oakheart

Today, Frame H redesigned in Fusion as a sketch exported, printed and cut out of 2.5 mm obeche. I have now added guide lines for the fairing, so I filled/sanded done to the line, then cut to the inside line once I was happy with fairing, I fixed it back on the mold with tape and a dob of pva on the new extension, you can hardly see the join. Feels like this method will work. I also had a revelation this morning, why am I fixated with using Fusion for the 2D drawings, I am now going to cut this manually not cutting on the CNC. But because I comfortable with sketching in Fusion and have forgotten how to use Illustrator, I kept using Fusion. But now I have decided to move 2D development over to my ancient version of Illustrator ( the last pre cloud version, purchased outright ) I can always import the drawings into Fusion if and when I need to. Craig : your ZAZ7361 dxf loads perfectly and although I am not as proficient in Illustrator as Fusion, I can edit away to my hearts content. Once I have used illustrator for a while I'm sure it will all come back. Tim Tim

It all becomes much clearer when you know what the lines are, thanks

here is the image I meant to upload, I got interrupted by the local carol singers ringing on the door bell, it disrupted my train of thought. Its the line indicated by the red arrow. Craig : those new images you posted really show how the rabbet and keel works, invaluable information. Should all of this information also go on the other thread Bounty ships boat details as well ? it would keep all of the more technical stuff in one place so others can find it. Tim

Craig those new drawings are really helpful, all of the frames except for G and H that I traced from the original NMM drawing match yours. I can now use yours to trace the keel and plan so it will all fit together. Tim

Craid said : These may be of more use I will gives those new drawings a go, thanks again for taking the time and effort to help me on my project. It really helps helps having some support when trying to learn new things. Tim

Still deciphering these drawings, what does the dashed line ( marked with red arrow ) outside the hull line on the plan represent? Tim

Hi Craig, thanks it helps me to understand the drawing more clearly. I have all of the frames already traced in Fusion now just need to do the plan view. When I import your DXF to fusion, there are loads of control points, that really bogs down fusion so it not usable. Which program was it drawn in ? This is a real downside of Fusion, when you get complex sketches ( the 2D drawings ) it can't cope, sulks and slows down to a crawl. I have found that retracing manually using splines keeps things working smoothly. thanks for the file. Tim

Thanks Craig - so it's full steam ahead for me then. Tim

Thank Craig I will incorporate those ideas into my design I am now redrawing my cad model based on ZAZ7361, am I correct in thinking that you and Allen now think this is the best drawing to work from Tim

Thanks Mark, I will stick to that size. Tim

Thanks Keith : I just found out how to make them smaller, but they are not clickable thumbnails. The next images I upload I will leave BIG.

Anyone : The images I have posted are really big on the page, how do I show a smaller thumbnail that when clicked show the bigger image? Tim

Okay here is the idea for the frames and its supporting mold. a blank is cut round the outer edge then the frame is cut, leaving me with a frame and a support mold I can then carefully rub down and finish the frame then fit it back on the the mold and place it on the base ready for fairing here is my first test base for the frames if I extend the legs ( futtocks ) of the frame on both sides I could even glue it in place and cut off later. Craig - your diagram above shows dimensions to make the frame thicker for fairing, how did you work out how much bigger to make the frame size? Is it just taken from the plan view ? Tim

Hey thanks Craig This is really helpful, I was planning on having some kind of 'mold' like they do with the kit models, in fact like you did with your 16 footer. Making the frame thicker to allow for fairing make total sense, I wa just in the workshop and cut a new futtock along the grain and was wondering how to overcome the thinning that would happen when I faired it, now to work out how much. You also answered the other question that was floating around in my head, how deep should the slots in the keel be, your diagrams explain it perfectly Tim

Hope this style of log is okay? I am really just making it up as I go along, try something if it works keep going. Let me know what you think Tim

Hi Glen Thanks for the welcome. I have just started my build log, in scratch builds 17 to 1800 I know there is not much there yet but let me know what you think so far. Really I am making it up as I go along. Tim

So I found small piece of 2.4 mm thick plywood in the workshop, no idea where or when I got it. Printed out the keel and frame, glued it to the plywood with a no-name brand spraymount glue and attacked it with the scroll saw. I was please with how it came out, not bad even if I do say so myself. The frame seems pretty strong, even though its only 2x2 mm square at the top at 1:24 that 2x2 inches which is to scale The problem is I have no more of the 2.4 mm ply and no where local seems to sell it. The 2 mm stuff is way to floppy and 3 mm looks out of scale I did try some 2.4 mm Obeche I had, but at this size it just snapped like a twig I glued it back together, you can just see the glue line on the left. But I think it may be too delicate to use. The frame at the back is the first plywood test stained down. Tim

Hi Dunnock ( David ) Thanks for the best wishes, I will need all the luck I can find along the way. I always was the foolhardy type, straight in with both feet. I used to to run a model making company called 'Risky Ventures' we would take on projects nobody else would touch. I can remember going to meetings and saying 'of course we can do that' then getting back and thinking how the xxx are we going to get that made............ Thanks for the links to the wood suppliers, when I stop hacking all the Basswood, maybe I will order some.

Having nearly completed bashing a Deans Marine kit of an RC Destroyer, HMS Lightning, I started looking for a new project. I always loved the look of the wonderful wooden Men of War that I had seen at the National Maritime Museum at Greenwich in my youth. Sadly I do not think I’m ready to build one of those yet, so looking around the MSW website and reading loads of build logs in decided I would build a ships boat to help build up my skills. Both Allanyed and imustbecrazy inspired me to start this log, I have been hanging around on their logs over the last few days. The build logs of the Shipways 1:16 launch by Cap'nRatFink and keithW have also been invaluable in helping to decide what to build. Then there is of course Chuck Passaro's and his wonderful Medway Longboat kit, I wish I could afford that one. For better or worse I decided to go down the scratch build slipway. So I downloaded a lines drawing from NMM numbered ZAZ7848, this is alleged to be a copy of the drawing used to build the actual launch for HMS Bounty. Having used Fusion 360 for several years now I was comfortable in being able to import the drawing and produce a design that would enable me to make a scale model in wood. At first my idea was to output some g-code from the CAM section in Fusion and produce the keel and frames using my small CNC router. After a bit of test cutting on my scroll saw, I realized with something this simple I could do it as easily by hand. Also by doing it manually I would learn a lot more about working with wood which is sadly lacking in my skill set. So here we are with the drawing nicely hand traced in Fusion with the frames ready to export as DXF files to print out and scroll cut by hand.

Thanks Mark, When you say large, Is there a size restriction? Tim

Thanks for the welcome Andrew Tim

Thanks Allan See you over in your Bounty Launch topic.

Thanks to Ken, Dave and both Marks for the welcomes. Looks like I need to start a build log and pretty soon. Are phone photos good for logs? Tim

I have found you can also calibrate the canvas to a scale ( say 1:24 ) and work directly at that scale in the sketch. You only really need a single measurement on the drawing, you then calculate the scale size and enter that number in the box, presto you have a scale drawing. hope that made sense... Tim

Hi John thanks for the warm welcome. I was just down under in October, visiting "Rellies" in Sydney and Melbourne. It's a shame we missed each other. Tim