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  1. What is the price of this kit from Trident? Boris wants to know. Thanks Keith and Boris
  2. Ahoy Mates There's also a white metal Ferrari engine kit that goes with the Arno. I do not know if they still make it-from another company other than Amati. I bought one with this kit. The cost of the engine kit was $975.00. Have had mine for over ten years now just sitting on a shelf waiting for me to build it. Great subject to build. Happy New Year to all. Keith and Boris
  3. Ahoy Chuck and All As for dents,you can use the steaming out of them. Just dab a little water on the dent,then use the travel iron to raise the dent up. Repeat it as needed. You can also just let the water do its work without heat to raise the dent too. You can use this to your advantage too,compress the area on the wood that will fit into a slot or under something. Compress it so it fits in easy. Then just before you insert it in.wet it, assemble it and wait for the wood to expand back -and you have a tight joint. Barrel and bucket coopers use this for sealing the bottoms and sides of the staves by compressing a line in the wood,plaining it down until the compressed groove is level. Then when the wood gets wet,that compressed line expands and acts like a compressed gasket. Keith and Boris
  4. Hi Jim Where is it in the postings? What is the time frame for more sets-please let me know. Thanks Keith
  5. Ahoy Chuck Any idea when you will have sets again for sale? I am sure others are waiting too. Thanks Keith
  6. Ahoy Mates Thanks Jason for all the wood I have bought from you,and the way my models look using your wood. Here's the new Supervisor in my shipyard. His name is Boris,he's a Russian Blue about a year old. with about the same personality of the late Pickels as you can see.. The sale sure went fast-about 8 minutes. Glade I was sitting watching the screen for hours waiting for the site to open. Would have bought more but PayPal held me up from aying for about 30 seconds,3 bundles were taken out of my order before it was paid.I still spent over $700. Well worth it Jason. Thanks Keith and Boris
  7. Ahoy Jason Thanks for the great deal on the thickness sander and all the wood. It sure went fast. Thanks for all the fun that I and Pickels have had using your wood. Pickels is gone now but later today I am going to look at a 1 year old Russian Blue boy. Maybe I'll have a new supervisor by the time all my wood and sander gets here. Have fun with your family, and no problems with your demanding job. Back to using your wood that's here in stock now. My latest completed ship the 1492 Nina,and the last one Pickels supervised. Great wood makes good models. Thanks Keith Happy Customer since you started.
  8. Hello Dan Welcome to MSW You had problems with Rustoleum? Did you follow the instructions on the can? Did you listen to your fellow builders in Portland? LOL Hi Dan,just kidding my friend. For those reading I am in the build group with Dan. You have lots of great photos coming up later from Dan's build of this kit.
  9. Ahoy Chris PLEASE make figures in 1/48 scale also!!!! There's a lot of Cheerful's and other 1/48 ships without a Captain to add scale to our builds. I wish you were making 1/48 sized kits too,I would buy them!!! Thanks Keith
  10. Ahoy Mates I am working on my Amati Nina 1/65 and need to find out what hitch or knot to use for the lashing lines of the deadeyes for the shrouds on this 1492 ship? It has rails on the bulwarks with some cleats,but the lines for the deadeyes are tied around the rails which are mostly without an open end close to use them like a cleat. I have not been able to find anything about hitching lines to a rail. Here's photos of my Nina with the lashing lines going down from the upper deadeye to thru the deck eye bolt for the lower deadeye,and then up and over the side with tape holding the ends. You can see the rails that have space behind them inbetween the frames. I am sure Pickels would have know,but he's busy building in Heaven now. Next month I am going to get a new supervisor in the Shipyard to train in his place. Thanks Keith
  11. Ahoy Chuck Just wanted to know if you have any progress on your Cross Section Kit? I see you are hard at work due to low stock levels due to Hoarders. I am just sitting enjoying the Awards that your Cheerful came back with from the Seattle Show last weekend. We all thank you for your expanding line of top notch products. I love the resin cannon barrels. Just received some .025 wide black chain from L'Arsenal from France that I will use on my gun carriages for the trunion clamp pins. Hope that this year will be when you release your Cross Section kit. Thanks again Chuck. Keith from Troutdale,Oregon
  12. Ahoy George What I did was to put the eyebolt thru the bulwark ( the eyebolt surfaces were roughed up with a file ,then used CA to hold it into the drilled hole in the bulwark,add the washer with a small amount of CA to hold it to the hull. By the way I first panted the edges of the washer black BEFORE gluing it to the hull side. Then I used a snipper to cut off the excess length leaving about 1/32 " above the washer. Then I used the snippers and again cut the end 90 deg. to the first cut,which would leave it looking like it was peened over. Try it out on scratch amterial until you get what you want. Like was stated above,most detail can not be seen without mag. glass. You could also glue and eyebolt that doesn't go out thru the hole on the outside of the hull,then make up a washer with a short peened end,and glue the stub end of the bolt washer into the hole. With this you could use plastic washer and rod. Keith
  13. Great looking planking. I look forward to getting my kit soon. Now back to working to complete my Nina build. Taking your time and getting it right is a long lasting reward when you look at it years later. Keith
  14. Ahoy Mates As an old tool and diemaker of over 45 years and model maker for over 60, I have used both and for the diamond files I love them on wood and steel for fast cutting and also use steel files. They both have their places. I like the open cutting of the diamond's,they are like sandpaper,but for shapes and controled filing the steel ones are the best. Just make sure they are not stacked on each other or just tossed into a drawer. Check out a jewler's supplier for files,they will have quality ones which cost more but will last you forever. The ones you get at a discount place mostly are not worth the price.

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