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Barbossa

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Everything posted by Barbossa

  1. It’s been a while Coppering is a bit time consuming. The plates were purchased through Victory Amati. This is a lesson learned : from aesthetical point of view I should have applied them instead of those supplied in the box of my previous build ( HMS Diana Caldercraft ). It’s money well spent. The shiny look is rather a consequence than a purpose : I had to remove the sporadically traces of CA and the most delicate steel wool leaves no scratches, although it is recommendable to preliminary test this method with copperplate leftovers. Be cautious. I guess there are probably better ways ( chemical ?) to remove traces of CA-glue on copperplates : feel free to reply, other members might benefit from this topic. The strip that covers the transition between the black painted wale area and the copperplates is from cartridge paper that received a coat AV 71.036 Mahagony-paint. The choice of the mahogany color ? This matter was submitted to the aesthetical taste of Mrs. Barbossa. The idea of the paper strip is not by the book but very convenient and pleasing to the eye. The main reason : paper allows cutting in all forms and shapes which might prove handy when bow and stern area curves are involved. Most of all : the awkward cut copperplates alongside the waterline are not visible. Concerning the rudder and especially the hinges that support and connect the rudder to the keel I also went for the paper solution. I covered a part of a sheet with AV 70.994 Dark grey. Flipped to the other side where I drew a sort of a grid. The next step reminded me of kindergarten ( long ago ) : gently insert a hole with a pin at every crossing to create a sort of an embossing effect to simulate the presence of the nails. Then cut the strips and apply with epoxy. I would not recommend CA glue for this operation as the latter allows few possibilities for corrections. I have special embossing metal sheets at my disposal but I could not obtain a clean cut with a Stanley knife for the small strips. The pins that connect and secure the hinges are from tooth prick extremities that also were painted in AV 70.994 Dark grey. I know there are probably better ways of proceeding mastered by experienced scratch builders : but the here-above described approach was doable and most of all : it was fun. Next move ? After finishing the hull, I’d like to insert a little break. I must admit I underestimated the time consuming element of this project ( Job + family life ) compared with previous kit projects. Another argument : the evolution in the kit market ( e.g. HMS Sphinx ) I wonder if this gem were to be released a few years earlier to my current project, I ever would have started it in the first place. Nonetheless, I intend to finish what I started, be it in several episodes. ( waiting on the shelf : HMS Pegasus, HMS Speedy and a whole collection of WW II airplanes ) See for more pics
  2. Aside from the high level of your weathering skills... this is so huge. I always thought 1/72 U-boat or US-Gato submarines released by Revell were maximum size but this is a another league.
  3. Hi Mark, The next time better and re-learn sounds very familiar to me : I've lost count how many times it occurred to me. However, as mentioned here-above, painting & sanding should do the trick. Carry on.
  4. Nice work, Patrick. A masterpiece is in the making. Our holidays began end of August. Just came back from a little city trip to Antwerp. Always recomendable ! Went to "Modelbouw Baliën "- nearby Borgerhout and I felt like Alice in Wonderland. How scarce such shops have become.
  5. Great Job, Jonathan Don't you worry about the historical accuracy. Much has been said if whether or not San Felipe is a fictitious ship . The most important is that you're acquiring tons of weight in experience by tackling this kit. And she's so good looking. Keep up the good work. (finished my specimen in 2006)
  6. Thanks Patrick + all the likes. Next episode : further details on the bow section + adding the copper plates. Purchased ( long time ago ) the necessary number of copper plates through Victory Amati. Regarding my previous build ( HMS Diana) , I still regret I carried out this operation using the copper plates supplied in the box : lesson learned. Take care.
  7. The additional ornament on the stern gallery was another story. As the curve was delicate, I splitted it up in 2 halves. Next pics show my woodcurving skills are limited, less to say equal to zero The decoration strips under the window are an assembly of 2 styrene strips : a half round 1,5 mm and a 1x2mm strip
  8. ....But I felt unhappy, so what do you do ? Of course...you rip it off and start all over again. So I took the opposite way : 2 small paper strips upon a black rail. Much better.
  9. For present update, I shifted my attention towards the bow section. Decoration rails, first attempt : Manaufacturing a relief-shape into a curved strip was a bit tricky, thus I avoided this roadblock by adding a black paper strip in the center....
  10. Price in 1955 : 12590 francs. = Wow, that was lot of money The brand "Singer" induced my wrong assumption. Good luck with the sails, Patrick
  11. Nice job, Mark As this hurdle awaits me, I'll be following your progress although I haven't figured out yet which path to follow : clay (Fimo) our wood carving.
  12. Leave the bad things behind and welcome the present, glad your back with us Mobbsie. I sincerely hope for Caldercraft's issue related to your project as it is quite on the Caldercraftfront or am I mistaken ? What about their 74 ?
  13. About time for an update, progress is slower compared to kit building ( those were the days...) First of all I'd sincerely wish to thank all members who replied to my topic "3D drawings 18pdr at 1/64 scale", posted last Februari 11. Among those generous offers, one in particular caught my attention as it exempted me from the necessary drawingwork as well as the production of the guns itself. The final acquisition was the result of old fashion interchange. I can assure, guns are state of the art. Aside from modelingmatters I find it very pleasing to chat with a fellow- MSW-member regarding other subjects and life in general. We agreed about the life-necessity of chocolate . For the interested in 3D expertise: please contact "puckotred". Regarding the painting : - overall : AV RAL 7021, Black Grey 70.862. - edges and reinforcement rings were covered with AV 70.863 Gun Metal. Although the pics may not show, the effect is very pleasing to the eye. A modest attempt to scratchbuild the ship's stove is also included in this post ( + continuation )
  14. Hello, First of all, I'd like to thank all of you guys for your concern & input : - rrailsley, Chris Watton, Mark Taylor, minimi ( Michael), Aidedecamp, CDR-ret ( Terry) and Mr Pucko (Puckotred); I sincerely hope I did not forget any other member ( if so, I apologize) . I think I'll settle for the proposal of Puckotred. 3D ? We haven't seen the end of it, I guess. - Mr Pucko ( Puckotred ) : I'll PM you this evening.
  15. Thanks Chris & Mark for the input. As I have only English manufactured cannon barrels at my disposal, be it for the same caliber(18pdr) and the same scale (1/64) but different shapes ( next post I'll join a photo, historical accuracy was already jeopardised. So as Mark quite rightly suggested : this is not that much a concern as far the gun barrel does not carry the Rex George III insigna. On a French ship..this would not do, I'm afraid. Also checked Frédéric La Hoche website, indeed only 1/72 available and they do not sell piece by piece separated, only the complete gunnery. So the only option left seems the Armstrong pattern. Or plan B : moulding and casting, by which I have zero experience.
  16. Thanks for replying, Chris. The launch date is 1782 . But rather then the launch date, I'm afraid the origin might perhaps be an issue as it French (la Vénus)...
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