Rock_From_Korea
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Finalizing the gun port works~ I decided to install the wrought iron guns for now as these will be difficult to install when the quarterdeck work begins. So, the demi-culverins will be installed at a later stage.
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I originally planned to put 2 kevels and one cleat on each side, but unfortunately there were not enough space for 2 kevels if later rigging and etc are considered - so, 2 cleats and 1 kevel on each side for GH1. I will definitely plan better from GH2 onwards so that the gun port spacing as well other structures in that area do not impede 2 kevel and 1 (or 2) cleats installment. I realized after glueing them that the cleats seem a bit big (actually, looks like giant cleats!) and probably off the correct scale. I may redo these later on. But, for now, I decided to leave it as is. Structures for gun port rigging are installed for all gun ports. All gun ports that feature open ports are rigged accordingly.
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Hello all~ Work continued on cannons, gun port rigging, kevels, cleats and etc. I decided to use both kevels and cleats in midship weather deck area. The cleats were first made from disposable bamboo chopsticks as in the below pictures (I think I am really evolving into ‘master’ or ‘champion’ of chopstick recycling). The end result is quite satisfactory - looks good and quite sturdy. For kevels, I used ordinary(?) hard wood in the most simplistic style.
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Thanks very much for your kind comment, Robert!
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I decided to try out a simple method for rigging the cannon doors - 2 short tooth pick on each side of the door top to handle the outer and inner ropes that are tied to the cannon door. First test rigging of the wrought iron cannon done.
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4 demi -culverins done and trying out positions. I decided to put the shorter demi- culverin near the ladder to the forecastle as there seems to be less space here than in the middle of the weather-deck. Cannon door rigging also started in couple of test cases.
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Hello shipmates~ The work on cannons is taking quite a long time! As I am implementing 2 different types of cannons (wrought iron cannons and demi-culverins), the research and prep time are almost double. Nonetheless, it is quite interesting work to deploy different types of cannons. I also plan to try different types of gun positions etc. Anyway, below are the works that have been carried out on the demi-culverins. I used a bit thicker tooth pick to make the handle of the angle adjuster.
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Hi All~ Just a small update on cannons. I managed to make 1 shorter wrought iron cannon(35 mm) and made finishing touches (varnishing and final mounting) on both the longer (39mm) and shorter guns. It seems that even the shorter one has little room to maneuver in the grating area. Therefore, I made preliminary tests using a demi-calverin, which looks more suitable for that specific area.
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Roter Löwe 1597 by Ondras71
Rock_From_Korea replied to Ondras71's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Absolutely fabulous work, Ondras! -
Hi Patrick~ Thanks very much for your valuable input and fantastic paper, much appreciated!! Also, what a relief to hear that you think the lengths are about right. As per your suggestion, I will probably apply different variations of wrought iron cannons. I may also try out demi-culverins in areas where there are not much room for these wrought iron guns. If I am not mistaken, Mary Rose wreck yielded a mixture of wrought iron cannons and demi-culverins. Thanks again for sharing your insightful opinion!!
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Fairly close now on more or less finishing 2 prototype (39mm long) wrought iron cannons for comparison and testing out on deck. The brass ring handles will be chemically blackened later on. The cannon wagon(?) has been dyed and the angle adjuster has been added at the rear. Satisfied on general look. But, I cannot shake the impression that the overall cannon length is somewhat long. I will need to test the shorter 35mm long barrels in the next work stream.
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Now moving on to making the wheels. I did not throw away the short (narrower) tips of the decommissioned chopsticks after using them for the forecastle area work. These scrap wood part are coming in handy for the axis of the wheels.
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Work progressing on wrought iron cannons…the rings (and the attachment band to the barrel) used as handle (for transporting the lower removable part and the main cannon barrel) was devised with thin brass wire, formed around the thinner carbon/aluminum composite bow shaft (slightly modified to hold 2 small rings on each side). For some reason, this particular work is progressing quite slowly with limited results (also quite painful on finger). I am not sure if I want to apply 3 sets per barrel for all wrought iron cannons. I will see how the cannons look with and without them and decide later. In the meantime, I would appreciate and be grateful for any suggestions for alternative approach on this particular work stream (limitation : I just have hand tools and a few small electric tools at my disposal). The overall look with a test wheel looks OK~
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Hi GrandpaPhil~ Thanks very much for your compliment! Your method of using tooth picks and paper bands also look nice and original.
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Now on to building cannons~! I have given much thought on what type of cannon to apply on my GH. After much consideration, I decided that wrought iron cannons (the likes of which were found on Mary Rose) should be the main guns to be placed on the weather deck. I have referenced various sources and decided to benchmark the below design. I have contemplated about various materials and methods of making the gun barrel. And finally, I decided to use decommissioned carbon/aluminum arrow shaft and carbon arrow shaft ( yes, I know it sounds weird… but olympic archery and Kendo are some of my other hobbies~). The above arrow shafts are hand picked for this task as they fall into the exact diameter specifications that I need for the right scale. First the smaller diameter (about 4mm) carbon/aluminum composite shaft are cut to 35mm and 39mm ( wanted to see which version would look better) Next step- the bigger diameter carbon arrow shaft is cut into about 1.5mm length and then put over the smaller diameter carbon/aluminum shaft as below. The above first prototype is based on 35mm length barrel. I think I may need to go for 39mm length. On the cannon carriage, I decided to try a soft wood first. Initial design looks OK overall, but I will definitely go for longer barrel. Also, more refinements are needed.
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Hello all~ The work on channels are finished with the dead eyes secured in place through additional thin strip applied on the outer edge of the channel. All fixtures glued and fixed in place.
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Hi Patrick~ Thanks very much for your kind words! As a matter of fact, I am (and my GH1 & GH2) big beneficiary of your Pelican build log and the extensive research you have carried out during your build. You probably noticed that the chains I applied to my GH1 is based (and benchmarking) on one of your research materials. Once again, many thanks for your contribution to MSW and fellow modelers!! Rock
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Positioning the deadeye chain plates required ad hoc rigging to each masts as the angles of the chain plate fixing point on the hull need to be aligned with the rigging itself.
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For the chainplate, I used more accurate contemporary design (hopefully!) that applies multiple elongated chains (in my case 2) hooked up with deadeye part and a long nail like feature to fasten through the hull. Finished piece soldered and chemically blackened.
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Hello shipmates! Work continued on channels through long holiday weekends here in Korea - thus had more time to spend on GH1. I decided to finish upto the deadeyes installment on the channels for this particular work phase. As for the deadeyes, although the historically accurate form would be a triangular shaped deadeye, I could not figure out a way to mass produce triangular shaped deadeyes given the limited tools available to me. Therefore, I made a painful decision to go for a round shaped deadeyes instead. Once again, I used part of the dowel shaped material from the broken wooden hanger as well as other hard wood dowels available to me for the deadeyes. I tried using soft wood first, but these broke quite easily. Below are pictures of the above works. Channel installments finshed. Moving on to deadeye production. Using IKEA drill for shaping the initial outlines of a round deadeye - about 7mm in diameter. Once sanded with fine grained sandpapers, the deadeyes are dyied with dark wood dye.
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Mizzen mast channels done and moved on to the knees. I had compared different type of woods and variable thickness for the knees. In the end, I chose to stick with the broken wooden hanger and also reduced the thickness of knees to 3 mm. Nothing glued yet, everything put in place using small brass nails.
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More pictures on channel works as below. I am quite satisfied with the quality of the wood salvaged from a broken wood hanger. I mean even the slight difference in texture and color (from the rest of the ship) makes this recycled material so suitable~ Foremast channels done and moving on to main mast channels.
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Hello all~ Finished securing the cathead in place - still contemplating if I should add a bit more decorative items to the cathead, e.g. small decorative sculpture etc. I will come back later on these additional works should I decide to do a bit more. In the meantime, work continued with the channels. Once again, the broken wooden hanger is becoming quite useful - I definitely have not envisaged this much utility from a broken wooden hanger. I am regretting now on just throwing away couple of these wooden hangers before! Below are some pictures of the above work and preparations.
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Additional work on the cathead and work in the knee for the cathead are included below. Positioning of the knee and cathead tried out and secured - nothing glued yet as there are additional works remaining.
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Hello shipmates~ Now back to GH1 prototype… I started working on the cathead. After some consideration, I decided to go for the simplest design - after all this is a 16th century galleon which probably did not employ a lot of delicate designs anyway. The wood for cathead is procured from a broken wooden hanger. Below are pictures of initial works on the cathead. Assessing and trying out position of the catheads. I needed to make 3 pulley points - 2 for anchor lift and 1 for anchor securing line. Given the small width of the cathead, I decided to mimic the pulley area as below.
Our Emblem ®
