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chris watton

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Status Replies posted by chris watton

  1. I intend to copper my model of Sphinx. I note that you will be supplying copper tape for the forthcoming Indy model. Are you able to give me details of the copper tape, make, size etc and how I can purchase it

    thank you

    Alan Davison

    1. chris watton

      chris watton

      Hello, I am yet to finalise this, but the width will be around 6mm

  2. Dear Mr. Chris Watton,

     

    Please excuse the sudden PM.

    My name is Kiyoo Iizawa and I am a member of MSW forum. I am also a member of the one of Japanese Sailing ship Modelers Club.

    In March of this year, I posted on the MSW forum a method I devised for scratch building of structural models, especially for beginner modelers, and received a lot of response from people around the world. I understand that post was referred to you as well. As you can see in my last post recently, my method has been confirmed as successful.

    Several people who have viewed my posts have requested the manual that I provided them for reference.

    The data in the manual I provided includes the design and laser-cut data for the prototype Granado, which can be used by anyone interested in building it.

    For the personal laser cutting of the parts, I ordered the cutting sheets from you through Micro Craft in Japan and was able to get them successfully. The contents are pear wood sheet 0.8 mm to 6.0 mm thick, with a size of 100 x 500 mm.

    The reason I am writing this email is to ask if it is okay to introduce your company in the MSW forum that people around the world can inquiring about the availability of materials from you to obtain the same board material as their design data.

    Even if you do grant me permission, the terms of sale, etc., are up to you, and all I will do is simply refer viewers to introduce about the availability of the materials for build. I don't want this to be a burden or interfere with your business, and this is just an inquiry of doing introductory offer, but I hope to hear good news from you.

    I will also provide you with the above stated manual and design data, if needed, for your verification.

    Best Regards,

     

    Kiyoo Iizawa

    A member of Yokohama Sailing ship Modelers Club (YSMC) in Yokohama, Japan

     

    1. chris watton

      chris watton

      Dear Mr Kiyoo Iizawa,

       

      Thank you for your message. I have seen your work and it is very wonderful!

       

      Of course you can mention where the materials come from, I do not mind at all. Microcraft, Mr, Konishi, is a very nice customer.

       

      I now use 0.6 and 0.8mm wood in my own kits. 

       

      because of how popular HMS Sphinx has been, I used a lot of my stock to make kits, so I am awaiting new stock, but I can sell to individual customers.

       

      Kindest regards,

       

      Chris Watton

    2. (See 1 other reply to this status update)

  3. Chris, 

    I just tried to PM you and got a site from the ModelShipWorld site that you cannot receive messages.?.  Am I doing something wrong?  I went to the message area, put your name in the "to" box, provided a subject line and then wrote my message.

    Jim Van Laningham

    1. chris watton

      chris watton

      Hi Jim, you can email me direct:

      chriswatton66@gmail.com

    2. (See 1 other reply to this status update)

  4.  Chris

    Good news indeed about Speedy. Will hopefully see it on sale in early November.

    Regarding Alert which I am building, can I say what an excellent kit this is. I am half way through first planking and have had no problems so far, country to some of the comments in the building logs posted elsewhere . But, and there is usually a but, I note you do not include any rigging for the guns, I assume this was to keep costs down. Secondly I note you have not shown any foot ropes to the sail yards or man access to the Topgallant sail yard which I believe might have been a rope ladder. Nevertheless less, despite my "buts" a truly cracking kit.

    1. chris watton

      chris watton

      Hi Alan,

      Thank you. I am sure cutters did not have footropes on yards, as the sails were set near the deck, the yards were brought down, much like the royal yards on larger ships. I know the Anatomy of the Ship book shows no footropes, too.

       

      Regarding rigging for guns, I personally hate it because they never look right, especially at such a scale, so I never add them on any of my models if I can help it - it had nothing to do with keeping costs down. Contemporary models never show the carriage tackle, and the models look all the cleaner for it. However, I think for the larger models, I will include it, as I know many do like to add this.

       

      Thank you,

       

      Chris

    2. (See 1 other reply to this status update)

  5. What would be the best way to unglue some wooden ship model parts ?  Have been working on the HMS Fly and have made some errors.  Used PVA glue.  Thanks for any help.

    1. chris watton

      chris watton

      You could try and dampen the parts to help release the wood glue, but it may be better contacting Amati for some replacement parts. I am sure they would be very helpful. But be aware, for most of July and August they are shut. I do not have any Amati kits here, so cannot help, I do not work for them.

       

      Thank you,

       

      Chris

    2. (See 1 other reply to this status update)

  6. Hello,

    I saw the Billy Ruffian was maybe next in queue. What about HMY Fubbs? The model in the NMM has a fully detailed cabin area and the yacht itself was in service for a long time.

    The tumblehome is eye-catching.  Not sure how the painted frieze can be supplied for the fat-fingered like me not to mess up.

    Thanks for listening.

    Restoration ship model fan

    1. chris watton

      chris watton

      Hello,

       

      I will not be doing Bellerophon, but I do plan to do a 64th scale Bellona. Next kit will be the brig sloop Speedy, followed by the 50 gun 2-decker 4th Rate Bristol.

       

      For the painted friezes, I usually design them in very this photo etched brass, as the background can be painted first, and the frieze patterns painted and then applied to the background.

       

      Thank you,

       

      Chris

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