rtropp

Thanks for the comments and likes and for looking in.   
 
I've spent the last 4 days, working on the two main windows and tweaking the frames for the galleries.  The top was too far outboard and the windows didn't lean inward.   I've also done several iterations of the two rearmost windows to get the fit.  Here's were I am this weekend.   The windows will get cleaned up more (laser char) and then glazed before installing.  I'm going with full glazing as I think it will look better.  I'll also add the planking between them and finalize the forward most window.   I'm hoping that it will have the 3 panes wide but we'll have to see.  I'm thinking that this window was overall narrower than the other two with rectangular panes instead of square-ish.
 
Here's the pictures.  The first picture shows the "lean" that I was talking about with the red lines for emphasis.  The other two just show the window placement.
 

 
 

Wyzwyk, Alex and druxey - thanks for nice comments.
I started the gun "production". In this moment is done the easier part, the more difficult is still ahead of me.

Mark,
thanks for the info.  Re-machining is beyond my skills right now so I will probably stick with the current speeds and just run slower feeds.
 
Thanks,
Richard

Mark,
thanks for the info.  Re-machining is beyond my skills right now so I will probably stick with the current speeds and just run slower feeds.
 
Thanks,
Richard

Thank you Pat, Anthony, Greg and Greg .
 
 
Natural circulation as hotter air rises I guess Greg.
 
Hi all,
 
It seems like an age since I last updated the log, but I've been busy with the tedious (but fun) work of planking and treenailing the hull :
 

 

 

 
I've clear coated the hull inside and out to the level of the wales. Further work on Drift Rails etc will be done before I go higher :
 

 

 

 
I also fitted the afore-mentioned Port Liners :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Thank you all once again for the comments and Likes .
 
Richard, the planking "pattern" is called Top and Butt. It's used in areas of high stress such as the Wales and the 6 planks below them, and also on the Gun Deck where the guns are placed.
 
  Danny

Richard it was generally used on English warships of the 18th and early 19th century. Further than that I don't know.
 
  Danny

Dan,
Do you know if this was generally used or limited to certain size ships, or ships built by certain nations, etc.?
 
I really like the way it looks, but would not want to use it incorrectly.
 
Thanks
Richard

Dan,
Do you know if this was generally used or limited to certain size ships, or ships built by certain nations, etc.?
 
I really like the way it looks, but would not want to use it incorrectly.
 
Thanks
Richard

Dan,
Do you know if this was generally used or limited to certain size ships, or ships built by certain nations, etc.?
 
I really like the way it looks, but would not want to use it incorrectly.
 
Thanks
Richard

Dan,
There is a different pattern for the six hull strakes just below the whales that seems to be repeated on the deck. Can you tell me about more about the origins of that pattern.  I only see it rarely in the builds here or the models in museums.
 
Thanks,
Richard

Dan,
There is a different pattern for the six hull strakes just below the whales that seems to be repeated on the deck. Can you tell me about more about the origins of that pattern.  I only see it rarely in the builds here or the models in museums.
 
Thanks,
Richard

Sal,
Thanks for the tip about spacing the belaying pins.  I removed and remade one of the pin rails.  A lot easier to do now than discovering this later.
I followed your lead and soaked the parts in Minwax poly.  They look nice.  
I still have not glued the eyebolts or cleats. Earlier inexperience has built in some errors and I am not sure if I should wait to glue, or just deconstuct if there is a problem.  
 
Richard

Dan,
There is a different pattern for the six hull strakes just below the whales that seems to be repeated on the deck. Can you tell me about more about the origins of that pattern.  I only see it rarely in the builds here or the models in museums.
 
Thanks,
Richard

Sal,
Thanks for the tip about spacing the belaying pins.  I removed and remade one of the pin rails.  A lot easier to do now than discovering this later.
I followed your lead and soaked the parts in Minwax poly.  They look nice.  
I still have not glued the eyebolts or cleats. Earlier inexperience has built in some errors and I am not sure if I should wait to glue, or just deconstuct if there is a problem.  
 
Richard

Mark, I think we both have the same, discontinued MM Micro mill (#84659).
I too am considering the Sherlines as replacement but would like to hear more about the 10,000 rpm upgrade to the MM. While it seems to working ok as is, I do not have a comparison to higher speeds so might be interested.
 
Richard.

Mark, I think we both have the same, discontinued MM Micro mill (#84659).
I too am considering the Sherlines as replacement but would like to hear more about the 10,000 rpm upgrade to the MM. While it seems to working ok as is, I do not have a comparison to higher speeds so might be interested.
 
Richard.

Mark, I think we both have the same, discontinued MM Micro mill (#84659).
I too am considering the Sherlines as replacement but would like to hear more about the 10,000 rpm upgrade to the MM. While it seems to working ok as is, I do not have a comparison to higher speeds so might be interested.
 
Richard.

Hi Bill, 
I have an older version of the Micro Mark mill that I got on a close out sale.  It has two pulley steps (speed zones): 70-1600 which i use with metal, and 70 to 2800 which I use for wood. 
I have had no problem with milling wood.  As mentioned above, I do need to feed slowly.  But, the parts are so small that slow does not really seem a chore and the parts are very smooth after the milling.  This is my first experience with milling so I don't know if faster speeds would really help that much in creating smoother cuts or saving time.
 
More important for me is the accuracy/precision of the x-y tables and the vertical (z) adjustment. I have experienced some difficulty with the precision and smoothness of movement. With such small tolerances, the slightest wobble, backlash or misalignment will ruin the piece.  Also important are the range of accessories, which, by the way, end up costing as much, if not more, than the mill itself. This is where the Sherline stands out. I had the opportunity to visit their factory and museum in southern California and was impressed with the quality of their tools and range of accessories.
 
I first wanted to see if I use the mill enough to warrant the expense of trading up to the Sherline.  I do use it a lot for milling as will as precision drilling (even though I also have a Proxxon drill).
 
That said, I would be curious to hear the experience of others who have the Proxxon mill.
 
Richard

Hi Bill, 
I have an older version of the Micro Mark mill that I got on a close out sale.  It has two pulley steps (speed zones): 70-1600 which i use with metal, and 70 to 2800 which I use for wood. 
I have had no problem with milling wood.  As mentioned above, I do need to feed slowly.  But, the parts are so small that slow does not really seem a chore and the parts are very smooth after the milling.  This is my first experience with milling so I don't know if faster speeds would really help that much in creating smoother cuts or saving time.
 
More important for me is the accuracy/precision of the x-y tables and the vertical (z) adjustment. I have experienced some difficulty with the precision and smoothness of movement. With such small tolerances, the slightest wobble, backlash or misalignment will ruin the piece.  Also important are the range of accessories, which, by the way, end up costing as much, if not more, than the mill itself. This is where the Sherline stands out. I had the opportunity to visit their factory and museum in southern California and was impressed with the quality of their tools and range of accessories.
 
I first wanted to see if I use the mill enough to warrant the expense of trading up to the Sherline.  I do use it a lot for milling as will as precision drilling (even though I also have a Proxxon drill).
 
That said, I would be curious to hear the experience of others who have the Proxxon mill.
 
Richard

great job Sal, Congratulations
Richard

Hi Bill, 
I have an older version of the Micro Mark mill that I got on a close out sale.  It has two pulley steps (speed zones): 70-1600 which i use with metal, and 70 to 2800 which I use for wood. 
I have had no problem with milling wood.  As mentioned above, I do need to feed slowly.  But, the parts are so small that slow does not really seem a chore and the parts are very smooth after the milling.  This is my first experience with milling so I don't know if faster speeds would really help that much in creating smoother cuts or saving time.
 
More important for me is the accuracy/precision of the x-y tables and the vertical (z) adjustment. I have experienced some difficulty with the precision and smoothness of movement. With such small tolerances, the slightest wobble, backlash or misalignment will ruin the piece.  Also important are the range of accessories, which, by the way, end up costing as much, if not more, than the mill itself. This is where the Sherline stands out. I had the opportunity to visit their factory and museum in southern California and was impressed with the quality of their tools and range of accessories.
 
I first wanted to see if I use the mill enough to warrant the expense of trading up to the Sherline.  I do use it a lot for milling as will as precision drilling (even though I also have a Proxxon drill).
 
That said, I would be curious to hear the experience of others who have the Proxxon mill.
 
Richard

Hi Bill, 
I have an older version of the Micro Mark mill that I got on a close out sale.  It has two pulley steps (speed zones): 70-1600 which i use with metal, and 70 to 2800 which I use for wood. 
I have had no problem with milling wood.  As mentioned above, I do need to feed slowly.  But, the parts are so small that slow does not really seem a chore and the parts are very smooth after the milling.  This is my first experience with milling so I don't know if faster speeds would really help that much in creating smoother cuts or saving time.
 
More important for me is the accuracy/precision of the x-y tables and the vertical (z) adjustment. I have experienced some difficulty with the precision and smoothness of movement. With such small tolerances, the slightest wobble, backlash or misalignment will ruin the piece.  Also important are the range of accessories, which, by the way, end up costing as much, if not more, than the mill itself. This is where the Sherline stands out. I had the opportunity to visit their factory and museum in southern California and was impressed with the quality of their tools and range of accessories.
 
I first wanted to see if I use the mill enough to warrant the expense of trading up to the Sherline.  I do use it a lot for milling as will as precision drilling (even though I also have a Proxxon drill).
 
That said, I would be curious to hear the experience of others who have the Proxxon mill.
 
Richard

Hello Ed,
thanks!
 
And here is a small update.
The planking for the gig is completed.

 

 

Hi to all,
so after a long break back to "work" .
To Tom - used wood is boxwood and steamed pear
To Nigel - No, I don´t.
To Greg - I had to instal the hanging knees before beams due colloring of inner bulwarks, but I like it.
To aviaamator - sorry for flaws. I agree that real part of deck is little bit simplified because the interior will not be visible.
Sorry for delay with reply.
As another part I chose the production of guns. Guns will be turned from brass, the problem is that turning is a completely new thing for me and so far I'm learning it. I've ruined so much material over and spent so much time that would be cheaper to buy finished guns. On the other side it is the great challange for me. I hope that in a few days I will be able to "show" some result. For now at least I prepared various eyelets and hooks.