldering iron.? Best regards Dave

Thanks everyone for some great answers. Regarding the gas powered soldering iron. I believe Dremel do one .Has anyone had experience with this. Think they are also on the expensive side so will have to way it up. Not sure if Rio Grande is hear in the uk but there will be something similar I am sure. Best regards Dave

First question . Do I need one, If I do what for? What sort of wattage is required and what else do I need ? ie type of solder, flux etc . I am currently on my second model but my first period ship The Bounty. I have been informed that this model by Amati does not require any soldering, however I think it would have made a better job than gluing the brass rings to the cannons.

A I haven't been very specific eye bolts then rings. Its the rings I am worried about. Cheers Dave

Although I am currently still a way off rigging. I have noticed the brass rings that secure the ropes to the deck are very soft and would not take much to open them up again as you do when attaching them to the copper eye pins. It has occurred to me do they need a drop of CA glue to prevent this or should the lines not be too taught to make this happen ? I do read on here though that some people do not like to use CA glue anywhere.

Several attempts at pin racks in the centre, The kit says 1 mm x 5 mm walnut but I kept splitting the wood when drilling . Eventually tried 1 mm ply and got away with that for the single pin rack as you can see in the photo. Unfortunately I did not have enough for the square pin rack that fits around the forward mast so have used 1.5 mm x 6 mm and used overlapping joints as in "Ship Modelling simplified" by Mastini.

Thanks guys for clearing that up. and I now see where you are coming from . If I can get my money back I will. Until then I will have to make do with a power drill and sand paper or perhaps a mini plane as I have one of them. I do have some spare dowel to practice on so hopefully I will be able get the hang of it at some stage.

Continued with deck fittings forward including the ratchet mechanism on the windlass and the windlass itself. All in all a very enjoyable part of the build especially after rigging the Cannons. After checking the diameter of the masts were what they should be it was necessary to remove material from the glands at the bottom where the mast go through the deck .Sorry I do not know what the name of this is. I am pretty much ready now for the Anchor rope from the forcastle to the hold. I also tried painting the windlass drum and give it a weathered look.

Thanks every one I clearly did not think this through properly. I also need to try this out and hope that as it is made by Dremmel, I should at least be able to use it for drilling. As regards the making of masts it was not my idea to hold the mast in the Demmel but to hold some kind of small rotary sanding tool and hold the mast in my hand. I suppose it would be just as well to hold the mast in an ordinary electric drill and use the Dremmel in your hand with one of Dremmel's sanding attachments.