reilly

The ruder fittings, eye and ring bolts.
 
The ruder hinges are cut out from solid brass 2mm x 10mm, then filed by hand with a file.
 







 
The little tool for eyebolts and the process of making (the wire is 0;4mm):
 









 
The shot lookers:
 



 
To be continued.

Alexander

Hi all and many thanks for your comments!
 
some photos of manufacturing of deck planks with caulking. The first photo shows the complete process. The paper was glued to one surface of the prepared piece of wood, then the piece are cut in to planks. I used the Proxxon steel saw blade 50 x 0,5mm (photo 2). It gives very clean cut and does not need for sanding before gluing.
 



(note an additional piece for fence is that the plank would not be clamped)

 
The planking of deck:
 







 
the work go on and the deck is nearly completted. The ridding bits and anchor bitts are only dry placed without a glue, and anchor cable is still for photo shooting.







 
The deck of Captain's cabin is done, the planking of after part of hull is completed and lower counter rail also on place.
 





 
Added some photos:
 



 
To be continued.
 
Alexander

Thank Daniel!
 
The hull was then oiled with linseed oil bellow the main wales:
 


 
Here some images of gratings, hatches, ladders and gun deck framing, is now completed and is ready for planking.
The lower deck is also completed and oiled, the after part is painted black.
These are also some close views of main ladder and other things.
 












 
To be continued...

Best regards

Alexander

There are some pictures illustrating the macking of rails (boxwood).
 






here is short description of scraping process:

The width (and as also as possible the depth) of the profile cut in the razor-blade must correspond exactly the width of the strip, otherwise the blade follows the wood grain and does not run straight. With the first 2 to 3 courses the pressure of razor blade against the strip should be low, afterwards step by step with higher pressure. For a profile shown I need 20 to 30 courses, depends which kind of wood. I tried different woods and mostly the results were good, the boxwood I choose because of the color, and due to the fact the timber is very hard, which is an advantage with fine small profiles.
 
The rails in place with gun port and part of main wale.
 

 
The plankin get close to end:

 
and finally done:
 


 
Best regards

Alexander

Hello all here!

I'm glad our World is back! So I start here my build log for HMS Sphynx. In the past life (I mean old MSW...) I have some images added to gallery, so I will post them all here in chronological order with some descriptions.

The Sphynx was 20 gun ship designed by J. Williams, and was smallest 6th rate frigate. She was built in 1775 at Portsmouth, Hampshire and broken ap in 1811. The Sphynx-class is also the last class of small frigates with 9 pdr. There are 10 further ships builded:

Camilia, Chathan Dyd, 20.4.1776-1809
Daphne, Woolwich Dyd., 21.3.1776-1802
Galatea, Deptford Dyd., 23.3.1776-1783
Ariadne, Chatham Dyd., 27.12.1776-1814
Vestal, Plymonth Dyd., 23.35.1777-1777
Perseus, Randall, Rothehille, 20.3.1776-1805, 1798 convertet to a bomb vessel
Unicorn, Randall, Rothehille, 23.3.1776-1787
Ariel, Perry & Co., Blackwall, 7.7.1777-1779
Narcissus Plymonth Dyd., 9.5.1781-1796

For this project I have ordered the original plans from NMM, and I have decided to redraw the plans for model building. For decorative work and also some other details I have ordered the pictures from "Science and Society Picture Library" http://www.scienceandsociety.co.uk/results.asp?image=10325356 . For dimensions of all hull details I have used the Establishment lists, and Steels "The Elements of masting and Rigging" for mast, yards and standing rigging. The running rigging and sailing plan also arrive later.
The result looks at time thus: http://zope.mein-media.de/meinmedia/plans/index.html

In February 2006 the plans were ready, at least so far that I have begun with the building of the model. Parallel and in addition I have done further research, and the plans are further worked out.
 
Now the images of beginning:




 
The main wales are cut according to plan, and glued on. Then waterway, spirketing and part of planking abowe main wales are added.




 
The model was then put keel over, and underwater planking begins.




 
Best regards

Alexander

Moving right along.  Some photos of where my Bounty stands after a year's work.  Some of the deck ornaments above and below are not yet glued in place.  I'll be completing all the deck stuff and adding a few more pieces down below before I start on building masts.  So enjoy and comment away.

News flash: Shenandoah is armed...with four popguns. I think they look a little silly. Maybe they used them for duck hunting.
 
Working with metal is much harder than working with wood, and I'm glad they're done. Thanks for reading!
 
Steve
 
 

The Board of Directors of the NRG has decided it would be a good idea to let our members know a little about ourselves.  As you will see, your current Directors and Secretary come from diverse backgrounds and have varied interests.  Some of the names you will recognize, others you will not.  Even if a name is unfamiliar to you, please know that this is a hands-on Board and each Director contributes a substantial amount of time and sometimes money to the Guild, time that would otherwise go towards our passion of model ship building.

William M. “Mike” Lonnecker. 
 
I am a retired engineer with a degree in Mechanical Engineering (BSME) from the University of Kansas. I worked in Texas and California as a Program Manager and Project Engineer in the Defense and Aerospace Industry until retiring in 2002. I currently reside in Poway (San Diego) California with Sandy, my wife of 44 years.
 
My interests have included woodworking, flying sailplanes, sailing, hot rodding and modeling all types of “vehicles”. I have been a student of design, modeling and building projects since completing my first plastic model car at age 6 or 7.  I now prefer to work on 1: 48 scale ship models of the late 18th century and am building my fourth ship model, The FLY, using David Antscherl’s Swan series of books.
 
I am a member of the San Diego Ship Modelers’ Guild and serve as Guild Master (President). I am also an active member of the Ship Modelers Association of Fullerton (SMA) and, of course, am a Director of the NRG where I am also chair of the mentor program and am currently mentoring one member. I enjoy sharing my modeling and machining skills with other modelers and regularly give demonstrations at club meetings and invite other members to my shop to work out difficult problems or aid new modelers with their projects.  My MSW screen name is Mike.
 

Toni Levine
 
Like so many of us, I started building models when I was a child.  The first model I remember building was a Monogram F6F-5 Hellcat which was originally given to my brother but it seemed that the “girl” had more aptitude for this than he did.  My first ship models were small Scientific carved hull models which I built during high school.  Model building was then shelved for several years while I completed my education (BS and MD from the University of Illinois) and residency training (Northwestern University).  My first plank-on-bulkhead model was Peregrine Galley by Mantua.  It is my only model built with a full coat of sails.  Over the years, my projects progressed from out-of-the-box kits to kit-bashing and finally scratch building.  My current project is Atalanta, a Swan-class sloop built in the fully framed style popularized by David Antscherl. 
 
I have been a physician since 1980 and specialize in otolaryngology (ear, nose and throat).  Like so many of us, my career prevents me from spending much time building ships.  I am a member of the Nautical Research and Model Society of Chicago and have been a member of the NRG since 1989 and a Director since 2013.  I live in the Chicago area with my husband.  My other interests include gardening, water gardening and home brewing.  My MSW screen name is tlevine.
 

Phil Roach
 
I have practiced law since 1988 and have had a private law practice in Bonita Springs since 1994. I graduated with a Bachelor of Arts Degree from the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill in 1985 and then attended Campbell University School of Law where I received my Juris Doctorate (J.D.) degree in 1988. Following graduation I moved from my hometown of Fayetteville, N.C. to become a full time resident of Southwest Florida. I belong to the Collier County Bar Association and the Florida Bar. I have been married to my wife Marina since 1988 and we have two children, Nicholas and Elizabeth.
 
I am an active member of the Rotary Club of Bonita Springs Noon and am currently serving on the Board of Directors. My prior service to the Club includes holding the position of President, Club Rotary Foundation Committee Chairman and I have served on the Board of Directors for various terms over my more than 20 year membership in the club.
I am also an active member of the Southwest Florida Ship Modelers’ Guild and I currently hold the position of President. I also served as liaison to the Nautical Research Guild for the Regional Conference previously held in Fort Myers, Florida.
 
I enjoy American history and its maritime heritage. My modeling interests are sailing ships and lately, that interest is gravitating backwards in time to vessels of the Revolutionary War period, vessels of the Colonial era, and the vessels of exploration of the North American Continent. Although my full time practice of law forbids me from modeling as much as I would like, I very much enjoy the research.  My MSW screen name is roach101761.
 

Hi Richard:
I noticed that you mentioned the possibility of "hull work" on you AL Dallas. I have this same unbuilt model packed away in storage, moving into my new house soon, and the hull aways looked too shallow to me. I have looked at some reference material over the years, including Howard Chapelle and others and I have always believed that the hull should be more "v" shaped or deeper for a revenue cutter of this time frame. I'll look into this further for you once I get settled.
 
Bob

I certainly will do!  Be sure to visit us at mvsmc.org - I post the pictures from each month's meetings.
 
I'm following this thread with interest, as I have a build that needs to be completed before the end of April, for a friend.  The vessel is the "Morning Star", a missionary packet ship built in Boston, and purchased by Sunday School children's pennies in 1868.  
 
I've included some pictures below.  The ever-helpful Alex Bellinger has completed Newsboy in a bottle, and seeing as that's the format for this ship, and she's rigged fairly closely, I'll be using Newsboy's lines and sail plan for mine (and leaning deeply into Alex's experience and support). I believe that scaling the Model Shipways plans down to 1/8:1 will provide me with a workable size.  
 
You'll be glad to know I'm using my grandfather's triangular scale ruler from his SJ Shipbuilding days for the project...

Thank you George, Ken and everyone for the likes.
 
I went back to that site and was able to find several original plans for different cutters, including some interior plans. Now I'm not saying that there's going to be missing sections so you can see the insides, but it's not out of the realm of possibility.

I also found these plans for some guns. Any of these that may be used will have to be scaled to fit.

Jan wrote:
 
has nothing to do with actual "real world" planking techniques. In the real world there are no planks wide enough to allow for the amount of spiling required in his method.
 
Of course, Chucks models look absolutely great, but in my eyes more than perfect, where at least my - beginners - strife is for real world authenticity, I mean, whats the point of making everything above the waterline look absolutely real up to the smallest detail, while the other half the ship (the under water section) is a fiction?
 
 
Jan...Not fiction at all.     
 
But I know folks say that steelers and drop planks are just fine and were used historically.   That is true....but the huge number of them you see on model ships and explained as the proper way to do it in many books and instruction manuals and practicums.   Its just a crutch.    So whatever the method.....a hull that looks like this is not something I find attractive or even historically accurate.  So I prefer to go for fewer and replicate the way its done on a similar contemporary model or shown in a contemporary draft from the same era.  Its just my preference.  
 
I have no intention on picking on the fellow who planked this hull below.   But its extreme steelers gone wild and if this is the way he (or you) wants to go its OK.  But I find many people using them and only because they find an example where one or two were used historically, and  it is just a short rationalization further to go ahead and use  5 or six  or even more at the bow and as many at the stern.  I disagree entirely.  Its just an easy fix and a crutch.    I just dont think its accurate or aesthetically pleasing.  This is in terms of what we were discussing earlier.  I will say this.   To plank the hull like this fellow did would probably take longer and be more frustrating than it would to just give lining out a hull a chance.  Cutting all of those weird shapes randomly etc.
 

 
One drop plank at the bow at most...and no stealers at the stern.   That is what I will always shoot for.    I think its more accurate and looks better.  Not that you wouldnt be able to scour the web for an example or two that is contrary to my opinion.   I just think its an excuse to continue to use them willy nilly and in huge numbers rather than learn how to spile and plan a hull's planking.   Again,  just my opinion.  And its Ok.   If folks are happy with that, fine,  But I just dont buy the argument that this image above is accurate in any way...even if you could find one example that might look a bit like it.
 
I would rather not get into a lengthy debate about it either because its one of those circular debates.  Its just a matter of choosing what you are willing to live with on your project...without trying to force the idea that it must be accurate because one image exists showing something maybe a little similar so...... Then they feel better about using them and wont bother trying to figure it out beyond that.   I have had countless discussions on the matter actually.  Its more complex than this because it depends on the country of origin,  the year,  the shape of the bow and hull etc.   There is no one size fits all, what kind of ship.........  An apple bowed whaler will certainly be planked differently than a sharper cutter or frigate built 75 years earlier and from different countries.   Dutch practice vs. English practice.  There is just too much to consider for a simple answer..
 
But I am so lucky because I have this below.   Its the planking expansion...just a portion of it so I dont violate any copyright rules...and its for the Cheerful.  So I am very comfortable saying its reasonably accurate and the actual ship was closely replicated.    Its not fiction at all.  The draft shows exactly 20 strakes below the wales.   One drop plank only,  no steelers.  I have no idea how they would have done this in actual practice but there are plenty modeling techniques that can achieve this result.   That is if its something you would have fun learning how to do.
 

Looking good keith!!!  
 
One of the guys taped my planking session at my club meeting.  Its freaky to see myself on a video like this.  No laughing.   But It shows how I taper and cut a plank to match my plan from lining out the hull.   I wish the camera was behind me but I hope its still worth posting.
 

 
Chuck

Part two was just some questions and answers.  But I was a little rushed.   Usually we dont have enough time to devote what is needed for the whole presentation.  But here it is anyway.
 
I am not sure if it adds anything more to part one.....but here it is.   Its hard to hear the questions being asked.   Most of the conversation in the middle revolves around someone asking me about a hull with many drop planks and or stealers as described in another authors practicum...just putting them in wherever and whenever.  Hopefully that will make the audio make more sense.
 

Hi Chuck
 
Since I have seen your moldings for over the past year,it was time for me to try some. Here's a photo of my moldings on the 1/47 Rouyal Caroline that I am building now.
 
Looking forward to building the Cheerful.
 
Keith 

I've got the port side ratlines done. I put in some photos to detail the process. They show ideas I've "relocated" from other builders on this fine site. "Relocated," by the way, is a term we use in education to mean purloined.
 
The first shot shows the thin line I used for the ratlines. The kinked strand in the bottom of the photo is how the line came off the spool. The straight line above it is after heating it by running it around my bending iron for a few seconds. It straightened it right out. Be careful of using too much heat, though, if your line is nylon--it can partially melt and stiffen up. This makes it hard to tie knots.
 
The second shot is of the jig I made to make sure I spaced the ratlines out evenly. I succeeded for about a third of the way up the shrouds and then got curious to see how it looked without the jig, pulled it off, and neglected to put it back on to finish the job. So I've got rather free-form ratlines on the port side.
 
I read up on a thread about whether or not the ratlines were tarred. It was a very interesting read, but I learned that the answer isn't a clear-cut yes or no. Some said tarred, some said not, some said partially, etc. So, I "tarred" the outer knots with black paint where the ratlines tie into the outer shrouds. I pity all of you who build big, many-masted ships. Those rats are hard to get even!
 
Finally, I've been thinking about a stand for the Shenandoah. I wanted something very simple. The last photos are of what I came up with. They are still bare wood. I'm going to peg them to a larger flat display base later. They might be a little bulky and might look better a bit thinner. I'll live with them a few days and make that call later.
 
Thanks for reading!
 
Steve

I was asked to take a photo from the bow "right-side-up", so folks can see the run of the planks there.   I hope this will do the trick.  Let me know if there is any other questions.
 
Chuck
 

 

First Construction Photos
 

The laser-cut parts popped out of the sheet easily and the 3-piece keel when right together.
 

Here's the keel with all the bulkheads in position. But here's also where I found a problem with the kit. One of the 6 pieces of 1/4 inch ply has a warp built in, and 5 bulkheads are seriously warped. I soaked them in hot water and clamped them to flat boards. I hope they straighten out before I glue them to the keel. Once the planking is attached they should be fine.

Lead the way Maury...
 
Bob

More work on the spine and bulkheads.  I cut the sides of the slots in my table saw sled.  Careful not to cut past about 1/2" from the end of the slot so the back side of the cut does not go past the end of the slot.  All the slots were cleaned up on the scroll saw then sanding sticks.  I have some 120 grit paper glued to a 1/4" square stick so the bottom of the slot is square with the sides once sanded.
I rough cut the outside edges of the bulkheads and started on the spine, then decided to leave the bottom of the spine blanks in place 'til I lined up and joined the two pieces.  So far the most challenging was the dovetail joint holding the two pieces of the spine together.  The joint is tight and the bottom line is straight.  I'll finish up rough cutting the spine and bulkheads and then start sanding the edges on the spindle sander.  Fairing is going to be harder than Chuck experienced since his bulkheads were all perfect from the laser cutting.
Maury

Hi all,
 
it's been a while, but the festive season kept my quite busy and there was Little time to relax in the Workshop.
Just a quick update.
The inner gunportframes are all in, the two halfes have been joined together and I have loosely fitted the gundeck base.
Next step is to install the final gunportframes.
best
Tom

Yes Geoff, you did see one kit under construction and two on the shelf. They were all bought AT THE SAME TIME from Miniature Steam in Melbourne, Australia. Miniature Steam were great to deal with. I have no quarrel with them or the quality or price of the kits other than maybe the quality of the walnut second planking which is very splintery and poorly cut, in my opinion - and incidentally in the opinion of other contributors to this forum. My beef is the after sales service or lack of it from the company - or John Wright in particular. If I had not been very persistent, I don't think I would have received the parts that were missing from the kit. I'm not going to say any more about it as I think I and many others have expressed feelings of frustration rather forcefully already. Mr Wright, from what I read in your post, does not seem perturbed. Good luck to him, I will NOT be dealing with Caldercraft/ JoTika again. There are plenty of other quality manufacturers out there to choose from!