Loracs
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Everything posted by Loracs
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Hello @Fishooks, I'm sorry for the unclear statement... my bad. The deck comes in two parts (cut in the middle) for easier installation. It is a very tight fit otherwise, and you may break the bulkheads. Since I was planking the deck outside the ship, i set up each deck side-by-side and carried on with planking. The very middle plank, however, at the junction of the decks was glued to ONLY one deck part but not the other. This way they can be kept separate. Once installed on the ship, everything is seamless. cheers,
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very nice... a joy to watch you work!
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second planking: so much fun the first time... let do it a second time. Unlike the first planking you have no bulkheads to clamp. I found that using 120mm length planks so much easier to handle and glue. You just need to get the wale plank right... then it is use as guide for planking the whole. Just my 2-cents as a beginner... you may have alternate approach yourself. I can't wait to see the results, fellow Revenge"R". Have Fun!
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hello knightyo, thanks for the comment. you are right. I was thinking about carving the door frames... but I fail badly at it. I just don't have the right tool for it. Maybe I should have painted the door only, keeping the door frame brass. I'm just running out of idea, so I painted red. Likely not the best? Maybe another color that does not stand out so much? Red look like a good idea at first.... but now i just don't know! hehe! Maybe off-white? Let me know what you guys think.
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Minimalist Decoration theme: From personal preference, I like minimalist design when it comes to painting model ships. I prefer woods of various types. The historic "The Revenge" is heavy in paint... just too much for me. There is nothing wrong with it (or the kit supplied materials) , it's just a matter of taste. I will thus be deviating from the historical layout... but I'm fine with it, which may not be the preference for some. Walnut strips are of great quality, source from Modeler's Sawmill is a custom wood milling shop located in New Jersey, that caters to hobbyists and model shipbuilders (modelerssawmill.com). I will be using wood inlays when possible. Examples are shown below. In addition, I have been planking the vertical panels with walnut strips for a better finish/look. To add some 3D texture, I sanded the upper side of the strips for better definition when beside each other. I hope I'm not offending anyone because of the lack of historic accuracy. Enjoys...
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First deck cannons: I aged the cannons slightly with "brass black" to retain the brownish color. Similarly, I treated the carriages with walnut wood stain to retain the wood grain. This gave it a more but aged wood look. The last picture was before treatment. Subtle difference but still better in person.
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Hull completed. I must say that I'm pretty happy to have this step completed and move on to other parts. While I was around, I decided to get this level gunport(s) completed. Top off with matte poly. Two more coats to go but that's the easy, while satisfying, part. It gives a sense of what the wood will look like once finished.
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Chuck, I'm so happy that you are releasing a POF version. It is a great design, something to be very proud. I consider myself a beginner and still struggling at time with the basic. The speedwell is likely outside of my skillset... for now. However, I will greatly enjoy watching the numerous logs here. In fact, I'm looking forward to it.
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Planking Bow
Loracs replied to Loracs's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
thank you all, appreciate your help very much. Chuck tutorials was indeed very informative. I applied the technique to my current build. Spiling was indeed the key to a clean flow of the planks at the bow. thanks again. -
Thank you... I was unaware of the group. I will look it up.
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GrandpaPhil... should I send you my shipping address? I could use those fantastic carvings on my Revenge. Very nice.
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@Knocklouder, a thousand thanks. Despite some repetition... it is still fun!
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Second Planking done... finally. Looking forward to doing something else. Thanks to the many tutorials and logs from all of you, I'm happy with the final results. Still need to touch sanding but it is ready for the first coat of matte poly. Summary: Spiling planks was painfull at time (see below pulling my hair <joking>)... but planks at the bow lay flat. The wood has long grains and can break easily. Patience is a must. Working with 120mm plank-segments turned out to be a blessing. Far easier to glue into place without making a mess. You just need to get the first plank right. First, double planking under my belt.
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I pulled those figurines from a stash in the garage. They were painted 35-40 years ago. I could not resist adding a touch of fantasy to the model.
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- Amati
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Chuck, all your blocks are indeed top notch... we are all lucky that you are taking time and effort for making them available to all of us. They just bring rigging up, way up in quality. On a side note, anyone successfully stain the boxwood blocks and still retain the wood quality? Just asking away...
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Second Planking, slow progress. Curving each plank against the grains seen to take forever!! Almost midway to the hull. Plank length is 120mm or 25 feet at this scale.
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Good evening, a quick question... are you planning to release pearwood blocks later on? just checking up, nothing urgent.
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Greetings all, A small question about planking at the bow. Let assume that the ship is divided into 4 sections for planking. In logs, I often see peoples tapering more aggressively at the 2 middle sections, but only lightly at the upper and the lowest section. Is it the right approach? Or do you taper uniformly in all sections (at the bow). Any advantage of one approach versus the other? Thanks a lot for your help. I'm still learning...
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Second Planking: A plan is in place... now, I just need to follow it. Took a while. I'm still learning this, so I keep questioning myself and the measurements.
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Spilling planks. I learned the hard way that it is better to do before planking than fixing after. For me, I'm more comfortable using a guide for the shape I want to obtain, wet the planks and use a hairdryer for shaping. I got mixed results using a travel iron, mostly because I have difficulties holding in place while ironing. It keeps springing up in the curved area. We each develop small tricks to get things done... Note: Clamps can leave a mark on the planks... use a wood strip on top of the planks (under the clamp) to hold things together now.
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Hull and Deck treenails
Loracs replied to Loracs's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Morning all, I truly appreciate your comments everyones. As a beginner builder, I have so much to learn. This Forum and peoples are such a wealth of knowledge. I think that I will follow the consensus and focus on a clean planking without trunnels. The effort of having drilling and using bamboo of appropriate size is just daunting... for a very subtle look. I will consider the blacklines for POF beans in the next model 😉 -
Question about treenails. Looking ahead... I have fishing line at 0.23, 0.32 and 0.5mm, color black. Is it appropriate color for hull and Deck treenails or is it too dark? what size best (1/64 scale)?
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Deleted... asking the question is the appropriate forum channel.
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Small wedges at the stern are now filled. I reviewed the tutorials on planking and noted the steps for improvement. I'm starting to layout the hull completely anew for the second planking. Note that the tapes are set at intervals rather than following the bulkheads. It will accomplish the same goal, getting measurements for each sector/band. Temporary battens to follow. However, I will need a week or two break to give my back a rest... but will be back...!
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