rtropp

With Titebond  or similar glues, I can remove the parts with alcohol. Also, I can clean any squeeze out with a brush and water. Can either of the glues be handled similarly?
 
Richard

Hi Keith,
I was curious about the sub par results you were having with Titebond.
 
Thanks,
Richard

Two days of preparation have paid out, the four levers are ready done. I`ve milled the form 2 mm lower, so soldering was much easier to do.
 
The milled form with the first lever before soldering

 
The first lever done

 
All four levers, the rollers and mounting parts are still missing, they will be made the next (few?) days.

 
Regards, thank you all for watching, and comments!
Gerhard

The next steps are done, this time the for lower levers to the Wheelhouse davits.
As first I had to make a soldering form, and to produce some parts for the levers. They are between 3 an 45 mm in scale, all made from brass 0,1 mm sheet to 1 x 2 mm, each lever is to be made from 11 single parts.
The pieces for one lever

 
First parts in the form

 
One complete lever in the form

 
Next to do is to mill the form a bit lower, and set two spacers at the space for the rollers, and then solder all levers. This will happen tomorrow, hope it will work as I thought.
 
Regards
Gerhard
 

Hello again
 
Here comes the next part of making the small davits.
After the top ends of the davits were done, I had to make another change at the soldering form. the mid part was cut down, and the outer parts were carved for a 0,5mm "seat" for a small brass ring.


 
 
The davits soldered with the lower bolts, just the rollers missing.

 
Best regards & thank you for your kind likes
 
Gerhard

Hi to All  and back again with the last parts of the review.
The last things i made for the DANZIG until now were the davits for the wheelhouse mounted boats. I used thedrawings '233 from the "Atlas du Genie Maritime" for that, parts Nr 4, brought them to correct scale, and made 8 printouts for the 4 pairs of davits.

 
The copys were glued to  a sheet from 0,5 mm thick brass, and cut out.

 
Between the 0,5 mm parts were 2 x 2mm brass bars placed for soldering


 
First pair of davits after the first soldering

 
The next step wasmuch more difficult, soldering the rounded parts. I used stripes from 0,5 mm brass sheet, bended them to shape, and layed the stripes between the rounded upper ends. This section was supported by a piece of 3 mm plywood, also the eye in the middle was filled with plywood. Here will a roll be built in, even at the top, so this parts must be kept clean from any solder.


 
The soldered davits were cleaned from soldering dirt with a rotating brass brush


 
Both pairs done,

 
So this was the last part of my short review to the SMS DANZIG, from  now on we are in present times...........
I hope you will enjoy it, I`ll be back , with the next parts for the davits and hopefully a lot more!
 
Best regards
Gerhard

Hi Keith,
I was curious about the sub par results you were having with Titebond.
 
Thanks,
Richard

Here we go again, but first of all many thanks for your interest, and for your kind likes!
 
At the time I`m working on the davits, this time the davits for the small boat. I use plans from the "Atlas du Genie Maritime" again, this time plan no. 244. The left one is used for the small boats davits, the right side drawing will be used for the larger boats.
 
 
As usual, I made some copies from the scaled plans, cut the shape out with a bit oversize, glued them to 0,5 mm brass sheet, an cut 8 pieces from that



 
First 3 pieces, the basic shape is same, the differents are intentional.

 
Then a soldering form had to be made, the form is screwed, it will be used later with some changes for the following steps, when once the basic davits are soldered.





 
All cut pieces and the soldering form

 
The form filled with the first 4 pieces, the davits are to be made mirrorsame! Mark the two cutouts at the center pieces, a roll will be installed there!

Next steps will be the soldering of the davits, the changes at the soldering form, and the final steps to the finished davits.
 
Regards
Gerhard

The breech rope was made using a technique I saw on an actual contemporary model.  The splice for the button of the Carronade was simulated.
 
As mentioned I am using Syren .035 light brown rope.  All of my .035 size rope is four strands.   I dont think it would look as nice otherwise.  Four stranded rope just make it work nicely.   But essentially,  the entire breech rope is made to length....3" long.   (addendum) After consideration I think the breech line should be no longer than 3".  It looks a bit long in the photo. The eyebolts and rings were slipped on before the end was finished off.  You can see that in the photos.   The eyebolts were 28 gauge wire while the split rings were 24 gauge.
 

 
Then I used a sharp but wide awl to simulate the splice. It has to be large enough that the splice will fit over the button of the carronade or cannon.  In the center of the breech rope I pushed the awl through so there were two strands on top and bottom.  Hence the need for four stranded rope. Then I applied some watered down white glue and let it dry.  Once dry the simulated splice stayed to shape.
 
I have seen many real splices attempted and they just look to big and out of scale.  I couldnt pull that off convincingly. Even though this is a cheat, I think it looks better because it stays smaller.
 

 
 
I could have just gone with the usual wrapping once around the button of the carronade...but that is tough to do in my opinion.  It wont stay in place and you must use glue so it wont come undone.  This ends up pulling the finish off the barrel etc.  In the end it just looks too sloppy for me.  So I gave this a try.  No glue is needed at all.  It slips right on the button and wont come off.  This allows you more control to set the other eyes into the brackets of the carriage and then place the whole thing on deck.
 

 
Hope that makes sense.   I also stiffened the line with the watered down white glue before starting.  Let it dry.  I just find it easier to work with when its a bit stiffer.  At least with the breech rope anyway.  I started with about a 5" long piece of rope.
 
Chuck

Sal
Very nice.
Richard

HI all, 
I have been caught up in a massive "honey do" list and am just getting back to modeling.
Bob, I tried your solution using Stainless Steel 304 Welded Round Tubing, 1/8" OD, 0.093" ID, 0.016" Wall, 36" Length. I was unsuccessful.  After a few tries, and since it is the discs that I wanted more than the hole, I decided to try a disc maker. As Davec suggested I went to UMM. They suggested a unit so I ordered it.
As soon as I finish up this household chore, I will give it a try.  
 
Richard

Sal
Very nice.
Richard

Thanks....
 
I have done the research.....I agree Greg.  It is rather bright...more so in the photos than in real life.  The truth is I have seen it done three ways...left bright and also painted red to match the carriages. I have also see black trucks.  Th eSurly contemporary model has them left bright.  But now that you mention it,  lets see.  I thought that might be too much red however?  I imagine I could test one and if it doesnt look good I could replace the trucks.  Its easy enough.....
 
Also take a look at this one cutter model with ivory trucks.  go figure!!  I wont be doing it this way.
 

 
Black trucks
 

 
red trucks
 

 
 
 
Any thoughts.
 
 

Next up is the deck framing.  The mast steps were added before hand.  I did plank the trunk cabin  as I had considered furnishing it at that time. The lodging knees were only added where the deck planking was left off for viewing. 
Allan

Thank you!!!
 
Here is a first crack at a breech rope.  I am using my .035 light brown rope.   I think it looks pretty good.   This was just a first attempt to go through the motions and now I will detail how I did it.    You can spend endless amounts of time tweaking how this rope falls so it looks natural.  After a while one has to say it look good enough.    Four more to go and then the tackles are next.
 
Note to self.....paint the underside of that cleat. LOL
 
Chuck
 

I am now 60-hours into this build and am exceedingly happy with the results.  This is the first time I have tracked my hours in a build and I actually like doing so.  I average about an hour a day.  My goal is to get into the shop for atleast a few minutes each night, which usually turns into more.  This tactic has kept me fresh and keeps progress steady. 
 
Understandably, I took very few pictures of the rework and am finally on to new stuff.
 
Below is a shot of the port bow. Please note that everything is in the "rough" at this stage.  I will fine tune later - yes, this drives me crazy...  The air gaps still need to be cleaned out and filed straight as well.
The shoe should be thinner than it is here.  I missed that tiny detail, but its small.  Note the absence of Hawse Timber #5, that is yet to be done.  An interesting detail to note is the size of the stem as compared to the knee of the head.  Note the subtle taper?  These are the kind of details you get in an authentic scratch build.  Obsessing about these things is a passion.
 

 
Note the use of the uprights in aligning the toptimbers to the base drawing.  The photo shows them just slightly off due to the angle of the shot.  They are dead on.  There still needs to be some slight tumblehome added to these hawse pieces.  There are templates to help with this.
 

 
Here is a shot from the inside.  I used boxwood chocks to contrast the swiss pear frames.  Most of these will not show in the final product, but I will be spending a lot of time with this build, so I wanted them to look pretty.
 

 
The last show is of the first free standing cant frames.  I will put temporary pine spacers to secure them in place as Ed describes in the book, Naiad.   You can see how the framing square and uprights are used to ensure the frames are both perpendicular to the base line and the toptimbers are on the mark.

Sal
Very nice.
Richard

I finally finished the standing rigging and I must say this was a challenging chapter.  Since I had installed the lower and upper shrouds for the fore mast while I was doing the main mast the rigging for the fore mast went a little quicker.
 
 

 
 
Like the main mast I found it beneficial to install and temporarily secure the topgallant stay and royal stay prior to fixing the royal backstay.  This is also when the dyslectic shipwright showed up.  I always make a point of going over the directions a number of times to make sure I’m installing the parts on the proper side of the ship but even after doing this I installed the topgallant stay to the port side and the royal stay to the starboard, opposite to the directions.  After a few choice words I decided to leave them as is because I figured nobody, well maybe Dirk, would notice anyway. To avoid this happening again I thought I would make a little visual aid.
 
 

 
 
I just need to add some rope coils to finish up.
 

To begin making the carriages,  I first removed the laser char from the mini-kit pieces.  Even just making the four remaining carriages for the port side takes considerable time.  I used a sanding stick and there are many pieces.  
 
In addition,  the outside ends of the axles were rounding off and all of the pieces were painted red ahead of time.  
 
Finally I decided to make a small jig to make assembly easier.   You can see it in the photos and its simple to make.
 
Step one was placing the axles into the jig.
 
Then the two pieces ....the transom was added atop the front axle and another strip was added across the rear axle.  Note how the front axle is shorter than the rear axle.
 

 
Step two was when I added the sides (brackets) to the carriage while they were in the jig.   The carriage was removed and a length of 24 gauge black wire was pushed through the holes in the sides of the bracket.  The carriage bed will sit on top of this eventually.  The wire is snipped off so each end stands a little proud of the surface.  
 
To finish of step two the wheels (trucks) were put into position.
 
  
 
Now to finish these four carriages off....the next steps will be shown soon.
 
Chuck

First thing you need to do is wash the guns thoroughly and get any oils or residue off of them.   Then you really should prime them first.  Then apply paint.   I didnt prime these but I am also very careful not to handle them too much at all.   But the paint sometimes does come off but not as much as I have seen in the past.   I have also taken very fine steel wool and cleaned them before painting. It makes the paint adhere better.  But rinse them off afterwards.  I didnt do that either this time but if handled gently its not a problem.

Thanks to all for very nice comments.
To toms10: The lettering is made with scroll saw. The same procedure is used for ornaments (with some hand carvings).
To EdT: I am very happy that you like my work because YOU are the true master on this forum .
I started with preparation of aft cabin bulkheads.

Stern is completely finished .

Another photos 
 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi again!
First as ever, many thanks for your kind Likes !
As you can see in the former post, there`s light in the cookhouse.
 
First I soldered emailled wire to 2 SMD-Led`s, the Led`s are only around 2 x 1 mm small.
 
 
As a next step I used 4 pieces of 0,5 mm brass rod, cut them to length with circa 5mm overlength, stuck them into a piece of balsa wood, and placed a short piece of 4 x 3 mm brass tube in the middle. All was soldered together, and then the overlength filed away.

 
On the bottom side I stuck a piece of 3 x 2 mm plastic tube into the brass, this works as an isolation for the wires.

 
A first test, there`s a light (over at the frankenstein place..............)

 
The glass cylinders are simple tubes of acrylic glass tubes. They came from medical inhalers, wich I need for the cure of COPD.

 
In the end I soldered end caps of 0,1 mm brass sheet to the lamps, grinded all to shape, and glued the lamps to corner stands. As glue I used glueing silicone, this takes a bit more time for drying, but fixes the lamps best to their stands.

 
One of the lamps mounted into the house

 
The lamps need some power, as we know, so I decided to build a battery box beneath the cookhouse. This box took me more than only one attempt, until I had it finished.
This was the first version

 
Some working hinges were to make, the box can be opened for change of batterys

 
The final version of the box.

 
This wall-mounted lever keeps the box closed

 
This lever on the box works as a switch, left position turns lights on.


 
The cookhouse with its roof. The roof was made from the same materials as the walls.

 
Regards, hope you enjoy that.........
Gerhard
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Paul
 
Thank you, and all others for your nice likes!
 
The inlay work was the first, I have ever made. It took me more than only one attempt, to make it, but it was worth that work. The gun carriages had so many small parts, even this took a lot of time, but they had it all on the original guns. Even the barrels will be detailed, more about that, when I will cast them.
Well, here comes the last part of the capstan, the spokes.
 
I used 2mm round toothpicks as basic material and cutted them to 60mm length

 
Then I glued small pieces of 2mm thick plywood to them

 
12 Spokes made

 
A little test, they fit!

 
As last step painted the square ends with black

 
Next to show is the cookhouse, a lot of pics...................
 
Regards
Gerhard