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Herby63

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Everything posted by Herby63

  1. Herby63
    Ladder rungs, casemate lids and anchors attached to the sides. Till next update, enjoy modelling.
  2. Herby63
    The Pontos handholds were glued in with PVA-glue nd the Pontos shutters for the 4 rounded casemates were bent, soldered and glued with SloZap. Till next update, enjoy modelling.
  3. Herby63
    I allmost forgot to put Pontos part 364 to the front of part B8. The handholds were removed from the casemate sides , Pontos templates applied, and 0,4 mm holes drilled usong the Tamiya electric handy drill. Till next update, enjoy modelling.
  4. Herby63
    So here come the 2 Pontos reels for the middle deck. I then collected and cleaned up the midship bulckheads for step 16. and finished the day by preparing the casemate sides by filling the recesses for the hinges of the shutters wirt Vallejo putty, leaving them to dry overnight. Till next update, enjoy modelling.
  5. Herby63
    Step 15: deckfurniture of the middle deck. All Merit parts are replaced by Pontos Photo-etch, bent and soldered together. Only the reels remain to be assembled Till next update, enjoy modelling.
  6. Herby63
    I assembled the ventilation shafts from step 14 and jumped to steps 24/25 to finish theremaining ventilation shafts. Those are mounted on the fore funnel base. To finish off step 24 I cleaned the cutters, added the rudders and glued the supports on the cover of the largest cutter. I also replaced part G39 by the Pontos equivalent and glued it together with part G44 on the funnel base, but forgot to take a picture. No doubt it will be seen in future updates. Till next update, enjoy modelling.
  7. Herby63
    Merit Step 13: The bottom parts of the ventilationshafts have been glued together with Tamiya Extra Thin cement. I cleaned up the seams of these parts, scraping with an X-Acto knife, using needle files and medium and fine sandingsticks. According to my humble opinion, a maximum of 10 of the 14 ventilation shafts have "trumpet like" openings. The other four have a ring with crossed half round ribs. According to contemporary pictures that have been coloured, the "trumpet like" tops have red louvres. Although those "trumpet like" tops are present in the Merit kit, they are nowhere mentioned in the manual, and the gratings that are supposed to represent louvres have diagonal holes and bands. In the Pontosset there are round gratings with exactly the right diameter. But these are for the searchlights. However, this gave me an idee. Previously I built the Trumpeter 1/200 Bismarck, with a lot of functions. In this kit there are 8 gratings for 7 searchlights. Those happen to have the same diameter. And I also have a second Bislmarck kit, that I intend to upgrade with a Pontos detailing set to make a very detailed display model. Therefore I have an extra grating. The Pontosset for the Bismarck also contains 8 gratings but those are fully closed. In case I want to install LED's in the searchlights, as I did in the first model, those gratings are not usable, and thus available for Mikasa, giving a perfect illusion of clased louvres. The half round ribs have been glued woth a dash of Pink Zap, and attached to the round tops with PVA-glue. Excess glue is easily removed with a damp brush. Till next update, enjoy modelling.
  8. Herby63
    I assembled and soldered all Pontos parts to replace the plastic parts of step 11. Till next update, enjoy modelling.
  9. Herby63
    Steps 11 and 12, all brass parts glued on ant the slots for the boat supports filled with Vallejo Plastic Putty. Ready for paint. Till next update, enjoy modelling.
  10. Herby63
    Now that a considerable number of parts have been detached and collecte into numbered boxes, it's time to start assembly. Merit step 11: cleaned up the plastic parts with file and fine sanding stick. Part B9: drilled out the 6 holes in the sides and chamfered from the underside. I removed the centerpart drilling holes, one next to the other and straightened the edges is with a knife I bent and soldered the Postos boat supports and glued them on part B9 with SloZap. Till next update, enjoy modelling.
  11. Herby63
    Next I collected the Merit parts and Pontos wooden parts for steps 30 to 35 (front and rear bridge), 40 (main guns) an 43 and 44 (funnels). Till next update, enjoy modelling.
  12. Herby63
    I collected the pieces for Merit-steps 11,12,13, 14 and 16 (middle deck furniture), and steps 26 to 29 (details on fore- and aft deck, 46 to 51 and 63 to 66 (mainly small boats), in labeled boxes. Till next update, enjoy modelling.
  13. Herby63
    I used some epoxyfiller on the decks to level out any unevenness caused by removing deckdetails and to fill holes for plastic parts that will be replaced by photo-etch. When cured, I sanded the decks and used some Vallejo Plastic Putty on the remaining small indentations. After sanding, these decks are ready for the painting department. But in order to make the most of setting this up, I am first going to prepare some small parts. Till next update, enjoy modelling.
  14. Herby63
    I cut the main wooden deck parts loose with a fresh X-acto knife. Due to the toughness of the backing, multiple passes are necesary. Untill the next update, enjoy modelling.
  15. Herby63
    Hi Jeff, those are drytransfers. How they are applied, you can see in my Mikasa build log. The advantage is that there is no risk of silver bleed around the decal. I made a first attempt to attach the torpedonets before painting the hull, as the bracings attach to it. I gave up for now, so the problems you encountered are very recognisable to me and I admire the tricks you applied to solve these problems. I shall certainly revisit this part when my build is nearing completion. 😀 I allready have some ideas for the showcase and will reveal them shortly, as installing linghting requires provisions to be made in the base. Kind regards, Herby
  16. Herby63
    Breakwaters on fore and aft barbettes: I filled the slots with putty as I would like the breakwaters to sit a little bit higher than Merit provides for. Then I made a jig for positioning the plastic breakwater at an even distance from the deck. I used a "Kolderstok" plankbender to bend a strip of wood of the apropriate with. I held the strip in place with a lace. I removed the plastic struts, glued the breakwaters in place, and placed the Pontos struts with SloZap. Finaly, I scraped off the outer ring around the barbettes to allow the Pontos wooden deck to lay flush on the plastic deck. Till next time, wishing everyone lots of modeling fun.
  17. Herby63
    I copied the details to be removed from the main deck from the Pontos instructions and removed them with a small chisel in an X-Acto handle and a small jewelers hammer. This went very well and asks for very little aftertreatment with a medium sandingstick. Till next time, enjoy modeling,
  18. Herby63
    I filled the portholes from the inside with Mikro Kristal Klear. The full hull thickness allows for the drop to partialy fill up the hole, without protruding or touching the vertical bars present at some potholes. When drying, it becomes completely transparent. Then I prepared 3 carbonfibre tubes to connect the holes for the anchorchaines at the bow with the holes in the deck. This is to avoid lightblead as I intend to light up the model with some LED's. I enlarged the holes in the deck slightly to allow for the 5 mm tubes to pass through. Then I cut 3 pieces of tube, 14 mm long. Then I beveled?? the tubes at the underside to fit to the hull, and glued them in the deckopenings with some SloZap. I reinforced the joints at the underside of the deck. And finaly, I sanded the upper parts of these tubes flush with the deck. That's all for now folks, See you next time.
  19. Herby63
    After priming and painting the 6" and 3" guns in the same color as the upper part of the hull, I installed them in the apropriate places. Then I applied the Pontos dry-transfers, rubbing them on with the blunt eye of a large needle. The bottom of the lowest roman digit is placed at 1,53 mm (times 200 = 306 cm or 10 feet) from the bottom of the keel when layed flat on the table. I put a little piece of depthmarks at the back too, just above the struts for the propeller axle. I touched the torpedotubes wits some Vallejo Model Wash 76.518 Black, and sealed all with a coat of Vallejo Matt Varnish for protection of the dry-transfers and an even shine on the entire hull. Till next update.
  20. Herby63
    The Admirals balcony: I first painted the gratings and handrail with Vallejo 71.077 Wood, which I thought corresponded best to a recent picture of the ship. As it turned ou to be a little light, I covered these parts with Vallejo 71.034 Sand Brown. Now I found it too dark. So I applied a third coat of Wood with a few drops of Sand Brown and a few drops of water to improve the flow of the paint. Now I like it 🥰 Then I put a spot of gold paint on the crossings of the bars, inside and out, and, inspired by JEFF59's build log, finished it of with tiny golden balls on the handrail. Kind regards,
  21. Herby63
    I masked off the waterline with 1 mm striping, then a wider tape and covered the whole bottom with paper and masking tape, to avoid overspray. On to the spraybooth in the garage. My prefered collor for this is Anthracite, but only Revell has it colled this way, but my experience with it on Bismarck was not that positive. This time I went for Vallejo Model Color 70.862 "Black Grey". Removing the maskingtape did some minor damage, so I did some touch-ups. I am quite pleased with the over-all result. Kind regards,
  22. Herby63
    I did some masking of already painted surfaces, and painted the hole outside with a redbrown primer. Keep it safe 😁
  23. Herby63
    After positioning the parts, I decided not to install the deployed torpedonet at port side as it will be too fragile for future handeling. As I shall try to light up the model, I enlarged the holes in the bottom of the hull to be able to pass 2 hollow tubes woth M10 thread ( parts for lamp fittings). This way the wires can be led from the base to the inside of the model without being seen. Wishing everyone lotss of modeling fun.
  24. Herby63
    Very nice and inspiring update.
  25. Herby63
    Thank you for reacting Goodshipvenus, Not only the photo etch will be painted, but also the plastic. In previous posts I must have mentioned priming the photo etch with VMS Metal Prep 4K, otherwise I must have forgotten to do so. 😀 Paintjob comming up soon, I promise.

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