Rock_From_Korea

Hello shipmates~! Work continues on the upper hull planking. Again, laminated (4 layers) sheets of hard wood strips are used for the upper hull wales as below.

Hi Tony, Thanks very much for your encouragement! The thinnest planks that I am using are 1.5 mm, remnants of my previous builds (kits). The ones (cyprus) that I have worked manually with some small electric tools as well as processed en mass in an wood working shop couple of months ago are about 2mm thick (between 1.8 mm to 2.2 mm). The hard wood second planking materials are below 1mm (0.5 to 0.7 mm I think) in thickness - I managed to get these hardwood sheets in a wood work shop outside Seoul. At first, I could not find a wood work shop in Seoul and therefore I came up with a makeshift table saw with a bigger hand drill (not the one in the picture). But, at some point it broke down (probably too much load for a hand drill) and I had to make another one with a smaller drill (the one in the picture : correction - the drill platform is there, but the small drill itself seems to have been stowed away at thetime of this picture)- works fine for a thin strip of 1 to 2 mm (soft wood) and upto 1.5mm in hard woods. I managed somehow for a while, but located a wood work shop outside of Seoul that could provide me with couple of hours machine time. I think I processed about 70% of the cyprus logs that were idling at my home on one go. Also, couple of months ago, I purchased a small electric saw (Dremel Moto-saw) with low noise level that could be used in an apartment. Please see the attached picture - it is in the balcony of my study at the farthest point of my apartment. Relatively low noise, but I only choose to work on it briefly in day time only as the noise level is still quite high to be used in apartment in Korea. Anyway, it is fantastic! I am getting much help from this small but versatile machine. Hope the above clears some of your questions. Best regards, Rock

Finishing the basic planking. Rocky inspecting~

Finally fixing the aftcastle structure in place before proceeding the planking on the highest point of the aftcastle. Also, work on the inside of the upper hull carried out.

Hi All, I have begun to work on the upper hull planking in earnest. Once again, as I am quite short on hard wood strips, I am trying out the laminated hardwood sheets (4 layers) to see how they look overall as railings and upper hull wales. So far, they look fine but I will keep on looking for hard woods to make suitable strips and etc. Below are pictures on the main weather deck railing and some reinforcement structures on the lower hull as well as the initial upper deck hull work on both forecastle side and quarterdeck/aftcastle side.

Working on the inside wall further aft- although most of this section cannot be seen, I decided to do some work anyway. The doors will be done as fake doors.

Hello shipmates~ Small updates....I can only manage to spend some limited time time during weekends these days. After consulting with fellow MSW members through another topic, I have decided to render the aft side of the weather-deck opening in a style that would be almost open. Below are some pictures of the initial work. Laminating thin sheets to form the basis of the entrance and gauging the overall look of the design.

Lastly, the ladders are made and fixed at the entrance to the grating.

The head ledges and coaming are done using 4 laminated hardwood strips - these laminated hardwood strips look better than expected. However, once again, I made another mistake vis-a-vis the coaming and head ledge joint on two corners (the other two are done correctly). It was too late when I found out about this and I just proceeded with these faulty corners. I will be more careful on the next grating work.

Hi All~ Things are quite busy at work and I can barely make progress~ Anyway, I managed to finish the grating on the main deck and fitted it with a generic ladder. Below are some pictures of the finishing works on the grating.

Thanks so much, Patrick! Always appreciate your encouragement and advise~

Thanks very much for your compliment, Alan!

I had great advises from many MSW members on the grating of the 16th century galleon. I am planning to benchmark the style applied by Patrick (Baker) and also got detailed drawings for correct grating from Allan (allanyed). Thank you all for your inputs! First, I built the base structure (I just came up with this particular design - seems reasonable) where the grating would be positioned. And then I proceeded with the actual grating work. At this point, to my horror, I realized that I got the position (or direction) of ledges and battens wrong!! As the main grating was not a perfect square, I had to redo the main grating. Fortunately, the small grating just fit nicely when turned 90 degrees - no need to redo this one. Main grating redone with correct ledge position (or direction) and awaiting battens to be laid.

I searched for materials that could be used for grating - something that already has some grooves so that I can save some time. And one of decommissioned wooden toys of my son seemed to fit the profile. Below are the pictures of this particular raw material being processed into grating pieces.

Hi All, Hope everyone had (or still having) good summer holidays! I managed to finish the forecastle doors and some portion of the main deck grating before I started work at my new company last Monday. I completely forgot about these pictures and just realized that I need to upload them. So, uploading now. For the doors, I am trying out different styles for all the doors and I decided to try the simplest style for these doors. I think I actually like this style better than the previous ones and may apply this particular style for all the remaining doors on GH1. Below are some pictures during the works on forecastle doors.

Finally, the door hinge sets are made, drilled and chemically blackend along with the nails, and installed in place. I am not sure how many cannons I will be actually positioning on this prototype. But, probably not on all cannon doors. I think some tidying work will be needed later on, but mostly done on the cannon doors.

Next, the weather deck inner planking is done with couple of supporting structures attached. Also, the forecastle inner planking is finished along with door frames.

Hi All~ I suppose a lot of you are on holidays. I am on a one week holiday before joining a new position in a new company next week. It will be quite busy for at least couple of months after my arrival in the new company and therefore I may not be able to post new progress for some time. I have worked on cannon doors and hinges for the last 2 weeks. and they are finally finished and installed in place. The below are pictures of these works, beginning with the making of cannon door frames and lids.

Thanks very much for your compliment!

Not the final product yet, but the stern balcony is put in place for further work later on - after the planking work on the areas above wheatherdeck and etc.

The pillars and handrails are glued into place.

These rounded and rectangular pillars are positioned and calibrated for angle etc before glueing into position. The rounded pillars are dyed with light oak color. For the balcony taffrails, I laminated 3 thin hardwood sheets to come up with naturally curving shape.

Hi All, Finally, the work on stern balcony started in ernest. I have used disposable bamboo chopsticks to get the rounded pillars into shape. These bamboo chopsticks are quite hard but still relatively easy to work on. Once again, I used the IKEA drill for shaping these pillars. Below are some pictures during this process. The picture in the middle shows the original unprocessed bamboo chopstick along with the half processed bits and final product. These rounded pillars will be positioned in an evenly spaced interval throughout the outer edges of the balcony except for the corners - which will need to have wider pillars to fasten both sideway and horizontal stern balcony taffrails. Once again I used a decommissioned hard wood choptstick to get these rectangular pillars.

You are right, AON. I just scratched the lattice design with a thin file~

Hi~ nothing fancy was done here. I just scratched the lattice forms with the thinnest file I have on to the back of the plastic panel.