oakheart
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Everything posted by oakheart
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Talking of timber for making ships about 15 years ago I was talking to a park ranger at Croft Castle in the UK and he told me a story, about the trees on the Ancient Tree Walk. The trees themselves are thought to be over 400 years old. The story is that the chestnut trees were grown from sweet chestnuts that were taken from the captured Spanish ships at the time of the Spanish Amada. It is also said that a planting regime of Oak Trees (English) and the Sweet Chestnuts (Spanish) in the grounds at Croft represents a battle formation during the Spanish Armada. He gave me a twig from one of those trees, about 7 inches long it looks the part for the stem, but there is no way I could use Spanish chestnut on the model of the Bounty Launch. I do that walk frequently, I need to look for an Oak twig …………. Tim
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Believe me I have looked round the garden for suitable twigs or branches......... Tim
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I don't know how I missed this new build log. But I am here now. Nice going Craig Tim
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Finally got some time to do a bit of boat building. Paper templates are glued in place, the wide smooth masking tape from 'Wilkos' is great for this, I also use it with CA to hold parts on the CNC machine. Frames / molds cut out and test fitted to the new base/jig These frames are to see if the sheet Obeche I have works for these frames. I am a bit worried it may not be robust enough. I can see why they used floors and futtocks on the real thing, that way you can have the grain running in the correct direction for strength That may have to be plan B. I can see that's what Glen is doing - but then he must be crazy....... The Tape / Pritt-stick worked well, no lifting or buckling, so I will be using it on the rest of this part of the build. Tim
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"fare winds and following seas" to you too Aiken, I am a new boy here and have found it a wonderful place to learn and make new 'shipmates'. Tim
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Thanks Allan, the clamps came from ebay, about £3 for a pack of 50. I added the coffee stirrer extensions instead of the metal loop in the hope that will it not bruise the wood. The test shown is on my Version 1, rejected frames and molds with a stray piece of plank sized wood. This is not the real thing.... thanks for the link to the article. Over the next few days I hope to get the latest version cut out, the printer is clunking away printing out the drawings ready to be pasted on the wood I am going to try masking tape and pritt-stick to hold the paper template in place. Masking tape on the wood, pritt-stick on the paper template, the masking tape comes off cleanly and I won't have to clean the pritt-stick off the wood. I will let you know how it works. Tim
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Just tried shortening them, it made a big difference to the hold down. This place is amazing, I could have spend days tinkering and trying different things, just ask and someone will help. Thanks again Tim
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Thanks, I will try and shorten them first, then try the sandpaper trick Tim
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A very Happy new year to one and all. First delivery of the new year, a new set of clips ( clamps ) to help with planking. After a quick test fitting of some small wooden extensions, they work well but have a tendency to slip on the frames, pushed up by the plank. would a patch of sandpaper glued into the rounded part of the jaws help? Has anyone tried this? Tim
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Having told Shipman on allanyed's bounty launch log that I was going to make this build a boat as it was on the journey ie. a very tatty looking boat at the end of the adventure. I am now tempted to do two versions 1: using all of my tests and other bits I produce while learning: build the tatty version. 2: then build an unpainted raw wood version using my Alaskan yellow pine. I do love the look of wood in it's natural state with just a lick of matte wax. We will see how it pans out. Tim
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Today I am like a child in a sweet shop. My order for Alaskan yellow cedar arrived. I know I'm supposed to be saving it until I know what I am doing..... But I took some small pieces and cut a test rabbet, I can see now why people rave about this wood. It is really nice to work with and looks amazing. BUT I must go back to practicing with Basswood ( Lime ). The rabbet was cut using a 10a scalpel blade which is my favorite tool. Comments please. Tim
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Today, Frame H redesigned in Fusion as a sketch exported, printed and cut out of 2.5 mm obeche. I have now added guide lines for the fairing, so I filled/sanded done to the line, then cut to the inside line once I was happy with fairing, I fixed it back on the mold with tape and a dob of pva on the new extension, you can hardly see the join. Feels like this method will work. I also had a revelation this morning, why am I fixated with using Fusion for the 2D drawings, I am now going to cut this manually not cutting on the CNC. But because I comfortable with sketching in Fusion and have forgotten how to use Illustrator, I kept using Fusion. But now I have decided to move 2D development over to my ancient version of Illustrator ( the last pre cloud version, purchased outright ) I can always import the drawings into Fusion if and when I need to. Craig : your ZAZ7361 dxf loads perfectly and although I am not as proficient in Illustrator as Fusion, I can edit away to my hearts content. Once I have used illustrator for a while I'm sure it will all come back. Tim Tim
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It all becomes much clearer when you know what the lines are, thanks
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here is the image I meant to upload, I got interrupted by the local carol singers ringing on the door bell, it disrupted my train of thought. Its the line indicated by the red arrow. Craig : those new images you posted really show how the rabbet and keel works, invaluable information. Should all of this information also go on the other thread Bounty ships boat details as well ? it would keep all of the more technical stuff in one place so others can find it. Tim
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Craig those new drawings are really helpful, all of the frames except for G and H that I traced from the original NMM drawing match yours. I can now use yours to trace the keel and plan so it will all fit together. Tim
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Craid said : These may be of more use I will gives those new drawings a go, thanks again for taking the time and effort to help me on my project. It really helps helps having some support when trying to learn new things. Tim
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Still deciphering these drawings, what does the dashed line ( marked with red arrow ) outside the hull line on the plan represent? Tim
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Hi Craig, thanks it helps me to understand the drawing more clearly. I have all of the frames already traced in Fusion now just need to do the plan view. When I import your DXF to fusion, there are loads of control points, that really bogs down fusion so it not usable. Which program was it drawn in ? This is a real downside of Fusion, when you get complex sketches ( the 2D drawings ) it can't cope, sulks and slows down to a crawl. I have found that retracing manually using splines keeps things working smoothly. thanks for the file. Tim
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Thanks Craig - so it's full steam ahead for me then. Tim
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Thank Craig I will incorporate those ideas into my design I am now redrawing my cad model based on ZAZ7361, am I correct in thinking that you and Allen now think this is the best drawing to work from Tim
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Thanks Mark, I will stick to that size. Tim
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Thanks Keith : I just found out how to make them smaller, but they are not clickable thumbnails. The next images I upload I will leave BIG.
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Anyone : The images I have posted are really big on the page, how do I show a smaller thumbnail that when clicked show the bigger image? Tim
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Okay here is the idea for the frames and its supporting mold. a blank is cut round the outer edge then the frame is cut, leaving me with a frame and a support mold I can then carefully rub down and finish the frame then fit it back on the the mold and place it on the base ready for fairing here is my first test base for the frames if I extend the legs ( futtocks ) of the frame on both sides I could even glue it in place and cut off later. Craig - your diagram above shows dimensions to make the frame thicker for fairing, how did you work out how much bigger to make the frame size? Is it just taken from the plan view ? Tim
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Hey thanks Craig This is really helpful, I was planning on having some kind of 'mold' like they do with the kit models, in fact like you did with your 16 footer. Making the frame thicker to allow for fairing make total sense, I wa just in the workshop and cut a new futtock along the grain and was wondering how to overcome the thinning that would happen when I faired it, now to work out how much. You also answered the other question that was floating around in my head, how deep should the slots in the keel be, your diagrams explain it perfectly Tim
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