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Everything posted by Herby63
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Next step was to bend and solder the 16 eyebolts (part 53) and glue them and the ring (52) with a little SloZAP in the holes in the hull. The booms for the anti-torpedo-net will be hooked in them. Wishing everyone lots of modellingfun.
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Next I drilled 2 4mm holes in the bottom of the hul and attached it to a temporary bottomplate in order to diminuish the risk of damaging the added detail when handeling the ship. Wishing everyone lots of modellingfun.
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Next I bent and glued on the shutters for the 2 outer casemates. (both sides) Wishing everyone lots of modellingfun.
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Next I bent and glued on the shutters for the 3 central casemates. Wishing everyone lots of modellingfun.
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Next I bent and glued on the shutters for the front and stern casemates with SloZAP and the hand holds wit a dash of PVA-glue. Wishing everyone lots of modellingfun.
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I testfitted the 6" and 3" guns in the casemates of the hull. I had to enlarge the pivoting holes in the 6" guns slightly to alowe the pins to go in smoothly, as I am a bit reluctant to hammer them in when the hull is laden with PE. The Pontos 3" guns don't fit under the roofs of the casemates, as the bottom plates I installed dont alowe for sliding them in sideways, so I removed the roofs, planning to top the area later with a piece of styrene. Wishing everyone lots of modellingfun.
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Some more hull details added, the first with diluted PVA-glue, the doors themselves witg a touch of SloZAP. Wishing everyone lots of modellingfun.
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Next are the 47 mm guns: First I soldered the pedestalls (Brass 07B and Brass 08B) to the botom plates (781), and bent the platforms (149) into shape Then I soldered the pre-bent brackets (782) to the pedestalls and the barrels (Brass 07A and Brass 08A) to the pre-bent breeches (783). Finaly I soldered the guns to the pedestall brackets and glued the guns with the small pedestalls to the platforms. Lots of Modelling fun
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Mass production of the 3" guns, 1 down 15 to go. Here are some pictures of the different steps. Pedestalls soldered to the bottom plate and brass parts bent to form boxes Brass parts soldered to the pedestall Preparations for installing the recoilcylinders Brass plates bent over the barrels and installed onto the bracket (all soldered), and finaly glued the little box to the side of the barrel with a little CA-glue. Happy modelling,
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Time to have a go at a first 3" gun A The composing elements on the left - The pieces, bent where nece"ssary And the result of 3 hours of modellingfun ! Next picture shows the "briliant" Pontosinstructions, and the endresult in the black oval. Happy modelling,
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I made to fit a styrene plate and glued it under the kasemates openings at stern and stem in order to prevent these guns from falling in the hull. A 2 mm-hole in the styrene should help lodgeing the base of the guns. happy modelling,
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Hi Jölle, I'll try to make the build log as interesting as the model
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Next is collecting all the brass parts to make the 3" huns and the 47 mm guns, which replace the Merit parts entirely. Lots of modellingfun
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The 6" guns in Merit step 3 are entirely replaced by Pontos brass. They are soldered together, no glue used at all. Happy modelling,
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Before putting on lots of photo-etch around the casemates, I want to be sure the guns and the hatches around them will fit. So I started the construction of the guns. I started collecting, preparing an assembling the parts for step 2: the 6" guns. The different stages of completion, seen from left to right. The completed guns. Happy modelling,
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I glued on more than a hundred "ordinary" pontos portholes using PVA-glue. Then I indicated on the Merit-instructions where Pontos brass replaces partially or entirely the original kitparts, and on the Pontos-instructions in which step of the Merit-instructions they are needed. Happy modelling,
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I put the propellershaft and their struts together. Next I adapted them to receive the Pontos propellers and mounted them on the hull. I also worked a bit on a propellerblade to see if I could ameliorate it. Both shafts adapted and mounted on the hull with Tamiya extra thin cemlent. Happy modelling,
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In order not to damage the portholes I first placed the bilgekeels, taping them down and gluing with extra thin cement. After removing the tape I glued the remaining places. Happy modelling,
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I put on the porthole etch with the bars ar the stem, before and under the achorplates, and at the back, o,ly the last 3 portholes on the bottom row. I aplied slightly dekuted PVA-glue around the hole in the hull with a toothpick, then positioned the photo etch over the hole and with a pointy tool I adjusted the position of it. Any excess glue was removed with a damp brush, but I hardly ever had to do so. Wishing everyone lots of modellingfun,
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Hi Yves, I will certainly paint the entire ship, as it is hard to keep the shine over the years. I am tempted by the early colorsceme of black and white, in order not to fill my livingroom entirely with grey ships.
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Thanks Chris, I have seen lots of names pass by. As long as we know what we are talking about ... For cutting the photo-etch, I use an old CD and a half round x-acto-knife. So, next I covered the resting places for the anchors with brass. and gave them a shine with a fiberglass pen. Kind regards,
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Thank you, Yves, although I must admit this will probably be the only adaptation I shall make to this kit, as it is rather obvious when looking at pictures of the hull. Next I used the Pontos-templates to drill the 0,4 mm holes for the footirons (handholds?) Wishing everyone lots of shipmodellingfun,
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An other modeler noticed that the most forward porthole, above the anchorcluise, was too big, but somebody else noticed that it wasn't even in the right place and that here was no porthole under the anchorcluise. So I filled them up and in acordance to the present-day ship, I drilled 3 aditional portholes on the port side and 1 on the starbord side. Kind regards,
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Then I reinforced the seam on the inside with epoxy putty and used the same to fill the minute differences on the bottom of the hull, which i wetsanded with a medium sandingstick and finished with 600-grit sandpaper. Kind regards, Herby
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