DocBlake

Looking good, Mike!

Settee
The settee was built next. The construction is fairly simple. This is a few photos of the assembly.



 

Poop Deck
The poop deck clamps were installed next.
The deck framing was constructed in three sections to allow viewing of the great cabin interior.
The bulkhead break was assembled and set in place to verify elevations.
Progress photos:
 

Great progress, Mike.  She’s looking good!

Awesome work, Mike!

Awesome work, Mike!

Great Cabin Floor.
This post shows the placement of the mast step, interior lining of the stern timbers and placement of the great cabin floor. The floor has not been attached to the deck clamps until the support columns art in place.
Progress photos:

Kellson & Waterway Limber Boards.
The keelson was soaked in hot water and bent to fit the curvature of the frames. I used glue and brass wire pins to secure the keelson to the frames. The limber boards were soaked in hot water and clamped to the keelson to dry. When dry I used spacers between them and the keelson and glued and pined them in place.
 

So you say you want to work with wood?  All risk is relative!  This list will turn your hair white!
 
https://www.mountainwoodworker.com/articles/toxic_woods.pdf

I finished beveling all the frame parts from 25 through 36.  I will probably have to wait until the aft section is glued up to fit frame 36A because of the changes made when the prototype was being build.  Here are some shots of frames 31 through 36, stacked up but not glued.  You can see the lines of the hull taking shape,
 
 
 

I finished beveling all the frame parts from 25 through 36.  I will probably have to wait until the aft section is glued up to fit frame 36A because of the changes made when the prototype was being build.  Here are some shots of frames 31 through 36, stacked up but not glued.  You can see the lines of the hull taking shape,
 
 
 

Thanks for looking in, guys!
I began the actual construction of the model by assembling frame 25.  This is the fore-most of the frames and the only one whose cross section is visible.  Originally designed with butt joints, these were changed to scarf joints which more accurately reflect shipbuilding conventions of the time.  I enhanced the scarfs with a little flat black acrylic paint.
The bevels on frame 25 are infinitesimal.  I didn't pre-bevel the parts.  That can easily be done after the hull is glued together.
Next came frame 25A.  The bevels on the top timbers especially are very subtle.  Oddly, these small adjustments are harder than the big angles we'll encounter further aft.  I used a Dremel with a 1/2" drum and coarse sand paper.  The problem here is that in forming the bevel. it's easy to take too much off near and up to the the non-beveled edge, making a rounded surface.  To prevent that I put some painters tape on the final 3/16" of the surface I was sanding which warned me to be careful not to "round over" the surface.  It worked well.  As you can see, the bevel came right up to the unbeveled edge without actually crossing it.  Laser char can work the same way. 
 
 
 

Royal Yacht HMY Fubbs (1682-1781) – 1:24 Scale Stern Section by DocBlake
  This will be my build log for a 1:24 scale stern section of the HMY Fubbs.  Fubbs was one of many Royal Yachts commissioned by King Charles II of England during the Stuart Restoration.  The name derives from a nickname Charles had for his mistress, the Duchess of Portsmouth.  Details of her history and drawings of the kit plans and contents can be found elsewhere.  The reader is directed to build logs by Mike41 (https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34926-hmy-fubbs-1682-by-mike-41-weasel-works-%E2%80%93-stern-section-%E2%80%93-124/#comment-996763     
The model will be built as a limited edition kit produced by Weasel Works.  In all there were 10 kits and Mike Shanks' prototype produced.   There are over 900 parts in each kit, with some options for personalizing the builds (such as choice of timber for framing, etc.)  Even with all the frame parts removed from their billets to save shipping costs, my kit weighed in at 13 pounds!
Weasel Works a group of modelers with different interests and skills  We are not a business at all.  We are exploring what modern technology can bring to the table in model ship building.
There are ten kits produced, as well as Mike Shank's prototype.  We have no plans to sell or produce any more.
Our goal is to produce an attractive model that's fun to build.  We are not historians nor naval architects, and accordingly, have allowed ourselves some artistic license.  Although based on the 1682 version of Fubbs, details from other points in her history have been incorporated into the model, and her framing is not historically accurate, but does reflect well her hull's shape.  Although the Great Cabin's floor cover was most probably painted canvas, we felt the parquet floor was a nice addition to the model, so we kept it in. The transom/taffrail design is from later in her career.
 
My frames are hard maple, cut out by CNC.  Advantage:  No laser char.  Disadvantage: bevel lines not etched for the bevel, so each piece requires a template to be carefully cut out and rubber cemented to the frame piece, then bevelled then cleaned of residual paper and cement.  Mind numbing.  There are over 100 frame parts.        
 

I finished beveling all the frame parts from 25 through 36.  I will probably have to wait until the aft section is glued up to fit frame 36A because of the changes made when the prototype was being build.  Here are some shots of frames 31 through 36, stacked up but not glued.  You can see the lines of the hull taking shape,
 
 
 

I finished beveling all the frame parts from 25 through 36.  I will probably have to wait until the aft section is glued up to fit frame 36A because of the changes made when the prototype was being build.  Here are some shots of frames 31 through 36, stacked up but not glued.  You can see the lines of the hull taking shape,
 
 
 

I finished beveling all the frame parts from 25 through 36.  I will probably have to wait until the aft section is glued up to fit frame 36A because of the changes made when the prototype was being build.  Here are some shots of frames 31 through 36, stacked up but not glued.  You can see the lines of the hull taking shape,
 
 
 

Looking good, Mike!

The Stern Framing continued.
These photos show the planking of the stern and finished framing.

The Stern Framing continued.
This is a few more progress photos of the stern.
 

Thanks for looking in, guys!
I began the actual construction of the model by assembling frame 25.  This is the fore-most of the frames and the only one whose cross section is visible.  Originally designed with butt joints, these were changed to scarf joints which more accurately reflect shipbuilding conventions of the time.  I enhanced the scarfs with a little flat black acrylic paint.
The bevels on frame 25 are infinitesimal.  I didn't pre-bevel the parts.  That can easily be done after the hull is glued together.
Next came frame 25A.  The bevels on the top timbers especially are very subtle.  Oddly, these small adjustments are harder than the big angles we'll encounter further aft.  I used a Dremel with a 1/2" drum and coarse sand paper.  The problem here is that in forming the bevel. it's easy to take too much off near and up to the the non-beveled edge, making a rounded surface.  To prevent that I put some painters tape on the final 3/16" of the surface I was sanding which warned me to be careful not to "round over" the surface.  It worked well.  As you can see, the bevel came right up to the unbeveled edge without actually crossing it.  Laser char can work the same way. 
 
 
 

Royal Yacht HMY Fubbs (1682-1781) – 1:24 Scale Stern Section by DocBlake
  This will be my build log for a 1:24 scale stern section of the HMY Fubbs.  Fubbs was one of many Royal Yachts commissioned by King Charles II of England during the Stuart Restoration.  The name derives from a nickname Charles had for his mistress, the Duchess of Portsmouth.  Details of her history and drawings of the kit plans and contents can be found elsewhere.  The reader is directed to build logs by Mike41 (https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34926-hmy-fubbs-1682-by-mike-41-weasel-works-%E2%80%93-stern-section-%E2%80%93-124/#comment-996763     
The model will be built as a limited edition kit produced by Weasel Works.  In all there were 10 kits and Mike Shanks' prototype produced.   There are over 900 parts in each kit, with some options for personalizing the builds (such as choice of timber for framing, etc.)  Even with all the frame parts removed from their billets to save shipping costs, my kit weighed in at 13 pounds!
Weasel Works a group of modelers with different interests and skills  We are not a business at all.  We are exploring what modern technology can bring to the table in model ship building.
There are ten kits produced, as well as Mike Shank's prototype.  We have no plans to sell or produce any more.
Our goal is to produce an attractive model that's fun to build.  We are not historians nor naval architects, and accordingly, have allowed ourselves some artistic license.  Although based on the 1682 version of Fubbs, details from other points in her history have been incorporated into the model, and her framing is not historically accurate, but does reflect well her hull's shape.  Although the Great Cabin's floor cover was most probably painted canvas, we felt the parquet floor was a nice addition to the model, so we kept it in. The transom/taffrail design is from later in her career.
 
My frames are hard maple, cut out by CNC.  Advantage:  No laser char.  Disadvantage: bevel lines not etched for the bevel, so each piece requires a template to be carefully cut out and rubber cemented to the frame piece, then bevelled then cleaned of residual paper and cement.  Mind numbing.  There are over 100 frame parts.        
 

Thanks for looking in, guys!
I began the actual construction of the model by assembling frame 25.  This is the fore-most of the frames and the only one whose cross section is visible.  Originally designed with butt joints, these were changed to scarf joints which more accurately reflect shipbuilding conventions of the time.  I enhanced the scarfs with a little flat black acrylic paint.
The bevels on frame 25 are infinitesimal.  I didn't pre-bevel the parts.  That can easily be done after the hull is glued together.
Next came frame 25A.  The bevels on the top timbers especially are very subtle.  Oddly, these small adjustments are harder than the big angles we'll encounter further aft.  I used a Dremel with a 1/2" drum and coarse sand paper.  The problem here is that in forming the bevel. it's easy to take too much off near and up to the the non-beveled edge, making a rounded surface.  To prevent that I put some painters tape on the final 3/16" of the surface I was sanding which warned me to be careful not to "round over" the surface.  It worked well.  As you can see, the bevel came right up to the unbeveled edge without actually crossing it.  Laser char can work the same way. 
 
 
 

Thanks for looking in, guys!
I began the actual construction of the model by assembling frame 25.  This is the fore-most of the frames and the only one whose cross section is visible.  Originally designed with butt joints, these were changed to scarf joints which more accurately reflect shipbuilding conventions of the time.  I enhanced the scarfs with a little flat black acrylic paint.
The bevels on frame 25 are infinitesimal.  I didn't pre-bevel the parts.  That can easily be done after the hull is glued together.
Next came frame 25A.  The bevels on the top timbers especially are very subtle.  Oddly, these small adjustments are harder than the big angles we'll encounter further aft.  I used a Dremel with a 1/2" drum and coarse sand paper.  The problem here is that in forming the bevel. it's easy to take too much off near and up to the the non-beveled edge, making a rounded surface.  To prevent that I put some painters tape on the final 3/16" of the surface I was sanding which warned me to be careful not to "round over" the surface.  It worked well.  As you can see, the bevel came right up to the unbeveled edge without actually crossing it.  Laser char can work the same way. 
 
 
 

Royal Yacht HMY Fubbs (1682-1781) – 1:24 Scale Stern Section by DocBlake
  This will be my build log for a 1:24 scale stern section of the HMY Fubbs.  Fubbs was one of many Royal Yachts commissioned by King Charles II of England during the Stuart Restoration.  The name derives from a nickname Charles had for his mistress, the Duchess of Portsmouth.  Details of her history and drawings of the kit plans and contents can be found elsewhere.  The reader is directed to build logs by Mike41 (https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34926-hmy-fubbs-1682-by-mike-41-weasel-works-%E2%80%93-stern-section-%E2%80%93-124/#comment-996763     
The model will be built as a limited edition kit produced by Weasel Works.  In all there were 10 kits and Mike Shanks' prototype produced.   There are over 900 parts in each kit, with some options for personalizing the builds (such as choice of timber for framing, etc.)  Even with all the frame parts removed from their billets to save shipping costs, my kit weighed in at 13 pounds!
Weasel Works a group of modelers with different interests and skills  We are not a business at all.  We are exploring what modern technology can bring to the table in model ship building.
There are ten kits produced, as well as Mike Shank's prototype.  We have no plans to sell or produce any more.
Our goal is to produce an attractive model that's fun to build.  We are not historians nor naval architects, and accordingly, have allowed ourselves some artistic license.  Although based on the 1682 version of Fubbs, details from other points in her history have been incorporated into the model, and her framing is not historically accurate, but does reflect well her hull's shape.  Although the Great Cabin's floor cover was most probably painted canvas, we felt the parquet floor was a nice addition to the model, so we kept it in. The transom/taffrail design is from later in her career.
 
My frames are hard maple, cut out by CNC.  Advantage:  No laser char.  Disadvantage: bevel lines not etched for the bevel, so each piece requires a template to be carefully cut out and rubber cemented to the frame piece, then bevelled then cleaned of residual paper and cement.  Mind numbing.  There are over 100 frame parts.        
 

Royal Yacht HMY Fubbs (1682-1781) – 1:24 Scale Stern Section by DocBlake
  This will be my build log for a 1:24 scale stern section of the HMY Fubbs.  Fubbs was one of many Royal Yachts commissioned by King Charles II of England during the Stuart Restoration.  The name derives from a nickname Charles had for his mistress, the Duchess of Portsmouth.  Details of her history and drawings of the kit plans and contents can be found elsewhere.  The reader is directed to build logs by Mike41 (https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34926-hmy-fubbs-1682-by-mike-41-weasel-works-%E2%80%93-stern-section-%E2%80%93-124/#comment-996763     
The model will be built as a limited edition kit produced by Weasel Works.  In all there were 10 kits and Mike Shanks' prototype produced.   There are over 900 parts in each kit, with some options for personalizing the builds (such as choice of timber for framing, etc.)  Even with all the frame parts removed from their billets to save shipping costs, my kit weighed in at 13 pounds!
Weasel Works a group of modelers with different interests and skills  We are not a business at all.  We are exploring what modern technology can bring to the table in model ship building.
There are ten kits produced, as well as Mike Shank's prototype.  We have no plans to sell or produce any more.
Our goal is to produce an attractive model that's fun to build.  We are not historians nor naval architects, and accordingly, have allowed ourselves some artistic license.  Although based on the 1682 version of Fubbs, details from other points in her history have been incorporated into the model, and her framing is not historically accurate, but does reflect well her hull's shape.  Although the Great Cabin's floor cover was most probably painted canvas, we felt the parquet floor was a nice addition to the model, so we kept it in. The transom/taffrail design is from later in her career.
 
My frames are hard maple, cut out by CNC.  Advantage:  No laser char.  Disadvantage: bevel lines not etched for the bevel, so each piece requires a template to be carefully cut out and rubber cemented to the frame piece, then bevelled then cleaned of residual paper and cement.  Mind numbing.  There are over 100 frame parts.