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Everything posted by DocRob
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After a proper drying time, I inspected the paintjob and found only some minor flaws, which will be corrected by brush. The constantly pressing on of the vinyl masks payed in the end. To unify the camouflage a bit better, I used a 6000 grit sanding sponge and wet sanded the whole model. It's interesting, how this seemingly unnoticeable effect integrates the different hard edged colors better. I now have a very smooth base and have to decide, if I go the painful route with the 1ManArmy masks or if I use the kit decals. Some markings for my plane are not included in the mask set, so I decaled the Arado's serial number and the kit decals behave exceptionable well. Thin but robust and easy to slide and position. I will evaluate after drying, which way I choose with the markings and stencils. Cheers Rob
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The hard edge camo is done. I sprayed the brown violet over the masked dark green areas and got a sharp result. I used a dedicated masking set, made by LF Models. The masks are made from vinyl and It took some effort to lay them down perfectly, to have no color running under it. The manual is a bit vague in places, relatively small and some codes were printed blue on green, hard to read. Definitely an area for improvement. I always remove my masks rapidly after application, before the color is properly hardened through. Luckily on first inspection, I couldn't make out severe mistakes. After proper drying, I will have a closer look. Cheers Rob
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Time and motivation are a bit sparse in the moment, but I managed to apply some color onto the Arado. After re-spraying the gloss black of the canopy after sanding, the whole canopy section was masked. The underside of the plane received a coat of RLM 76, followed by a very long masking session, a job, I really don't like. This was followed by a coat of RLM 82 Dunkelgrün (dark green) I decided against pre shading, because of the double coating in the RLM 81 Braunviolett areas. All camo colors are from AK's Real Color range and spray very fine and smooth with the added Mr. Leveling thinner. After drying, I will apply the camo masks, which are pre-cut luckily. Cheers Rob
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Curtiss BF 2C-1 by CDW - FINISHED - Hasegawa - 1:32 scale
DocRob replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
The Curtiss has become a beauty with the colorful wings and markings. an absolute eyecatcher and you are close to the finish line. Cheers Rob -
Honda RC166 Grand Prix Racer by CDW - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/12
DocRob replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Yesterday, I received the Falcon Scale Models rendition of the chainset for Tamiya's RC166. It was well packed and is well printed too. The sideview shows a bit refined detail and slightly smaller links and gear teeth. Where the 3D printed part shines, is when you look at it from above, with the opened track links. When I build mine, I will try try the PE set, because I'm curios and I have it and then will decide. I just thought, how small these metal parts are, considering the size of the plastic chainsets. Cheers Rob -
Thank you Craig, I think with the sleek and huge Arado, it's a good idea to enhance some detail areas, to let the eye wander. I guess, that's what you mean by 'pop'. I like to replicate materials out of the plastic, that don't look plastic anymore. It's one of the keys which drives me in modelling. Cheers Rob
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Still no masks at hand, spring can be awful here. It's the worst weather of the year, normally and every second day is a holiday, so no working customs, no working mail. Meanwhile, I painted the wheels with my usual workflow, spraying the hubs first, in this case semi matte black, then mask the hubs and spray the tires. Here I used Nato Black as a base and then sprayed the flanks with some drops of Field Blue in the Nato black. Last step are pigments in a concrete tone rubbed in for enhancing contrasts and simulating abrasion and dirt. Some details were picked out by brush on the hubs. The kit wheels look especially good, it's strange, how different the quality of the plastic parts is in this kit. Next were the parachute packs for the Ratos jets. I sprayed everything in RLM 22, masked the belts off and used Buff for the remainder. The ropes were painted by brush and then I rubbed in some concrete pigments. Cheers Rob
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Like I already said over on LSM, your Schnellboot looks perfect Kevin, great work. Cheers Rob
- 34 replies
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- Schnellboot
- Revell
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A very interesting build thread, thanks for pointing out the shortcomings of the kit. I plan to purchase and build the Amati Fifie and your log is extremely helpful. Keep on the nice work. Cheers Rob
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While I'm still waiting for the 1ManArmy masks to arrive, I decided to do a little detail work and gave some love to the wheel struts. The oleos where covered with AK's chrome adhesive tape, but as this is a bit stiff, Bare Metal foil would have been the better choice. My Arado 234 Monographs show the braking lines partly yellow and black, so I used my braided 0,5 mm Anyz line for the purpose along with Anyz resin connectors. The yellow line was soaked in Pledge, because otherwise it would have been to bright and have spots, where the CA stuck. The clamping strips were made from pre cut Bare Metal foil of 0,5 mm width, secured with some drops of Pledge. After drying, I will rub in some steel pigments and add some shadows and highlighting. Cheers Rob
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I masked wheel wells, engines and the canopy with sponges, tape and liquid mask and gave the Arado a rub with an alcohol soaked cloth. I paid a lot of attention to seal the canopy section air tight with liquid mask and with filling the gaps before with Revell Clear, because I hope to hinder the inside of the canopy from fogging due to thinner fumes. Prime (er) time - I applied Mr. Surfacer 1200, which sprayed very well as always. After drying, I sprayed the canopy section gloss black, to accept the riveted decal strips for the framing, if I decide to use them. Now I have to check, where I have to further work on the surfaces, be it filling or scribing. Meanwhile I sprayed other parts like the Rato rockets and their parachutes, external fuel tanks and the parts for the landing gear, which will be detailed with chrome oleos and braking lines next. Cheers Rob
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Catching up very late, but this is absolutely beautiful, well built and refined with lots of detail, chapeau. Cheers Rob
- 143 replies
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I saw this lovely kit for the first time today and yes, I want to build it. Right down my alley. a small precious boat in larger scale. Cheers Rob
- 216 replies
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- masterkorabel
- ships
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Curtiss BF 2C-1 by CDW - FINISHED - Hasegawa - 1:32 scale
DocRob replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Hannants in the UK has them available: Yellow Wings Aircraft decals - YW32008 | Hannants Cheers Rob -
Honda RC166 Grand Prix Racer by CDW - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/12
DocRob replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
It will take some days to get here, but I will post pictures. They have more chain sets in their catalogue. You have to open the .PDF on their site. Falcon Scale Models - Catalog / Katalog Cheers Rob -
Honda RC166 Grand Prix Racer by CDW - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/12
DocRob replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I ordered the resin chain and if you are still interested, I will post some pictures, when it arrives. Could come handy for your second Honda - hint . Cheers Rob -
The thing got wings finally and it's tail. Fit is good so far, but a little filling will be needed at the wingroots. The Arado is a big kite and one of the main goals until the finish is not to knock off the protruding FUG antenna posts. She will not be a tail sitter, my glued in weight was sufficient. Cheers Rob
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Thank you Craig, it's not the nicest of joins, but I guess painted and maybe decaled it will look ok. Decaled means, Fly provided strips of decal with bolt detail to apply over the canopy framing. I'm not finally decided, if I use these. I will look for the videos you recommended. Sometimes I watch modeling related footage during building sessions. I never spent so much time around clear parts with cutting, sanding, drilling, filling masking, gluing in parts of different materials, ... The cockpit is indeed the focal point of the Arado. Cheers Rob
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I took all my guts and glued the canopy shut, first the lower half, followed bey the upper glasshouse. I used Tamiya cement and after the glue had settled, ran Revell Contacta Clear over the seams three times for filling and sealing. The radio operator compartment was closed as well and received the same treatment. Cheers Rob
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