DocRob

I also started with the interior painting. As Opposed to other planes of the time, most of the interior was painted and not left in wood. Again, I used the salt technique, which was a bit of a challenge with a humidity around 90%. The salted parts soaked humidity out of the air and stayed very wet. I had to repeat the salting, using less water and let dry for only some minutes and then use the airbrush for further drying, directly before airbrushing. I used Tamiya XF 76 (IJN light grey green). I sprayed a thin layer over the salt with the interior side parts loosely inserted into the fuselage, to have shadows, where the tubes are. The salt was removed then and again, the XF 76 was misted on in pronouncing patterns, until I was satisfied for now. The effect is a bit hard to capture on photos, but it´s more or less the same rendition and intensity all around. Cheers Rob

I continued with the bombs, removing the salt entirely, which left me with this: Later, I over sprayed everything with translucent layers of RLM 76 and got what I was looking for. Next will be a panel wash and the brass detonator caps. Cheers Rob

This is my first take on the salt technique, I chose the bombs for testing, because I wanted to know, how they look in the end, and if I have to replace them with AM. Normally, I build my planes without ordonnance, but in this case, I chose them for contrast and for learning the salt technique. If I´m satisfied, I will use the method for the inside of the cockpit as well, which is primed and salted and waiting for some paint. First they were primed with Mr. Surfacer 1500 in black Then the bombs were brushed with water with an added drop of detergent for better distribution and then salted with irregular salt grains from a mill. After drying, I shot a layer of AK Real color RLM 76 overall and now let them dry until tomorrow, before removing the salt. The contrast will be too harsh by far, but that´s ok, because I want to overspray again with color in translucent layers until I reach the desired effect. First, I wanted to use Tamiya XF-23 but opted for the slightly more bluish tint of the AK color. Cheers Rob

Like others said, the woodgraining looks beautiful, as does the leather, Dave. You are right, it takes time to put the innards of a WWI plane together, but I always find it very satisfying work. Tolerances are especially tight with WNW and I recommend regular test fitting with the fuselage halves. This will be a beauty, with the lobster livery. I´m still thinking of buying one (there are still some available, new , for a reasonable price) but would choose the Greek color scheme. Cheers Rob

I´m using a similar model like this one here, Dave. The white tip is a bundle of glass fibers. These glass fiber pencils are very useful, to remove paint on mating surfaces or oxidation from electronic parts. If you use them, you should wear a respirator or at leas a dust mask. There are very fine particles of the fibers in the air, while using it. Cheers Rob

Thank you Mike, it is a fascinating plane, indeed. What´s mor with these old crates, there are so many different materials to replicate, wood, metal cloth, rope, ..., right down my alley. Cheers Rob

Cant´t wait for Sally, Kevin and yes the night monster is my contribution to the LSM Twins GB. Cheers Rob

Thank you Ken, usually the WNW kits are very good, but you need to be careful, not to break the delicate parts. In case of the AEG, I re-bag the sprues, because of the very fragile parts. I don´t do that normally. Yes, there is the rigging, but I found out lately, that rigging a sailing boat is much more demanding. The build will be a challenge for sure, but I expect no unsolvable obstacles, other what I might produce with my clumsy hands. Cheers Rob

I cleaned a zillion parts after cutting them from the sprue. With the tight tolerances, WNW kits usually have, this should be done with great attention. Before I start painting, I´ve done some test fitting, to see, how the innards of the AEG lay out and how the fit will be and which parts are visible and need painting and weathering. Test fitting was promising so far, but yeah these tolerances will call for scraping away paint and use the fiber pencil as my best friend for mating surfaces. Cheers Rob

I ordered the missing mechanic and Rexx exhausts for the AEG, my Albatros D.V and Fokker D.VII. The mechanic will be this fellow by Kellerkind: Cheers Rob

Some of your questions, I will answer later for myself Dave. It definitely is a large plane and huge project. I built some smaller WWI planes beforehand and somehow, these builds were very rewarding and motivating, but never easy. I hope it will be the same with the AEG, but generally the WNW kits are well designed and the delicate nature of these build lies in rigging and finishing. I´d like to see your effort with it. Cheers Rob

Welcome on board Egilman, it´s a three seater but it will be a bumpy ride, hopefully without a crash landing. I always liked lozenge camo pattern and built some day schemes and one naval, but never a night lozenged bird. I´m no expert about Richthofens vita, but I think, he was a gunner in a AEG G.II, an earlier model with less engine power and payload. Cheers Rob

Well, it´s a bomber, why not starting with the bombs and the exhausts. In this case, it´s because the smaller 12,5 kg bombs will be filled into inboard racks and have to be painted first. I glued the parts together along with the exhausts, to evaluate the need for substituting them with AM. There are bombs from Kellerkind and the metal exhausts by Rexx. The parts look promising, but I will decide after priming. This beast was able to carry a bomb load of up to 800 kg and a later -.b version could handle a 1000 kg bomb, a lot more than the Gotha. It seems the ground was the worst enemy of this type, as many crash landed, due to night conditions and the tendency to nose dive easily when touching down. Earlier types were used in daytime raids, but better fighter coverage pushed the AEG´s into night duty. Cheers Rob

I have to admit, I was less than thrilled with the Twins-GB over on LargeScaleModeler initially, when I read about it on my Berlin vacancy. Back home, I decided to browse through my stash for inspirations, still unsure about my participation. Lots of twins to choose, but one immediately rang a bell, the monstrous (for it´s time) night bomber version of the AEG G.IV by Wingnut Wings. I have a soft spot for quirky designs and since I bought the kits years ago, it was sometimes on my schedule, but was dropped, because of sheer size and complexity. Well, now with the GB, there is another possibility to tackle this lozenged monster. I´m absolutely not sure, if I can finish the AEG until July, but will try. This is the kit and this will be the chosen scheme, but with the shark-? mouth only in white. The entire airframe will be decaled with the kit supplied night lozenge and I have to experiment a bit with the underlying color for contrast and accentuation. I will use some AM, like HGW Seat belts, Gaspatch MG´s and HGW masks. The figure of the boy will play a role along with a mechanic, which is still to choose. I think about adding Rexx metal exhausts and skipped the thought about adding Taurus timing gear for the engines. I watched at many pictures and decided, the gear is hidden under the wing in a tube metal cage, so not a lot can be seen and I will enhance the kit parts with some detailing. Rigging will be a nightmare and I´m not finally decided about the rigging material. I liked fishing line and Bob´s buckles a lot with other builds, but may simplify rigging a bit. A while ago I thought about a method, gluing in the thread directly into holes, pre drilled through the wing. this can be pulled taught from above, sealed with CA and cut flush, when dry. Because of the later to apply lozenge decals, the holes will remain invisible. Later I found a build log, where the builder used that method on his AEG build and it worked, lets hope the best. I will further use Karim Bibis great PDF-book, which I acquired from KLP publishing and use it as a guideline through the complex build. Cheers Rob

Due to the Twins-GB over on LargeScaleModeler, the McLaren build is boxed and paused. It gave me a lot of grief, but i felt, that now the fun part of the build would have started, but that´s for later. Cheers Rob

Your Taube is a beauty, Richard. I´m always amazed, what you guys are able to do with card models, simply stunning. I have a WNW Jeannin Stahltaube in my stash, which I will build in a not too far future. These early birds have their own charm. Cheers Rob

For plastic modeling, my go to´s are Tamiya plastic cement (white cap) and Tamiya extra thin (green cap). I use this combo since many years and fully trust their abilities. The extra thin cement adds another dimension, as it can be applied with the parts hold together. It spreads through capillary action. Cheers Rob

Not to my knowledge Craig, unless some of these tiny Japanese letters on the package say so. I used Tamiya´s decal adhesive, softener type for application and afterwards used the Tamiya Mark Fit extra strong on top numerous times, combined with some hot air. Cheers Rob

My only plastic ship so far model was the recently build 1/350 USS Arizona. The Hobby Boss base kit was a plastic nightmare, but the Eduard boxing included a lot of PE, brass and 3D-printed parts and I added wooden decks and figures. Cheers Rob

I think, I mentioned a while ago, that this build was supposed to be a fun build, but guess what, this beast keeps fighting me on all angles. After finishing the engine, I decided to give the Studio 27 carbon decals a try. There are over 80, luckily cookie cut with a very nice representation of different carbon patterns, along some rivets and fasteners. So far so good, but the decals are very thick and brittle. I broke many while applying. First things first, the preparation included removing cast textures on some of the plastic parts with files, sanding tools and chisels, then use Tamiya LP 1 gloss black as a basecoat. It´s best to develop an applying pattern for the decals, because they are slightly oversize on purpose to cover the edges as well. I started at the bottom sides and went up. It´s very time consuming as the brittle decals had to be bend around the edges with different numerous applications of strong decal softener and added heat from an hairdryer. When that is finished, you can go up further with decaling with the same exhausting procedure. I then applied a layer of AK Real clear flat for the finish and as protection. I finished further parts not shown here, but will continue with the body pan and then on to the cockpit. What you see on the pic are no decal seams, but different carbon patterns, some more glossy than others. Cheers Rob

Sweet Craig, you´re on a roll with your car builds. I love your chosen two tone paintjob, which somehow fits perfectly to the sleek car. In my head spins some of my Reverend Horton vinyl, adding the right soundtrack to accompany your beautiful cruiser with some psycho billy tunes. Cheers Rob

I used AK´s Extreme Metal colors for bronze and liked the result. I was after a patinaed look and achieved it with different techniques, like different shades of bluish and greenish pigments. I also used AK´s true metal wax bronze, which also has a good look after rubbing it onto black primed parts. with the wax and primer, you can ´steer´ the effect a bit. Here are pics of my Nautilus build some years ago, which I wanted to finish mainly in a NE-metal look. This was after spraying on bronze and copper with some post shading: After weathering and patina: Cheers Rob

What a nice little ship Chris and your pre chosen paint scheme looks outstanding and supports the sleek lines of the vessel. Like you, I have to finish my first square rigged ship with my DoK still lacking most of the rigging. I hope you have more guts than me and have a nice and soon outcome. Cheers Rob

Thank you Craig, the build is at snails pace at the moment, because of the festivities and other obstacles, but I hope to continue soon. Cheers Rob

Thanks for your confidence Phil, I hope, I can stay focused with this unruly build. I still hope, things will turn to the better with the kit. Next will be a lot of decaling. All the carbon around the chassis and monocoque will make it do or die. Cheers Rob