chris watton
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Everything posted by chris watton
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Well, the file's been done now for that figure, so can no longer change it. I will ask for a seated officer next. What a morning, from 9am until just now I have been cleaning the laser machine after re stocking Indy and other laser cut parts. Not an enviable job..- 417 replies
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It's more dependant on the hull lines, but there are a couple of things I can do to mitigate it further.
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I am trying out a new digital carver, and thought it best to start with a figure. I did want another Nelson figure anyway, one that would stand up to closer scrutiny at larger scales.
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I have commisioned a second figure of Nelson using a new carver with more accurate facial features: These are a work in progress with a little more tweaking required. The render showing Nelson on the plinth was the first. I asked, based on previous feedback, to have dowels on the bottom of the feet and holes to take the dowels in the plinth, if people want to display the figure either on the plinth, or on the deck directly.
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Here is an unboxing review of Sherbourne, bt the Midwest Model Shops in the US: (Not much else to report on, just been producing/re stocking Indy laser cut sheets, which has taken an absolute age to do...)
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No filler blocks required. There are 17 bulkheads with a space of around 13mm between each one. Skeletal assembly is rock solid and virtually impossible to have the banana keels of old.
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- vanguard models
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You can give the wheel a few coats of spray primer, white or red oxide. This does help round off the edges. Wooden wheels are always way too thick and out of scale for 64th, metal ones almost as bad, and 3-d printed versions too fragile. (in my experience, at least - same applies to belaying pins)
- 83 replies
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- Sphinx
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Masts and Bowsprit - Glue or Not?
chris watton replied to Coyote_6's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I always add just a drop of PVA to the bottom of each mast, as they will twist otherwise, and you'll be forever trying to twist them back into position - unless of course the mast is keyed into place. -
Very well done, BE, they both look stunning!
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- Indefatigable
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Very well done, David, I think this is the first one I have seen fully complete, she looks very nice indeed!
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- Vanguard Models
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That looks really good! Those 3d printed wheels on the carronade carriages look a lot better than the old PE versions.
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I should mention the sails, or lack of them in my kits. I was given the details of the same sail maker that the Spanish companies use, and I had samples arrive which were passable - not a patch on the high-quality Russian sets, but much cheaper. I then forked out a large amount of money for 100 sets each for my existing smaller kits. The quality was too much of a contrast with the overall kit contents, so I then decided to give them away, and once they're gone, I am more than happy to not supply sail sets that are of such low quality that they could compromise the integrity of the overall kit. They may be fine for others to use, but I have decided to pass.
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For snipping the rigging, especially ratlines, I have always use these Tamiya side cutters: Tamiya 74035 Model Accessories - Cutting Pliers : Amazon.co.uk: Toys & Games
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Here you can see the ply pattern clamped and glued in place. No pins were used at all in fixing these. They were first clamped in place and then brush glued. Note there are no kinks in the lower edges at all, all fits nicely. The second pic shows were I am up to, checking the very first iteration of the outer bulwark skin and main wale, just clamped loosly in place to check general fit. The final ones will have engraved detail. Next job is to first plank the hull, which I shall start next week.
- 417 replies
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Yes, most will not be seen, as I have to take into account the depth of the carronade carriages and the various openings down the centre of the deck. When I started this, my main thought was that I want to include a ships stove, and it kind of progressed from there. However, as some build logs of Sphinx and Indy has shown, the modeller can choose how much of the upper deck is planked, and this one will be easier due to the sub deck being much less prominent, and the beams being flush with the upper surface of the ply deck. I always think back to the excellent Tamiya kits I have, where they have details that are almost, sometimes completely covered up once fully built. Harpy also has 17 bulkheads with lots of bracing, so very structurally sound.. Yesterday I clamped and then glued the final iteration of the gun port patterns - as usual for this sort of kit, no gunports or oar ports need to be marked and cut out, these will be already done.
- 417 replies
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The windlass and stern davit was used for various tasks, one of thich was to help work the anchors with their parent ship, helping lifting the crown so that the anchor could free itself, and the the ships capstan did the work of raising it. The windlass was used to coil the buoy rope.
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I have the second in my new line up of alternative printed resin boats almost ready. This is a 24 and 26 foot launch, complete with windlass and davit.
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That is truly stunning!
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Many innocent sheets of material died to bring you these pictures... This is the fifth hull I have made up, with incremental changes with each new version. I usually just remove and replace the parts I change, but there are many interlocking parts with this one, that I felt more comfortable restarting the whole hull assembly with all updated designs, so that I know all fits as they should. This will not be the final form, however, but am comfortable continuing using the hull form (which is final) to get more information for parts that fit onto it. Hull has been sanded, ready to take gunport bulwark template (which are next to design) (This will be thrown away once all info has been garnered from it...)
- 417 replies
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At some point I shall
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