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dirkske

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  1. You could try the free version of DelftShip. But it leans toward CAD https://www.delftship.net/
  2. Apparently there should be no need to moisten the thinner strips. I may need to upgrade to a hotter iron. But this one is very practical being so small in size. Maybe I'll just stick with it and live with having to apply heat longer.
  3. I recessed the ?bearding? line along the bow. Also sanded the frames. I gave a shot at bending the first plank. And look and behold, what is likely commen practice and utterly boring to most of you is giving me such joy. The plank sits in place, curved, without any persuation 😁 I uses my plane covering iron again, but need to give it a good clean. The covering glue residue rubs off on the planks. Does anyone use a heated bed from an old 3D printer as baseboard for these bending operations? It might help heating the planks more equally from both sides. Or are the planks typically soaked tranferring the heat more easily in depth? It does seem to work when heating from a single side. But it would not hurt being able to shorten the heating duration. Did I mention this build will be a slow one? 😋
  4. Agreed, if the cutter was selected by the builder. But if Chuck was to select a reputed single one per economic region... I can't imagine that such a company would be less thrustworthy as the builders buying the plan. Given the amount of builds, those type of companies may not have an interest though. Regardless, the lasered parts are no longer an issue, since the 2D parts are detailed on the plans (I initially thought they where not). I have the tools to CNC route the 2D parts myself (although handcut may be quicker). So for me personally, those are not an issue. For the 3D friezes etc I will have to sponser the gready government 😔
  5. Aarschot small little town along the Demer river. I live out of center in the old dunes that have turned to 'iron stone' over the centuries.
  6. Thank you Wintergreen 👍 Unfortunatly I allready started framing, thus chiselling this out will be difficult. Ah well, difficult is not impossible.... 🙈
  7. Thrust me, I'm not trying to debate quality nor value. Just saying that in EU, depending on country, cost is roughly double to that in USA (due to taxes, customs and handling charges) and that is a pity. So maybe, just maybe, you could consider to select a fabrication partner in EU which pays you a royalty? I am lacking experience to tackle this project, but having a EU source would make it a no brainer to purchase the base package, plus some specifics for a future build.
  8. That is great. I however prefer to retain the course side. As said, it comes in handy for other uses. And I don't see me wearing out the fine side quickly. It is a solid product.
  9. Sadly, added 21% vat (at receiving end on top any usa vat), shipping cost and customs % calculated over all the previous plus a flat fee customs declaration cost make that very pricey starter kit 😔
  10. I for one love their tools. Yes, the course side is seldom used in fine modelling. But heck, its there when you need it. And VERY handy when you do work around the house. I have most of the reviewed products and over the years each has come in handy. Either for hobby, or around the house.
  11. Aligning the first former after sanding the keel to thickness accepting all the formers with a very faint friction fit. I am still missing a level, or even flat, building bench. This due to a recent (and still ongoing) house rebuild. So, as a stopgap I levelled a leftover board using, again, leftover adustable IKEA cabinet feet. Next I used the same laser to level the first bulkhead. Turned the lot 180deg around and so it continues.
  12. Currently I'm getting my bearings on the kit. Let me start with a question on fitting the hull planks. My initial line of thought was that the line indicated with the red arrow was where the hull planks meet with the keel. While this seem possible at the bow, that does not add up at the stern. Thus, I must be misinterpreting them. What do those lines indicate? Is it the start where to taper the keel frame to, say, 1/3 thickness?
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