Jaager

It is probably the wrong way, but my scrapers pull up more wood after I work the 3 planes on my leather strop charged with gold compd.  The narrow edge - back and forth along its long dimension.  If it does not work, the worst you can do is polish it.

This is an individualistic class of tools.  They are probably useful most often for shaping and hollowing hulls from the solid or from laminated components.
 
There is a wide variety of sizes and shapes - depending on the sort of cut you are making.  There are straight handle and palm handle.
 
You can spend a lot of money if you are of a mind.   A set may seem handy, but given the nature of what we do as opposed to sculpture carving, you may well have several blades that you will never use.   I advise waiting until you get to the point where you need one, see what is available and order one or two blades - until you get comfortable with this class of tools.
 
Good steel that will hold an edge is key.
U.I. Ramelson  and Flexcut both make a variety of chisels using good quality steel and an individual unit will not break the bank.
You can see the variety available at MHCrafters and Wood Carvers Supply,Inc.
 
Broken record here:  you can keep a very sharp edge for a long time using a scrap piece of leather and Flexcut Gold or rouge stropping compd.  The blade will last longer because you are removing a micro layer instead of measurable metal with a stone.  As a rule, you usually do not need to reshape an edge unless you you nick it by cutting something that you shouldn't.

This is an individualistic class of tools.  They are probably useful most often for shaping and hollowing hulls from the solid or from laminated components.
 
There is a wide variety of sizes and shapes - depending on the sort of cut you are making.  There are straight handle and palm handle.
 
You can spend a lot of money if you are of a mind.   A set may seem handy, but given the nature of what we do as opposed to sculpture carving, you may well have several blades that you will never use.   I advise waiting until you get to the point where you need one, see what is available and order one or two blades - until you get comfortable with this class of tools.
 
Good steel that will hold an edge is key.
U.I. Ramelson  and Flexcut both make a variety of chisels using good quality steel and an individual unit will not break the bank.
You can see the variety available at MHCrafters and Wood Carvers Supply,Inc.
 
Broken record here:  you can keep a very sharp edge for a long time using a scrap piece of leather and Flexcut Gold or rouge stropping compd.  The blade will last longer because you are removing a micro layer instead of measurable metal with a stone.  As a rule, you usually do not need to reshape an edge unless you you nick it by cutting something that you shouldn't.

Were it an actual full size Chris Craft that you would be working on and you had enough, you would be having great good fortune.
 
It is likely to be open pore ( several species are sold as mahogany ) and this makes it look distorted when scaled down.
 
Black Cherry ( depending on the actual tree ) can be very close in color.  You can also dye a light species ( Maple, Yellow Poplar, Basswood ) to the match mahogany.  This would avoid the open pore problem.
 
A bench top band saw - the probability is that it is under powered to do serious resawing. I have a 3/4 hp  Emco 3 wheel and it has a difficult time.  If the wood is in plank form, the table saw may handle it.  Mahogany is not a dense wood, so it would be less work,  I had to flip and make 2 cuts to get 3 inch planks using a 10 inch table saw - it kept tripping the circuit breaker at 3 inch depth.
 
My wish would be a 2 hp 14 inch band saw, but I did not have a 220 v outlet wired in my garage, so I would have to settle for a 1 3/4 hp 110 v,  but given my age, it is not practical as well as no room without a major interior redo.

This is an individualistic class of tools.  They are probably useful most often for shaping and hollowing hulls from the solid or from laminated components.
 
There is a wide variety of sizes and shapes - depending on the sort of cut you are making.  There are straight handle and palm handle.
 
You can spend a lot of money if you are of a mind.   A set may seem handy, but given the nature of what we do as opposed to sculpture carving, you may well have several blades that you will never use.   I advise waiting until you get to the point where you need one, see what is available and order one or two blades - until you get comfortable with this class of tools.
 
Good steel that will hold an edge is key.
U.I. Ramelson  and Flexcut both make a variety of chisels using good quality steel and an individual unit will not break the bank.
You can see the variety available at MHCrafters and Wood Carvers Supply,Inc.
 
Broken record here:  you can keep a very sharp edge for a long time using a scrap piece of leather and Flexcut Gold or rouge stropping compd.  The blade will last longer because you are removing a micro layer instead of measurable metal with a stone.  As a rule, you usually do not need to reshape an edge unless you you nick it by cutting something that you shouldn't.

The difference between sanding and scraping =  sanding fills the pores on the surface with saw dust. scraping - they are open.  This is important for violins and guitars - not sure about ship models.
 
 
I use single edge razor blades for deck scraping also.
A 5 inch wall scraper blade has uses.  I recently made a handle for mine from a 1x 5x 5/16 piece of hardwood.  Cut a slit for the blade and drilled a hole to match the one in the blade.
 
For heavier scraping, I have use a steel set sold by Lemuel Violins.  It is 7 shapes and the size is right for 1:48 - 1:100 scale range.
https://www.violins.ca/tools/tools_cutting.html

As an aside and not necessarily a recommendation for a beginner, I have found the new Dremel 8050 drill to be useful - not heavy and no wire to drag.  I do not use it to mill cut, but as a drill, it is fine.  It does not come with the needed range of collets and I wish it would "remember" the last RPM setting.
 
Harbor Freight has a DC rotary drill for $10 - but unless you are drilling holes in a stick of room temp butter, I don't know what something with so little power would do.
 
For cutting out planks from thin stock, a 6 inch metal cutting guide helps avoid cutting what you don't want cut.  
A box of 100 high quality #11 blades. 
 
If you ever get into POF scratch building - a true flat surface is needed for frame assembly.  A piece of 1/4" bevel ground edge safety glass provides this.  Mine is 18" x 12".

This is an individualistic class of tools.  They are probably useful most often for shaping and hollowing hulls from the solid or from laminated components.
 
There is a wide variety of sizes and shapes - depending on the sort of cut you are making.  There are straight handle and palm handle.
 
You can spend a lot of money if you are of a mind.   A set may seem handy, but given the nature of what we do as opposed to sculpture carving, you may well have several blades that you will never use.   I advise waiting until you get to the point where you need one, see what is available and order one or two blades - until you get comfortable with this class of tools.
 
Good steel that will hold an edge is key.
U.I. Ramelson  and Flexcut both make a variety of chisels using good quality steel and an individual unit will not break the bank.
You can see the variety available at MHCrafters and Wood Carvers Supply,Inc.
 
Broken record here:  you can keep a very sharp edge for a long time using a scrap piece of leather and Flexcut Gold or rouge stropping compd.  The blade will last longer because you are removing a micro layer instead of measurable metal with a stone.  As a rule, you usually do not need to reshape an edge unless you you nick it by cutting something that you shouldn't.

This is an individualistic class of tools.  They are probably useful most often for shaping and hollowing hulls from the solid or from laminated components.
 
There is a wide variety of sizes and shapes - depending on the sort of cut you are making.  There are straight handle and palm handle.
 
You can spend a lot of money if you are of a mind.   A set may seem handy, but given the nature of what we do as opposed to sculpture carving, you may well have several blades that you will never use.   I advise waiting until you get to the point where you need one, see what is available and order one or two blades - until you get comfortable with this class of tools.
 
Good steel that will hold an edge is key.
U.I. Ramelson  and Flexcut both make a variety of chisels using good quality steel and an individual unit will not break the bank.
You can see the variety available at MHCrafters and Wood Carvers Supply,Inc.
 
Broken record here:  you can keep a very sharp edge for a long time using a scrap piece of leather and Flexcut Gold or rouge stropping compd.  The blade will last longer because you are removing a micro layer instead of measurable metal with a stone.  As a rule, you usually do not need to reshape an edge unless you you nick it by cutting something that you shouldn't.

This is an individualistic class of tools.  They are probably useful most often for shaping and hollowing hulls from the solid or from laminated components.
 
There is a wide variety of sizes and shapes - depending on the sort of cut you are making.  There are straight handle and palm handle.
 
You can spend a lot of money if you are of a mind.   A set may seem handy, but given the nature of what we do as opposed to sculpture carving, you may well have several blades that you will never use.   I advise waiting until you get to the point where you need one, see what is available and order one or two blades - until you get comfortable with this class of tools.
 
Good steel that will hold an edge is key.
U.I. Ramelson  and Flexcut both make a variety of chisels using good quality steel and an individual unit will not break the bank.
You can see the variety available at MHCrafters and Wood Carvers Supply,Inc.
 
Broken record here:  you can keep a very sharp edge for a long time using a scrap piece of leather and Flexcut Gold or rouge stropping compd.  The blade will last longer because you are removing a micro layer instead of measurable metal with a stone.  As a rule, you usually do not need to reshape an edge unless you you nick it by cutting something that you shouldn't.

As an aside and not necessarily a recommendation for a beginner, I have found the new Dremel 8050 drill to be useful - not heavy and no wire to drag.  I do not use it to mill cut, but as a drill, it is fine.  It does not come with the needed range of collets and I wish it would "remember" the last RPM setting.
 
Harbor Freight has a DC rotary drill for $10 - but unless you are drilling holes in a stick of room temp butter, I don't know what something with so little power would do.
 
For cutting out planks from thin stock, a 6 inch metal cutting guide helps avoid cutting what you don't want cut.  
A box of 100 high quality #11 blades. 
 
If you ever get into POF scratch building - a true flat surface is needed for frame assembly.  A piece of 1/4" bevel ground edge safety glass provides this.  Mine is 18" x 12".

The difference between sanding and scraping =  sanding fills the pores on the surface with saw dust. scraping - they are open.  This is important for violins and guitars - not sure about ship models.
 
 
I use single edge razor blades for deck scraping also.
A 5 inch wall scraper blade has uses.  I recently made a handle for mine from a 1x 5x 5/16 piece of hardwood.  Cut a slit for the blade and drilled a hole to match the one in the blade.
 
For heavier scraping, I have use a steel set sold by Lemuel Violins.  It is 7 shapes and the size is right for 1:48 - 1:100 scale range.
https://www.violins.ca/tools/tools_cutting.html

The difference between sanding and scraping =  sanding fills the pores on the surface with saw dust. scraping - they are open.  This is important for violins and guitars - not sure about ship models.
 
 
I use single edge razor blades for deck scraping also.
A 5 inch wall scraper blade has uses.  I recently made a handle for mine from a 1x 5x 5/16 piece of hardwood.  Cut a slit for the blade and drilled a hole to match the one in the blade.
 
For heavier scraping, I have use a steel set sold by Lemuel Violins.  It is 7 shapes and the size is right for 1:48 - 1:100 scale range.
https://www.violins.ca/tools/tools_cutting.html

As an aside and not necessarily a recommendation for a beginner, I have found the new Dremel 8050 drill to be useful - not heavy and no wire to drag.  I do not use it to mill cut, but as a drill, it is fine.  It does not come with the needed range of collets and I wish it would "remember" the last RPM setting.
 
Harbor Freight has a DC rotary drill for $10 - but unless you are drilling holes in a stick of room temp butter, I don't know what something with so little power would do.
 
For cutting out planks from thin stock, a 6 inch metal cutting guide helps avoid cutting what you don't want cut.  
A box of 100 high quality #11 blades. 
 
If you ever get into POF scratch building - a true flat surface is needed for frame assembly.  A piece of 1/4" bevel ground edge safety glass provides this.  Mine is 18" x 12".

The difference between sanding and scraping =  sanding fills the pores on the surface with saw dust. scraping - they are open.  This is important for violins and guitars - not sure about ship models.
 
 
I use single edge razor blades for deck scraping also.
A 5 inch wall scraper blade has uses.  I recently made a handle for mine from a 1x 5x 5/16 piece of hardwood.  Cut a slit for the blade and drilled a hole to match the one in the blade.
 
For heavier scraping, I have use a steel set sold by Lemuel Violins.  It is 7 shapes and the size is right for 1:48 - 1:100 scale range.
https://www.violins.ca/tools/tools_cutting.html

More water resistant - especially Titebond II - I think the bond is stronger - For me, it dries hard and sands well.
I think it can be diluted if you need a thinner medium, but the limit is probably 1 part water to 9 parts PVA.
 
The open time is reasonable.  The bond is actually stronger than the wood it holds - if the surfaces to be jointed are close fitting. That is a skill be focus on.
 
A rule that I use is - the more force used in clamping - the stronger the bond.   The demonstrator in the Gerstner tool chest instructional video gave advise that I think is wrong about tight clamping squeezing out too much glue making the joint weaker.  If there is a mono layer of glue completely covering both surfaces to be joined - there is enough glue - You will crush the wood surface on the clamp side and ruin the surface before you could squeeze out too much glue.  If you are gap filling  - there will be no force to expel that glue either.
 
I totally concur about an Optivisor  vs  a swing arm lamp with a magnifying lens.  I have two - one oval fluorescent  and one incandescent - that I replaced with a spiral fluorescent.   I do do use the magnifying function for either.   I suggest a couple of swing arm lamps that are just lights - use the brightest LED bulbs you can fit-   The base can either clamp to the edge of the bench top - screw into it - or there are lamps that will mount on a vertical surface - like the wall behind the bench - which is probably more efficient for position and use of bench space - if the bench is is fixed location.
Low cost swing arm lamps tend to be frustrating because the pivot point locations tend not to hold their positions.  The lens tends to just add weight to the end of the lever arm and add to this problem.
 

Good quality single edge razor blades.
Consider Yellow PVA glue rather than white.
A hand fret saw and a variety pack of blades if your kit requires you to free components from a printed sheet.
A piece of leather and a bar of rouge or gold stropping compound -  you can maintain a sharp edge for a long time before using a stone if you strop frequently and do not mar the edge by cutting something harder than it is.

I read a few reviews on Amazon - the new product does not seem to be something you would want to use.  A more course texture with ceramic inclusions does not sound good.
 
Why not use wood flour mixed with PVA?  You and mix a dye with the fine saw dust or use a wood species that is already the shade that you wish.  Mix up as much as you need just at the time - no storage problems.

Realizing that it reflects North American practice rather than English, but in the Appendix of HASN, Chapelle includes a contract for two 600 ton Sloops of War for 1828.  The interesting factor for the deck is that for both the decking and the waterways it calls for planks averaging 40 feet in length.  It means that if you wish, your deck need not be so "busy" as far as the number of butt joints.
 
.I will repeat what I posted in Jan.  from the rules of the organization that was essentially the American version of Lloyds and probably used the rules from London as a basis for their own:
 
Record of American and Foreign Shipping
                         of
American Shipmasters' Association
                   1870  &  1885
 
Deck Plank
section 25.
 
The upper or main deck planking should be of the greatest obtainable length,
and free from defects, close-jointed and fastened with two spikes in each beam,
and one in each carling.  No butts of adjoining plank should be nearer each other
than the space of two beams ( when a strake intervenes the distance of one beam
will be allowed).  No butts should meet on the same beam, unless there be three
strakes between them.
 
Although this is from 1870, the properties of wood did not change, so these rules probably fit from 1650 on.

Realizing that it reflects North American practice rather than English, but in the Appendix of HASN, Chapelle includes a contract for two 600 ton Sloops of War for 1828.  The interesting factor for the deck is that for both the decking and the waterways it calls for planks averaging 40 feet in length.  It means that if you wish, your deck need not be so "busy" as far as the number of butt joints.
 
.I will repeat what I posted in Jan.  from the rules of the organization that was essentially the American version of Lloyds and probably used the rules from London as a basis for their own:
 
Record of American and Foreign Shipping
                         of
American Shipmasters' Association
                   1870  &  1885
 
Deck Plank
section 25.
 
The upper or main deck planking should be of the greatest obtainable length,
and free from defects, close-jointed and fastened with two spikes in each beam,
and one in each carling.  No butts of adjoining plank should be nearer each other
than the space of two beams ( when a strake intervenes the distance of one beam
will be allowed).  No butts should meet on the same beam, unless there be three
strakes between them.
 
Although this is from 1870, the properties of wood did not change, so these rules probably fit from 1650 on.

Did you use a 50% solution as a first coat?  The most common method that I am familiar with is the seal the wood with 1:1 Tung oil: Mineral Spirit and when this is dry, wipe on light layers of straight Tung oil and let them dry between coats.  Ambient temp would affect the time interval.
The primer coat can also be 50% shellac -  the actual concentration would depend on your shellac source.  Orange shellac is (I think) 20 lb cut, but comes already in solution  - that means 20 lb to a gallon of alcohol - my rough  round up conversion is 20% solution.
I use Super Blonde flakes.  The refining removes impurities which affects the solubility - the max concentration I can get of this is 10% and therefore the primer coat is a 5% solution.  There are very low cost electronic balances now - so it is easy to weigh 5 g and add this to 100 ml 2-propanol (100%) - too much water in the rubbing alcohol concentrations (50/70/91 %) .  
 
You could start try removing some of the Tung oil with straight Mineral Spirits or turpentine and start over, but waiting a few weeks for the O2 to penetrate your too thick layer  and work its polymerizing magic is easier.  
 
I am thinking that pure Tung oil is not an ideal finish for a working surface.  A carving, a ship model, a wall surface - are great, but a surface subject to wear is likely not going to react like you would like. 
 
Here is a quote from Garrett Wade about Sutherland Welles pre-polymerized Tung oil products -  unfortunately this source is US only
 
"Tung oil is recognized as the finest oil finish available. However, most so-called Tung oil finishes on the market have been adulterated with varnishes, lower cost soy oils, and/or urethane additives. This makes the finish somewhat cheaper and easier to use, but sacrifices the special qualities of Tung oil. Pure Tung oil provides a tough, hard surface that is absolutely waterproof, and impervious to dust, alcohol, acetone, and fruit and vegetable acids. It does not darken with age as linseed oil does.

Sutherland Welles uses polymerization from a cooking process to give its Tung Oil a faster drying time and a harder, higher gloss surface. Increasing the percentage of polymerized oil in the formulation of the finish restricts penetration but increases luster, durability and hardness."
 
The highest polymerized product - 50% -  is suggested for table surfaces -  The cost is significantly greater than pure Tung oil so reading between the lines -  it would not be sold unless its characteristics were not needed.

Did you use a 50% solution as a first coat?  The most common method that I am familiar with is the seal the wood with 1:1 Tung oil: Mineral Spirit and when this is dry, wipe on light layers of straight Tung oil and let them dry between coats.  Ambient temp would affect the time interval.
The primer coat can also be 50% shellac -  the actual concentration would depend on your shellac source.  Orange shellac is (I think) 20 lb cut, but comes already in solution  - that means 20 lb to a gallon of alcohol - my rough  round up conversion is 20% solution.
I use Super Blonde flakes.  The refining removes impurities which affects the solubility - the max concentration I can get of this is 10% and therefore the primer coat is a 5% solution.  There are very low cost electronic balances now - so it is easy to weigh 5 g and add this to 100 ml 2-propanol (100%) - too much water in the rubbing alcohol concentrations (50/70/91 %) .  
 
You could start try removing some of the Tung oil with straight Mineral Spirits or turpentine and start over, but waiting a few weeks for the O2 to penetrate your too thick layer  and work its polymerizing magic is easier.  
 
I am thinking that pure Tung oil is not an ideal finish for a working surface.  A carving, a ship model, a wall surface - are great, but a surface subject to wear is likely not going to react like you would like. 
 
Here is a quote from Garrett Wade about Sutherland Welles pre-polymerized Tung oil products -  unfortunately this source is US only
 
"Tung oil is recognized as the finest oil finish available. However, most so-called Tung oil finishes on the market have been adulterated with varnishes, lower cost soy oils, and/or urethane additives. This makes the finish somewhat cheaper and easier to use, but sacrifices the special qualities of Tung oil. Pure Tung oil provides a tough, hard surface that is absolutely waterproof, and impervious to dust, alcohol, acetone, and fruit and vegetable acids. It does not darken with age as linseed oil does.

Sutherland Welles uses polymerization from a cooking process to give its Tung Oil a faster drying time and a harder, higher gloss surface. Increasing the percentage of polymerized oil in the formulation of the finish restricts penetration but increases luster, durability and hardness."
 
The highest polymerized product - 50% -  is suggested for table surfaces -  The cost is significantly greater than pure Tung oil so reading between the lines -  it would not be sold unless its characteristics were not needed.

Realizing that it reflects North American practice rather than English, but in the Appendix of HASN, Chapelle includes a contract for two 600 ton Sloops of War for 1828.  The interesting factor for the deck is that for both the decking and the waterways it calls for planks averaging 40 feet in length.  It means that if you wish, your deck need not be so "busy" as far as the number of butt joints.
 
.I will repeat what I posted in Jan.  from the rules of the organization that was essentially the American version of Lloyds and probably used the rules from London as a basis for their own:
 
Record of American and Foreign Shipping
                         of
American Shipmasters' Association
                   1870  &  1885
 
Deck Plank
section 25.
 
The upper or main deck planking should be of the greatest obtainable length,
and free from defects, close-jointed and fastened with two spikes in each beam,
and one in each carling.  No butts of adjoining plank should be nearer each other
than the space of two beams ( when a strake intervenes the distance of one beam
will be allowed).  No butts should meet on the same beam, unless there be three
strakes between them.
 
Although this is from 1870, the properties of wood did not change, so these rules probably fit from 1650 on.

Realizing that it reflects North American practice rather than English, but in the Appendix of HASN, Chapelle includes a contract for two 600 ton Sloops of War for 1828.  The interesting factor for the deck is that for both the decking and the waterways it calls for planks averaging 40 feet in length.  It means that if you wish, your deck need not be so "busy" as far as the number of butt joints.
 
.I will repeat what I posted in Jan.  from the rules of the organization that was essentially the American version of Lloyds and probably used the rules from London as a basis for their own:
 
Record of American and Foreign Shipping
                         of
American Shipmasters' Association
                   1870  &  1885
 
Deck Plank
section 25.
 
The upper or main deck planking should be of the greatest obtainable length,
and free from defects, close-jointed and fastened with two spikes in each beam,
and one in each carling.  No butts of adjoining plank should be nearer each other
than the space of two beams ( when a strake intervenes the distance of one beam
will be allowed).  No butts should meet on the same beam, unless there be three
strakes between them.
 
Although this is from 1870, the properties of wood did not change, so these rules probably fit from 1650 on.

Did you use a 50% solution as a first coat?  The most common method that I am familiar with is the seal the wood with 1:1 Tung oil: Mineral Spirit and when this is dry, wipe on light layers of straight Tung oil and let them dry between coats.  Ambient temp would affect the time interval.
The primer coat can also be 50% shellac -  the actual concentration would depend on your shellac source.  Orange shellac is (I think) 20 lb cut, but comes already in solution  - that means 20 lb to a gallon of alcohol - my rough  round up conversion is 20% solution.
I use Super Blonde flakes.  The refining removes impurities which affects the solubility - the max concentration I can get of this is 10% and therefore the primer coat is a 5% solution.  There are very low cost electronic balances now - so it is easy to weigh 5 g and add this to 100 ml 2-propanol (100%) - too much water in the rubbing alcohol concentrations (50/70/91 %) .  
 
You could start try removing some of the Tung oil with straight Mineral Spirits or turpentine and start over, but waiting a few weeks for the O2 to penetrate your too thick layer  and work its polymerizing magic is easier.  
 
I am thinking that pure Tung oil is not an ideal finish for a working surface.  A carving, a ship model, a wall surface - are great, but a surface subject to wear is likely not going to react like you would like. 
 
Here is a quote from Garrett Wade about Sutherland Welles pre-polymerized Tung oil products -  unfortunately this source is US only
 
"Tung oil is recognized as the finest oil finish available. However, most so-called Tung oil finishes on the market have been adulterated with varnishes, lower cost soy oils, and/or urethane additives. This makes the finish somewhat cheaper and easier to use, but sacrifices the special qualities of Tung oil. Pure Tung oil provides a tough, hard surface that is absolutely waterproof, and impervious to dust, alcohol, acetone, and fruit and vegetable acids. It does not darken with age as linseed oil does.

Sutherland Welles uses polymerization from a cooking process to give its Tung Oil a faster drying time and a harder, higher gloss surface. Increasing the percentage of polymerized oil in the formulation of the finish restricts penetration but increases luster, durability and hardness."
 
The highest polymerized product - 50% -  is suggested for table surfaces -  The cost is significantly greater than pure Tung oil so reading between the lines -  it would not be sold unless its characteristics were not needed.