Wawona59

Very impressive build. I like how you included a series of step by step photos. Very nice model! What subject is next for you on the horizon?

Hi Jeff, Welcome to Model Ship World! Based on the dimensions of the USS North Carolina from Wikipedia a quick calculation results in the following estimated model dimensions: USS North Carolina Actual Length 728 ft 9 in (222.12 m) Model hull length 1/350 - 8,745 inches / 350 = 24.98 " 1/200 - 8,745 inches / 200 = 43.725" Actual Beam 108 ft 4 in (33.02 m) Model Beam 1/350 - 1,300 inches / 350 = 3.7" 1/200 - 1,300 inches / 200 = 6.5" Actual Draft 32 ft 11.5 in (10.046 m) Model Draft 1/350 - 395.5 inches / 350 = 1.13" 1/200 - 395.5 inches / 200 = 1.98" I'm sure others in the group may have a better way to calculate the model dimensions but this should give you a close approximation of the model size and the plan size needed. Good luck on your project.

Hi Bob, A warm welcome to Model Ship World. I remember when I first joined MSW I was frequently lost and eventually found my way around the site. If you are looking for help on your Armed Virginia Sloop, I would start by looking in the Member's build logs section. The logs have a separate section of kit built and scratch built models. Both sections are organized by launch date of the ship. I would first look in the kit built section for ships launched between 1750 and 1800 (AVS was launched in 1768 if I remember correctly). Once you are in the correct launch date section go to the search engine in the upper right corner of the screen and do a search for Armed Virginia Sloop. You will then find a listing for all build logs in that section for the Armed Virginia Sloop or any log that mentions the AVS. Alternatively, you can search the entire MSW site for Armed Virginia Sloop. That should give you some references to help answer your question. You may also find some information the Shop Notes-Modeling Tips section of MSW. There is a lot of information here as well as some very knowledgeable and friendly ship modelers. Welcome Aboard! Enjoy!

Hi Jeff, I've been following your Confederacy build with great interest. I too have the Confederacy kit in my stash and aspire to build her someday. However, I'm in the same boat as you (pun intended). I need to finish my current projects to improve my skills so I can do the model justice. I've also got a clipper ship model on hold waiting for my skills to improve. I'll be building some of my smaller, easier, kits with a plan to give them away to an interested kid at our upcoming model show in February. In the meantime, I'll be following your Confederacy build with great interest. She's a beautiful ship and you are doing an excellent job on her so far. I hope you have a great new year 2025.

Welcome to Model Ship World Andrew! You're in the right place where there a lot of like minded modelers with various levels of modeling experience. By the way, nice job on your lobster smack. Welcome Aboard!

Welcome aboard to MSW Dave. Your models are wonderful. I tried to build a solid hull ship in the 70's and failed miserably. There is a treasure trove of information in the modeling tips section of the MSW website.

You've come to the right place. There are a few clipper ship and Donald McKay enthusiasts on this forum. They have done some scholarly research on several of McKay's clippers. Search the build logs for kit and scratch-built ships with a launch date of 1851-1900. Look for build logs of Staghound, Glory of the Seas, Flying Cloud and Flying Fish. You will find several clipper ship enthusiasts there. By the way, the remains of Donald McKay's last clipper, Glory of the Seas, rests here in Seattle. Unfortunately, not much is left though as she was burned in the 1920's to recover the metal in her hull. Good luck in your search and WELCOME ABOARD to Model Ship World.

Beautiful!! That's sure to keep a keen edge since you used a hardened steel outer ball bearing race for a blade. That pear wood handle looks comfortable to use. Looks like you've got a favorite tool on your hands (or should I say "In your hand"

Here's a list of the measuring tools that I use most frequently: 6" steel rule - L.S. Starrett 12" steel rule - L.S. Starrett 4" combination square - L.S. Starrett 12" steel centering rule - Bridge City Tool Works 6" adjustable bevel gauge - Bridge City Tool Works Digital Caliper 3" steel inside and outside calipers 3" steel dividers 3" steel machinist's square 8" Proportional divider - Alvin West Germany Marking knife Mechanical pencil with lead and steel nibs Marking Guage w/round steel blade - Veritas, Lee Valley Toolworks Chalk line for marking the centerline of a deck I keep them in a Gerstner machinist's tool chest I hope this helps. Get the highest quality hand tools you can afford. They are more accurate than the typical home center variety and are a pleasure to use. With proper care they will last you a lifetime as well as the lifetimes of your decedents who may inherit them.

Glad to hear that you'll be starting with building the Shipwright Series. All three models, Dory, Pram and Shipjack are progressively more challenging to build. There are several build logs on MSW for each of them. You will get a lot of help from folks on MSW who have built them. I'll be following your build logs when you start one for the Dory.

After reading some of the build logs for the Model Shipways USF Essex decided to order a set of plans. To my surprise the plans were only $5.99. The plans consisted of 5 sheets of full size plans plus another sheet with the original designer's draft and the kit designer, Samuel Cassano's build notes. Is there any way to determine whether these are plans that came with the original kit which had some issues, or whether they are revised plans. The price on the ME website is now $23.99. These plans look pretty good to me. Does anyone have any thoughts?

Hi Alan, Welcome to Model Ship World. It's good to see a new ship modeler join MSW. There are a lot of good folks on this forum with lots of helpful advice. Before you embark with your build for the Chriscraft model I highly recommend that you consider building the 3 models in the Model Shipways Shipwright Series. There are a number of build logs on MSW for each of the models in the series. The instructions also give a good overview of the basic tools you will need to get started ship modeling. Resist the urge to buy every modeling gizmo you come across. Buy a basic set of tools as listed in the Shipwright Series instructions and buy the best quality you can afford. High quality hand tools will last you a lifetime. On the other hand, many of the cheap tools usually don't perform as advertised. Best wishes for your journey in this wonderful pastime. Welcome Aboard!

Welcome to Model Ship World Joanie. I'm partial many of the older modeling books. One of my favorites is The Ship Model Builder's Assistant by Charles Davis.(1926). It's available at many used book stores such as Powell's Books. I think it still might be published by Dover Books. I like this book because Mr. Davis frequently explains how various pieces of sailing ship equipment works. Good luck in your ship modeling journey. Beautiful work on the schooner model by the way.

Well said Richard. I neglected to mention the camaraderie in the modeling community in my previous response to Jackson's query. When I was a kid in the 60's, the modeling camaraderie was maybe 1-2 like-minded kids in the neighborhood and perhaps the hobby shop owner where I bought my model kits. Now, thanks to the internet and groups like MSW, the modeling community is now world-wide.

Very nice "Cat"! For our Firebomber display several years ago I built a model of the PBY 5A as it appeared in the movie "Always". My model is on the bottom shelf in the back corner. This is a real plane (not Hollywood") that was based in Ephrata, WA near where I live. The model is now owned by a very happy kid.

Nice work so far! I'll be following along and hope to see more of your work on this project. I have a Nieuport28 in my stash. It's the 1:16 Model Airways kit. I'll get to it someday after I get my current projects finished and delivered to the recipients.

Welcome to Model Ship World Jackson. What an interesting philosophical question. I was introduced to building models by my dad over 60 years ago. He could take a box of balsa sticks and some tissue paper and make something that could fly. Later, he showed me how to build balsa and tissue models. I was hooked. I've been fascinated by history from a young age. All of the models that I've built were of real subjects that I would research with the help of a librarian. When my dad got a job at Boeing in the mid-60's we moved to Seattle, where I became interested in aviation history (anything built by Boeing at that time) and maritime history. I visited the Lumber Schnoor Wawona in 1966 and I was hooked on Sailing ships. Ships have affected our daily lives in the past and still do today. Ships transport the food we eat, clothes we wear, goods we buy, etc. etc. and also transport the goods we produce to other countries. They help protect our country's interests in times of war or conflict. They can take us to destinations we've never been to. They have been vital throughout history for economic growth and exploration. So, why do I build models? 1. Keeping in touch with history. Every model I build is of a subject that I research. I have a couple of models on permanent display at the Seattle Museum of Flight. These required considerable to get correct for a museum display. I have several memorable projects I've built over the years. I've given several of my models away to kids who expressed in interest in the history of the model. My signature below includes models involving Seattle maritime history that are on my short-term build list. 2. Satisfaction and sense of achievement. I never build anything just "out of the box". Most of my models require a lot of scratch building. It's a pleasure working with my hands and using my brain to create something unique. 3. Pleasure working with wood. All of my ship models are made out of wood primarily using hand tools. It's truly a pleasure working a clear piece of hardwood with a newly sharpened hand plane or chisel. 4. Relaxation. Modeling is mental therapy for me. When I turn on some classical music (Baroque) and work on a model the problems and stress of the day seem to fade away, at least temporarily. Looking forward to reading your thesis when you are finished. WELCOME ABOARD!

I built the 1/48 Roden N28 in 2018 as part of a WW1 centennial display at the Seattle Museum of Flight. One feature of the Roden kit that I found interesting that I really liked was that the cockpit is built outside of the fuselage and then carefully slid in place through the front before the engine and cowling are installed. The N28 is one of my favorite WW1 aircraft due to its sleek lines and that it was the first fighter employed by the American Expeditionary Force. I think you will enjoy this build.

I second Chuck's recommendation on beech instead of oak. Beech is a tight grained hardwood that takes stain well and is easy to work with. Oak is too course in my opinion for model work. A good source for beech is popsicle sticks. Save the sticks after you've enjoyed your ice cream bar.

I bought all three of their tools, slicer, repeater and sander. These are high quality tools. The slicer is my go-to tool for cutting strip wood and results in a very clean cut. The repeater is useful when cutting strip wood to the same length. However, similar results can be achieved by simply clamping a piece of scrap wood to the fence and table. Granted, these are expensive tools, but the pleasure using them far outweighs the investment. After using these tools for about a year now, the initial sticker-shock price was soon forgotten. Highly recommended!!

Nicely done! Great workmanship. The green and white scheme really pops! I must admit, after reading several build logs such as yours, I'm starting to develop an affinity for oar-powered small craft. What's next on the horizon?

Mike, Beautiful work on the canoe. Cedar strip canoes are popular here in the wet Pacific NW. What kind of finish are you planning for her? Clear WOP or linseed oil perhaps? I'd like to follow along on this one. Keep up the good work. She's going to be a real "looker" when you finish.

Many thanks to all the MSW members who responded to my post. Those videos were very helpful and Dziadecaek's the diagram in post #11 is spot on for my question. I guess it really comes down to personal preference. I have a set of 8" West German dividers that I've never really used a lot. I'll start experimenting with these. Since 99% of my modeling is with hand tools (quality ones) I just like the idea of using the dividers. It comes down to' "The modeler who dies with the most hand tools, wins." LOL Thank you all for your input. It is very helpful.