rtropp

I had wandered onto the Little Machine shop site and they have a lathe, the Sieg X2D that comes with a power feed and is less expensive than the Sherline and seems to have a larger feature set.
I wondered if anyone had experience with it?
 
I know that by now I am belaboring the point but I really feel the need for due diligence before I spend a thousand dollars or more. I am strongly leaning towards the Sherline based on all I have heard so far, plus it is an American company.  But I want to check the alternatives.
 
Thanks you all for you patience.
Richard

I had wandered onto the Little Machine shop site and they have a lathe, the Sieg X2D that comes with a power feed and is less expensive than the Sherline and seems to have a larger feature set.
I wondered if anyone had experience with it?
 
I know that by now I am belaboring the point but I really feel the need for due diligence before I spend a thousand dollars or more. I am strongly leaning towards the Sherline based on all I have heard so far, plus it is an American company.  But I want to check the alternatives.
 
Thanks you all for you patience.
Richard

Thanks for the likes, the comments, and just looking in....
 
Not a big update, but deck furniture (except for the mizzen mast step and the oven) are mostly done.  The main mast partner is coming out as I'm not happy looking at the picture.  Other than this partner, the oven and the mizzen step, everything else I salvaged from Version 1 for this build hit the scrapbox.   The main mast partner should be following.
 

Very helpful thoughts from everyone.  I have been distracted for a couple of months which is why the long delay in responding.
Mark, John, Allen, Al, thanks for the insights, the DRO does sound like the way to go.  
Don, my rework due to on the fly calculations is a primary reason for considering DRO. 
Keith, i wasn't sure that the DRO adjusted for backlash.  That will be helpful.
 
Mike, the restriction for wheel size is something I did not know.  That might put a fly in the DRO ointment. The smaller wheels might be difficult with long use.  
 
Dan
good idea for the stand.  I will keep your set up in mind.  
 
Do any of you use a power feed and would you recommend it?
 
Richard

Very helpful thoughts from everyone.  I have been distracted for a couple of months which is why the long delay in responding.
Mark, John, Allen, Al, thanks for the insights, the DRO does sound like the way to go.  
Don, my rework due to on the fly calculations is a primary reason for considering DRO. 
Keith, i wasn't sure that the DRO adjusted for backlash.  That will be helpful.
 
Mike, the restriction for wheel size is something I did not know.  That might put a fly in the DRO ointment. The smaller wheels might be difficult with long use.  
 
Dan
good idea for the stand.  I will keep your set up in mind.  
 
Do any of you use a power feed and would you recommend it?
 
Richard

Very helpful thoughts from everyone.  I have been distracted for a couple of months which is why the long delay in responding.
Mark, John, Allen, Al, thanks for the insights, the DRO does sound like the way to go.  
Don, my rework due to on the fly calculations is a primary reason for considering DRO. 
Keith, i wasn't sure that the DRO adjusted for backlash.  That will be helpful.
 
Mike, the restriction for wheel size is something I did not know.  That might put a fly in the DRO ointment. The smaller wheels might be difficult with long use.  
 
Dan
good idea for the stand.  I will keep your set up in mind.  
 
Do any of you use a power feed and would you recommend it?
 
Richard

Optimization of a knife blade
 
If a straight edge razor is 1 of the sharpest edge, what would be  the equivalent with a knife?
An elongated triangular shape with large sides to have a easy surface to maintain the sharpening angle while sharpening. The straight edge razor has 2 concave sides. I think that by forging the blade like this, it ease the sharpening process giving 2 points to rest the blade flat on the waterstone. No holder is necessary to maintain a stable angle of sharpening.
 
 
 Few years ago, I bought this knife from Lee Valley and I have always thought that it was a very cutting knife. Now I see why. There is secondary bevel on the blade.
 
 
I just looked at lee valley and the closest knife is a japanese knife.
It is a fact they knew something about knives and sharpening.
 
or may be:  http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=67995&cat=1,130,43332,43393&ap=1

Soon I believe, I will be able to begin the last carvings.

Thank you Carl,
 
In the last 2 weeks, I did some research about straight edge razor and sharpening. The single most important thing I learned is that if sharpening is the first step; polishing is the final step to optimize the sharpening one notch over. By opposition to a scraper where the edge is sharpened perpendicular to the blade and the bur is left there .
 
Stones are use to repair, sharpen and set the bevel which create the edge. They come in a variety of materials including diamond,  japanese waterstones, and ceramics. Grain varies from very coarse grain (100 micron), to a fine grain #100 (15 micron) factory edges on knives, to a near mirror polish #8000 waterstone (3 micron) to a mirror polish with diamond paste #60,000 (,5 micron) , 100,000 (,25 micron).
 
 One of the sharpest knives  available is a straight edge razor used by barber. King cutter would be one of the best kind. By example he uses watersones up to 8000 to complete the sharpening  and for the finish,  he uses a leather strop (horse leather is a very good choice), not intended to remove material but rather to accomplish a re-alignment of the indentations of the blade. Both sides of the blade are passed  successively left and right because it is important to have 2 similar sides.
 The strop can also be used for knives with 2  cutting side. Unfortunately the leather strop is not intended for carving knives. The rough sharpening can be done uo to a #8000 watersone, but the finishing is different. Polishing the edge will mean that the surface will slide in an easier way. To achieve a mirror finish we use a wheel made from cotton or felt. To optimize  the finish a green paste like the one from Lee Valley  can increase a mirror finish  up to ,5 micron.
 
Here is an idea for a good combination for hand sharpening;
 Watersones in a pyramid of  #1000, #3000 and #8000 plus a truing stone  to have a perfect flat stone (waterstones are more tender than the standard grey stone we are use to see and also a true surface will give better results). You could go  up to 16,000 but the difference would not be much significant.  And for the finishing a felt wheel + green compound to get a mirror finish.

Another photos 
 

     

thanks Mumin.  I should be able to modify it for a longer build.
Richard

I have a powered chisel that I use for sculpting.  I would not, could not, use it for modeling.  Its finest adjustment along with its weight would make it too hard to control given the fine work we require. 
But I am a slow and go modeler.  Even though I have a range of dremels and proxxon tools I still tend to use hand tools for the fine work required.  
Richard

thanks Mumin.  I should be able to modify it for a longer build.
Richard

Thanks again for the likes and comments.
 
This truly is a work in progress.   The situation is slowly resolving itself...   
 
Today's update is somewhat tiny... waterways.    The first picture shows the mill setup with the ball cutter.  I pass each waterway piece through the jig and each time take off more material.   Picture 2 shows the profile on a test piece that I'm aiming for.   I'll need to profile the side against the hull during installation to get a good fit.
 

 

Thanks as always for the likes and comments.
 
 
If I stare at something long enough, I'll usually realize what it is...  It's my mistake....  the last beam I have is 2-1/2" long.  On the drawing it's 3-1/2" long.  I think the drawing is looking from waterway to waterway which, if the beam is tapered or faired into the frames properly it would go past the clamp and end up being 3-1/2" long.  Not the end of the world... I may just shim out that area when I do the waterways and plank or I'll redo them.  I'm leaning towards a rework. I'm having my moments here wrapping my head around some of this.  
 
In my crude sketch... the black beam is how it looks now.  The red is how it should have been faired into the frame.]
 
 

Thanks for the "likes" and commentary...  
 
Making progress.   The beams are in for the lower deck.  There's probably another couple that I'll need to put in once I figure out the shape at the bow and stern.  The bow, not so much, but the stern looks different on the drawing than it does looking into the hull.  i think it's not at deck level... just has me scratching my head as I know the beams are all at the right height.
 
Anyway, I'm checking fore and main mast locations and then I'll be dropping a bit of string down the centerline to double check and pin down where I'll need the mizzen mast step, the three hatches, and the bowsprit step. I'm also plotting out the walls and cabins but won't get to far into that until the deck is planked.   Which... I'm hoping to get started on this week as soon as I can get the planks cut.  The actual next step with the waterways.  The wood has been selected (cherry) and the appropriate sized pieces selected.  
 
Here's pictures.   Feel free to point out any stupidity or errors on my part.  
 


 

I am having trouble uploading today, so this weeks work will come in several installments...  I am also having difficulty doing a narrative under each photo,
 
I am now all the way thru frame 4 as shown in the first photo.  The Keelson Knee is just shown fitted in place for now. 
 
The third photo highlights frames 4 and 5.  Note the notching of the chock on frame 4 that still needs to take place. I forgot to do this at the bench...
 
The top timber of frame 5 has a significant slant.  While this may look like an error, its actually to spec.  The slant allows room for a sweep port to be inserted.  There are many intentional irregularities with this ship that are historically accurate.  This is significant departure for me since I have built stylized models in the past that appeal to symmetry.  I now prefer the historically accurate models.  Interesting how our tastes and opinions on things evolve over time...
 
The last photo should actually be the first photo.  the forward frames are just sitting in place, awaiting spacers, final fitting and glue up.
 
The assembly line style of building the frames is certainly not for everyone, but it has greatly improved my efficiency and quality. 
 
You will also note the cross spauls that have been reinstalled.  This is a must in order to keep the shape.
 
As mentioned, I am bringing this ship to NRG in October (As well as my USB Eagle, also a scratch build in progress).  My goal with Naiad is to have the framing completed and faired, along with ribands, keelson, and chock bolts inserted. I estimate that will take me about 110 hours.
 
Best, G
 
 

Work progresses on the forecastle framing and installing the catheads.  There are two 9" sheaves in the cathead.  These were made by drilling a series of holes along the length of the sheave opening perpendicular to the water line and then connecting the holes with an 11 blade.  The sheaves were made from round brass stock, cut off on the Preac saw.  These were then drilled for a pin.  The cathead was also drilled and after blackening the sheaves and pin was inserted.
 
The cathead was inserted under the third beam and glued into place.  Then the second beam with its associated knees were installed.  Bolts were inserted through the two beams into the cathead.  The first beam was then installed.  Finally, the knee between the first and second beams was installed.  This was initially fabricated as one piece.  With the cathead in place, the middle portion of the knee was removed for a snug fit.  Carlings were inserted between the deck clamp and the first beam to support the bowsprit partner.  Mortises were made for the half hook laterally and the partner medially.  Finally, the half hoods and partner were installed.
 
I have been practicing carving the cap for the cathead.  Let us just say that it is a work in progress...
 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

I will try and demonstrate how I made the cathead.  Sorry for the picture quality but I was more interested in showing the technique than in cleaning up the model after each step.
 
I went to the plan to determine the length and lateral bend of the cathead.  TFFM has an excellent drawing of the upward angle.  Because of the size of wood available to me I decided to transfer the drawing from TFFM onto a piece of 0.375 wood and cut this out on the scroll saw.  I cut this overlong for final sizing later.
 

 

 

 
 After that was done, I drew the lateral bend from the plan onto the blank.  Please remember, these are mirror images of each other.  As you can see, the port is cathead is already notched for the beams.  My goal was to make them as similar to each other as possible.
 

 

 

thanks Mumin.  I should be able to modify it for a longer build.
Richard

I agree with Gaetan.  Also, it would allow modification/improvement based on personal practice.  I am not experienced in creating plans, but if anyone does, please post them.
 
Richard

Hi Bob,
Thanks for the product picture.  I have ordered it and will give it a try.
Thanks,
Richard

I agree with Gaetan.  Also, it would allow modification/improvement based on personal practice.  I am not experienced in creating plans, but if anyone does, please post them.
 
Richard

I do not like to mix epoxy.
I do not like to use liquid CA.
 
Metal to wood I only use CA but in gel
It needs 2 things clean and straight  surfaces.  
 
I like to use CA for small surfaces.
For larger surface like gluing copper plates  I prefer 5 minutes epoxy.

I use this type of epoxy from any of the craft stores.  I put a tiny drop of each on a piece of aluminum foil and mix with a toothpick.  Then I apply it to the part with the toothpick and mount the part.  I leave the mixed epoxy on my bench and when it is set I know the part I attached is finished.
 
Bob