DocBlake

Thanks for the comments, guys.  Jonathan:  I did compensate for the foreshortened view on the Hahn plans.  My problem is that I got the angle of the transom in reference to the counter wrong.  The transom should lead even further aft (from the vertical).  The result, had I done it, would have been a "shorter" transom with more of the quarterdeck bulwark planking above the level of the transom.  If I measure the Hahn plans, the distance from Frame #28 (Mamoli bulkhead 8) to the aftermost point on the transom is 6-5/8".  This is the length of the top quarterdeck bulwark plank.  On my model that distance is 6-5/16".  5/16" too short!  The only solution now (other than starting over!) is to cut down the height of the transom as I indicate in the drawing.  I'll have to make some adjustments also when I fit the quarterdeck deck clamps.

All the sweep ports have been installed.  I also installed the main rail and the planking above it on the port side.  It's starting to look like a ship!

All the sweep ports have been installed.  I also installed the main rail and the planking above it on the port side.  It's starting to look like a ship!

All the sweep ports have been installed.  I also installed the main rail and the planking above it on the port side.  It's starting to look like a ship!

All the sweep ports have been installed.  I also installed the main rail and the planking above it on the port side.  It's starting to look like a ship!

Very slow progress due to outdoor projects commissioned by the Admiral.  I've finished framing the gun ports in swiss pear.  Next up is cutting the oar sweeps.  I laid out the sweep ports and found that two of them fell directly on the kit bulkheads.  Not wanting to remove those bulkheads because the plywood is very hard and I need them for supporting the planking, I relocated  three of the sweep ports.  The last one aft was moved forward from where the Hahn plans call for by about 8 scale inches.  Port  #4 from the bow had to move the most: 2-1/2 scale feet aft.  Port #3 was moved 8" back.  I cut out little squares of pin striping tape and attached them to show the sweep locations.  Overall I think the placement is pleasing to the eye if not strictly correct according to Hahn's plans.

Progress so far:  The bulkheads and filler have been glued in place and the hull faired.  Any voids filled with wood filler.  I performed the major surgery on Bulkhead 12, removing it.  the counter has been formed, and the inside of the transom hollowed out.  Next is to place the external transom plywood.  Pictures show the counter ans the hollowed out transom wood.  Jonathan:  Did you do anything to the hollowed out area.  I'd like to panel it, or fit an upholstered bench across the span, as might have been done in the real vessel.
 
Dave

I've been studying the practicum and the Hahn plans, and I finally couldn't stand it any more.  I had to cut some wood!  So I built the new stem and cut out the stern post.  The center keel contains the stem, true keel and stern post.  When glued up, these will be removed by cutting along the rabbet line.  The two photos show the rabbet line.  The practicum calls for transferring the bearding line from th Hahn plans to the center keel.  Where is the bearding line on the Hahn plans?  I'm stumped!
 
Dave

I'm just finishing up the rigging on my Armed Virginia Sloop   For my next project I plan to build  a kit-bashed version of the Mamoli "Rattlesnake" based on the Lauck Street practicum.  I'm starting to do some research and prep work now.  This will be my build log.  
   
 
I plan to show some exposed frames on the starboard side as well as all the other mods Bob has added in his practicum.  I do not anticipate fully rigging the ship, either leaving stub masts, admiralty style, or finish the masts up to the tops.  
 
   
 
I have the Mamoli kit and the Hobby Mill wood package.  Today I had the Hahn plans reduced to 74%.  Two copies cost $35 at Fed Ex/Kinko's.  I hope to begin posting progress soon.  
 
   
 
Dave  
 

 

I'm finally finished with my AVS!
 
Dave

Currently building an AVS.  Here is my progress so far.  The cannons are just sitting on the deck.  I'm working on the rigging right now.  I even added a skylight to the cabin roof!
 
Dave

Progress in my AVS build to date.  I'm using wood, no paint.  Cherry, blood wood, rosewood, yellow heart , walnut, holly, boxwood and African black wood.  Next step is rigging the cannons.
 
Dave

I'm finally finished with my AVS!
 
Dave

Almost finished.   Only the anchors left to rig.  I was concerned that my rope coils at the bow were too long, but if I made them shorter, I couldn't get them to bend and lay naturally.  They "stuck out" almost straight from the rail.  I added a shot of a 5'6" sailor standing nearby.  i don't think the scale is terrible.  Any thoughts? I think the riding bit rope coils look OK.
 
I read about a technique using shrink wrap tubing on models for straps, bands etc.  I tried it on my anchors and it worked great.  Just cut to the right width, slide the resulting rings onto  the anchor stock in their proper positions and head in a 300 degree oven for about 3 minutes,  The tubing comes in various sizes and is cheap.  Another great use would be the iron reinforcement rings on the mast.  
 
I'll post finished shots when the anchors are rigged.
 
Dave
 
BTW:  Anyone have a good technique for getting rid of the "fuzzies", especially on the tan rigging?  Dilute white glue?

Nearing the end.  Only two yards to rig and the anchors to finish!  The stern shot is the only one with the rudder fitted. 
 
Dave

I'm finally finished with my AVS!
 
Dave

My modeling empire is rapidly consuming a larger and larger share of our home.  In order to placate the Admiral, I named the AVS after her.  I also added a nameplate that includes her Virginia home port.  Her name is Elizabeth, but that wouldn't fit on the transom along with Norfolk!
 
Dave

Currently building an AVS.  Here is my progress so far.  The cannons are just sitting on the deck.  I'm working on the rigging right now.  I even added a skylight to the cabin roof!
 
Dave

Progress in my AVS build to date.  I'm using wood, no paint.  Cherry, blood wood, rosewood, yellow heart , walnut, holly, boxwood and African black wood.  Next step is rigging the cannons.
 
Dave

Thanks once again for all the kind words folks and to all those who hit the "like" button.
 
The Main Hatch
 
The main hatch was a fairly simple construction using Redheart for the Coamings and Head Ledges, and Walnut for the Hatch Cover Boards. Templates were made from the drawings to assist with the lap joints and round up. Once the timber components of the hatch had been completed, two coats of Wipe-On Poly were applied to the Hatch, the Mortar Pit Housing and the deck frames on the Starboard side (which will not be planked).
 
Lifting rings for both Mortar Pit Housing and the Main Hatch were made from brass wire formed around a drill bit, cut off with a rotary cutting disc and then soldered closed (I cheated and used a lead/tin soft solder).  These were blackened chemically using a new (for me) product called Jax Pewter Black.  Its claim is that it blackens all sorts of metals, including solder.  After a bit of experimentation, I settled on diluting the solution 50/50 with distilled water, and after the usual cleaning process with vinegar and acetone beforehand, it seems to work fairly well. The same process was used to install lifting rings in the mortar pit housing.
 
The Waterways were next to be tackled.  These are made from boxwood and have two angled faces on the top side, which are not even.  I thought about how to mill these for quite some time. After a tip from Danny, I tried to follow his technique of making a scraper from an old exacto chisel blade. Although I managed to make a reasonable shape for one angle, I couldn’t get an edge on it sufficient to scrape the timber.  After some more thought, I marked out the profile along the length of the timber, and then used a couple of very small planes – one Veritas squirrel tail palm plane, and one even smaller Japanese finger plane. These worked a treat and the job turned out to be much easier than I had expected.
 
Here’s a couple of pictures showing the current state of play.
 

 

 
 
 

I'm currently starting a Lauck Street true POF kit build of an Armed Virginia Sloop of 1768,  I'd like to include the stove, but the Brodie stove didn't begin to be used until about 1781.  Does anyone have a link to photos or plans of ship's stoves predating the Brodie?  If not, I'll go with the Brodie, accuracy be damned!  Thanks for the links, BTW.

Fantastic work!  The detail is awesome.

I thought I would give an update on the Eagle since it has been awhile since I did. I have pretty much completed the berth deck. There is still some additional furniture to add to the officers cabins, but other than that it is done. The 
three photos below show the sail bin. 









Next are the table and benches for the ward room. The map is a preproduction of a 1776 survey map done of the lake.











The captain's cabin shown here. Later I removed the writing table for a simpler one and bench. The furnishings are the bed, chest of drawers and water basin stand, sea chest, and writing table and bench. The beds are all carved from maple and painted to look like straw mattresses.






After these were done I started working on the barrels. I made two sizes, a few puncheons and a dozen hogsheads. These were based on the standard barrel measurements. I made these by turning a length of maple into the shapes. After cutting these apart I used the easychuck to hold them while a flattened and cut the inner top recesses. I cut the stave marks by holding these up to the scroll saw blade and the micro chisels to cut the tops. I painted these black then wiped and buffed them dry. Then a quick staining. After these dried I used the pin striping material and made the hoops. 

I placed these temporarily around the ship to see how they worked. I will glue these in just before I plank the main deck.



The letter on the captain's writing desk is a reproduction of a letter from Captain MacDonough from the Navy Archives.







I then turned my attention to the rudder. Dr. Crisman states that much care was taken in shaping the deadwood. I used the profiles from his book to shape the rudder. The pintle and gudgeons were made with brass.








I planked the stern inside and out. I have cut the holes for the spikes. These will be the equivalent of ¾" spike heads. I completed installing the spikes in the upper outside of the stern. The holes are all drilled and the pins cut. Tomorrow I should complete these installation of these. Then I plan on working on the main deck beams and waterway.









So that is where she stands tonight. I am pleased with how she is coming along. I still need to decide how much of the main deck I want to plank. I would like to have cannon on both sides, but that means more deck covered. I will decide this after the beams are installed.

The workbench is in the current Woodsmith #219 June/July 2015.  The slant-front cart is a free download.  Try this link: http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/411/slant-front-tool-cart.pdf
 
If it doesn't work, google slant-front cart and go to the Woodsmith website.  All you need to do is subscribe to free email tips by entering your email address and you can download the plans.

Nice job!  A SketchUp model would be very cool to have. 
 
I'm building a storage cart for parts from Woodsmith plans.  This is to help organize the clutter around my work area.  What I'd like to do after that is build the hobby bench featured in the current edition of Woodsmith Magazine, Here are some photos of the storage cabinet and the workbench