DocRob
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Everything posted by DocRob
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I never tried a carton model, but yours looks sweet and tempting. somewhere, I must have shelved lightship kit, I will look for that. Cheers Rob -
Almost there with the Cutter. I painted the hull flat white, the seats flat red and the rudder, rows and stripe flat blue, all airbrushed with Tamiya's XF colors. The gratings, which are made from PE, were primed, airbrushed with Desert yellow and then received a oil color treatment with a flat brush and whit spirit, to emulate a wood finish. Last was a coat of clear matte. The colors were chosen to match the DoK's colors. Some minor touch ups and fitting the rows, hooks and anchors and this little side project can be called done. Cheers Rob
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Your boat looks absolutely fantastic, made with great woodworking skills. Cheers Rob
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This boat is truly a model in a model and consumes lots of time to build up. My new Sphinx kit has thee boats included, that will be a real test. I added the spars, which are made from pearwood strips, which I soaked and clamped around a tin for drying with a curved contour. These were glued in with CA and then cut. Finally after adding the supplements for the seat panels, the inside of the boat got a coat of varnish. The rest of the boat will be painted matching the scheme of the ship. Cheers Rob
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I feel with you Vane, as I'm building a boat for my Duchess of Kingston at the moment. It's a tedious affair for a novice like me and the first planks were not the most difficult. I feared the step of removing the frames, but it worked out good, without destroying the hull. I used PVA for the planks in places, where the frames will be removed and CA on the other parts of the planks. Cheers Rob
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I like large scale ships a lot, as it's possible to show a lot of detail. Lately I found some pictures of the Philadelphia kit and was immediately attracted. I hope you don't mind, if I take a seat and follow your build. Cheers Rob
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A wonderful and clean build of this very attractive ship, congratulations. Cheers Rob
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- Speedy
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Thank you Tom, your build progresses greatly. Installing the fragile side railings was not the easiest task in my build, but they do add a lot to the appearance of the DoK. I recently joined here and started my build log, right were I was last week with the decks done. It can be found here. The full build log was started on MSW's partner forum Large Scale Modeler, where I'm an active member since some years. Duchess of Kingston - Beauty of the Seas - Wooden Sailing Ship 1/64 - Non-LSM 'WIP' and Completed - Large Scale Modeller BTW, I have to find a way to add my current projects to the footer of my profile, but couldn't find out how. Cheers Rob
- 118 replies
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- Duchess Of Kingston
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Thank you Oldsalt, indeed these tiny boats can challenge my patience. I've managed to smooth the hull due to sanding and applying filler and have torn out the MDF frames, which worked surprisingly well, given the eggshell like appearance of the cutter. It turned out to be very time consuming, to get rid off the glue residues on the inside of the boat with sanding tools, rounded scalpel blades and small chisels. After this was done, I made a small placement test on my DoK. Cheers Rob
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This is a very fine build of that lovely ship. I really like the cleanness of your build, which was inspiring, while I build mine. I'm slightly ahead of you with my first wooden ship, as I have just finished the decks and am fighting now with a planked boat, I want to add to my DoK. I took some peeks into your build, as I gathered as much information as I could possibly get, to help me with my newby attempt. Cheers Rob
- 118 replies
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- Duchess Of Kingston
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Thank you Derek, that sure helps. Buying a mill is not urgent and I'm still in the phase of deciding about my needs and what I'm willing to pay. I was a metal engineer in a former live and used professional mills extensively for some years. During my education as an engineer, I was part of a team, developing a self built CNC-mill. That was back in the 80's mind. I wish, I had one of those machines now. The wood milling aspect is what's new to me and you are right, speed helps with clean cuts here. My plan is to mill wood, brass and aluminum and I will dig a bit deeper into the subject now. Cheers Rob
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Like most of the above comments, I would say the booth you have chosen is not suitable for sanding dust. There are different padded filters which would clog rapidly with sawdust. I own a spray booth similar to the one you are showing, but have enhanced it a bit for bigger models and better suction. I wouldn't use it for sanding though, but the basic construction in combination with a small industrial vac cleaner might be worth trying. Using a booth limits your ability for handling a lot, you can't lets say sand a hull in there, so generally I think, like mentioned above, it's better to use tools, which have a vac cleaner port and collect the dust where it emerges. In case you are interested ,I show some pics of my booth which was enlarged using a big container made from transparent plastic. I cut an opening into it's underside, more or less the size of the booth, without the plastic sheets and connect both with duct tape. I used some ropes of LED's for lighting wrapped around the transparent box. If you find a way to install a powerful vac cleaner instead of the booth, it might work. The planes in the booth are 32 scale, the box is ca. 60 cm wide. Cheers Rob
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I built up the the Duchess of Kingston, hull and decks complete with all the decorations during a three month period and needed almost two weeks for planking the cutter. I have to admit, the little bugger took a bit of wind out of my sail, but I'm stubborn enough to want the boat having finished somehow. I'm really happy, that I wouldn't have to use the cutter in real live, as it's planking job is far away from being watertight and even if it was, it wouldn't row straigth at all. My second planking job was somewhat harder than with DoK. That's it in full ugliness, before sanding After a bit of sanding it looked a bit smoother. I wouldn't go to far with sanding, as the planks thickness is only 0,5 mm. I will use some filler next, liberally applied which will not disturb, because I plan to paint the outside of the hull. Cheers Rob
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You could apply some iron pigments with a cotton swab. My go to metal pigments are from Uschi van der Rosten, because these are the finest. Another fine weathering product ar AK's weathering pencils. They are special, because you can apply them dry like chalks or dampened. Oil colors are also very useful and on a pump like yours, which is painted matte or semi matte, you can work some gloss onto oiled parts or where spills occur. These are only some ideas which originate from my plastic modelling background, BTW.: Yor Cutty Sark looks great with all the detail. I will savour your log with a bit more time. Cheers Rob
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Very nice, showing the internal structure is a great idea, especially in this relatively large scale. Cheers Rob
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Started reading the Pellew bio today. He's still on HMS Juno but it seems to be a good read. I'm definitely interested into the Indy kit, but with that size, I'm not so sure. It's not only about displaying when ready, but also handling in the cave, I'm a bit afraid of. Maybe this changes with the Duchess of Kingston finished in a while. On the other hand, I can't stop savouring your log, open end... Cheers Rob
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A very interesting discussion you have here, about mills. I'm actually thinking about buying one and have ruled out the Proxxon MF 70 as being to small, specially considering the possible way of the table, too fast for some materials and last but not least, being limited to tiny tools with only one shaft diameter. As an alternative in the Proxxon range, I figured it could be possible to combine the stand BFB2000, the table KT150 and the motor BFw 40/E. All components are a bit bigger and sturdier than with the MF 70, but are still compact enough. You can go from 600-9000 rpm and use tools with up to a 6 mm shaft. I would be interested, if somebody has experiences with the combo or parts of it. The price tag is around 600€, more or less double than the MF 70. Cheers Rob
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Very nice work on the rigging David. I have to thank you for your immense resourceful build log, which I used as a reference for my newb build of the very same ship. I have to admit, that I stole one or two alterations from your log, like the brass pump outlets and the rounded mast bases. The 18 ft cutter, which I probably add (if I manage to build the tiny thing up) was planned and purchased from the beginning, though. I will follow your rigging experiences with great interest, as this is the part of the build, where I'm completely lost and need to absorb some help from more experienced builders like you and others here. Cheers Rob
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If this is still of interest, I built the same kit some years ago and had absolutely no issues with the masks, which I also purchased from Cult man, alon with the electronics. The masks where left in the box for some years and showed no sign of ageing. Cheers Rob
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The planking looks really nice Kev. Like you, I recently joined here and it was also caused by a Vanguard kit, in my case the Duchess of Kingston. Your Nisha sports some nice contours, always looking like a dynamic raceboat. Cheers Rob
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A truly fantastic build with interesting problem solving and a beautiful and different look, through the use of boxwood. I hope you don't mind, if I peek in and learn from your build, as you are slightly ahead of me with the DoK and way ahead in craftsmanship. Cheers Rob
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Thank you for the information Keith, I haven't thought about it, but it makes sense to tar the shroud lines, given their exposed position. In case of my build, mind it's my first rigging job and I have no other material available, than what is in the box, I will use, the natural colored one. I have to get a feeling for the materials first and therefore stay with the manual. I have no idea, how much yarn will be used and if there is spare amount, sufficient to change the color, in this case at least to black. I'm living a bit isolated and it's sometimes very hard for me to purchase modelling goods, and that gets even harder, as I don't have the knowledge what to buy. I will keep your information stored though for future builds and will sure browse through a lot of rigging threads here soon. Cheers Rob
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Thank you Kev and Mark, I use airbrushes since I was twenty years old, primarily on paper for making posters, designs and old school animations. Later I used it for modelling purposes and have accumulated some expertise. In plastic modelling, there nearly is no way around an airbrush, for wooden ship models, I found it at least very helpful. On my Duchess of Kingston build it spared me all the rattle cans and helps with even coatings without brushstrokes and dense coverage. To prime and spray the underwater area was easy and I sprayed all the golden photo etch decorations with the airbrush, after priming. and later all the black parts like eyebolts, deadeyes,... directly on their PE sheets. Really useful is an airbrush, for spraying cannon barrels, where I used matte black and then iron pigments to enhance the metallic effect. In all, it needs some patience and discipline to learn how to airbrush, but as wooden ship modelers, there should be plenty of that. If you have any questions about airbrushing, feel free to contact me or better start a thread or expand an existing one. I will answer as best as I can. Cheers Rob
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Vielen Dank, Veszett und Cathead. Ich wusste gar nicht, das hier auch Deutsch gesprochen wird. Ich freue mich sehr über die freundliche Aufnahme hier be MSW. Viele Grüße Robert
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