DaveBaxt
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Not sure if this should be under tools or masts and rigging. AS the title says I am now the proud owner of a stand for my cordless dremmel in the hope it will make life easy when drilling those rails for the belaying pins. What I was delighted to see was that you can swing the stocck 90 degrees so the dDemmel is in the horizontal position. I am shortly approaching the time when I will be tapering the masts and spars and wondering if anyone uses their Dremmel to taper masts in some way and if so how do they achieve this? Just for the record I am starting with Walnut Dowel
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Thanks shipman for letting us know about that. Interesting to know if that happens even when unopened.
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I think we discussed this earlier and I ordered some liver of sulfur then which is before I ordered the Brass black I think I will have to chase up ebay. Should have been here before now. Thanks again for your input.
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Question regarding the base of the mast
DaveBaxt replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I Thanks Allan. I will check the diameter of the mast just in case they are bigger than 8mm as I have no idea. I only read something about reducing the mast diameter where it enters the deck Ship Modeling Simplified by Mastini but I think that was if the holes in the deck required drilling. For the record the mast were quite tight in the holes in the deck certainly after planking the deck so I filed out the holes in the deck to make a loose fit. Not slack so just hoping this would be ok. Best regards Dave -
John Thank you for your reply and sending that photo ( nice job by the way) That looks like its worked great on the painted area. Fortunately most of the areas I have done so far have been painted. I have started dipping all of my eye bolts and rings in Brass Black and it even works on the copper although takes a bit longer. I also found out that this stuff is pretty deadly on any tools that are not stainless steel. Shouldn't have used those pliers for lifting things out of the blacking solution.
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Question regarding the base of the mast
DaveBaxt replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Thanks for that Allan and I think I will make sure I have the required marerial before tackling the work. I will see if I can get my hands on some close grained wood for my next model. In the mean time I will probably go for the cast ring and just paint them. Do I need to file out the holes or can I just narrow the mast slightly to fit through the ring? I must thank you once again for all your help. I really do want to eventually do things the correct way but at present just want to continue with the basics and eventually get more involved with my second and hopefully more models of this type. Best regards Dave -
Question regarding the base of the mast
DaveBaxt replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Ok Alannanyed I get what you mean and I understand what everyone is telling me and I appreciate all the help and advice I have been given. So How to I make a ring large enough to fit over the mast without a lathe. Is this something I need to make out of a block of Walnut ( not supplied with the kit and do not have at hand) I still think as this is my first model of this kind and only my second model ever I am jn two minds whether or not to take the easy option and just try and get her built The guy in the Amati video just used the rings supplied in the kit and he had some pretty cool ideas and as far as I can see made a excellent job of building the Bounty. -
Question regarding the base of the mast
DaveBaxt replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Wonder why they didn't have some kind of gland with heavy greased packing rapped around the mast as that would be the easiest way to keep the water out .Pretty much how they had internal glands on shaft,valves etc. Just a thought but could br way off base. -
Question regarding the base of the mast
DaveBaxt replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Does using the wedges make it easier to step the masts. The rings are very ornate and although not acurate they kind of go with the Cannons. -
Sorry I don't know what the metal ring fitted to the deck where the mast goes through the deck. I am currently in the process of fitting everything to the deck ,working my way from aft to forward and from inside to outside. Before I go onto surrounding the areas such as more racks for the belaying pins I thought I would now add these mast rings as I think the access would be easier doing these now. The mast fits snug through the deck but is too tight on the mast and it will be necessary to taper the mast to fit into the ring. If I fit the ring now should I taper the mast first or can I do it later after the ring is fitted to the deck. Will fitting the ring now have any effect on stepping the mast later on.Hope this makes sense. Best regards Dave
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Including painting and correcting lots of mistakes and also left quite a few I have eventually completed the fitting and rigging of the cannons. Altogether it has probably taken me almost a week to completed. Today I have also moved onto the bilge pumps and capstan. I have also started blackening some of the brass work before fitting to try and make it a bit more realistic. Photos to follow.
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Gratings
DaveBaxt replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
This forum is absolutely amazing with some of the ideas. They might be obvious to some people and make a lot of sense. But I have to take my hat off to all of you. Thank you.Best regards Dave -
Gratings
DaveBaxt replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
worked a treat thanks shipman. All I need now is to find something that CA glue will not stick to. Any ideas? -
After 3 days working on the blocks and rigging for the Cannon I can actually see the light on at the end of the tunnel. All the work is completed off the ship and now ready to attach the ropes to the bulwarks. As the instructions say the attachment is actually on the bulwark and not the stantions .I think I will make pad eyes instead of eye bolts as I don,t want to accidently drill through the planking I will add another 1 mm so a total thickness of 3 mm before going through the otherside. I will cut the eye bolts to 2mm which should be long enough to be secure.I could just use the stantions next to the Cannons but this will give me very little room for the blocks. here is the work so far. Just for the record I wasted lots of blocks and tried several times to seize the ends onto the rings using black thread before I eventually got the hang of it but it has served me well so should make a better job of the larger blocks on the rigging. Any thought or comments would be welcome.
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Hello guys.What a coincidence I just ordered some of this the other day and just received this yesterday and have only just noticed this post. I have started fitting some blocks to the cannons and have already used some brass rings and copper eye pins. my question is can this stuff be added to parts which have already be fitted. I don,t mean the rigging just one or to places using a cotton bud stick. Would there be any staining to surrounding areas? Best regards Dave
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So no knot it is then .Just looped around. Thanks for a prompt reply.. Best regards Dave
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I have taken the plunge and decided to paintsthe cannons Iron black and the gun carriges yellow orcre as this the colour which came with the kit. I was also supplied red orcre but I believe is used on the carrages fn the Bounty but think this a bit dark for my needs .I thought I would try a bit of weathering by using some brown acrylic paint and applying using a very stiff brush with very littlle paint on itth the yellow orcre. I don,t believe it is perfect by any means but I am satisfied enough not to have regretted painting the cannons in the first place. I have also ordered some brass blackening for the numerous brass rings with the kit. Here is a photo of the completed paint job and looking at it closely I can see there are one or two places need touch up. Any comments would be appreciated. Best regards Dave
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I don't know the correct term fot the round thing at the back end of the Cannon but what is the correct knot tied around the ball to secure the cannon to the bulwarks.
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After much deliberation on whether to paint the cannons or not,in the end I decided to paint them. Also I have been reading the art of weathering the wood work but as yet I don't have any such kit so decided to try doing it by painting first using metal primer and then yellow orcre for the gun carrage and iron black for the cannons. I also used a brown similar to raw sienna for weathering. I also added a few touches of copper to the cannon badge or crest what ever it is called. I am not sure if this is in anyway authentic or even better than if I had left them int there origonal state. Here is the end product. I have now done about 50% of the blocks and have run out of them. I did not realise how many I ruined when trying to drill them or being satisfied . I also did about 4 with light thread and then decided I wanted the siezings to be dark. Fortunately I antisapated this and have some on order and hopefully will get them soon. In the mean time I can continue with the hatch comings and covers so will not be idle.
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Slight change of tack here. Regarding the use of copper wire to acheive that extra loop was a bit of a failure. I really couldn't get it to work somehow. Perhaps it was trying this on such small blocks. I also tried the above method of tying a loop and then just tying it to the block and then a drop of CA, This seemed to work betterat least for me it did. I intend to put all my make up all my blocks and thread it all together before gluing everything to the ship. Hope this is the best way forward.. In the meantime I thought about how I am going to paint the cannons and have been thinking about the weathering at would like to go down this route. However I was wondering about the carriages and wondered about weathering wood. I have done some water colours in the past and made a pretty good job of painting old boats and barns and harbour buildings and that sort of thing and with reasonable success. I know acrylic is not the same as watercolour but wondered if the same technique of wet in wet could not be applied to acrylic paint and then perhaps sealed some how. Just for the record anyone who has done water colours will know what wonderfull effects can be acheived by wet in wet . Sorry if this is going off the subject somewhat and your continued input would be much appreciated. Best regards Dave
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Its all beginning to make a bit of sense .Thanks for the links.
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I think if I paint these cannons, weathering sound like the way to go . Is this something I can achieve after I have painted them. Has any one got a direct link to Chuck's weathering techniques or any videos on how to go with this. I do think although not technically correct leaving the cannons as they are . I beleve they won,t look as good hand painting them. However I do want to learn and willing to try painting them. As said previously I have Iron black and red orchre acrylic paints available. I have also ordered some liver of Sulfur for blackening the copper wire. What other products do I need such as weathering the brass rings and cannon etc. Just wondering if I am taking this a bit far being my first ship and still need to learn the basics first, mainly the rigging.
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Thanks guys and lots of things to think about I do like the idea of quad hands and will no doubt end up getting one. Although at this time I am not to worried about authenticity I know I will regret it in the long run. The red ocre and iron black paint came with the kit so I have no excuses, I will try and make the best job I can, If I do I would like to have some highlights on the cannons so they are not all black. Thank you everyone for all your help.Best regards Dave.
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I like the sound of this john and will bare it in mind for the future. This is only my second model and finding there is so much to learn but what to do the best I can. At some stage I will want to learn all these new elements of the hobby such as using weathering products, air brushing and many more. It tuelly is an amazing hobby and can be as challenging as you want it too be. So thanks for your input john and definitely something else to luck forward to.Best regards Dave.
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That might be worth a try. Just a thought I am finding it very difficult to work with 2mm blocks, It must be an age thing. I am kind of hoping it will be easier to work with the copper wire. Probably all the wrong reasons but thought I would give it a go. Some of the blocks do not require this extra loop so do I still need to do them all for the cannons that is with copper wire or can I mix and match. Thank you for your input. Best regards Dave
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