Jaager
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Jaager got a reaction from Landlocked123 in In Praise Of Lacquer
My take on lacquer:
Spraying is the preferred method of application.
It is available for brush application.
It can develop into layer that has significant thickness.
I use it to coat timber patterns from my printer.
Three coats produces a pattern that is similar to having the patterns printed on Mylar.
I have over come my compulsion and only apply one coat now.
It dries fast and a repeat coat can be applied after 2 hrs when brushed. Spray may have a shorter time.
The solvent is an irritating gemisch of organic chemicals. There is a "green" version of lacquer thinner, but I
do not find it any less obnoxious that the standard tinner. While a mask may protect against airborne material,
when sprayed. it will not protect from the solvent vapors. They are a gas as is air. If you can breathe thru the
mask, the solvent vapor will also get thru. You need a separate air supply when spraying or good ventilation
when brushed.
I think shellac, and the oils like Tung and linseed form much thinner layers.
The problem I have with lacquer is the finish is too thick on a model, it is usually too glossy and would have a model
looking like a toy instead of a subtle piece of art.
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Jaager got a reaction from Julie Mo in In Praise Of Lacquer
Steve is correct - I am focused on 16th c. to 19th c. - And for a lot of later vessels that do have high gloss on the original - when viewed from a distance that approximates the size of a model - often do not appear as glossy and paint colors are not as intense. I think this is an aspect of scale effect.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in In Praise Of Lacquer
My take on lacquer:
Spraying is the preferred method of application.
It is available for brush application.
It can develop into layer that has significant thickness.
I use it to coat timber patterns from my printer.
Three coats produces a pattern that is similar to having the patterns printed on Mylar.
I have over come my compulsion and only apply one coat now.
It dries fast and a repeat coat can be applied after 2 hrs when brushed. Spray may have a shorter time.
The solvent is an irritating gemisch of organic chemicals. There is a "green" version of lacquer thinner, but I
do not find it any less obnoxious that the standard tinner. While a mask may protect against airborne material,
when sprayed. it will not protect from the solvent vapors. They are a gas as is air. If you can breathe thru the
mask, the solvent vapor will also get thru. You need a separate air supply when spraying or good ventilation
when brushed.
I think shellac, and the oils like Tung and linseed form much thinner layers.
The problem I have with lacquer is the finish is too thick on a model, it is usually too glossy and would have a model
looking like a toy instead of a subtle piece of art.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Proxxon MBS/E Bandsaw
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5807-proxxon-micro-mbs-240e-band-saw-review/
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Paint a copper keelson into wood
You mean that wide center support that holds the moulds/bulkheads is copper? That would solve the warping problem. Is this a small model?
I am imagining what a 2 foot long and 6 inch high piece of copper would weigh?
It is not really corresponding to any single part of a ship. Most of it occupies a space that is open in a real vessel . Backbone would be about as
close a name as any.
I guess you could try glueing as thin a piece of veneer as can be had over any part that shows- very thin 2 part epoxy or CA.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Paint a copper keelson into wood
You mean that wide center support that holds the moulds/bulkheads is copper? That would solve the warping problem. Is this a small model?
I am imagining what a 2 foot long and 6 inch high piece of copper would weigh?
It is not really corresponding to any single part of a ship. Most of it occupies a space that is open in a real vessel . Backbone would be about as
close a name as any.
I guess you could try glueing as thin a piece of veneer as can be had over any part that shows- very thin 2 part epoxy or CA.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Paint a copper keelson into wood
To be totally pedantic: there would be no reason to copper a keelson. The keelson is a a large timber or group of timbers on top of the frames at the midline of the vessel on the inside. It is a mirror of the keel - which is the part that you are asking about. While a model with a solid copper keel would be very resistant to warping, I would think that bonding it to the hull would be difficult and prone to failure after a decade or two has passed.
Copper is a reactive metal. The surface layer - even at the glue interface - may become the oxide, carbonate, or acetate salt of copper which would have the glue bonding to a powder rather than solid metal. Depending on what is used, the glue may have components that facilitate a chemical reaction.
I suspect that a lot of models with metallic copper plates that are only attached using adhesive will experience bond failure after time has worked its magic.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Scroll saw for bow pieces and frames
A Rikon 10" ( or a generic 9" ) band saw - with a Carter stabilizer - even with the limit of a 1/8" blade - sharp curves can be cut. The Rikon was on sale a lot this Summer - maybe a deal could be had still? I am not sure, but maybe the Rikon has enough power that adding a Wood Slicer 1/2" blade would add the ability to do some resawing in the 2" or lower thickness range.
Band saw blades have set, so cutting too close to the line is not what you would want to do.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Wood masts for a plastic model... Tips?
If you split out the mast and yard stock from a board of a straight grained species and shape that, it will not want to bend over time.
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Jaager got a reaction from jud in Wood masts for a plastic model... Tips?
If you split out the mast and yard stock from a board of a straight grained species and shape that, it will not want to bend over time.
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Wood masts for a plastic model... Tips?
If you split out the mast and yard stock from a board of a straight grained species and shape that, it will not want to bend over time.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Wood masts for a plastic model... Tips?
If you split out the mast and yard stock from a board of a straight grained species and shape that, it will not want to bend over time.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Scroll saw for bow pieces and frames
A Rikon 10" ( or a generic 9" ) band saw - with a Carter stabilizer - even with the limit of a 1/8" blade - sharp curves can be cut. The Rikon was on sale a lot this Summer - maybe a deal could be had still? I am not sure, but maybe the Rikon has enough power that adding a Wood Slicer 1/2" blade would add the ability to do some resawing in the 2" or lower thickness range.
Band saw blades have set, so cutting too close to the line is not what you would want to do.
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Jaager got a reaction from WackoWolf in Scroll saw for bow pieces and frames
A Rikon 10" ( or a generic 9" ) band saw - with a Carter stabilizer - even with the limit of a 1/8" blade - sharp curves can be cut. The Rikon was on sale a lot this Summer - maybe a deal could be had still? I am not sure, but maybe the Rikon has enough power that adding a Wood Slicer 1/2" blade would add the ability to do some resawing in the 2" or lower thickness range.
Band saw blades have set, so cutting too close to the line is not what you would want to do.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Can i live without a BYRNES TABLE SAW
If the veneer is thin enough, I would try a steel straight edge ( there are wide - 2" - flat ones, with a tapered edge 6" & 12" ) and a sharp #11 blade.
Cut thru or score and snap and there is no loss to kerf.
I have a Byrnes saw and find it far superior to a Jarmac or a Dremel - no comparison really. The Byrnes is a precision tool, but it is
only as good as the blades allow. A 3 or 4 inch rip blade that hollow ground would be nice to have.
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Jaager got a reaction from WackoWolf in Can i live without a BYRNES TABLE SAW
If the veneer is thin enough, I would try a steel straight edge ( there are wide - 2" - flat ones, with a tapered edge 6" & 12" ) and a sharp #11 blade.
Cut thru or score and snap and there is no loss to kerf.
I have a Byrnes saw and find it far superior to a Jarmac or a Dremel - no comparison really. The Byrnes is a precision tool, but it is
only as good as the blades allow. A 3 or 4 inch rip blade that hollow ground would be nice to have.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Can i live without a BYRNES TABLE SAW
If the veneer is thin enough, I would try a steel straight edge ( there are wide - 2" - flat ones, with a tapered edge 6" & 12" ) and a sharp #11 blade.
Cut thru or score and snap and there is no loss to kerf.
I have a Byrnes saw and find it far superior to a Jarmac or a Dremel - no comparison really. The Byrnes is a precision tool, but it is
only as good as the blades allow. A 3 or 4 inch rip blade that hollow ground would be nice to have.
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Jaager got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Questions about Plank Lengths
It is easier and efficient at the mfg level to provide the planking at lengths close to box length.
It is stock material and the actual planks should be cut off as needed in the length needed.
The longer the stock, the better, since this is efficient and produces less waste in left over - too short - material.
It would be impractical to try to predict low long to make each plank so that the end is on a mold.
The plank size and shape should be predetermined by using large index cards as material and fitting
that to the molds - starting with strips the width of the wood stock.
If a wide piece of card is laid stem to stern post - allowed to lay naturally and then cut to plank width -
it will often resemble a snake as it curves and recurves. If actual trees could have been had and handled
at those lengths, the width needed to provide the curves would lead to unacceptable waste in "spilled" material.
As for bending - doing it in the thin dimension- so that the planks lay on the molds and to not want to spring up is a good thing.
Bending thru the thick dimension is against what the wood wants to do and it will try to twist. I am guessing that kit planking
is not wide enough to allow much spilling and the unnatural bends are necessary.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Frame construction
I know it had to be that way - up to a point - but I wonder if there was a switch to butt joins where the bevel becomes significant. It would add to the pressure to use cant frames - as much of a problem as they must have been at the deadwood to shape and as weak as they were there.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Frame construction
I have the impression that scarphed frames are mainly an English technique.
On a theoretical view, using it may allow for a reduced moulded dimension of
timbering material over butt joins, If there are more workmen than thick timber,
I can sort of see the point, but I would just make the rider strakes thick instead.
If the seam and join surfaces of the scarph joint were not treated properly , would
this not be a locus of a fungal attack and rot? I suspect that butt joins had an air
gap to resist this. Could tight - near invisible butt joins be a ship model trait?
I have a question about scarph joins: what was done with timbers where there is a
significant bevel on an individual timber?
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Questions about Plank Lengths
A quick search indicates that this is a double planked POB hull. The first layer is for support and is totally covered by the outer layer.
Looks do not really matter - but avoiding hollows does. Plank length here is your choice. Longer may be better given the distance between moulds.
For the "real" planking - 20 - 25 foot length is probably realistic. The longest I have seen was for deck planking for 19th c. USN at 40'.
This was Southern Pine - those trees tend to grow tall and straight and the planking runs are straight for decks and the planks do not need to be so wide.
Look in the data base here on the NRG home page - there are planking instructions there.
Hollows can be avoided by filling the "too wide" spaces between the moulds with supporting material.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Questions about Plank Lengths
It is easier and efficient at the mfg level to provide the planking at lengths close to box length.
It is stock material and the actual planks should be cut off as needed in the length needed.
The longer the stock, the better, since this is efficient and produces less waste in left over - too short - material.
It would be impractical to try to predict low long to make each plank so that the end is on a mold.
The plank size and shape should be predetermined by using large index cards as material and fitting
that to the molds - starting with strips the width of the wood stock.
If a wide piece of card is laid stem to stern post - allowed to lay naturally and then cut to plank width -
it will often resemble a snake as it curves and recurves. If actual trees could have been had and handled
at those lengths, the width needed to provide the curves would lead to unacceptable waste in "spilled" material.
As for bending - doing it in the thin dimension- so that the planks lay on the molds and to not want to spring up is a good thing.
Bending thru the thick dimension is against what the wood wants to do and it will try to twist. I am guessing that kit planking
is not wide enough to allow much spilling and the unnatural bends are necessary.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Help with fairing Phantom solid hull
I have no insight to comment on the relative costs of scratch vs kit.
If you can work a 1" or 2" thick plank down to scale dimensions then
wood costs are not significant - the really suitable domestic species
- Hard Maple, Black Cherry, Yellow Poplar, Basswood, Birch, Beech
are not that expensive. Holly can be a bit dear. The premium domestic
- you pretty much have to obtain on the hoof - Apple, Pear, Plum, Dogwood -
depending on your luck - these can cost nothing or firewood cost as logs.
The expense is in time and a good band saw and waiting for the wood to
season.
The old traditional 17th and 18th species -boxwood- buxus sempervirens is
essentially not available. There is an exotic import substitute, but it is not
the same wood - is expensive and is tending to be hard to get. I advise
sticking with domestic species with properties that scale down nicely -
at least until you have enough experience not to have to ask.
If you are OC, the expense will be in collecting the machines.
With scratch, your choice of vessel is limited by the availability of plans.
With computers and copiers, the scale is totally your choice.
My bias is that I avoid any vessel available as a kit and certainly not at
the same scale, if it does.
The Smithsonian plans are not expensive. Some commercial plans can be.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Help with fairing Phantom solid hull
I have no insight to comment on the relative costs of scratch vs kit.
If you can work a 1" or 2" thick plank down to scale dimensions then
wood costs are not significant - the really suitable domestic species
- Hard Maple, Black Cherry, Yellow Poplar, Basswood, Birch, Beech
are not that expensive. Holly can be a bit dear. The premium domestic
- you pretty much have to obtain on the hoof - Apple, Pear, Plum, Dogwood -
depending on your luck - these can cost nothing or firewood cost as logs.
The expense is in time and a good band saw and waiting for the wood to
season.
The old traditional 17th and 18th species -boxwood- buxus sempervirens is
essentially not available. There is an exotic import substitute, but it is not
the same wood - is expensive and is tending to be hard to get. I advise
sticking with domestic species with properties that scale down nicely -
at least until you have enough experience not to have to ask.
If you are OC, the expense will be in collecting the machines.
With scratch, your choice of vessel is limited by the availability of plans.
With computers and copiers, the scale is totally your choice.
My bias is that I avoid any vessel available as a kit and certainly not at
the same scale, if it does.
The Smithsonian plans are not expensive. Some commercial plans can be.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Help with fairing Phantom solid hull
If you trace the outline of the keel- stem- sternpost assembly and rubber cement it to thick cardboard or a piece of corrugated box - trim it to the inside dimension - fit it to the hull:
the hull is longer - trim the skeg back and it may be the 1/8" needed.
the hull is correct, just too thin -- glue a temporary sternpost that is the correct size - use liquid hide glue- fill out the skeg with a filler like Bondo and fair the hull. Once the shape matches the templates, the temp post can be removed - heat gun/hair dryer and water or rubbing alcohol that is 91% ethanol will undo the hide glue. The real unmarred post can now be fitted.
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