DocRob

I have to admit, I was less than thrilled with the Twins-GB over on LargeScaleModeler initially, when I read about it on my Berlin vacancy. Back home, I decided to browse through my stash for inspirations, still unsure about my participation. Lots of twins to choose, but one immediately rang a bell, the monstrous (for it´s time) night bomber version of the AEG G.IV by Wingnut Wings. I have a soft spot for quirky designs and since I bought the kits years ago, it was sometimes on my schedule, but was dropped, because of sheer size and complexity. Well, now with the GB, there is another possibility to tackle this lozenged monster. I´m absolutely not sure, if I can finish the AEG until July, but will try. This is the kit and this will be the chosen scheme, but with the shark-? mouth only in white. The entire airframe will be decaled with the kit supplied night lozenge and I have to experiment a bit with the underlying color for contrast and accentuation. I will use some AM, like HGW Seat belts, Gaspatch MG´s and HGW masks. The figure of the boy will play a role along with a mechanic, which is still to choose. I think about adding Rexx metal exhausts and skipped the thought about adding Taurus timing gear for the engines. I watched at many pictures and decided, the gear is hidden under the wing in a tube metal cage, so not a lot can be seen and I will enhance the kit parts with some detailing. Rigging will be a nightmare and I´m not finally decided about the rigging material. I liked fishing line and Bob´s buckles a lot with other builds, but may simplify rigging a bit. A while ago I thought about a method, gluing in the thread directly into holes, pre drilled through the wing. this can be pulled taught from above, sealed with CA and cut flush, when dry. Because of the later to apply lozenge decals, the holes will remain invisible. Later I found a build log, where the builder used that method on his AEG build and it worked, lets hope the best. I will further use Karim Bibis great PDF-book, which I acquired from KLP publishing and use it as a guideline through the complex build. Cheers Rob

Due to the Twins-GB over on LargeScaleModeler, the McLaren build is boxed and paused. It gave me a lot of grief, but i felt, that now the fun part of the build would have started, but that´s for later. Cheers Rob

Your Taube is a beauty, Richard. I´m always amazed, what you guys are able to do with card models, simply stunning. I have a WNW Jeannin Stahltaube in my stash, which I will build in a not too far future. These early birds have their own charm. Cheers Rob

For plastic modeling, my go to´s are Tamiya plastic cement (white cap) and Tamiya extra thin (green cap). I use this combo since many years and fully trust their abilities. The extra thin cement adds another dimension, as it can be applied with the parts hold together. It spreads through capillary action. Cheers Rob

Not to my knowledge Craig, unless some of these tiny Japanese letters on the package say so. I used Tamiya´s decal adhesive, softener type for application and afterwards used the Tamiya Mark Fit extra strong on top numerous times, combined with some hot air. Cheers Rob

My only plastic ship so far model was the recently build 1/350 USS Arizona. The Hobby Boss base kit was a plastic nightmare, but the Eduard boxing included a lot of PE, brass and 3D-printed parts and I added wooden decks and figures. Cheers Rob

I think, I mentioned a while ago, that this build was supposed to be a fun build, but guess what, this beast keeps fighting me on all angles. After finishing the engine, I decided to give the Studio 27 carbon decals a try. There are over 80, luckily cookie cut with a very nice representation of different carbon patterns, along some rivets and fasteners. So far so good, but the decals are very thick and brittle. I broke many while applying. First things first, the preparation included removing cast textures on some of the plastic parts with files, sanding tools and chisels, then use Tamiya LP 1 gloss black as a basecoat. It´s best to develop an applying pattern for the decals, because they are slightly oversize on purpose to cover the edges as well. I started at the bottom sides and went up. It´s very time consuming as the brittle decals had to be bend around the edges with different numerous applications of strong decal softener and added heat from an hairdryer. When that is finished, you can go up further with decaling with the same exhausting procedure. I then applied a layer of AK Real clear flat for the finish and as protection. I finished further parts not shown here, but will continue with the body pan and then on to the cockpit. What you see on the pic are no decal seams, but different carbon patterns, some more glossy than others. Cheers Rob

Sweet Craig, you´re on a roll with your car builds. I love your chosen two tone paintjob, which somehow fits perfectly to the sleek car. In my head spins some of my Reverend Horton vinyl, adding the right soundtrack to accompany your beautiful cruiser with some psycho billy tunes. Cheers Rob

I used AK´s Extreme Metal colors for bronze and liked the result. I was after a patinaed look and achieved it with different techniques, like different shades of bluish and greenish pigments. I also used AK´s true metal wax bronze, which also has a good look after rubbing it onto black primed parts. with the wax and primer, you can ´steer´ the effect a bit. Here are pics of my Nautilus build some years ago, which I wanted to finish mainly in a NE-metal look. This was after spraying on bronze and copper with some post shading: After weathering and patina: Cheers Rob

What a nice little ship Chris and your pre chosen paint scheme looks outstanding and supports the sleek lines of the vessel. Like you, I have to finish my first square rigged ship with my DoK still lacking most of the rigging. I hope you have more guts than me and have a nice and soon outcome. Cheers Rob

Thank you Craig, the build is at snails pace at the moment, because of the festivities and other obstacles, but I hope to continue soon. Cheers Rob

Thanks for your confidence Phil, I hope, I can stay focused with this unruly build. I still hope, things will turn to the better with the kit. Next will be a lot of decaling. All the carbon around the chassis and monocoque will make it do or die. Cheers Rob

Very nice dio. I like the idea of the removed engine. Painting and finishing looks spot on. These large 1/12 car kits are absolutely great for some extra detailing and toying around with presentation ideas. Cheers Rob

Late condolences for your loss Craig, what a tragedy. Your dragster looks spot on and your kit bashing will lead to a very unique result, which shows your great craftmanship all around. Thanks for the tip about the white Sakura pens, I will order one for exactly the same reason. tyre lettering. Cheers Rob

This kit is fighting me back all the way. I start to think, I´m the problem and this doesn´t feel good. Oh yes, this should be a mojo restorer feelgood project, Argh . Like always with my F1 builds, the exhaust assembly was a pain and I didn´t help myself, by adding the PE seals. The engine is not glued into the body pan, I only added it for the exhaust´s alignment. The exhausts were ´puttied´with CA and painted with AK Extreme Metals colors. First stainless steel, then metallic blue for the shadows and finally with pale engine exhaust for general highlighting. The effect isn´t too visible on the photo, but looks stainless to my eye on the kit. Cheers Rob

My work with the engine continued. After a lot of cleanup, I sprayed the block with Tamiya LP5 semi matte black and added some details here and there. I thought about using the plating to my advantage, after it caused so many irritations and scratched the black color away to let some details show through in silver. I think, I will omit wiring and tubing with this build. 1/12 kits are better suited for that, so on with adding engine details. The cover under the cylinder trumpets, was decaled with one of the Top Studio carbon decals, which unfortunately broke and I have to do some re touching. The engine without the exhausts is more or less ready now. Cheers Rob

Thank you Gary, albeit I don't share your optimism that much. The next steps will tell me, which direction the build will go, bin, middle detailed or reasonable detailed . My only F1 expertise is my recently finished Tamiya 1/12 Renault RE20 turbo, which I documented here. So far this kit was better than the modern Fujimi kit. Cheers Rob

Thank you Egilman and you are absolutely right, I should have stripped the plating, but naively I haven't been expecting such a bad fit and went for a quick start. I'm a bit wiser now at least . Cheers Rob

Hola fellow modelistas, due to different reasons, I neglected my bench and MSW for some weeks and the next weeks won't be much better. Despite all obstacles, I wanted to start a new feel good build to motivate myself and so I chose my favorite F1 car for the task. Since a while, I accumulated some goodies for this project and since some weeks everything arrived at my doorstep. The kit: The goodies: - Top Studio Cockpit detail set - Top Studio PE-set - Top Studio carbon decal set (was the hardest to find) - TBDecals sponsor decals - Tamiya seat belts - PE rivets - Colors from Zero Paints (a first for me) I considered starting with the body, but decided to start, like the manual suggests, with the engine. Big mistake, at least motivational. As you can see on the pictures, the parts are metal plated in an aluminum finish, what's not to like about it. First of all the plating has spots and foremost it's completely superfluos, because nearly the whole engine is BLACK. You might say, no biggie, but it is, because of the plating no part fits how it should, you have to scratch, grind, and re drill all holes. Beside this, you can't use normal modeling cement, so I was forced to use CA. That's not all. The engine parts sport all known types of plastic abnormalities, like prominent parting lines, ejector marks, burr and flash and the silver plating doesn't enhance general visibility. Strange thing, that other versions of the kit seem to include the engine on black sprues. In all the beginning was utterly frustrating, we don't speak about an ancient short run kit, cast in some garage, it's a relatively modern incarnation, Fujimi what have you done. This will not be a fast build, other than I sod the kit, if it continues to fight me back. Oh, I haven't spoken about detail. The positive so far, the engine is very detailed and has a large part count. On the pictures, only half of the parts are added for better painting. If you look at the picture above, you can see the cylinder heads with very prominent cooling ribs, which unfortunately doesn't exist on the real thing. This is how it looks, with the added PE parts from Top Studio. Fujimi, are you the Japanese Italeri? I'm still hoping the best for the non plated sprues and will not instantly bin the kit, but it's definitely on probation. Cheers Rob

No Craig, luckily it was only a test part. I never used the stuff again. I discussed the probs with some fellow modelers over on LSM and others had similar issues. Tamiya LP gloss black is a perfect solution, dries fast and has a durable surface, why bother with the sticky AK stuff. Cheers Rob

If you mean the black base from the Extreme Metallic range, you'd better skip it. The stuff is horrible, never really dries. It is sticky even after weeks. I used Tamiya LP gloss black as a base for chrome and polished aluminum and this is working much better. Thinned with leveling thinner to a 1/3rd paint 2/3rd thinner ratio, you get a high shine surface, perfect for chrome. I experimented a bit with chrome for my Renault RE-20 build and found if you spray on Alclad chrome with very light coats, building up until the metallic blackness of the base is barely gone, you have a perfect shine. Xtreme Metal chrome from AK was slightly less shiny, but is more durable, if it comes to masking afterwards. Cheers Rob

This is what the producer says: UHU | Product page Everyone in Germany knows this brand UHU and the product (Alleskleber or all purpose glue) and the old advertisement 'Im Falle eines Falles klebt Uhu wirklich Alles' Which means something like In every possible case UHU will glue everything. The stuff was first produced in 1932 as a complete innovation. I wouldn't use it for wooden ship planking, despite it's glory history . Cheers Rob

When I was a kid in Berlin, every family had a tube of UHU for all purposes, being it repairs or whatever kids glue together. It's an absolute classic, but I never used it in plastic or wooden ship modeling. It's clear (if it's still the same mixture) and gel like. For planking, I use generally white glue for the first layer, where I can use nails for fixing the planks and for the second layer, I use Colle 21 contact glue (Sacrilege for some here ). You have to be very careful with the application of the Colle 21 CA. It's relatively thin and I spread it on the plank using another plank rest. The good, it only glues on contact, which has to made relatively fast and correct, which means, the planks should be prepared thoroughly. I guess, UHU would glue the planks well enough, but the thickish gel would lead to residues, being pressed onto the planks surface. Cheers Rob

With my modest experience with wooden hulls, Tamiya Kabuki tape or the yellow Tesa equivalent worked good. It adheres good enough on wood and has a certain flex for slight curves. The white flexible Tamiya tape worked well for me on plastic models, but I never used it on wood and I can imagine, adhesion wouldn't be the best. Cheers Rob

Fantastic result Craig, your Bugatti looks exactly matching the story behind it, what is more to say. I enjoyed to follow your multiple weathering techniques during the build and learned a lot. One little side note, for my liking the tyres look a bit too black, given the state of the car. Cheers Rob