rtropp
-
Posts
927 -
Joined
-
Last visited
About rtropp
Recent Profile Visitors
2,476 profile views
-
Gregory reacted to a post in a topic:
sources of 4.5" x 1" sandpaper for microlux belt sander 15229.
-
great thought. I have 1x30" and there are videos on utube that show how to make belts. think I'll give it a try. Richard.
-
so, no one knows who might sell a compatible sandpaper? Sorry I got it. Its just that 7 of 8 dollars for a 4.5x1 belt is a bit much, or am I wrong? Thanks. Richard
-
Hi, I am beginning to use the microlux 15229 more frequently but would like to find a more reasonable source for premade sanding belts. I'm pretty sure I have seen comments somewhere but for the life of me cannot find them either in the forum or online. I would appreciate any leads. thank you, Richard
-
rtropp reacted to a post in a topic:
Removing Char from bulkheads
-
Proxxon mini lathe verdict
rtropp replied to Srenner's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
For me, the proxxon worked well for shaping masks and spars. It’s not a metal forming lathe, your getting a wood lathe for light use. The key that got me going was the process I ended up using to get some degree of accuracy. 1. Measure points along mast or spar from, hopefully, the 1-1 plans 2. Transfer to dowel. 3. Mounted on the lathe, cut small “rings” to the measured depth for each location where Thickness changes. 4. Use the cuts to control depth of sanding/filing on dowel 5.I use mostly sand paper on blocks of wood or small files to shape the mast or spar on the lathe. (Easier to control than chisels). 6. Once you have the series of cuts on the dowel it becomes almost like connect the dots. A tip from another member on using shrink tube (like in electronics use) led me to buy a small box of them. Anyway, I slide the grip end of the dowel into the three jaw chuck and use the shrink tube to help protect the wood. hope this helps. R -
Ed, hope your still out there. I was getting ready to start the Naiad per your book. I have the first book but cannot find the second one. I would hate to start and not be able to finish it. Do you have thoughts on how I might obtain a volume two? I appreciate your help, Richard
-
I am becoming a big fan of CA in my modeling and don't write off thin CA. Many parts are difficult to clamp, and my hands are not as good as they used to be at holding parts and waiting for them to hold with slower drying glues. There are various applicators that are sold for thin CA that give a lot of control. Instead of trying to control from the bottle I use tiny containers (from amazon and primarily for nail or tattoo artists). I put a small amount of thin CA into the container and use the applicators giving very fine control and the ability to place tiny/precision amounts of the CA. The thin CA leaches into the wood joints and for most, does a fine job of holding almost instantly. My process has increasingly become holding parts in place on the model and apply tiny amounts of CA. The parts hold in a few seconds and a lot less fumbling with clamps. If I make a mistake (and I do, often) I use a little debonder or acetone and I get to try again. I do not use the spray hardener often. I find I don't really need it and the odor is obnoxious. My takeaway is that I reduced the need to hold or clamp parts which is tough on the arthritis. Really it is mainly second planking that I use other glues. Thanks
-
Thank you all. Some great information that will help me move forward. I appreciate the great ship pictures. I would take the time to mask the hardware just for looks. Richard
-
Pore filler lacquer Recommended
rtropp replied to Krupi's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Hi, I screwed up the hull of my Occre Albatross. Is there a way to paint over the varnished hull with white paint? Thanks, Richard -
Cristiano, is there any of that that is commercially prepared to be "painted" in white, especially mail order. Might want to give it a try to cover up a varnished hull that I messed up. Thanks
-
Hi Allan, The instructions show that the planks as one piece that run the full length of the boat with the second planking running right up to the edge of the bow, stern and false keel. Then a preformed keel is attached. No rabbet that I can see. I have pasted images from the manual. I figured that the plank length was probably off but didn't think about a rabbet. I thought that somewhat realistic hull planks would look better than one long plank. I also cut up the deck planks. The instructions suggested marks at every 100 mm to simulate deck planks. I went ahead and just cut the planks and used a simple staggard pattern in some semblance of realism. I thought that I should do the same for the hull but wasn't sure what length to use. I have been using common staggering patterns seen on this site but fudging here and there for width.
-
Occre's Albatros a schooner dating back to 1920, when the vessel was built at the state shipyard in Amsterdam. At 1:100 it is 22 inches when finished. The instructions as well as pictures online show the albatross first and second planking with mostly full-length planks i.e., 20-22 inches long. I was wondering if the planking on the actual boat would have been made up of shorter planks and, if so, what length would they have been. Thanks, Richard
-
Alann, I found this. http://www.modelshipbuilder.com/page.php?183. let me know if it helps, Richard
-
Steam Schooner, your lifeboats are along the lines of what I am trying to accomplish. Mine should be much easier because they will be covered by tarps so the inside will not be seen. My first try is to fill the plastic boats supplied with wood filler, than shape it and plank it. We'll see how it turns out. Richard
-
Dziadeczek, Those boats on at a glance are beautiful. I am inspired to try those no matter what I do with the tug. Roger, the Canute was built in 1931 in Denmark. Not sure if it used wood or metal and I may well end up painting the plastic to simulate metal as a quicker solution. But, I am trying to scratch build wood lifeboats/ship boats as a practice for a period warship I have on the shelves. From what I have seen of others work, building wooden ships boats could well end up as a much longer-term project. Thank you all for your help. Richard
-
Mark, I am starting to find examples. thusfar they are bread and butter, but I can keep looking. Thanks Dziadeczek, thank you for your reply. I do not have the Frolich available and I cannot find Post #89. I searched for your build but again came up empty. I guess I am not very good at searching. Can you tell me the title of your build or direct me to Post 89. I am very interested to see it. Thanks for the help, Richard
Our Emblem ®
