Jaager

It is the nature of most wooden ship model kits that inferior stock lumber can be
easily replaced with better species of wood provided by vendors whose links are here.
The additional expense is not consequential when measured against the joy of working
with quality materials.  The fittings can be similarly replaced - or self fabricated. 
The skills and practice involved can become a major step in not needed to depend on
kits as a vessel choice.
 
 

Micro Mark still has it online for $140.  Is that an inflated price?

Get a closet hanger dowel from a local hardware store.
The smaller dowels are often too dogleggy - or get that way -
to use as spars.

If you intend to pursue this into many more vessels:
consider obtaining various sizes of micro chisels
they come with either palm or straight handles
which one is based on your comfort.
Flexcut , U.J.Ramelson  , Mastercarver  are some manufacturers
of chisels and gouges in a variety of smaller widths. 
They tend to be $25 +/_ $10 each - thus not a frivolous expenditure.
 
For a one off or occasional use.  Xacto and similar have disposable micro blades
that can do the job.  The gouge sizes are limited as a disposable item and
they are probably to be preferred for safe removal of wood volume.
 
In every instance, but especially with Basswood - keep the edges very sharp.
Unless you nick the edge, frequent use of a honing stone is not necessary - if at all.
It is usually sufficient to strop after every few cuts on a piece of scrap leather
that is charged with a fine compound like red rouge - green Al oxide - Flexcut Gold.
They come as sticks and are used like a crayon on the leather.
Wrist rotation should do for stropping a gouge on a flat leather surface, since it is
a pull motion.

Although there is no joy in using filling frames from our perspective, what with their strength
being dependent on the weakest of glue joints - end grain to end grain,  in the actual vessels
liberal use of connecting chocks was probably the practice.  Some removed after the horizontal
planks and some partial chocks possibly remained.  In some instances, even the bends had a gap
above the floor timbers - which points to chocks being necessary.  The resulting structure was
probably a lot stronger by itself than we would suppose.  Ugly but strong.
 
Mark,  with R & S being 21.75 inches and the room published as 20 inches, I would feel some pain
as to how it would look in an exposed state.  I like the look of the space being 30-35% of the total.
For the look, I would want 7.5 x 7.5 x 6.75 .  MY OC tendency would fight me on this.
 
Of late, I have been exploring various USN Sloop-of-War and lofting them.  The framing is anything but
consistent when Chapelle's R&S is matched with scantling tables (Meade mostly) or the contract in HASN.
 
 
name                                R&S                 framing choice
Germantown                     30"                  10 x 10 x 10
Vincennes                          26"                  10 x 10 x  6
Peacock II                          25.5                10 x 10 x  5.5
Jamestown                         31"                 11 x 11 x 9
Warren                               23.31              10.5 x 10.5 x 2.31     (contract)
 
A curious part of Warren =  The space between the frames was filled with Fir or similar between the keel and
the riders at the head of the floors so that no ceiling was used - but it was still solid for stowage. 

If you intend to pursue this into many more vessels:
consider obtaining various sizes of micro chisels
they come with either palm or straight handles
which one is based on your comfort.
Flexcut , U.J.Ramelson  , Mastercarver  are some manufacturers
of chisels and gouges in a variety of smaller widths. 
They tend to be $25 +/_ $10 each - thus not a frivolous expenditure.
 
For a one off or occasional use.  Xacto and similar have disposable micro blades
that can do the job.  The gouge sizes are limited as a disposable item and
they are probably to be preferred for safe removal of wood volume.
 
In every instance, but especially with Basswood - keep the edges very sharp.
Unless you nick the edge, frequent use of a honing stone is not necessary - if at all.
It is usually sufficient to strop after every few cuts on a piece of scrap leather
that is charged with a fine compound like red rouge - green Al oxide - Flexcut Gold.
They come as sticks and are used like a crayon on the leather.
Wrist rotation should do for stropping a gouge on a flat leather surface, since it is
a pull motion.

Get a closet hanger dowel from a local hardware store.
The smaller dowels are often too dogleggy - or get that way -
to use as spars.

As a general rule, to get Holly that has not been infected with Blue Mold, it must be harvested in Winter and immediately billeted and  moved to a kiln.
Depending on the tree, the wood would then be near white or yellow.  The mold infected wood is light blue or grey.  If the color is not a problem,
the wood is otherwise sound and fine to use.  This is not the situation with Apple.  While far less invasive, Apple that has been attacked by fungus
is mealy and crumbles.  It runs in streaks and is a much lighter color.  I am thinking that for a working vessel as opposed to a showcase flagship, a grey
Holly may be more realistic that the white Holly or Soft Maple, which is close to white.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/mixol-tint-oxide-white-20-ml?via=573621f469702d06760016d0%2C5764234669702d6593003339
 

 
Rather than using a destructive chemical reaction - bleaching - why not cheat ?
For $6 you could experiment with a dilute tint.  Try it in 91% Isopropyl rubbing alcohol.
Dries fast -does not raise the grain.  Given scale effect - less intense is better -
something a bit more than a hint of white.  Hard Maple or Holly should do well as the
substrate.
  

Hydrogen peroxide is available in several concentrations:
3%  is available in pharmacies - wound care and such
6% - 9% - 12%  ( 20 vol - 30 vol  - 40 vol )  is used for hair care
85-96%  is used as a propellant for rockets, torpedo , etc.  readily
decomposes to steam and oxygen - violent and dangerous in the extreme.
 
I wonder if 3% would have much effect at all?  My guess is that 40 volume
will have the best chance of success but will also damage the structure of
the wood it contacts.

Get a closet hanger dowel from a local hardware store.
The smaller dowels are often too dogleggy - or get that way -
to use as spars.

If you intend to pursue this into many more vessels:
consider obtaining various sizes of micro chisels
they come with either palm or straight handles
which one is based on your comfort.
Flexcut , U.J.Ramelson  , Mastercarver  are some manufacturers
of chisels and gouges in a variety of smaller widths. 
They tend to be $25 +/_ $10 each - thus not a frivolous expenditure.
 
For a one off or occasional use.  Xacto and similar have disposable micro blades
that can do the job.  The gouge sizes are limited as a disposable item and
they are probably to be preferred for safe removal of wood volume.
 
In every instance, but especially with Basswood - keep the edges very sharp.
Unless you nick the edge, frequent use of a honing stone is not necessary - if at all.
It is usually sufficient to strop after every few cuts on a piece of scrap leather
that is charged with a fine compound like red rouge - green Al oxide - Flexcut Gold.
They come as sticks and are used like a crayon on the leather.
Wrist rotation should do for stropping a gouge on a flat leather surface, since it is
a pull motion.

If you intend to pursue this into many more vessels:
consider obtaining various sizes of micro chisels
they come with either palm or straight handles
which one is based on your comfort.
Flexcut , U.J.Ramelson  , Mastercarver  are some manufacturers
of chisels and gouges in a variety of smaller widths. 
They tend to be $25 +/_ $10 each - thus not a frivolous expenditure.
 
For a one off or occasional use.  Xacto and similar have disposable micro blades
that can do the job.  The gouge sizes are limited as a disposable item and
they are probably to be preferred for safe removal of wood volume.
 
In every instance, but especially with Basswood - keep the edges very sharp.
Unless you nick the edge, frequent use of a honing stone is not necessary - if at all.
It is usually sufficient to strop after every few cuts on a piece of scrap leather
that is charged with a fine compound like red rouge - green Al oxide - Flexcut Gold.
They come as sticks and are used like a crayon on the leather.
Wrist rotation should do for stropping a gouge on a flat leather surface, since it is
a pull motion.

Get a closet hanger dowel from a local hardware store.
The smaller dowels are often too dogleggy - or get that way -
to use as spars.

If you intend to pursue this into many more vessels:
consider obtaining various sizes of micro chisels
they come with either palm or straight handles
which one is based on your comfort.
Flexcut , U.J.Ramelson  , Mastercarver  are some manufacturers
of chisels and gouges in a variety of smaller widths. 
They tend to be $25 +/_ $10 each - thus not a frivolous expenditure.
 
For a one off or occasional use.  Xacto and similar have disposable micro blades
that can do the job.  The gouge sizes are limited as a disposable item and
they are probably to be preferred for safe removal of wood volume.
 
In every instance, but especially with Basswood - keep the edges very sharp.
Unless you nick the edge, frequent use of a honing stone is not necessary - if at all.
It is usually sufficient to strop after every few cuts on a piece of scrap leather
that is charged with a fine compound like red rouge - green Al oxide - Flexcut Gold.
They come as sticks and are used like a crayon on the leather.
Wrist rotation should do for stropping a gouge on a flat leather surface, since it is
a pull motion.

If you intend to pursue this into many more vessels:
consider obtaining various sizes of micro chisels
they come with either palm or straight handles
which one is based on your comfort.
Flexcut , U.J.Ramelson  , Mastercarver  are some manufacturers
of chisels and gouges in a variety of smaller widths. 
They tend to be $25 +/_ $10 each - thus not a frivolous expenditure.
 
For a one off or occasional use.  Xacto and similar have disposable micro blades
that can do the job.  The gouge sizes are limited as a disposable item and
they are probably to be preferred for safe removal of wood volume.
 
In every instance, but especially with Basswood - keep the edges very sharp.
Unless you nick the edge, frequent use of a honing stone is not necessary - if at all.
It is usually sufficient to strop after every few cuts on a piece of scrap leather
that is charged with a fine compound like red rouge - green Al oxide - Flexcut Gold.
They come as sticks and are used like a crayon on the leather.
Wrist rotation should do for stropping a gouge on a flat leather surface, since it is
a pull motion.

As a general rule, to get Holly that has not been infected with Blue Mold, it must be harvested in Winter and immediately billeted and  moved to a kiln.
Depending on the tree, the wood would then be near white or yellow.  The mold infected wood is light blue or grey.  If the color is not a problem,
the wood is otherwise sound and fine to use.  This is not the situation with Apple.  While far less invasive, Apple that has been attacked by fungus
is mealy and crumbles.  It runs in streaks and is a much lighter color.  I am thinking that for a working vessel as opposed to a showcase flagship, a grey
Holly may be more realistic that the white Holly or Soft Maple, which is close to white.

I have seen the alternating futtock 1 arrangement in a book or two, but with Beagle, the
filling frames had either a floor timber or a crossing piece over the keel - depending on
how they fell.  Because there is a odd number of frames, the bends alternate floors
as the member on the fore side.  The floors and F1 always alternate. 
 
I just spent too much time at NMM site looks at framing patterns for the first 1000 or so plans.
The bend- then two filling pattern seems to be the rule as it is also presented in Steel and Rees.
But often, the floors/F1 are almost solid at the keel.  Some times the bend pair stays together
and other examples show about as much separation as the filling frames.  In all cases the sided volume
that is open is a small proportion of the total - even at the sheer.  Marquardt's graphic shows more open
area than any plan I saw at NMM.  
 
To my eye, a model with framing showing that exactly follows the NMM plans would not be attractive at all.
Below the wale, it be close to a solid wall.  That said, the Davis convention of all paired with timber =
space looks a bit sparce.
 
The NMM plans - what few came up in the first 1000 - F1 -  bottom half butts deadwood ( even mid ship)
and the top half is a substantial chock.  No data on long arm/ short arm F1 over the keel.
 
As an aside, in Commerce de Marseille, ( all paired frames)  Delacroix doubles the incidence of floor timbers
at mid ship so that the floor timber always faces the center of the ship in every pair.
 
 

As a general rule, to get Holly that has not been infected with Blue Mold, it must be harvested in Winter and immediately billeted and  moved to a kiln.
Depending on the tree, the wood would then be near white or yellow.  The mold infected wood is light blue or grey.  If the color is not a problem,
the wood is otherwise sound and fine to use.  This is not the situation with Apple.  While far less invasive, Apple that has been attacked by fungus
is mealy and crumbles.  It runs in streaks and is a much lighter color.  I am thinking that for a working vessel as opposed to a showcase flagship, a grey
Holly may be more realistic that the white Holly or Soft Maple, which is close to white.

Hydrogen peroxide is available in several concentrations:
3%  is available in pharmacies - wound care and such
6% - 9% - 12%  ( 20 vol - 30 vol  - 40 vol )  is used for hair care
85-96%  is used as a propellant for rockets, torpedo , etc.  readily
decomposes to steam and oxygen - violent and dangerous in the extreme.
 
I wonder if 3% would have much effect at all?  My guess is that 40 volume
will have the best chance of success but will also damage the structure of
the wood it contacts.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/mixol-tint-oxide-white-20-ml?via=573621f469702d06760016d0%2C5764234669702d6593003339
 

 
Rather than using a destructive chemical reaction - bleaching - why not cheat ?
For $6 you could experiment with a dilute tint.  Try it in 91% Isopropyl rubbing alcohol.
Dries fast -does not raise the grain.  Given scale effect - less intense is better -
something a bit more than a hint of white.  Hard Maple or Holly should do well as the
substrate.
  

In the AOTS volume covering Caroline, Bellabarba and Osculati have 2 paired frames  then two filling frames with a significant space volume between them.
The also show a chock connecting ends of the first futtocks over the keel. Looking again - in another deck view, they show all paired frames with a
space that is equal to half of the sided dimension of the paired frame.
 
I have not seen any framing patterns from English sources that have as many filling frames as you have proposed in your first paragraph.
The q3 frames is not a commonly used presentation, at least in warships - which Caroline is not.
The usual pattern is q2 to q4  stations per frame.   Towards the middle of the 19C.  the USN draftsmen seem to have gotten lazy and in
the mid ship region used q6 and then q8.
 
The ideal would be to have the upper works framing as light as practical and with a yacht more of this could be done.
Some proposals:
In warships, the topside framing would provide some protection from gun fire, so more would be used.
In the AOTS of HMS Beagle, Marquardt has one filling frame for every two paired frame sets.  The English tended to have narrow frame spaces.
In thinking about your question I think I may have a reason for the filling frames:  The thicker the framing timbers the longer it takes for the stock
to season,  With filling frames, the sided dimension of the true frames could be reduced by an inch or two and save a couple of years of seasoning 
 =  +/- 20% in the rule-of-thumb dimensions - probably a reasonable trade off.
 
There is an additional pattern with the first futtocks:   I think it more frequently used in France and North America = half floors or cross pieces.
These were about half the length of the floors.  Marquardt shows this with HMS Beagle, so it seems that the English used it. 
I see two advantages:  a reduction in the length of the timber saving resources  and  moving a potential weak point with hogging stress from the
midline to a more lateral location.

Hydrogen peroxide is available in several concentrations:
3%  is available in pharmacies - wound care and such
6% - 9% - 12%  ( 20 vol - 30 vol  - 40 vol )  is used for hair care
85-96%  is used as a propellant for rockets, torpedo , etc.  readily
decomposes to steam and oxygen - violent and dangerous in the extreme.
 
I wonder if 3% would have much effect at all?  My guess is that 40 volume
will have the best chance of success but will also damage the structure of
the wood it contacts.

Hydrogen peroxide is available in several concentrations:
3%  is available in pharmacies - wound care and such
6% - 9% - 12%  ( 20 vol - 30 vol  - 40 vol )  is used for hair care
85-96%  is used as a propellant for rockets, torpedo , etc.  readily
decomposes to steam and oxygen - violent and dangerous in the extreme.
 
I wonder if 3% would have much effect at all?  My guess is that 40 volume
will have the best chance of success but will also damage the structure of
the wood it contacts.

As a general rule, to get Holly that has not been infected with Blue Mold, it must be harvested in Winter and immediately billeted and  moved to a kiln.
Depending on the tree, the wood would then be near white or yellow.  The mold infected wood is light blue or grey.  If the color is not a problem,
the wood is otherwise sound and fine to use.  This is not the situation with Apple.  While far less invasive, Apple that has been attacked by fungus
is mealy and crumbles.  It runs in streaks and is a much lighter color.  I am thinking that for a working vessel as opposed to a showcase flagship, a grey
Holly may be more realistic that the white Holly or Soft Maple, which is close to white.