Jaager

I do, but I have no hands-on experience with any of them.  I started with a solid hull Balsa Scientific kit - a clipper - not a good beginner's choice - but it was so simplified - not much more than a decorator model really - that I was able to finish it.  I then started with a yellow box Model Shipways solid hull topsail schooner.  Those old style solid hull kits were so basic that going over to scratch and POF was a short step.  The lofting  for POF was and is a deep dive into a complex world and a serious time sink if the subject is a vessel of some size.  
So going by a swift current here, the Model Shipways sponsored  Shipwright Series appears to be a successful way to enter into this.  The old yellow box kits have become extinct.  The parent company Model Expo shows problems with ethics from time to time.  BlueJacket has beginner small craft that will also probably ease you into this.  Both are domestic to western hemisphere colony interests and subjects as well as import duty complexities.  I did not offer an initial suggestion because I suspected that there would be suggestions about kits from British source companies.  I do not know if there are any starter kits that are as hand holding as the Shipwright Series.  However you appear to be starting a bit farther down the road than our usual complete tyro so perhaps something a bit more sophisticated would work for you.
But - start with a boat in any case.   Even if you wish to replicated Nelson's fleet or  in my case Allin's (booo, booo) and Anson's (yeah)  fleets,  all of these ships carried multiple boats.  Learning how to build them first is anything but a waste of time.

I do, but I have no hands-on experience with any of them.  I started with a solid hull Balsa Scientific kit - a clipper - not a good beginner's choice - but it was so simplified - not much more than a decorator model really - that I was able to finish it.  I then started with a yellow box Model Shipways solid hull topsail schooner.  Those old style solid hull kits were so basic that going over to scratch and POF was a short step.  The lofting  for POF was and is a deep dive into a complex world and a serious time sink if the subject is a vessel of some size.  
So going by a swift current here, the Model Shipways sponsored  Shipwright Series appears to be a successful way to enter into this.  The old yellow box kits have become extinct.  The parent company Model Expo shows problems with ethics from time to time.  BlueJacket has beginner small craft that will also probably ease you into this.  Both are domestic to western hemisphere colony interests and subjects as well as import duty complexities.  I did not offer an initial suggestion because I suspected that there would be suggestions about kits from British source companies.  I do not know if there are any starter kits that are as hand holding as the Shipwright Series.  However you appear to be starting a bit farther down the road than our usual complete tyro so perhaps something a bit more sophisticated would work for you.
But - start with a boat in any case.   Even if you wish to replicated Nelson's fleet or  in my case Allin's (booo, booo) and Anson's (yeah)  fleets,  all of these ships carried multiple boats.  Learning how to build them first is anything but a waste of time.

From my perspective - wood - scratch - POF - if your near term goal is to scratch build a yacht using wood, any time spent building a plastic model is time wasted.
There is very little overlap in the skills required.  The rigging on a large scale version of a modern yacht will have very little in common with the rigging of Nelson Era first rate man of war.   You may even choose to paint with wood rather than pigment in a binder, so the only other overlap is not relevant if you do.  The surface prep on plastic does not relate to that of wood either.
 
A small craft starter kit of a wooden model would be a more productive time investment.  It will probably want a couple more incrementally complex kits to get there.  Meanwhile - read.  Chapelle's Boatbuilding,  Books covering small craft and yacht construction, lofting. 
 
As a background alert,  I see plastic as being an absolutely terrible material to simulate wood.  It is close to essential as a material to simulate steel.  But, it requires really special skills to use it as a raw material and be shaped to match a one-off plan.

Find a post of the person of interest.  Placing the cursor over the name or the cartouche opens a window.  In the window is a link:  Find Content.
Click that a scroll the list.  On the entries where the person is the author of the post, check to see if it is a build log.   Not efficient, but it is through. 

From my perspective - wood - scratch - POF - if your near term goal is to scratch build a yacht using wood, any time spent building a plastic model is time wasted.
There is very little overlap in the skills required.  The rigging on a large scale version of a modern yacht will have very little in common with the rigging of Nelson Era first rate man of war.   You may even choose to paint with wood rather than pigment in a binder, so the only other overlap is not relevant if you do.  The surface prep on plastic does not relate to that of wood either.
 
A small craft starter kit of a wooden model would be a more productive time investment.  It will probably want a couple more incrementally complex kits to get there.  Meanwhile - read.  Chapelle's Boatbuilding,  Books covering small craft and yacht construction, lofting. 
 
As a background alert,  I see plastic as being an absolutely terrible material to simulate wood.  It is close to essential as a material to simulate steel.  But, it requires really special skills to use it as a raw material and be shaped to match a one-off plan.

From my perspective - wood - scratch - POF - if your near term goal is to scratch build a yacht using wood, any time spent building a plastic model is time wasted.
There is very little overlap in the skills required.  The rigging on a large scale version of a modern yacht will have very little in common with the rigging of Nelson Era first rate man of war.   You may even choose to paint with wood rather than pigment in a binder, so the only other overlap is not relevant if you do.  The surface prep on plastic does not relate to that of wood either.
 
A small craft starter kit of a wooden model would be a more productive time investment.  It will probably want a couple more incrementally complex kits to get there.  Meanwhile - read.  Chapelle's Boatbuilding,  Books covering small craft and yacht construction, lofting. 
 
As a background alert,  I see plastic as being an absolutely terrible material to simulate wood.  It is close to essential as a material to simulate steel.  But, it requires really special skills to use it as a raw material and be shaped to match a one-off plan.

It is also possible that knowledge and lessons learned give you the power and determination to persevere , when not having that chip would have lead to the easy path.
If you did it twice, that would be troubling.   At least you are not a song writer who signed over the rights to a song whose royalties could have supported you for the rest of your life.

The situation is probably even worse.  The veneer has a high probability of being rotary cut.  Think of a blade producing a continuous sheet of wood that resembles paper towels coming off of a roll.   The wood came from a curved environment and will always "want" to go back to that cupped conformation.  Wetting, pressing, ironing will just be a futile fight against Mother Nature.
Even at a distance, that hideous yellow stuff looks like crap.  It will likely not be the joy to work that an appropriate species is.
It appears that the ZHL episode was not the aberration that I was hoping it was.  

It is also possible that knowledge and lessons learned give you the power and determination to persevere , when not having that chip would have lead to the easy path.
If you did it twice, that would be troubling.   At least you are not a song writer who signed over the rights to a song whose royalties could have supported you for the rest of your life.

It is also possible that knowledge and lessons learned give you the power and determination to persevere , when not having that chip would have lead to the easy path.
If you did it twice, that would be troubling.   At least you are not a song writer who signed over the rights to a song whose royalties could have supported you for the rest of your life.

The situation is probably even worse.  The veneer has a high probability of being rotary cut.  Think of a blade producing a continuous sheet of wood that resembles paper towels coming off of a roll.   The wood came from a curved environment and will always "want" to go back to that cupped conformation.  Wetting, pressing, ironing will just be a futile fight against Mother Nature.
Even at a distance, that hideous yellow stuff looks like crap.  It will likely not be the joy to work that an appropriate species is.
It appears that the ZHL episode was not the aberration that I was hoping it was.  

The situation is probably even worse.  The veneer has a high probability of being rotary cut.  Think of a blade producing a continuous sheet of wood that resembles paper towels coming off of a roll.   The wood came from a curved environment and will always "want" to go back to that cupped conformation.  Wetting, pressing, ironing will just be a futile fight against Mother Nature.
Even at a distance, that hideous yellow stuff looks like crap.  It will likely not be the joy to work that an appropriate species is.
It appears that the ZHL episode was not the aberration that I was hoping it was.  

The situation is probably even worse.  The veneer has a high probability of being rotary cut.  Think of a blade producing a continuous sheet of wood that resembles paper towels coming off of a roll.   The wood came from a curved environment and will always "want" to go back to that cupped conformation.  Wetting, pressing, ironing will just be a futile fight against Mother Nature.
Even at a distance, that hideous yellow stuff looks like crap.  It will likely not be the joy to work that an appropriate species is.
It appears that the ZHL episode was not the aberration that I was hoping it was.  

I have some old pieces of limbs from English boxwood that are great for carving but it is not nearly as yellow as in your photo.  Those piece are REALLY yellow.  If you cut a small piece, is it the same color all the way through?   Almost looks dyed😀 

Northeast US,  There are many low cost species that will work.
Looking at species that are favored for scratch clear finish wooden sailing vessels is not a productive or economical path for your needs.
Pear - Swiss Pear ( is a steam oxidized European wood )  It is expensive here.  It is difficult to source here.
Basswood is favored for architect's models because it is available precut and does not rival platinum in price. It is also soft and fuzzy.
 
Your economical choice is construction Pine (not Fir).  The endcap loss leader at Home Depot.  Pick clear with no sap.
Yellow Poplar is low cost and would do exactly what you want.
Hard Maple, Black Cherry are over kill, but like the above two also have closed pore, so save a finish step.
Nut wood species would work - Oak, Ash, Hickory, Willow - they just need a pore filling step Sand-n-Sealer.
 
Your problem is getting lumber into 1:12 scale 2x4 and 2x6  and 1x8 -1x12 clapboard.
If you do not have a bandsaw and a thickness sander and a modelers table saw,  you can make do with a full size table saw.  Just mount a hollow ground rip blade. 
Borrow the use from someone who has one and bring your own blade.  Try to avoid feeding your fingers to the saw or getting impaled by a kickback.
If you use Pine, the extra loss to kerf is something that you can stand.
 
Prime any wood with half strength Zinsser shellac - Scotch Brite- follow on with full strength - Scotch Brite and tack rag.
Then any paint will bond. 
 
 

It is a terrible choice.  It has a relatively short life. It becomes brittle and releases its bond. 
It is thick and does not allow positioning.  There is no easy way to reverse it.
 
Attach Lino to a plywood sheet for something intended to last 10 years or so - go for it.
 
PVA plus heat can become a contract cement of sorts.  A dry even coat on both meeting surfaces plus heat activates a bond.  The outside layer has to be thin enough to allow heat transfer at a temp that does not char or cook the outer layer.

It is a terrible choice.  It has a relatively short life. It becomes brittle and releases its bond. 
It is thick and does not allow positioning.  There is no easy way to reverse it.
 
Attach Lino to a plywood sheet for something intended to last 10 years or so - go for it.
 
PVA plus heat can become a contract cement of sorts.  A dry even coat on both meeting surfaces plus heat activates a bond.  The outside layer has to be thin enough to allow heat transfer at a temp that does not char or cook the outer layer.

It is a terrible choice.  It has a relatively short life. It becomes brittle and releases its bond. 
It is thick and does not allow positioning.  There is no easy way to reverse it.
 
Attach Lino to a plywood sheet for something intended to last 10 years or so - go for it.
 
PVA plus heat can become a contract cement of sorts.  A dry even coat on both meeting surfaces plus heat activates a bond.  The outside layer has to be thin enough to allow heat transfer at a temp that does not char or cook the outer layer.

I offer another ship that you might give some consideration as a subject  :  Namure 90  1756    it underwent a bit of a metamorphosis  for the Nelson Era but as launched is my choice.  There is a bit of fame attached to it now.

I offer another ship that you might give some consideration as a subject  :  Namure 90  1756    it underwent a bit of a metamorphosis  for the Nelson Era but as launched is my choice.  There is a bit of fame attached to it now.

I offer another ship that you might give some consideration as a subject  :  Namure 90  1756    it underwent a bit of a metamorphosis  for the Nelson Era but as launched is my choice.  There is a bit of fame attached to it now.

I offer another ship that you might give some consideration as a subject  :  Namure 90  1756    it underwent a bit of a metamorphosis  for the Nelson Era but as launched is my choice.  There is a bit of fame attached to it now.

I offer another ship that you might give some consideration as a subject  :  Namure 90  1756    it underwent a bit of a metamorphosis  for the Nelson Era but as launched is my choice.  There is a bit of fame attached to it now.

I offer another ship that you might give some consideration as a subject  :  Namure 90  1756    it underwent a bit of a metamorphosis  for the Nelson Era but as launched is my choice.  There is a bit of fame attached to it now.

The choices
Linen seems to be lost into the past. 
Cotton - limited lifespan - smaller fibers -smaller fuzz
Poly - seems to be winning the race.   As long as the model itself is plastic, any resistance to using man-made materials is moot.
 
Poly already is what a wax would provide.  Wax seems to me to be pointless.  If it is beeswax on it - I would question it ever case hardening to become NOT a dust magnet.
Paraffin  would change its phase with changes in room temp.  The semi liquid phase would also hold dust.
Renaissance wax will case harden as its organic solvent evaporates.   It is probably more positive than negative for linen and cotton.  It would offer no advantage with poly.