oakheart
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Everything posted by oakheart
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Now it begins to make some sense, thanks again Craig. I will spend this morning practicing my marking out based on your explanations. First to print out a planking fan and cut some extra tick strips. Tim -
Having researched the subject, I am still having problems working out the planking on this boat. Am I conflating two or more different ways of approaching the problem. Chucks Passaro, David Antscherl and others. Here is what I understand so far : The planks are widest at station 0 and taper forward toward the stem and back to the stern ( transom ) So for each station I take a measurement of the frame from keel to gunwale in mm, divided by number of planks = plank width in mm at a scale of 1:24, I have the following dimensions on my tick strips in mm as a start stem : ?? station H : 40 / 8 = 5mm station 0 : 60 / 8 = 7.5mm station 8 : 44 / 8 = 5.5mm transom : ?? The widths at stations in between are then marked on tick strips by transferring dimensions from a planking fan. I still have not fully understood the use of the fan yet, more reading required here. When joining those dots what determines the amount of curve between stations? as a side note: I have a wonderful set of french curves that I got from the widow of a boat designer some 45 years ago. At last I can put them to their proper use. Tim
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That makes sense, if it was a 'rubbed' joint it would be difficult to see the join. Tim
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Don't know, I will do a test on my Version 1 frames and let you know. Most of the inside of the keel / strakes junction should be covered by the flooring planks ( forget the real name ). Tim
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Hi Hakan Thank you, I will try to do a bit more fairing before I proceed. I will use a piece of wood and not card to give me a better idea Tim
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Thanks for your input, but this is a different model, the planking does not go over the deadwood, this was discussed previously on ? Allans build ? Tim
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Hmm, all I want is a good looking model, will it make a difference which way I go? I am tempted by the no rabbet idea. Most of the time the model will be viewed from above and the join between the keel and the plank will not show as a dark shadow. If I cut a rabbet the join will show as a shadow line. As long as I can get a good bevel on the planks, I think the no rabbet would look better When I made models to be photographed all I wanted to achieve was something that looked good to the camera lens, what the eye did not see was not important. Tim
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Here is a couple of photos of the planking templates I've been working on. They are not glued in place, just held by the clamps, lots of adjustments to make before I commit to the good wood. Also I have not cut the rabbet yet. I have read on this site about not needing to do that? Comments please................. This is fiddly, I don't think I could do this at 1:48 like Allan is building I would become a nervous wreck.
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I love all of those ideas, just need to get the hull complete, then try some of them out Tim
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looking at all of the variations in post 21, on my build I think I will opt for, counting left to right No. 7, it's simplest to make ( typical of me ) also on all of the contemporary artist drawings / paintings I don't remember any showing a rubbing strip? anyone else see anything? Tim
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The frames are now pretty fair. So working on my planking,. I have made some progress using cardboard templates then transferring the shape to basswood sheet. I am finding it easier to cut and sand the basswood to fit than cut / trim the card. So I may just waste some of my basswood sheet to make set of masters. Then cut the hero parts from those. I am now even more in awe of how the kit makers like Chuck Passaro and Chris Watton manage to design and produce their kits. Hats off to you guys. Tim
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Thanks for the links, I have read the articles on this site along with others, the book seems to cover a clinker built hull, which although of interest may not help with this launch which is carvel planked. There are some amazing videos of full size planking builds on YouTube. Again interesting but difficult to translate to model making. Tim
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While fairing the frames today I was thinking about what Bligh and the crew may have done to make the canvas screen round the edge of the boat... As Purcell the ship's carpenter had his saws he could have sawn up bits of the boat to make parts for the screen. Did the just use a low strip all the way around, sort of like a canvas washboard or did they use big sheets of canvas fixed at the gunwale then up to the rigging to keep the worst of the constant splash from the big waves. Did they catch rainwater in canvas sheets . Use four oars fixed upright in a square with canvas across the top, hole in the middle with a bucket in under the hole. now the mind races away, how will I model this ? nobody knows what they did so I can make up anything that I think might have worked, could be fun. Does anyone have any other ideas? Okay back to the sandpapering now. Tim
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That's some really good interpretation work there. I can hardly understand the language from the book. Your drawings, brilliant as usual, are really useful to those of us at the planking stage like you. Thank you for sharing them. Ti m
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You can probably tell, for this scratch build I have been heavily influenced by Chucks longboat kit design ( Thanks Chuck ), the jig base and other elements are a direct copy. This is not a pirate copy honest! Tim
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Hi Gregory, thanks for dropping in, I was just going through your build this morning, very nice. I have picked a load of good details already, thank you for sharing your build with us newbies. I will down load those docs and read through them. I am really having fun working out how to progress with this build. With all the help I am getting it may even get finished. Tim
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After reading loads of the planking tutorials on here and watching chucks videos etc. etc.. I still have questions. For the Garboard Strake ( the plank next to the keel ), 1: How do I work out the curve for the stem end? 2: How do I work out how far forward should it be? Here is the one that Craig did for his 16ft cutter, even scaled the curve in not right for my 1:24 23ft launch I could just use the cardboard template I have made and keep hacking at it until I get something that fits, but is there a better way? Tim
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I also do a lot of work on brass using a jewelers piercing saw and the rules are similar with regards to teeth number and stock thickness, every blade manufacturer has a chart. When cutting wood for model boat making on my old Delta scroll saw I use a medium tooth count piercing saw blade ( will have to check count ) it's very fine compared to the chunky blades normally supplied for scroll saw use. I tend to use the No. 4 size with 15 tooth count I have gone finer but for wood these are good. If I can keep it straight, It will cut down the centre of a 0.3 mm line. The blades are good for hardwood, plywood upto about 12mm thick. Not so good for ripping along the grain. see https://www.cooksongold.com/blog/buying-guide/a-jewellers-guide-to-saw-blades/ for chart of sizes Tim
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Thanks for the compliment. I have used measurements directly off the ZAZ7361 drawings ( ha ha against ingrained brainwashing ), would they be different from those on your scantlings list. The futtocks are 2.4mm square to be correct they should be 2.1and tapered, but they became too flimsy so I beefed them up. If I used 2mm plywood it might work, or I could try the bent square section like you did. I will stick with this as my first build and see how it works out. Your description of the gunwale on your build log really help me to understand how the top of the planks should go together. Tomorrow I will make some tick strips and cut some 1 mm cardboard planks to start setting out my planking Tim
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Thanks for the encouragement. I like the chalk idea, it's a shame I don't have any laser char to guide me 🤐 Tim
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Yes there is a foot with it, have a look at photos of the Delta scroll saw, it just has a rod/bar that is attached to the rear frame, with another rod that holds the foot. I personally never use it, I find it gets in the way, as long as you use your fingers to hold the work down there should not be a problem. It's just a matter of practice. also fine blades are better than coarse in keeping the problem at bay. Tim
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So after my tea break here they are, a landmark for me. This is with the plywood keel that I will use while fairing the frames. It's difficult getting all of the frames fitted into the keel, a bit like having taken a clock to bits and trying to get it back together I think that will do for today. Tim
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That looks like the one Tim
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This morning I realized I was getting ahead of myself, I need to cut the frames and base first, then do the planks. It's easy to get over excited and get carried away. Well I find that I do. 🤪 So the rest of the frames are cut out, having a cup of tea then I will sand them to size. Tim
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Hi Riotvan, It does tilt. Just checked again - there are no markings at all not even on the motor! Runs and cuts okay, picking up on Jaagers comment about the up/down problem, there is a sort of hold down fork but no brackets but you could easily cobble something together. For PnP the size is 55 x 30 x 22 cm and weight is probably closer to 30 kilos, ( my Delta is quoted as 30 k ) I could wrap it in corrugated cardboard and bubble wrap. Parcelforce are quoting £15 for 2 day delivery Should we take this offline, not sure what the rules are on here as I am still a new boy. Tim
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