Rock_From_Korea
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Positioning the deadeye chain plates required ad hoc rigging to each masts as the angles of the chain plate fixing point on the hull need to be aligned with the rigging itself.
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For the chainplate, I used more accurate contemporary design (hopefully!) that applies multiple elongated chains (in my case 2) hooked up with deadeye part and a long nail like feature to fasten through the hull. Finished piece soldered and chemically blackened.
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Hello shipmates! Work continued on channels through long holiday weekends here in Korea - thus had more time to spend on GH1. I decided to finish upto the deadeyes installment on the channels for this particular work phase. As for the deadeyes, although the historically accurate form would be a triangular shaped deadeye, I could not figure out a way to mass produce triangular shaped deadeyes given the limited tools available to me. Therefore, I made a painful decision to go for a round shaped deadeyes instead. Once again, I used part of the dowel shaped material from the broken wooden hanger as well as other hard wood dowels available to me for the deadeyes. I tried using soft wood first, but these broke quite easily. Below are pictures of the above works. Channel installments finshed. Moving on to deadeye production. Using IKEA drill for shaping the initial outlines of a round deadeye - about 7mm in diameter. Once sanded with fine grained sandpapers, the deadeyes are dyied with dark wood dye.
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Mizzen mast channels done and moved on to the knees. I had compared different type of woods and variable thickness for the knees. In the end, I chose to stick with the broken wooden hanger and also reduced the thickness of knees to 3 mm. Nothing glued yet, everything put in place using small brass nails.
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More pictures on channel works as below. I am quite satisfied with the quality of the wood salvaged from a broken wood hanger. I mean even the slight difference in texture and color (from the rest of the ship) makes this recycled material so suitable~ Foremast channels done and moving on to main mast channels.
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Hello all~ Finished securing the cathead in place - still contemplating if I should add a bit more decorative items to the cathead, e.g. small decorative sculpture etc. I will come back later on these additional works should I decide to do a bit more. In the meantime, work continued with the channels. Once again, the broken wooden hanger is becoming quite useful - I definitely have not envisaged this much utility from a broken wooden hanger. I am regretting now on just throwing away couple of these wooden hangers before! Below are some pictures of the above work and preparations.
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Additional work on the cathead and work in the knee for the cathead are included below. Positioning of the knee and cathead tried out and secured - nothing glued yet as there are additional works remaining.
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Hello shipmates~ Now back to GH1 prototype… I started working on the cathead. After some consideration, I decided to go for the simplest design - after all this is a 16th century galleon which probably did not employ a lot of delicate designs anyway. The wood for cathead is procured from a broken wooden hanger. Below are pictures of initial works on the cathead. Assessing and trying out position of the catheads. I needed to make 3 pulley points - 2 for anchor lift and 1 for anchor securing line. Given the small width of the cathead, I decided to mimic the pulley area as below.
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Thanks very much, Patrick!
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Hello All, We had a long weekend here in Korea and I was able to finish basic planking work of the weatherdeck level in GH2. I have more or less implemented new methods that I wanted to try out on GH2 and thus, after this posting, I will go back to GH1 and carry on from where I left off. Below are some pictures at the end of this round of works on GH2 and a comparison picture of GH1 & GH2 at the last section.
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Hi All, I have decided to post some additional updates on GH2 after Robert’s suggestion and encouragement. Also, as both GH1 and GH2 will be given away as presents to my dear friends after completion, it would make sense to have as much build log record as possible. The below are pictures of the progress I achieved during the weekend using my iPhone 6 - yes, yes… I am not upto date on the newest technology development… but it still works fine! Regards, Rock Beakhead work in progress - I have increased the upward slope of the beakhead by 3-4 degrees compared to the original Aeropiccola plans. I am not sure if this slight upward adjustment would be enough, but if not I may readjust for GH3. This time on GH2, I managed to put in tree nails on the beakhead deck planks. Also experienting on the planking method of the beakhead area.
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Hi Robert, Thanks very much for your advice and kind words. Unfortunately, I did not take many pictures of GH2 during its construction, just couple of photos after reaching certain stages of the construction. As I am building GH1 and GH2 pretty much in tandem, it would be somewhat confusing (even for myself) to manage pictures of both and post them seperately. Nevertheless, I shall definitely take your advice into consideration and may take a bit more picture of GH2 - maybe using seperate cameras (GH2 with my iPhone just as posted in the above posting, and GH1 using my digital camera as it has been the case so far). Best regards, Rock
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Hello shipmate! I have been tinkering with GH2 for the last 2 weeks - wanted to try out some different methods and approaches on it. I am posting just couple of pictures of end results as I am trying to refrain from posting too much of GH2 pictures on this post - want to focus in GH1 building log.
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The ladders for the forecastle are made and fixed in place. I think the basic deck work for the forecastle area are more or less done now.
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Hello everyone~ It is quite warm now in Korea - full-fledged spring now! I have done the finishing works on the forecastle area. During the process I realized that I may need some additional features (pulley features) in the halyard knighthead (the two smaller ones right and left of the main knighthead). I decided to experiment with a method that would mimick the pulley features in these. I think the end results are not bad. I may refine this 'mimicking' and apply later in other areas.
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Many thanks for your kind compliment, Ondras! Such compliment from a master modeler like yourself means a lot to me~
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Thank you very much for your encouragement, Pavel!
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Hi Patrick~ Thanks very much for your kind comments!
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Foremast done and moving to bowsprit, main mast. Took couple of pictures with foremast, bowsprit and main mast put in place.
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I decided to follow Aeropiccola plan on the halyard knighhead and the associated fixture. This design included 3 belaying pins on the left and right side of the knighthead. I decided to go along with this design as well. Also, I began working on the mast securing item (not sure what it is called) that secures the masts to the decks - beginning with the foremast.
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Hi All~ Work at the shipyard continues with halyard knighthead and the forecastle area. Also, work on the various mast positioning was done. First the pictures on final touches on the halyard knighthead and rails.
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Next, I started on building the halyard knighthead and rack. For this I needed a bigger hardwood (8mm x 8mm) and decommissioned hardwood chopsticks would not do. Fortunately, I found out that a broken wooden hanger is made of light coloured hardwood (don't know the wood type). I have cut one side of the wooden hanger by the required dimensions.
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For the building of belaying pins, I have utilized a thin bamboo stick used for my daughter's favorite snack (she uses fork instead and thus the surplus sticks at my home). Anyway, this bamboo stick is quite strong and sturdy despite the thinness and thus proved quite easy to make belaying pins with a simple modeler's knife and a small file. The end results are overall satisfactory, although I realized that there is lack of uniformity - something I do not think I can fix anytime soon (or ever, since these are all hand made!). Rocky inspecting ...and seems satisfied~
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Hi All, Continued working on the forecastle area - belaying pins, pin rack and halyard knighthead. First the pin rack rail is done - laminated hardwood sheets cut according to the contours of the rail and then laminated.
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Thanks very much, Alan! Still a long way to go~
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