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Nearshore reacted to a post in a topic: USS Constitution by Der Alte Rentner - Model Shipways - 1/76
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Nearshore reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Harpy 1796 by dunnock - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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Nearshore reacted to a post in a topic: Work area pictures only
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Nearshore reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Surprise 1796 (prototype) by James H - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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Nearshore reacted to a post in a topic: USS Constitution by Der Alte Rentner - Model Shipways - 1/76
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Nearshore reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Winchelsea 1764 by shauer - 1:48
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Nearshore reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Victory by Yabuhebi (Chris) - Caldercraft - 1:72
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Nearshore reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Bellona by Frecap - Corel - 1:100
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Nearshore reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Bellona by Frecap - Corel - 1:100
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Nearshore reacted to a post in a topic: Lynx 1812 by SaltyScot - Manuta-Panart - 1:62 - building as Mosquidobit
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Frecap reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Bellona by Frecap - Corel - 1:100
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Mr Whippy reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Bellona by Frecap - Corel - 1:100
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Hi Frecap, I like the molding tool you made. It looks like it produces great results. i am curious about one thing. Your roundhouses seem to overhang past the bow deck. I am thinking that this may cause you some issues when the time comes to install the headrails. You may have a plan already for this, but if you don't you may want to look at their positions and move them inboard a bit. Nearshore
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Mr Whippy reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Bellona by Frecap - Corel - 1:100
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Mr Whippy reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Bellona by Frecap - Corel - 1:100
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Andy Thurston reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Bellona by Andy Thurston - Corel - 1/100
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Oboship reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Sphinx 1775 by Ronald-V - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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Frecap reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Bellona by Frecap - Corel - 1:100
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Ronald-V reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Sphinx 1775 by Ronald-V - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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Hi Captain Amateur, I stopped using the instructions a couple years ago as I found that they did not give the proper sequence of assembly and they are very vague. If you follow the instructions as they suggest, it will get you into a bind in the long run. The 2 lines that you are referring to are for the 2 babbets and bearding lines that need to be carved. The first one is for the first layer of planking. If you look at my post #53 I show where I carved out the second babbet and bearding line to recieve the second layer of planking. I ran my first layer all the way to the stern post and went back and carved the babbet and bearding line out removing some of the first layer of planking. This is optional as you can stop your first layer planks at the line shown on the drawings. I decided to run the planking all the way to the stern post as I figured this would add strength plus I needed the practice. There are a few build logs on MSW and only one that I am aware of that completed the Bellona at this scale. Halaquen completed this kit and did a very good job describing his build. I use it as a reference quite often. I hope I answered you question and that it helps you on your journey building this amazing ship. Cheers Nearshore
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Andy Thurston reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Bellona by Andy Thurston - Corel - 1/100
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yvesvidal reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Bellona by Andy Thurston - Corel - 1/100
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Hi Andy, I think it is optional to plank all the way to the stern. if you do, you will just have to remove some of the material so the second layer will sit flush with the stern post. That is how i did mine when i was at the stage you are at. It was a little more extra work but i think it added strength to the hull at that location.
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Hello All, Well, I updated the shipyard again. This post isn’t necessarily related to my build log, but I find that it is appropriate because I find that looking back when I started building the Bellona 3 years ago and how the ship, the shipyard and I have grown, I wanted to share. When I got back into the hobby over 3 years ago, I set up a small workspace in our spare downstairs apartment bedroom. I had a 2’ x 4’ foldable table and a plastic chair that I worked from and a small lighted magnifying glass. I wasn’t sure if I was going to enjoy this hobby and didn’t want to invest too much into my workspace especially since I had chosen a model as complicated to build as the Bellona. Over the course of time, I added a few shelves to clear up some space on my worktable and purchased a small floor lamp to help with the poor lighting. As time progressed my lovely wife purchased me an office chair to replace the lawn chair I had been using for the first year or so of the Bellona build. I must say that the office chair was a big improvement especially since I have a bad back to begin with. I also purchased another lamp that I was able to attach to the table to improve the lighting. I eventually added a larger tabletop to my foldable 2 x 4 table adding an additional 10” of workspace. I used a piece of starboard for this, and it was great until the edge started to sag over time and the game of keeping the round tools from rolling off the table began. Well after 3 years of working on the Bellona and loving every minute of the challenges that it has provided and the satisfaction of learning new skills, I must say that my love for this hobby has given me a sense of reward that I did not anticipate when I first set up my small little workspace. In addition to the shipyard, I have also turned my tool shed into a small makeshift wood shop that I go to for the messy stuff. I think that I have reached the maximum growth as I purchased an electric adjustable height table 60" x 30" to replace the 2 x 4 foldable one. I also added another light, and I must say, my new setup is awesome, and I hope to use it for many years to come. I appreciate you taking the time out to read this post as I think it brings an interesting point of how we grow in our pursuit in this hobby. Cheers Nearshore
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Hello All, I have a small update on Bellona. I completed the 20 cannons that will eventually be placed on the upper gun deck. It was quite satisfying to see them all placed on the deck and I am very satisfied with the way they turned out. I will keep them in storage for now until the time comes to permanently install them, which will probably be some time from now. After I completed the cannons, I moved on to the installation of the channels. The plywood channels that came with the kit were replaced using solid walnut that I fabricated sometime ago. The knee braces that came with the kit needed a notch carved in them to fit between the raised molding on the hull. I used a third hand to help with getting the rough positions of the channels and applied two-sided tape to the channels to help with holding the knee braces in place. I made a couple of templates of the knee braces to get their final shape as the kit only came with the exact quantity needed and I didn’t want to mess up any of them and have to make new ones from scratch. I drilled holes in each of the channels and installed pins to attach them to the hull. Pretty straight forward technic. I shaped a groove in the center of a piece of 2mm x 2mm beechwood that will be installed as the channel rail securing the chainplates in place. I highlighted the rail channel molding using a black pigment pen which will match the molding on the head rails. I think having this detail on all the channels is going to add a nice flow to the natural colors I am using. After I completed the channels and knee braces, which I have not permanently installed yet, I started working on the chain plates and deadeyes. Well, I must say that the deadeyes and chain plates that came with the kit are awful. There are two sizes of deadeyes that are called out for in the plans. 5mm and 3mm. The 5mm deadeyes are more like 5.4mm and the 3mm ones are 3.9mm. I replaced them with ones that I purchased from Syren, and I must say not only are they much more authentic looking in comparison, but they are much more accurate in their sizes. There isn’t much room on the channels to begin with, so using the kit supplied parts would probably cause me some spacing problems. Well, I have begun the daunting process of making the chainplates from scratch and will provide and update on them once I have made some progress. That’s all I have for now and as always, your comments and guidance are always welcome. Cheers Nearshore
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Welcome to MSW!! Nearshore
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Welcome to MSW!! Nearshore
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Welcome to MSW. Your models are superb and your craftsmanship is amazing. Hope you start a build log here to show us some of your techniques. Cheers Nearshore
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Nearshore started following HMS SIRIUS 1780 By DaveRow - Scale 1:60 - POF - as she was fitted out for the "Flagship of the First Fleet" to Australia - 2nd wooden ship build , HMS Portland 1770 by westwood - Portland Scale Ship Co. - 1:48 - 50 gun 4th rate , PHOENIX 1787 by ccoyle - Master Korabel - 1/72 - Russian brigantine of the Black Sea Fleet and 2 others
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Hi Frecap, I really like what you have done with the bulkheads. They look much better than the PE parts that are supplied with the kit. You are doing a very nice job and you are inhancing the look of this kit with the parts you are making from scatch. Looking forward to seeing more of your inovated ideas and technics. Your Bellona is looking great!! Nearshore
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