Stockholm tar

Nils,

Another great log to match that of your Pamir. Lovely work and attention to detail.

I've seen Gorch Fock a few times during the Tall Ships Races. Being run by the German Navy she is always of course very smart, with the yards squared to the inch when in port.

I thought you could only buy magnolia in 50 gallon drums        

Well, I think we know that Eamonn always buys in bulk! He hasn't told us yet, but I think he's planning to paint the house while he's at it (and he did mention magnolia).

 

Your Sherbourne has the White Stuff too so I'll take it the joins will show through the paint!

 

Eamonn,

Yes, I believe they will, although I actually used ivory below the waterline. That, or off-white, tend not to be so stark – and the ivory I used gives the hull that old look (goes with me). I'm with Keith Julier on this one, although his models were rather larger, which would make plain white stronger. I forget for the moment which colour he went with, but I think it was a Dulux tester pot he used.

The joints between the planks will show through, not markedly but enough. My planking of course is clinker, but I would think it would show up on carvel planking to some extent too – provided your paint layers aren't too thick!

Btw, if you go the scale plank route, it's probably a good idea to cut a number of planks at the same time. I have an Amati plank cutter for this job, which has proved useful. Be careful too when you get to the walnut, it tends to be a brittle, and bits flake off. 

Nigel, I shall opt for the Add On Wale

Eamonn,

As long as you don't opt for an add on 'whale' instead. Seriously, she's beginning to look very nice indeed – and that planking looks top rate.

I would, personally, continue with the scale length planks. I don't think it would take that much longer, and I think you will get faster as you progress – although that's not the name of the game, of course! The planks will probably show up when she's done, and you'll catch yourself looking at the hull occasionally and see the joints (I sometimes do this with my Sherbourne). You might even find it easier to work with shorter plank lengths, especially around the bow.

It's entirely up to you of course but, whatever you decide, I'm sure you'll do a great job.

 I would advise waiting until Kester is safely tucked up in bed

 

Nigel,

Thank you for your consideration. I actually slept quite well, and dreamed of...

Eamonn,

A picture? I'm not sure I can stand the excitement.

Gregor,

Those are some seriously good-looking guns – especially after the 'treatment'. I hope you find some decent carriages for them.

Jan,

Ouch – you must be a braver man than me! Good job though.

Eamonn,

I'm not sure the way this log is going! However, any chance of a free 'Clamps, Pegs and Pins', issue No 1,  by way of a trial offer? You mentioned a fetish ...

Good call on your bulwark planking. I think it looks better to fit the planking around the gunports, rather than planking across and cutting them out afterwards. Btw, it looks as though you might shortened the legs of your stand, the forward one more than the after, am I right? Hmm, I've seen that before somewhere...

Good tips, Nigel.

Be careful Kester  Are you in receipt of said blocks?or are they in what we now know to be the black hole,the mail order ether           

Nigel,

You have me worried now – they're still out there I'm afraid.

Actually I'm not that worried. I get them from here, and had a reply email confirming my order soon after:

http://clasicmodel.com/shop/index.php?route=common/home

I've dealt with him before, and he has been reliable. They're very nice blocks btw, ready to use and already stained and polished. Sorry, but I think most kit-bought blocks are c---p, even though Caldercraft blocks are probably the better ones. 

However, I will need a suitable triple block soon (fitted at the end of the bowsprit – for the topgallant stay and the topsail braces) but they only sell them in packs of ten. I only want one, and I'm not sure I'll be using many elsewhere. So, if anyone knows where I can buy a suitable block, perhaps in smaller numbers...? I'm not really into making my own, but if I can't find any, I suppose I'll have to resort to modifying one of the Caldercraft ones.

Eamonn,

Good to hear that, and the fact you're back in the shipyard. Look forward to the photos.

Btw you guys, I've just purchased some blocks... so there!

For now I wihs you all the best in coping with the Swedish winter (heard from my son, he lives in Stockholm, that is is very dark and grey).

 

Thanks Jan, but it's actually been pretty mild this year - with the temperature hovering around 0°, and rain rather than snow! We've had some of the latter, but not that much and it's now all gone, at least here in Stockholm. I actually prefer it when it's colder, as it's usually not so damp. It is dark and grey, although in the last couple of days we've had some sunshine, and it looks like more of the same later on.

Jan,

Looking very good. I would suggest, though, you trim the bottom of the rudder to match the keel line.

Eamonn,

Your ship made port then – pity it was only half loaded!

Seriously though, I imagine you'll at least be able to get started. As you say, perhaps the rest will come tomorrow.

Gregor,

Looking very good, and a nice extension to the pinrail. The swivel guns too are a great improvement.

Jan,

Like what he said, Tony that is. As for us all ***** ing – we'd rather not mention it!

Your rudder planking looks great and, I think you'll agree, it's much better than leaving it one big slab of wood. Yes, there are still a few problems with the iron work, but nothing that can't be overcome, I'm sure. What to do though?

First I think I'd lower the top pintle fitting, so that the actual pintle fits inside the gudgeon on the stern post. The middle one looks as though it needs to come out from the rudder a little, so that there is more of a gap for it to fit its gudgeon. The bottom one looks fine.

Hope this helps.

Something to do with prohibition, perhaps?

Eamonn,

BBA? I know it well, although I haven't bought anything for a while. I must rectify that! Sorry for the mention of Amazon, by the way. I do buy things from them, but usually through their marketplace. I would never pay those ridiculous prices – and am surprised they don't have a second mortgage scheme!

I like your serving machine, it looks just the job. I know what you mean about fixing the line with a spot of glue. I didn't do that for the first trial, and wondered why it was just going round and round – and no neat serving was appearing. Alexey actually suggests threading the end of the serving/seizing line through the shroud or whatever with a needle. This does the trick, but it's quite difficult to do with the smaller dimension line, and I still also put on a dab of glue to be sure. 

I'm doing running backstays now, but they're proving to be a bit tricky, causing me a few headaches – and the emission of not a few bad words!    I'll write more about that in my log (not the latter obviously).

Sorry to hear you haven't received your wood yet, but you are probably right that it's due to the weather. However, going by the amount of filler you ordered, I expect the captain of your timber ship has had instructions to remain in port.

 Eamonn,

We aim to please. The things you talk about when waiting for wood – is there any sign of it yet?

I'd be interesting in seeing your machine. I trust it works well?

Jan,

Worming, parceling and serving, were all part of protecting the rigging (more particularly the shrouds and stays) from the weather, and general wear and tear. The first two practices were applied with the lay of the rope, whilst the serving was done in the opposite direction, hence the old saying, 'worm and parcel with the lay, turn and serve the other way'. 

For model purposes, only the serving part is normally done – the shroud, etc, would be far to thick if the first two were done as well, and they are not necessary. The serving process is rather difficult to do properly by hand, so machines have been devised to do it more efficiently:

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5366-serving-machine-25-serving-machine-20-power-option/

Alexey's machine, as I mentioned, is very good, and I have used it on my running backstays. I didn't have it before that point, so the shrouds are done in the old way – you can spot the difference! You can also use it for seizing blocks to rigging.

BTW would love to see a post from your 'Sherry' build.. especially the seizing!

Eamonn,

There will be explicit pictures in my next post!  It shouldn't be too long now. Btw, was it you that wanted pics of the mast head, where all the shrouds, etc, are fastened? If so, I've taken a couple of pics of that too.

See, I don't stint on the details here!

Eamonn,

I think you answered your own question. Yes, anywhere a seizing was thought necessary, be the craft large or small, there was one. I'm actually doing some seizing at the moment on my Sherbourne's backstays (using Alexey's serving machine). It works very well, once you get the hang of it, and looks much better than my efforts by hand. Mind you, when I said to my wife the other day that I was going to do some seizing, she gave me an odd look!

Regarding Keith Julier's books, I think I might very well collect the others I don't have, especially Part 3 which includes the Victory bow section, in which I have an interest!  'Masting and Rigging' is practically the bible on rigging from an expert, but bear in mind it's mostly 19th/20th century.

Regarding sending Nigel a branch from your tree, I wouldn't be at all surprised if he has it already – judging by the strong winds you've been having!

I get the impression that anything called 'fair' a something, 'loom' a something, or whatever else a something, is a complete waste of money and doesn't do the job. I don't think there are any real short cuts to rigging, or any other task in model making – there is only the correct way, very often how it was done on the actual ship. It might take longer, but it's worth getting it right.  

Eamonn,

Sorry for your timber hold up. However, looking on the bright side (I'm sure there is one) you do have all those books to read – so you should be an expert by the time it arrives.

Having a closer look at it again, I can see there is a discrepancy between the first drawing (where the side tackles are hooked over the breech rope) and the second (where they are hooked under), Surely the second is the right way? Probably a mental blip on the part of the artist, but probably not in reality!

Jan,

Yes, that looks a vast impovement. Have you thought of actually planking the rudder, before you go any further? You could use some of the thinner maple left over from the deck, if you have any. This is what I did, with three shaped planks each side up the length of the rudder, with thin paper strips for the strengthening bands across them. Just a thought, but I think it improves the look of the rudder and makes it more authentic.

Michael,

I agree with you in that rudders were often not level with the keel, and for the reasons you mention, but I think for cutters and other similar vessels of this period, they probably were.